Early  Western  Travels 
1748-1846 


Volume  XXX 


Early  Western  Travels 

1748-1846 

A  Scries  of  Annotated  Reprints  of  some  of  the  best 
and  rarest  contemporary  volumes  of  travel,  de- 
scriptive of  the  Aborigines  and  Social  and 
Economic  Conditions  in  the  Middle 
and  Far  West,  during  the  Period 
of  Early  American  Settlement 

Edited  with  Notes,  Introductions,  Index,  etc.,  by 

Reuben  Gold  Thwaites,  LL.D. 

Editor  of  "The  Jesuit  Relations  and  Allied  Documents,"   "Original 

Journals  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition,"  "Hennepin'i 

New  Discovery,"  etc. 

Volume    XXX 

Palmer's  Journal  of  Travels  over  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
1845-1846 


Cleveland,  Ohio 

The  Arthur  H.  Clark  Company 
1906 


COPYRIGHT  1906,  BY 
THE  ARTHUR  H.  CLARK  COMPANY 


ALL  RIGHTS  RESERVED 


Kite  lafttefot  $rtM 

*.   R.  DONNELLEY  *  SONS  COMPANY 
CHICAGO 


Bancroft  Librarv 


CONTENTS  OF  VOLUME  XXX 

PREFACE.    The  Editor 9 

JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVER  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  TO  THE 
MOUTH  OF  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER;  MADE  DURING  THE 
YEARS  1845  AND  1846:  containing  minute  descriptions  of 
the  Valleys  of  the  Willamette,  Umpqua,  and  Clamet;  a 
general  description  of  Oregon  Territory;  its  inhabitants, 
climate,  soil,  productions,  etc.,  etc.;  a  list  of  Necessary 
Outfits  for  Emigrants;  and  a  Table  of  Distances  from 
Camp  to  Camp  on  the  Route.  Also;  A  Letter  from  the 
Rev.  H.  H.  Spalding,  resident  Missionary,  for  the  last  ten 
years,  among  the  Nez  Perce*  Tribe  of  Indians,  on  theKoos- 
koos-kee  River;  The  Organic  Laws  of  Oregon  Territory; 
Tables  of  about  300  words  of  the  Chinook  Jargon,  and 
about  200  Words  of  the  Nez  Perce"  Language ;  a  Descrip- 
tion of  Mount  Hood;  Incidents  of  Travel,  &c.,  &c. 
Joel  Palmer. 

Copyright  Notice 24 

Author's  Dedication  .         .         .         .         .         .          25 

Publishers'  Advertisement  .         .         .         .         .          27 

Text:  Journal,  April  16,  1845- July  23>  ^46  .         .          29 
Necessary    Outfits    for    Emigrants    traveling    to 

Oregon       . 257 

Words  used  in  the  Chinook  Jargon      .         .         .        264 
Words  used  in  the  Nez  Perce*  Language       .         .        271 
Table  of  Distances  from  Independence,  Missouri; 
and  St.  Joseph,  to  Oregon  City,  in  Oregon 
Territory    .         ...         .         .         .        277 

Appendix: 

Letter  of    the  Rev.  H.  H.  Spalding  to  Joel 

Palmer,  Oregon  Territory,  April  7,  1846         283 
Organic  Laws  of  Oregon  (with  amendments).        299 


ILLUSTRATION  TO  VOLUME  XXX 

FACSIMILE  OF  TITLE-PAGE,  PALMER'S  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  .      23 


PREFACE  TO  VOLUME  XXX 

In  the  wake  of  the  pathfinders,  fur-traders,  Indian 
scouts,  missionaries,  scientific  visitors,  and  foreign  adven- 
turers came  the  ultimate  figure  among  early  Western 
travellers,  the  American  pioneer  settler,  the  fore-runner 
of  the  forces  of  occupation  and  civilization.  This  con- 
cluding volume  in  our  series  is,  therefore,  fitly  devoted 
to  the  record  of  an  actual  home- seeker,  and  founder 
of  new  Western  communities. 

The  significant  feature  of  American  history  has  been 
the  transplanting  of  bodies  of  colonists  from  one  frontier 
to  a  newer  frontier.  In  respect  to  the  Oregon  country, 
our  interest  therein  is  enhanced  not  only  by  the  great 
distance  and  the  abundant  perils  of  the  way,  but  also 
by  the  political  result  in  securing  the  territory  to  the 
United  States,  and  the  growth  of  a  prosperous  common- 
wealth in  the  Far  Northwest  corner  of  our  broad  domain. 
In  several  previous  volumes  of  our  series  we  have  wit- 
nessed the  beginnings  of  Oregon  civilization.  Two  of 
our  travellers,  Franchere  and  Ross,  have  graphically 
detailed  the  Astoria  episode,  giving  us,  not  without 
some  literary  skill,  the  skeleton  of  facts  which  Irving's 
masterful  pen  clothed  with  living  flesh  and  healthful 
color;  in  Townsend's  pages  we  found  an  enduring 
picture  of  the  regime  of  the  all-powerful  Hudson's  Bay 
Company;  De  Smet,  with  faithful,  indeed  loving,  touches 
has  portrayed  the  vanishing  aborigines,  whose  sad  story 
has  yet  fully  to  be  told  —  eventually,  when  the  last 


I  o  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

vestige  of  their  race  has  gone,  we  shall  come  to  recog- 
nize the  tale  as  the  sorriest  chapter  in  our  annals;  Farn- 
ham  shrewdly  narrates  the  sharp  transition  to  American 
occupancy;  but  Palmer  tells  us  of  the  triumphant  prog- 
ress of  the  conquering  pioneer,  and  in  his  pages  the 
destiny  of  Oregon  as  an  American  state  is  clearly  fore- 
shadowed. 

"Fifty-four  forty,  or  fight,"  the  belligerent  slogan 
with  regard  to  Oregon,  adopted  in  the  presidential 
campaign  of  1844,  was  after  all  not  so  much  a  notice 
to  the  British  government  that  the  United  States  con- 
sidered the  Oregon  country  her  own,  beyond  recall, 
as  an  appeal  to  the  pioneers  of  the  West  to  secure 
this  vast  inheritance  by  actual  occupation.  As  such 
it  proved  a  trumpet  call  to  thousands  of  vigorous 
American  farmers,  most  of  them  already  possessed 
of  comfortable  homes  in  the  growing  communities  of 
the  Middle  West. 

"I  have  an  uncle,"  declared  one  of  the  pioneers  to 
Dr.  John  McLoughlin,  Hudson's  Bay  factor  on  the 
Pacific  coast,  "who  is  rich  enough  to  buy  out  your 
company  and  all  this  territory." 

"Indeed!"  replied  the  doctor,  courteously,  "who 
is  he?" 

"Uncle  Sam,"  gayly  responded  the  emigrant,  with 
huge  enjoyment  in  his  well-worn  witticism.  It  was  at 
the  supposed  behest  of  this  same  "Uncle  Sam"  that 
farms  were  sold,  wagons  and  oxen  purchased,  outfits 
prepared,  and  long  caravans  of  permanent  settlers 
slowly  and  painfully  crossed  the  vast  plains  and  rugged 
mountains  lying  between  the  comfortable  settlements 
of  the  "Old  Northwest"— the  "Middle  West"  of  our 


1845-1846]  Preface  1 1 

day  —  and  the  new  land  of  promise  in  the  Far  North- 
west of  the  Pacific  Slope. 

The  emigration  of  1845  exceeded  all  that  had  gone 
before.  That  of  1843,  eignt  hundred  strong,  had 
startled  the  Indians,  and  surprised  the  staid  officials 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  That  of  1844  had 
occupied  the  fertile  valleys  from  Puget  Sound  on  the 
north  to  Calapooia  on  the  south.  That  of  1845  deter- 
mined that  the  territory  should  be  the  home  of  Ameri- 
cans; it  doubled  the  population  already  on  the  ground, 
re-inforced  the  compact  form  of  government,  and  laid 
broad  and  deep  the  foundations  of  new  American  com- 
monwealths. 

Our  author,  Joel  Palmer,  a  shrewd,  genial  farmer 
from  Indiana,  was  a  leader  among  these  emigrants  of 
1845.  Born  across  the  Canada  line  in  1810,  he  never- 
theless was  of  New  York  parentage,  and  American 
to  the  core.  In  early  life  his  family  removed  to  Indiana, 
where  Joel  founded  a  home  at  Laurel,  in  northwest 
Franklin  County.  By  the  suffrages  of  his  neighbors 
Palmer  was  sent  to  the  state  legislature  in  1844,  but 
the  following  year  determined  to  make  a  tour  to  Oregon 
for  personal  observation,  before  deciding  to  remove  his 
family  thither  and  cast  his  future  lot  with  its  pioneer 
settlers.  Arrived  on  the  Missouri  frontier,  he  found 
that  the  usual  wagon  train  had  gone  in  advance.  How- 
ever, he  overtook  the  great  body  of  the  emigrants  in 
time  to  assist  in  the  organization  of  the  caravan  on  Big 
Soldier's  Creek,  in  Kansas. 

Gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  Middle  West,  with  no 
attempt  at  organization  nor  any  pre-arrangement  what- 
soever, the  emigrants,  who  had  not  yet  forgotten  the 


1 2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

frontier  traditions  of  their  fathers,  proved  to  be  a  homo- 
geneous body  of  about  three  thousand  alert,  capable 
travellers,  provided  in  general  with  necessities  and 
even  comforts  for  the  hardships  of  the  long  journey; 
indeed,  after  the  manner  of  their  Aryan  forbears  in  the 
great  westerly  migrations  of  the  past,  they  were  accom- 
panied by  herds  of  cattle,  to  form  the  basis  of  agri- 
cultural life  in  the  new  land.  Each  of  the  several 
hundred  wagons  was  a  travelling  house,  provided  with 
tents,  beds,  and  cooking  utensils;  clothing  and  food 
were  also  carried,  sufficient  not  only  for  the  journey 
out,  but  for  subsistence  through  the  first  year,  always 
the  crucial  stage  of  agricultural  pioneering.  The 
draught  cattle  were  largely  oxen,  but  many  of  the  men 
rode  horses,  and  others  drove  them  with  their  cows 
and  bulls. 

Aside  from  the  duties  of  the  nightly  encampment 
and  morning  "catch-up,"  life  upon  the  migration  pro- 
gressed much  as  in  settled  communities.  There  were 
instances  of  courtship,  marriage,  illness,  and  death,  and 
not  infrequently  births,  among  the  migrating  families. 
These,  together  with  the  ever-shifting  panorama  of 
sky,  plains,  and  mountains,  made  the  incidents  of  the 
long  and  tedious  journey.  Occasionally  there  appeared 
upon  the  horizon  an  Indian  gazing  silently  at  these 
invaders  of  his  tribal  domain,  and  at  times  he  came 
even  to  the  wagon  wheels  to  beg  or  trade;  the  mere 
numbers  of  the  travellers  gave  him  abundant  caution 
not  to  attempt  hostilities.  The  wagons  were  so  numer- 
ous as  to  render  a  compact  caravan  troublesome  to 
manage  and  disagreeable  to  travel  with.  The  great 
cavalcade  soon  broke  into  smaller  groups,  over  one  of 


1845-1846]  Preface  1 3 

which,  composed  of  thirty  wagons,  Palmer  was  chosen 
captain. 

At  Fort  Laramie  they  rested,  and  feasted  the  Indians, 
who,  in  wonderment  and  not  unnatural  consternation, 
swarmed  about  them  in  the  guise  of  beggars.  Palmer 
afterwards  harangued  the  aboriginal  visitors,  telling 
them  frankly  that  their  entertainers  were  no  traders, 
they  "were  going  to  plough  and  plant  the  ground," 
that  their  relatives  were  coming  behind  them,  and  these 
he  hoped  the  red  men  would  treat  kindly  and  allow  free 
passage  —  a  thinly  veiled  suggestion  that  the  white 
army  of  occupation  had  come  to  stay  and  must  not  be 
interfered  with  by  the  native  population,  or  vengeance 
would  follow. 

From  Fort  Laramie  the  invaders,  for  from  the  stand- 
point of  the  Indians  such  of  course  were  our  Western 
pioneers,  followed  the  usual  trail  to  the  newly-established 
supply  depot  at  Fort  Bridger.  Thence  they  went  by  way 
of  Soda  Springs  to  Fort  Hall,  where  was  found  await- 
ing them  a  delegation  from  California,  seeking,  with 
but  slight  success,  to  persuade  a  portion  of  the  emigrants 
in  that  direction.  Following  Lewis  River  on  its  long 
southern  bend,  the  travellers  at  last  reached  Fort  Boise, 
where  provisions  could  be  purchased  from  Hudson's 
Bay  officials,  and  a  final  breathing-spell  be  taken  before 
attempting  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  journey  —  the 
passage  of  the  Blue  and  Cascade  ranges. 

A  considerable  company  of  the  emigrants,  accom- 
panied by  the  pilot,  Stephen  H.  Meek,  left  the  main 
party  near  Fort  Hall,  to  force  a  new  route  to  the  Wil- 
lamette without  following  Columbia  River.  The  essay 
was,  however,  disastrous.  Meek  became  bewildered, 


14  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

and  was  obliged  to  secrete  himself  to  escape  the  revenge 
of  the  exasperated  travellers,  who  reached  the  Dalles 
of  the  Columbia  in  an  exhausted  condition,  having  lost 
many  of  their  number  through  hunger  and  physical 
hardships. 

Palmer  himself  continued  with  the  main  caravan  on 
the  customary  route  through  the  Grande  Ronde,  down 
the  Umatilla  and  the  Columbia,  arriving  at  the  Dalles 
by  the  closing  days  of  September.  Here  a  new  diffi- 
culty faced  the  weary  pioneers  —  there  was  no  wagon 
road  beyond  the  Dalles;  boats  to  transport  the  intend- 
ing colonists  were  few,  and  had  been  pre-empted  by 
the  early  arrivals,  while  provisions  at  the  Dalles  would 
soon  be  exhausted.  In  this  situation  Palmer  deter- 
mined to  join  Samuel  K.  Barlow  and  his  company 
in  an  attempt  to  cross  the  Cascades  south  of  Mount 
Hood,  and  lead  the  way  overland  to  the  Willamette 
valley.  This  proved  an  arduous  task,  calling  for  all 
the  skill  and  fortitude  of  experienced  pathfinders.  In 
its  course,  Palmer  ascended  Mount  Hood,  which  he 
describes  as  "a  sight  more  nobly  grand"  than  any  he 
had  ever  looked  upon.  At  last  the  valley  of  the  Clacka- 
mas  was  reached,  and  Oregon  City,  the  little  capital 
of  the  new  territory,  was  attained,  where  "we  were  so 
filled  with  gratitude  that  we  had  reached  the  settlements 
of  the  white  man,  and  with  admiration  at  the  appearance 
of  the  large  sheet  of  water  rolling  over  the  Falls,  that 
we  stopped,  and  in  this  moment  of  happiness  recounted 
our  toils,  in  thought,  with  more  rapidity  than  tongue 
can  express  or  pen  write."  The  distance  that  he  had 
travelled  from  Independence,  Missouri,  our  author 
estimates  at  1,960  miles. 


1845-1846]  Preface  1 5 

Passing  the  winter  of  1845-46  in  Oregon,  Palmer 
made  a  careful  examination  of  its  resources,  and  in  his 
book  describes  the  country  in  much  detail.  The  ensu- 
ing spring,  after  a  journey  to  the  Lapwai  mission  for 
horses,  he  started  on  the  return  route,  arriving  at  his 
home  in  Laurel,  Indiana,  upon  the  twenty-third  of  July. 

Palmer's  experience,  although  trying,  had  been  suffi- 
ciently satisfactory  to  justify  his  intention  to  make  a 
permanent  home  in  Oregon.  In  1847  he  took  his  family 
thither,  the  emigration  of  that  year  being  sometimes 
known  as  "Palmer's  train,"  he  having  been  elected 
captain  of  the  entire  caravan,  also  in  recognition  of 
his  great  utility  to  the  expedition.  The  new  caravan 
had  but  just  arrived  in  Oregon  —  now  belonging  defi- 
nitely to  the  United  States  —  when  the  Whitman 
massacre  aroused  the  colonists  to  punish  the  Indian 
participants  in  order  to  ensure  their  own  safety.  In 
the  organization  of  the  militia  force,  Joel  Palmer 
was  chosen  quartermaster  and  commissary  general, 
whence  the  title  of  General,  by  which  he  was  subse- 
quently known. 

He  was  also  made  one  of  two  commissioners  to 
attempt  to  treat  with  the  recalcitrant  tribes,  and  win 
to  neutrality  as  many  as  possible.  Accompanied  by 
Dr.  Robert  Newell,  a  former  mountain  man,  and  Perrin 
Whitman,  the  murdered  man's  nephew,  as  interpreter, 
Palmer  risked  his  life  in  the  land  of  the  hostiles,  and 
succeeded  in  alienating  many  Nez  Perec's  and  Walla- 
walla  from  the  guilty  Cayuse.  Thus  was  laid  the 
foundation  of  that  full  knowledge  of  aboriginal  char- 
acter that  availed  him  in  his  service  as  United  States 
superintendent  of  Indians  for  Oregon. 


1 6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

To  this  difficult  position  General  Palmer  was  ap- 
pointed by  President  Pierce  in  1853,  just  on  the  eve 
of  an  outbreak  in  southern  Oregon,  and  his  term  of 
office  coincided  with  the  period  of  Indian  wars.  After 
pacifying  the  southern  tribes,  Palmer  inaugurated  the 
reservation  system,  removing  the  remnants  of  the  tribes 
of  the  Willamette  valley  and  their  southward  neighbors 
to  a  large  tract  in  Polk  and  Yamhill  counties,  known 
as  Grande  Ronde  Reservation.  This  ended  the  Indian 
difficulties  in  that  quarter  until  the  Modoc  War,  twenty 
years  later. 

Palmer  found  the  tribesmen  east  of  the  mountains 
more  difficult  to  subdue.  Scarcely  had  he  and  Isaac 
T.  Stevens,  governor  of  Washington  Territory,  made  a 
series  of  treaties  (1855)  with  the  Nez  Perec's,  Cayuse, 
Wallawalla,  and  neighboring  tribes,  when  the  Yakima 
War  began,  and  embroiled  both  territories  until  1858. 
During  these  difficulties  the  military  authorities  com- 
plained that  Commissioner  Palmer  was  too  lenient  with 
former  hostiles,  and  pinned  too  much  faith  to  their 
promises.  Consequently  the  Oregon  superintendency 
was  merged  with  that  of  Washington  (1857),  and  James 
W.  Nesmith  appointed  to  the  combined  office. 

Retiring  to  his  home  in  Dayton,  Yamhill  County, 
which  town  he  had  laid  out  in  1850,  General  Palmer 
was  soon  called  upon  to  serve  in  the  state  legislature, 
being  speaker  of  the  house  of  representatives  (1862-63), 
and  state  senator  (1864-66).  During  the  latter  incum- 
bency he  declined  being  a  candidate  for  United  States 
senator,  because  of  his  belief  that  a  person  already 
holding  a  public  office  of  emolument  should  not  during 
his  term  be  elected  to  another.  In  1870  he  was  Repub- 


1845-1846]  Preface  17 

lican  candidate  for  governor  of  the  state,  but  was  defeated 
by  a  majority  of  less  than  seven  hundred  votes.  From 
this  time  forward  he  lived  quietly  at  Dayton,  and  there 
passed  away  upon  the  ninth  of  June,  1881.  His  excel- 
lent portrait  given  in  Lyman's  History  of  Oregon  (iii, 
p.  398)  is  that  of  an  old  man;  but  the  face  is  still 
strong  and  kindly,  with  a  high  and  broad  forehead,  and 
gentle  yet  piercing  eyes. 

One  of  Palmer's  fellow  pioneers  said  of  him,  "he 
was  a  man  of  ardent  temperament,  strong  friendships, 
and  full  of  hope  and  confidence  in  his  fellow  men." 
Another  calls  his  greatest  characteristic  his  honesty 
and  integrity.  Widely  known  and  respected  in  the 
entire  North  West,  his  services  in  the  up-building  of  the 
new  community  were  of  large  import. 

Not  the  least  of  these  services  was,  in  our  judgment, 
the  publication  of  his  Journal  of  Travels  over  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  herein  reprinted,  which  was  compiled  dur- 
ing the  winter  of  1846-47,  and  planned  as  a  guide  for 
intending  emigrants.  The  author  hoped  to  have  it  in 
readiness  for  the  train  of  1847,  but  the  publishers  were 
dilatory  and  he  only  received  about  a  dozen  copies  before 
starting.  The  book  proved  useful  enough,  however, 
to  require  two  later  editions,  one  in  1851,  another  in 
1852,  and  was  much  used  by  emigrants  of  the  sixth 
decade  of  the  past  century. 

Palmer  makes  no  pretence  of  literary  finish.  He 
gives  us  a  simple  narrative  of  each  day's  happenings 
during  his  own  first  journey  in  1845,  taking  especial 
care  to  indicate  the  route,  each  night's  camping  places, 
and  all  possible  cut-offs,  springs,  grassy  oases,  and 
whatever  else  might  conduce  to  the  well-being  of  the 


1 8  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

emigrant  and  his  beasts.  The  great  care  taken  by  the 
author,  with  this  very  practical  end  in  view,  results  in 
his  volume  being  the  most  complete  description  of  the 
Oregon  Trail  that  we  now  possess.  Later,  his  account 
of  passing  around  Mount  Hood  and  the  initial  sur- 
vey of  the  Barlow  road,  produces  a  marked  effect 
through  its  simplicity  of  narrative.  His  incidents  have 
a  quaint  individuality,  as  for  instance  the  reproof  from 
the  Cayuse  chief  for  the  impiety  of  card-playing.  No 
better  description  of  the  Willamette  valley  can  be 
found  than  in  these  pages,  and  our  author's  records  of 
the  climate,  early  prices  in  Oregon,  and  the  necessities 
of  an  emigrant's  outfit,  complete  a  graphic  picture  of 
pioneering  days. 

In  the  annotation  of  the  present  volume,  we  have 
had  valuable  suggestions  and  some  material  help  from 
Principal  William  I.  Marshall  of  Chicago,  Professor 
Edmond  S.  Meany  of  the  University  of  Washington, 
Mr.  George  H.  Himes  of  Portland,  Dr.  Joseph  Schafer 
of  the  University  of  Oregon,  and  Mr.  Edward  Huggins, 
a  veteran  Hudson's  Bay  Company  official  at  Fort 
Nisqually. 

With  this  volume  our  series  of  narratives  ends,  save 
for  the  general  index  reserved  for  volume  xxxi.  The 
Western  travels  which  began  in  tentative  excursions 
into  the  Indian  country  around  Pittsburg  and  Eastern 
Ohio  in  1748,  have  carried  us  to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific. 
The  continent  has  been  spanned.  Not  without  some 
exhibitions  of  wanton  cruelty  on  the  part  of  the  whites 
have  the  aborigines  been  pushed  from  their  fertile  seats 
and  driven  to  the  mountain  wall.  The  American 
frontier  has  steadily  retreated  —  at  first  from  the  Alle- 


1845-1 846]  Preface  1 9 

ghanies  to  the  Middle  West,  thence  across  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  now  at  the  close  of  our  series  it  is  ascending 
the  Missouri  and  has  sent  vanguards  to  the  Farthest 
Northwest.  The  ruts  of  caravan  routes  have  been 
deeply  sunk  into  the  plains  and  deserts,  and  wheel 
marks  are  visible  through  the  length  of  several 
mountain  passes.  The  greater  part  of  the  continental 
interior  has  been  threaded  and  mapped.  The  era  of 
railroad  building  and  the  engineer  is  at  hand.  The 
long  journey  to  the  Western  ocean  has  been  ridded 
of  much  of  its  peril,  and  is  less  a  question  of  mighty 
endurance  than  confronted  the  pathfinders.  When 
Francis  Parkman,  the  historian  of  New  France,  going 
out  upon  the  first  stages  of  the  Oregon  Trail  in  1847 
—  the  year  following  the  date  of  the  present  volume  — 
saw  emigrant  wagons  fitted  with  rocking  chairs  and 
cooking  stoves,  he  foresaw  the  advent  of  the  common- 
place upon  the  plains,  and  the  end  of  the  romance  of 
EARLY  WESTERN  TRAVELS. 

Throughout  the  entire  task  of  preparing  for  the  press 
this  series  of  reprints,  the  Editor  has  had  the  assistance 
of  Louise  Phelps  Kellogg,  Ph.  D.,  a  member  of  his  staff 
in  the  Wisconsin  Historical  Library.  Others  have  also 
rendered  editorial  aid,  duly  acknowledged  in  the  several 
volumes  as  occasion  arose;  but  from  beginning  to  end, 
particularly  in  the  matter  of  annotation,  Dr.  Kellogg 
has  been  his  principal  research  colleague,  and  he  takes 
great  pleasure  in  asking  for  her  a  generous  share  of 
whatever  credit  may  accrue  from  the  undertaking. 
Annie  Amelia  Nunns,  A.B.,  also  of  his  library  staff,  has 
rendered  most  valuable  expert  aid,  chiefly  in  proof- 
reading and  indexing.  The  Editor  cannot  close  his 


2O  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

last  word  to  the  Reader  without  gratefully  calling 
attention,  as  well,  to  the  admirable  mechanical  and 
artistic  dress  with  which  his  friends  the  Publishers  have 
generously  clothed  the  series,  and  to  bear  witness  to 
their  kindly  suggestions,  active  assistance,  and  unwearied 
patience,  during  the  several  years  of  preparation  and 
publication. 

R.  G.  T. 
MADISON,  Wis.,  August,  1906. 


PALMER'S  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVER  THE  ROCKY 
MOUNTAINS,  1845-1846 


Reprint  of  original  edition:    Cincinnati,  1847 


JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS 

OTKft  THE 

ROCKY   MOUNTAINS, 

TO  THE 

MOUTH  OF  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER; 

•  ADS    DURING    THE    YIARS    18*5    AND    184«i 

comrAncmo  KINUTS  csscm-nows  or  TK» 
VALLEYS  OF  THE  WILLAMETTE,  UMPQUA,  AND  CLAMET  ; 

A  ABtZBAt.  PBKRirnOM  O» 

OREGON  TERRITORY; 

IT*    ItHABITAMTS,    CLIMATE,   SOIL,    PRODUKTIOJf  S.    ETC..  ETC.  ; 
A  LBT  07 

NECESSARY  OUTFITS  FOR  EMIGRANTS: 


Cable  of  Sfstraces  from  <gamj>  to  Camp  on  tftc  JSUute. 

ALSO; 

A  Lktter  from  ihe  Rev.  H.  H.  Spalding,  resident  Missionary,  for  the  la*  tea  TMn, 
among  the  Net  Perci  Tribe  of  Indians,  on  the  Koos-kooi-ke«  Hirer  ;  Th« 
Organic  Laws  of  Oregon  Territory  ,  Tables  of  about  300  words  of  the  Chinook 
Jargon,  and  about  900  Words  of  the  Ncz  Perce  Language  ;  a  Doacription  of 
Mount'  Hood  ;  Incidents  of  Travel,  4«  ,  Ac. 


BY  JOKL  PALMER. 


CINCINNATI: 

J.  A.  &  U.  P.  JAMES,  WALNUT  STREET, 
BETWEEN  FOURTH  AND  FIFTH. 

1847. 


ENTERED,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1847,  by 

J.  A.  &  U.  P.  JAMES, 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Ohio. 


TO  THE 

PIONEERS   OF  THE  WEST, 
AND  THEIR  DESCENDANTS, 

THE  BONE  AND  MUSCLE  OF  THE  COMMUNITY, 

WHO  IMPROVE  AND  ENRICH  THE  COUNTRY  IN  PEACE, 

AND  PROTECT  AND  DEFEND  IT  IN  WAR, 

THIS  WORK 

IS  RESPECTFULLY 

DEDICATED. 


PUBLISHERS'   ADVERTISEMENT 

IN  offering  to  the  public  a  new  work  on  Oregon,  the 
publishers  feel  confident  that  they  are  performing  an 
acceptable  service  to  all  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining 
full  and  correct  information  of  that  extensive  and  inter- 
esting region. 

The  facts  contained  in  this  Journal  of  Travels  over 
the  Rocky  Mountains  were  obtained,  by  the  author, 
from  personal  inspection  and  observation;  or  derived 
from  intelligent  persons,  some  of  whom  had  resided  in 
the  country  for  ten  years  previously.  It  contains,  as  is 
believed,  much  very  valuable  information  never  before 
published,  respecting  the  Oregon  Territory. 

Mr.  Palmer's  statements  and  descriptions  are  direct 
and  clear,  and  may  be  relied  on  for  their  accuracy. 
He  observed  with  the  eye  of  an  intelligent  farmer  the 
hills  and  valleys;  timbered  land  and  prairies,  soil,  grass, 
mill  sites,  &c.;  all  of  which  he  has  particularly  de- 
scribed. 

To  the  man  about  to  emigrate  to  Oregon  just  the  kind 
of  information  needed  is  given.  He  is  informed  what 
is  the  best  season  for  setting  out;  the  kinds  and  quanti- 
ties of  necessary  outfits;  where  they  may  be  purchased 
to  the  best  advantage,  so  as  to  save  money,  time  and 
useless  hauling  of  provisions,  and  to  promote  comfort 
and  prevent  suffering  on  the  long  journey. 

[vi]  A  particular  account  of  Oregon  city  is  given; 
the  number  of  houses  and  inhabitants;  the  number 


28  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

and  kinds  of  mechanical  trades  carried  on;    and  the 
prices  current  during  the  author's  stay  there. 

The  objects  of  natural  curiosity  on  the  route  —  the 
Solitary  Tower  —  the  Chimney  Rock  —  Independence 
Rock  —  the  Hot  Springs  —  the  Devil's  Gate  —  the 
South  Pass  —  the  Soda  Springs,  and  many  others  — 
are  noticed. 

The  work  is  enlivened  with  anecdotes  of  mountaineer 
life  —  shooting  buffalo  —  hunting  bear  —  taking  fish, 
&c. 

Mr.  Palmer  made  the  ascent  of  one  of  the  highest 
peaks  of  Mount  Hood,  almost  alone,  and  with  a  very 
scanty  supply  of  provisions.  An  extraordinary  achieve- 
ment, when  the  circumstances  under  which  it  was 
accomplished  are  taken  into  consideration. 

Cincinnati,  January,  1847. 


JOURNAL  OF   TRAVELS    OVER   THE 
ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 

HAVING  concluded,  from  the  best  information  I  was 
able  to  obtain,  that  the  Oregon  Territory  offers  great 
inducements  to  emigrants,  I  determined  to  visit  it  with 
a  view  of  satisfying  myself  in  regard  to  it,  and  of  ascer- 
taining by  personal  observation  whether  its  advantages 
were  sufficient  to  warrant  me  in  the  effort  to  make  it 
my  future  home.1  I  started,  accordingly,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  1 6th  of  April,  1845,  m  company  with  Mr. 
Spencer  Buckley.  We  expected  to  be  joined  by  several 
young  men  from  Rushville,  Ind.,  but  they  all  abandoned 
the  enterprise,  and  gave  us  no  other  encouragement 
than  their  good  wishes  for  our  success  and  safety.  I 
took  leave  of  my  family,  friends  and  home,  with  a  truly 
melancholy  heart.  I  had  long  looked  forward  and 
suffered  in  imagination  the  pain  of  this  anticipated 
separation;  but  I  had  not  tasted  of  its  realities,  and 
none  but  those  who  have  parted  with  a  family  under 
similar  circumstances,  can  form  any  just  conception 
of  the  depth  and  power  of  the  emotions  which  pervaded 
my  breast  on  that  occasion.  The  undertaking  before 


1  Oregon  Territory,  which  under  the  treaty  of  1818  was  held  in  joint  occu- 
pation by  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  had  been  brought  into  promi- 
nence by  the  presidential  campaign  of  1844,  and  the  belligerent  message  of 
President  Polk  at  his  inauguration  in  March,  1845.  Emigration  thither  for 
the  year  1845  exceeded  that  of  any  previous  season  and  consisted  of  nearly 
three  thousand  persons,  largely  from  Missouri  and  the  frontier  states  of  the 
Old  Northwest. —  ED. 


30  Earfy  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

me  was  arduous.  It  might  and  doubtless  would  be 
attended  with  various  and  unknown  difficulties,  priva- 
tions and  dangers.  A  doubt  arose  in  my  mind,  whether 
the  advantages,  which  were  expected  to  result  from  the 
trip,  would  be  likely  to  compensate  for  the  time  and 
expense  necessary  to  accomplish  it:  but  I  believed 
that  I  was  right,  hoped  for  the  best,  and  pressed  on- 
ward. 

We  were  favoured  with  a  pleasant  day  and  good  roads, 
which  tended  in  some  degree  to  dissipate  the  gloom 
which  [10]  had  weighed  down  my  spirits  upon  leaving 
home.  Our  day's  travel  ended  at  Blue  River,  on  the 
banks  of  which  we  encamped  for  the  first  time  on  the 
long  and  tedious  journey  before  us.2 

April  17.  Arrived  at  Indianapolis,  in  the  afternoon, 
where  we  expected  to  meet  a  number  of  persons,  who 
had  expressed  a  determination  to  join  the  party.8  But 
here  too,  as  in  the  case  of  our  Rushville  friends,  we  were 
doomed  to  meet  disappointment ;  —  not  one  was  found 
willing  to  join  us  in  our  expedition.  After  having  had 
our  horses  well  shod,  (we  traveled  in  an  ordinary  wagon 
drawn  by  two  horses,)  and  having  laid  in  a  supply  of 
medicines,  we  put  up  for  the  night. 

April  1 8.  We  this  day  had  a  sample  of  what  might 
be  called  the  mishaps  of  travelers  —  an  encounter  with 
a  wild  animal,  the  first  which  we  met  in  our  journey. 
One  of  our  horses  becoming  lame,  we  were  obliged  to 
trade  him  away,  and  received  in  exchange  one  so  wild, 

J  Blue  River,  in  central  Indiana,  flowing  through  Rush  and  Shelby  counties, 
is  part  of  the  White  River  system. —  ED. 

1  For  a  note  on  the  founding  of  Indianapolis  see  our  volume  ii,  p.  190, 
note  100. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  3 1 

that  it  required  the  greatest  vigilance  and  exertion  on 
our  part  to  prevent  him  from  running  away  with  our 
whole  concern.  We  reached  Mount  Meridian  after 
a  day's  journey  of  about  thirty-four  miles,  during  which 
we  succeeded  admirably  in  taming  our  wild  horse.4 

April  24.  Reached  the  Mississippi,  opposite  to  St. 
Louis,  having  traveled  daily,  and  made  the  best  of  our 
time  after  leaving  Mount  Meridian. 

April  25.  We  made  a  few  purchases  this  morning, 
consisting  chiefly  of  Indian  trinkets,  tobacco,  powder, 
lead,  &c.  and,  soon  after,  resumed  our  journey  upon 
the  road  to  St.  Charles,  the  seat  of  justice  for  St.  Charles 
county.5  We  reached  this  place  at  the  close  of  the  day, 
and  encamped  upon  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  which 
appears  to  be  about  as  wide  as  the  Ohio  at  Cincinnati, 
in  a  fair  stage  of  water;  the  current  is  quite  strong;  the 
water  very  thick  and  muddy.  Here,  we  overtook  a 
company  of  Germans,  from  St.  Louis,  who  had  started 
for  California.  The  company  consisted  of  four  men, 
two  women  and  three  children;  they  traveled  with  a 
wagon  drawn  by  six  mules,  and  a  cart  drawn  by  two, 
—  a  very  poor  means  of  conveyance  for  such  a  long 
and  tedious  route.  We  traveled  the  same  road  until 
we  reached  Fort  Hall. 

April  26.  At  nine  o'clock  A.  M.  we  crossed  the  river 
and  traveled  twenty-eight  miles.  The  surface  of  the 
country  is  somewhat  undulating;  the  soil,  though  poorly 
watered,  appears  to  be  good,  and  produces  respectable 
crops. 

4  Mount  Meridian  is  a  small  village  in  Jefferson  township,  Putnam  County, 
Indiana.  It  was  laid  out  in  1833  and  at  first  named  Carthage. —  ED. 

1  For  St.  Charles  see  our  volume  v,  p.  39,  note  9. —  ED. 


32  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 


27.  We  traveled  thirty-one  miles.  The  day 
was  rainy  [n]  and  unpleasant.  The  country  through 
which  we  passed  is  a  rolling  prairie:  some  parts  of  it 
are  very  well  timbered.  On  account  of  the  scarcity 
of  springs,  the  people  rely  generally  upon  their  supplies 
of  rain  water.  There  we  were  joined  by  a  clever  back- 
woodsman, by  the  name  of  Dodson,  who  was  making 
the  best  of  his  lonely  journey  to  join  an  emigrating 
party  at  Independence;  upon  his  consenting  to  bear 
an  equal  share  in  our  expenses  and  outfit  at  that  place, 
we  took  him  in,  and  traveled  together. 

April  28.  We  started  this  morning  at  sunrise,  and 
traveled  to  Lute  creek,  a  distance  of  six  and  a  half  miles.9 
This  stream  was  so  much  swollen,  in  consequence  of 
the  recent  rains,  that  we  were  unable  to  ford  it,  and 
were  forced  to  encamp  upon  its  banks,  and  remain  all 
day.  While  there,  we  were  greatly  annoyed  by  the 
wood-tick  —  an  insect  resembling,  in  size  and  in  other 
respects,  the  sheep-tick.  These  insects,  with  which 
the  bushes  and  even  the  ground  seemed  to  be  covered, 
fastened  themselves  with  such  tenacity  upon  our  flesh, 
that  when  picking  them  off  in  the  morning,  the  head 
would  remain  sticking  fast  to  the  skin,  causing  in  most 
cases  a  painful  wound. 

April  29.  We  traveled  about  twenty-six  miles,  through 
a  gently  undulating  country:  the  principal  crops  con- 
sisted of  corn,  oats,  tobacco  and  some  wheat.  We 
passed  through  Williamsburgh  and  Fulton.  The  latter 
town  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  Callaway  county.7 

6  By  the  term  "  Lute  creek,"  Palmer  intends  Loutre  River,  rising  in  north- 
east Callaway  County,  and  flowing  south  and  southwest  through  Montgomery 
County  into  the  Missouri,  at  Loutre  Island.     See  our  volume  v,  p.  47,  note 
19.  —  ED. 

7  Williamsburgh,  a  village  in  the  township  of  Nine  Mile  Prairie,  Callaway 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  33 

April  30.  We  made  an  advance  of  about  thirty  miles 
through  a  well  timbered  country,  and  passed  through 
Columbia,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Boone  county.  The 
town  is  pleasant  and  surrounded  by  a  fertile  and  attrac- 
tive country.  We  made  our  halt  and  encamped  for 
the  night,  five  miles  westward  of  this  town. 

May  i.  We  started  this  morning  at  the  usual  hour, 
and  after  a  ride  of  eight  miles,  reached  and  re-crossed 
the  Missouri,  at  Rocheport,  and  continued  our  journey 
until  night,  passing  through  Booneville,  the  county 
seat  of  Cooper  —  a  rich  and  fertile  county,  making  in 
all  a  ride  of  twenty-six  miles.8 

May  2.  Passed  through  the  town  of  Marshall,  the 
seat  of  justice  for  Saline  county.  The  town  stands 
upon  an  elevated  prairie,  upon  which  may  be  found 
a  few  groves  of  shrubby  timber.  The  country  upon 
this  [the  west]  side  appeared  to  be  much  better  supplied 
with  water,  than  that  upon  the  east  side.9 

May  3.  We  traveled  about  twenty-eight  miles,  over 
a  thinly-settled  [12]  prairie  country.  The  crops,  culti- 
vated generally  by  negroes,  consisted  of  hemp,  corn, 
oats,  and  a  little  wheat  and  tobacco.  The  soil  appeared 
to  be  good,  but  the  scarcity  of  timber  will  prove  a  serious 
barrier  to  a  complete  settlement  of  the  country. 

May  4.    We   traveled   twenty-three   miles  this  day, 


County,  was  laid  out  in  1836.  For  Fulton  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  131,  note 
7. —  ED. 

8  Columbia  and  Rocheport  are  noted  in  our  volume  rri,  p.  133,  note  8; 
Boonville,  ibid.,  p.  89,  note  59.  Palmer  probably  crossed  the  Missouri  at 
Boonville.  Townsend  went  by  a  similar  route  from  St.  Louis  to  Boonville. 
See  his  Narrative  in  our  volume  xxi,  pp.  125-134. —  ED. 

1  Marshall  was  in  1839  set  off  as  the  county  seat  of  Saline,  and  in  1900 
had  a  population  of  5086.  It  was  named  in  honor  of  the  chief  justice  of  the 
United  States,  who  died  shortly  before  the  incorporation  of  the  town. —  ED. 


34  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

through  a  better  improved  and  pleasanter  part  of  Mis- 
souri, than  any  we  have  yet  seen.  The  crops  appeared 
well;  there  were  fine  orchards  under  successful  culti- 
vation. The  country  is  well  timbered,  and  there  appears 
nothing  to  hinder  it  from  becoming  the  seat  of  a  dense 
and  thriving  population. 

May  6.  Reached  Independence  at  nine  o'clock  A.M.  ;10 
and  as  the  main  body  of  emigrants  had  left  a  few  days 
previous,  we  hastily  laid  in  our  supplies,  and  at  five 
o'clock  P.  M.,  pushed  forward  about  two  miles,  and 
encamped  upon  the  banks  of  a  small  creek,  in  company 
with  four  wagons,  bound  for  Oregon.  From  one  of  the 
wagons  they  drew  forth  a  large  jug  of  whiskey,  and 
before  bed-time  all  the  men  were  completely  intoxicated. 
In  the  crowd  was  a  mountaineer,  who  gave  us  a  few 
lessons  in  the  first  chapter  of  a  life  among  the  mountains. 
At  midnight,  when  all  were  quiet,  I  wrapped  myself  in 
my  blanket,  laid  down  under  an  oak  tree,  and  began  to 
realize  that  I  was  on  my  journey  to  Oregon. 

May  7.  After  traveling  about  fifteen  miles  we  halted 
and  procured  an  extra  set  of  horse-shoes,  and  a  few 
additional  wagon  bows.  The  main  body  of  the  emi- 
grants is  twenty-five  miles  in  advance  of  us:  we  have 
now  passed  out  of  Missouri,  and  are  traveling  in  an 
Indian  country  —  most  of  which  is  a  rolling  prairie." 

May  8.  We  started  at  seven  o'clock,  A.  M.  and 
traveled  about  twenty  miles.  Towards  evening  we 
overtook  an  emigrating  company,  consisting  of  thirty- 

10  For  Independence  see  our  volume  xix,  p.  189,  note  34.      Gregg   gives 
a  much  fuller  description  of  this  town  as  an  outfitting  place,  than  does  our 
present  author;  ibid,,  pp.  188-192. —  ED. 

11  On  the  bounds  of  this  territory,  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  50,  note  31. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  35 

eight  wagons,  with  about  one  thousand  head  of  loose 
cattle,  all  under  the  direction  of  a  Mr.  Brown.  We 
passed  this  company,  expecting  to  overtake  a  company 
of  about  one  hundred  wagons,  which  were  but  a  few 
miles  before  us.  The  night,  however,  became  so  dark 
that  we  were  compelled  to  encamp  upon  the  prairie. 
Soon  after  we  had  staked  our  horses,  a  herd  of  wild 
Indian  horses  came  galloping  furiously  by  us,  which 
so  alarmed  our  horses  and  mules,  that  they  broke  loose 
and  ran  away  after  them.  Dodson  and  myself  pursued, 
but  were  distanced,  and  after  running  two  or  three 
miles,  abandoned  the  chase  as  hopeless,  and  attempted 
to  return  to  the  camp.  Owing  to  the  darkness,  we 
[13]  were  unable  to  find  our  camp,  until  the  night  had 
far  advanced ;  and  when  we  finally  reached  it,  it  required 
all  my  logic,  supported  by  the  positive  testimony  of 
Buckley,  to  convince  Dodson  that  we  were  actually 
there. 

May  9.  At  daylight,  Dodson  and  I  resumed  the  search 
for  our  lost  stock.  After  a  fatiguing  tramp  of  several 
hours,  I  came  upon  one  of  the  mules,  which  being  hobbled, 
had  been  unable  to  keep  with  the  herd.  Dodson  was 
unsuccessful,  and  returned  to  camp  before  me;  during 
our  absence,  however,  the  herd  had  strolled  near  the 
camp,  and  Buckley  had  succeeded  in  taking  our  two 
horses.  Having  taken  some  refreshments,  we  started 
again  in  search  of  the  lost  animals.  As  I  was  return 
ing  to  camp,  hopeless,  weary  and  hungry,  I  saw  at  a 
distance  Dodson  and  Buckley  mounted  upon  our  two 
horses,  and  giving  chase  to  the  herd  of  Indian  horses, 
among  which  were  our  two  mules.  The  scene  was 
wild,  romantic  and  exciting.  The  race  was  untram- 


36  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

meled  by  any  of  those  arbitrary  and  useless  rules  with 
which  the  "knights  of  the  turf"  encumber  their  races, 
and  was  pursued  on  both  sides,  for  a  nobler  purpose; 
it  was  to  decide  between  the  rights  of  property  on  the 
one  side,  and  the  rights  of  liberty  on  the  other.  The 
contest  was  for  a  long  time  doubtful;  but  the  herd 
finally  succeeded  in  winning  the  race,  and  poor  Buckley 
and  Dodson  were  compelled  to  yield;  the  former  hav- 
ing lost  his  reputation  as  a  sportsman,  and  the  latter  — 
what  grieved  him  more, —  his  team;  and  both  had  ruined 
the  character  of  their  coursers  in  suffering  them  to  be 
beaten.  Sad  and  dispirited,  they  returned  to  camp, 
where,  after  a  short  consultation,  it  was  unanimously 
resolved, —  inasmuch  as  there  was  no  other  alternative, 
—  to  suffer  the  mules  freely  and  forever  to  enjoy  the 
enlarged  liberty  which  they  had  so  nobly  won. 

The  day  was  nearly  spent,  but  we  harnessed  up  our 
team  and  traveled  four  miles,  to  the  crossing  of  a  creek, 
where  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

May  10.  Re-considered  our  resolution  of  last  even- 
ing, and  spent  the  morning  looking  for  the  mules  — 
re-adopted  the  same  resolution,  for  the  same  reason, 
and  then  resumed  our  journey. 

We  advanced  about  eighteen  miles  through  a  very 
fertile  and  well  watered  country,  and  possessing,  along 
the  banks  of  the  water  courses,  a  supply  of  bur  and 
white  oak,  ash,  elm,  and  black  walnut  timber,  amply 
sufficient  for  all  practical  purposes.  In  our  travel,  we 
crossed  a  stream  called  the  Walkarusha,  extending 
back  from  which,  about  two  miles  in  width,  [14]  we 
discovered  a  fine  bottom  covered  with  heavy  bur  oak 
and  black  walnut  timber.  After  passing  through  this 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  'Journal  37 

bottom,  the  trail  strikes  into  a  level  and  beautiful  prairie, 
and  crossing  it  —  a  distance  of  four  miles  —  rises  gradu- 
ally to  the  ridge  between  the  Walkarusha  and  the  Caw, 
or  Kansas  river."  We  encamped  upon  the  ridge,  in  full 
view  of  the  two  streams,  which  at  this  place  are  from  six 
to  eight  miles  apart.  The  banks  of  both  streams,  as  far  as 
can  be  seen,  are  lined,  either  way,  with  excellent  timber: 
the  country  rises  gradually  from  the  streams,  for  fifteen 
or  twenty  miles,  with  alternate  forests  and  prairies, 
presenting  to  the  eye  a  truly  splendid  scene.  I  noticed 
here  almost  a  countless  number  of  mounds,  in  different 
directions  —  some  covered  with  'timber,  others  with 
long  grass.  The  Caw  or  Kansas  Indians  dwell  along 
these  streams.  Through  this  part  of  the  route  there 
are  two  trails,  uniting  near  our  camp;  the  difference 
in  the  distance  is  small.18 

May  1 1 .  We  traveled  about  twenty  miles,  and  passed 
a  company  of  twenty-eight  wagons.  The  road  runs 
upon  the  ridge,  which  after  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve 
miles  becomes  a  broad  rolling  prairie.  As  night  came 
on,  we  came  up  with  the  company  of  one  hundred  wagons 
which  we  were  in  pursuit  of:  they  were  encamped  upon 
the  banks  of  a  small  brook,  four  miles  from  the  Kansas, 

12  Walkarusa  Creek  rises  in  several  branches  in  Wabaunsee  County,  and 
flows  east  through  Shawnee  and  Douglas  into  Kansas  River.     The  crossing 
of  the  Oregon  Trail  was  almost  directly  south  of  Lawrence.     The  trail  thence 
followed  the  divide  between  the  creek  and  river  to  about  the  present  site  of 
Topeka.     During  the  Free  Soil  troubles  in  Kansas,  a  bloodless  campaign 
(1855)  along  this  creek  toward  Lawrence  was  known  as  the  "Walkarusa 
War." 

Kansas  River  is  noted  in  our  volume  xiv,  p.  174,  note  140. —  ED. 

13  For  the   Kansa   Indians   see   our  volume   v,   p.   67,  note  37;  also  our 
volume  xxviii,  p.  140,  note  84.     Wyeth  notes  their  village  in  his  Oregon, 
our  volume  xxi,  pp.  48,  49. —  ED. 


38  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

into  which  it  empties.  We  joined  this  company.  At 
dark  the  guard  was  stationed,  who  becoming  tired  of  their 
monotonous  round  of  duty,  amused  themselves  by  shoot- 
ing several  dogs,  and  by  so  doing  excited  no  small  tumult 
in  the  company,  which  after  some  exertion  on  the  part 
of  the  more  orderly  portion  was  quelled,  and  tranquility 
restored. 

May  12.  We  traveled  about  four  miles  to  Caw  or 
Kansas  river.  This  is  a  muddy  stream,  of  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  width.  We  were  obliged 
to  be  ferried  over  it  in  a  flat  boat;  and  so  large  was  our 
company,  and  so  slowly  did  the  ferrymen  carry  on  the 
necessary  operations,  that  darkness  overtook  us  before 
half  the  wagons  had  crossed  the  stream.  Fearing 
molestation  from  the  numerous  Indians  who  were 
prowling  about,  we  were  compelled  to  keep  a  strong 
guard  around  our  camp,  and  especially  around  our 
cattle;  and  when  all  the  preliminaries  had  been  arranged, 
we  betook  ourselves  to  rest;  but  our  tranquility  was 
soon  interrupted  by  one  of  the  most  terrific  thunder 
storms  that  I  ever  witnessed.  It  appeared  to  me  that 
the  very  elements  had  broken  loose,  and  that  each 
was  engaging  madly  in  a  desperate  struggle  for  the 
mastery.  All  was  confusion  in  our  camp.  The  storm 
had  so  frightened  the  cattle,  [15]  that  they  were  perfectly 
furious  and  ungovernable,  and  rushed  through  the 
guard,  and  dashed  forward  over  the  country  before 
us:  nothing  could  be  done  to  secure  them,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  allow  them  to  have  out  their  race,  and  endeavor 
to  guard  our  camp. 

May  13.  Early  this  morning  we  succeeded  in  find- 
ing and  taking  possession  of  our  cattle,  and  by  noon 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  39 

all  our  wagons  had  crossed  the  river.  Soon  after  we 
took  up  our  line  of  march,  and  after  advancing  about 
three  miles,  encamped  near  the  banks  of  Big  Soldier 
creek,  for  the  purpose  of  organizing  the  company  by  an 
election  of  officers;  the  officers  then  acting  having  been 
elected  to  serve  only  until  the  company  should  reach 
this  place.1*  It  was  decided,  when  at  Independence, 
that  here  there  should  be  a  thorough  and  complete 
organization.  Great  interest  had  been  manifested 
in  regard  to  the  matter  while  upon  the  road;  but 
now  when  we  had  reached  the  spot  and  the  period 
for  attending  to  the  matter  in  earnest  had  arrived,  the 
excitement  was  intense.  The  most  important  officers 
to  be  elected  were  the  pilot  and  captain  of  the  com- 
pany. There  were  two  candidates  for  the  office  of 
pilot, —  one  a  Mr.  Adams,  from  Independence, —  the 
other  a  Mr.  Meek,  from  the  same  place.  Mr.  Adams 
had  once  been  as  far  west  as  Fort  Laramie,  had  in  his 
possession  Gilpin's  Notes,15  had  engaged  a  Spaniard, 
who  had  traveled  over  the  whole  route,  to  accompany 
him,  and  moreover  had  been  conspicuously  instrumental 

"  For  this  stream  see  De  Smet's  Letters  in  our  volume  xxvii,  p.  197,  note 
74  —  ED. 

11  This  was  probably  a  local  publication  of  the  journal  or  notes  of  William 
Gilpin,  who  went  to  Oregon  with  Fremont's  party  in  1843.  Gilpin  was  a 
Pennsylvanian,  appointed  cadet  at  West  Point  in  1834.  Two  years  later  he 
became  lieutenant  in  the  2nd  dragoons,  and  saw  frontier  service,  resigning 
from  the  army  in  1838.  He  accompanied  Fremont  as  far  as  the  Dalles  of 
the  Columbia,  and  passed  the  winter  of  1843-44  in  the  Willamette  valley, 
returning  overland  to  the  states  in  1844.  As  an  intelligent  observer  his  reports 
on  the  Oregon  country  were  much  sought  (see  Miles'  Register,  Ixvii,  p.  161). 
Gilpin  afterwards  served  in  the  Mexican  War,  and  earnestly  urged  the  building 
of  a  Pacific  railway.  In  1861  he  was  appointed  first  territorial  governor  of 
Colorado,  in  recognition  of  "  his  services  as  an  explorer  of  the  Great  West," 
and  lived  until  1894. —  ED. 


40  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

in  producing  the  "Oregon  fever."  In  case  the  com- 
pany would  elect  him  pilot,  and  pay  him  five  hundred 
dollars,  in  advance,  he  would  bind  himself  to  pilot  them 
to  Fort  Vancouver. 

Mr.  Meek,  an  old  mountaineer,  had  spent  several 
years  as  a  trader  and  trapper,  among  the  mountains, 
and  had  once  been  through  to  Fort  Vancouver;18  he 
proposed  to  pilot  us  through  for  two  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars,  thirty  of  which  were  to  be  paid  in  advance, 
and  the  balance  when  we  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver. 
A  motion  was  then  made  to  postpone  the  election  to  the 
next  day.  While  we  were  considering  the  motion, 
Meek  came  running  into  the  camp,  and  informed  us 
that  the  Indians  were  driving  away  our  cattle.  This 
intelligence  caused  the  utmost  confusion:  motions  and 
propositions,  candidates  and  their  special  friends,  were 
alike  disregarded;  rifles  were  grasped,  and  horses  were 
hastily  mounted,  and  away  we  all  galloped  in  pursuit. 
Our  two  thousand  head  of  cattle  were  now  scattered 
over  the  prairie,  at  a  distance  of  four  or  five  miles  from 
the  camp. 

[16]  About  two  miles  from  camp,  in  full  view,  up 
the  prairie,  was  a  small  Indian  village;  the  greater 
part  of  our  enraged  people,  with  the  hope  of  hearing 


10  Stephen  Hall  Meek  was  a  brother  of  Colonel  Joseph  Meek  so  well  known 
as  an  Oregon  pioneer  (see  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  290,  note  171).  Stephen 
began  his  career  as  a  trapper  under  Captain  Bonneville  in  1832,  and  accom- 
panied Joseph  Walker  to  California  in  1833-34.  He  was  in  the  Willamette 
valley  in  1841,  where  he  purchased  of  Dr.  John  McLoughlin  the  first  lot  sold 
on  the  site  of  Oregon  City.  In  1842  he  guided  the  emigrant  caravan  from 
Fort  Laramie.  His  unfortunate  experience  in  attempting  a  "cut  off  "  with 
a  party  of  emigrants  in  1845  (related  post  by  Palmer),  discredited  his  abilities 
as  a  guide.  At  the  time  of  the  gold  excitement  (1848-49)  he  returned  to  Cali- 
fornia, where  he  made  his  later  home  in  Siskiyou  County. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  'Journal  41 

from  the  lost  cattle,  drove  rapidly  forward  to  this  place. 
As  they  approached  the  village,  the  poor  Indians  were 
seen  running  to  and  fro,  in  great  dismay  —  their  women 
and  children  skulking  about  and  hiding  themselves, 
—  while  the  chiefs  came  forward,  greeted  our  party 
kindly,  and  by  signs  offered  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace, 
and  engage  with  them  in  trade.  On  being  charged 
with  the  theft  of  our  cattle,  they  firmly  asserted  their 
innocence ;  and  such  was  their  conduct,  that  the  majority 
of  the  party  was  convinced  they  had  been  wrongfully 
accused:  but  one  poor  fellow,  who  had  just  returned  to 
the  village,  and  manifested  great  alarm  upon  seeing 
so  many  "pale  faces,"  was  taken;  and  failing  to  prove 
his  innocence,  was  hurried  away  to  camp  and  placed 
under  guard.  Meanwhile,  after  the  greater  part  of 
the  company  had  returned  to  camp,  and  the  captain 
had  assembled  the  judges,  the  prisoner  was  arraigned 
at  the  bar  for  trial,  and  the  solemn  interrogatory,  "Are 
you  guilty  or  not  guilty,"  was  propounded  to  him:  but 
to  this,  his  only  answer  was  —  a  grunt,  the  import  of 
which  the  honorable  court  not  being  able  clearly  to 
comprehend,  his  trial  was  formally  commenced  and 
duly  carried  through.  The  evidence  brought  forward 
against  him  not  being  sufficient  to  sustain  the  charge, 
he  was  fully  acquitted;  and,  when  released,  "split" 
for  his  wigwam  in  the  village.  After  the  excitement 
had  in  some  degree  subsided,  and  the  affair  was  calmly 
considered,  it  was  believed  by  most  of  us  that  the  false 
alarm  in  regard  to  the  Indians  had  been  raised  with 
the  design  of  breaking  up  or  postponing  the  election. 
If  such  was  the  design,  it  succeeded  admirably. 
May  14.  Immediately  after  breakfast,  the  camp  was 


42  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

assembled,  and  proceeded  to  the  election  of  officers  and 
the  business  of  organization.  The  election  resulted  in  the 
choice  of  S.  L.  Meek,  as  pilot,  and  Doctor  P.  Welch,17 
formerly  of  Indiana,  as  captain,  with  a  host  of  subalterns ; 
such  as  lieutenants,  judges,  sergeants,  &c. 

After  these  matters  had  been  disposed  of,  we  harnessed 
up  our  teams  and  traveled  about  five  miles,  and  encamped 
with  Big  Soldier  creek  on  our  right  hand  and  Caw  river 
on  our  left. 

The  next  day  we  were  delayed  in  crossing  Big  Soldier 
creek,  on  account  of  the  steepness  of  its  banks;  and 
advanced  only  twelve  miles  through  a  prairie  country. 
Here  [17]  sixteen  wagons  separated  from  us,  and  we 
were  joined  by  fifteen  others. 

May  17.  We  traveled  eighteen  miles  over  a  high, 
rolling  prairie,  and  encamped  on  the  banks  of  Little 
Vermilion  creek,  in  sight  of  a  Caw  village.  The  princi- 
pal chief  resides  at  this  village.18  Our  camp  here  replen- 
ished their  stores;  and,  although  these  Indians  may  be 
a  set  of  beggarly  thieves,  they  conducted  themselves 
honorably  hi  their  dealings  with  us;  in  view  of  which 
we  raised  for  their  benefit  a  contribution  of  tobacco, 
powder,  lead,  &c.,  and  received  in  return  many  good 
wishes  for  a  pleasant  and  successful  journey.  After 

17  Little  is  known  of  Dr.  Presley  Welch  save  as  related  by  Palmer  —  that  he 
was  from  Indiana,  was  chosen  captain  of  the  caravan,  and  was  without  authority 
after  the  formation  of  the  independent  companies.  H.  H.  Bancroft  (History 
oj  Oregon,  i,  p.  612)  notes  that  he  was  candidate  for  governor  in  1846. 
George  H.  Himes,  assistant  secretary  of  the  Oregon  Historical  Society,  writes  to 
the  Editor:  "  In  all  my  efforts  to  make  a  roll  of  Pioneers  by  years,  I  have  not 
so  far  been  able  to  find  anything  about  Dr.  Welch;  hence  I  conclude  he  either 
left  the  country  at  an  early  date  or  died  soon  after  his  arrival  here." —  ED. 

1S  For  this  stream  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  149,  note  20.  Townsend  also 
describes  the  same  Kansa  village,  ibid.,  pp.  148,  149. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  43 

leaving  them,  we  traveled  about  twelve  miles  over  a 
fertile  prairie.  In  the  evening,  after  we  had  encamped 
and  taken  our  supper,  a  wedding  was  attended  to  with 
peculiar  interest. 

May  19.  This  day  our  camp  did  not  rise.  A  grow- 
ing spirit  of  dissatisfaction  had  prevailed  since  the 
election;  there  were  a  great  number  of  disappointed 
candidates,  who  were  unwilling  to  submit  to  the  will 
of  the  majority;  and  to  such  a  degree  had  a  disorderly 
spirit  been  manifested,  that  it  was  deemed  expedient 
to  divide  the  company.  Accordingly,  it  was  mutually 
agreed  upon,  to  form,  from  the  whole  body,  three  com- 
panies; and  that,  while  each  company  should  select 
its  own  officers  and  manage  its  internal  affairs,  the 
pilot,  and  Capt.  Welsh,  who  had  been  elected  by  the 
whole  company,  should  retain  their  posts,  and  travel 
with  the  company  in  advance.  It  was  also  arranged, 
that  each  company  should  take  its  turn  in  traveling  in 
advance,  for  a  week  at  a  time.  A  proposition  was  then 
made  and  acceded  to,  which  provided  that  a  collection 
of  funds,  with  which  to  pay  the  pilot,  should  be  made 
previous  to  the  separation,  and  placed  in  the  hands 
of  some  person  to  be  chosen  by  the  whole,  as  treasurer, 
who  should  give  bonds,  with  approved  security,  for 
the  fulfilment  of  his  duty. 

A  treasurer  was  accordingly  chosen,  who  after  giving 
the  necessary  bond,  collected  about  one  hundred  and 
ninety  dollars  of  the  money  promised;  some  refused 
to  pay,  and  others  had  no  money  in  their  possession. 
All  these  and  similar  matters  having  been  satisfactorily 
arranged,  the  separation  took  place,  and  the  companies 
proceeded  to  the  election  of  the  necessary  officers.  The 


44  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

company  to  which  I  had  attached  myself,  consisting 
of  thirty  wagons,  insisted  that  I  should  officiate  as  their 
captain,  and  with  some  reluctance  I  consented.  We 
dispensed  with  many  of  the  offices  and  formalities 
which  [18]  existed  in  the  former  company,  and  after 
adopting  certain  regulations  respecting  the  government 
of  the  company,  and  settling  other  necessary  prelimi- 
naries, we  retired  to  rest  for  the  night. 

May  20.  We  have  this  day  traveled  fifteen  miles, 
through  a  prairie  country,  with  occasionally  a  small 
grove  along  the  streams. 

May  22.  Yesterday  after  moving  thirteen  miles 
we  crossed  Big  Vermilion,  and  encamped  a  mile  beyond 
its  west  bank;  we  found  a  limestone  country,  quite 
hilly,  indeed  almost  mountainous.  To-day  we  have 
crossed  Bee,  and  Big  Blue  creeks;  the  latter  stream 
is  lined  with  oak,  walnut,  and  hickory.19  We  encamped 
two  and  a  half  miles  west  of  it.  During  the  night  it 
rained  very  hard.  Our  cattle  became  frightened  and 
all  ran  away. 

May  23.  Made  to-day  but  eight  miles.  Our  pilot 
notified  us  that  this  would  be  our  last  opportunity  to 
procure  timber  for  axle  trees,  wagon  tongues,  &c.,  and 
we  provided  a  supply  of  this  important  material.  Our 
cattle  were  all  found. 

May  25.  Early  this  morning  we  were  passed  by 
Col.  Kearney  and  his  party  of  dragoons,  numbering 
about  three  hundred.  They  have  with  them  nineteen 

19  The  Big  Vermillion  is  now  known  as  the  Black  Vennillion,  an  eastern 
tributary  of  the  Big  Blue,  in  Marshall  County,  Kansas.  The  usual  crossing 
was  near  the  site  of  the  present  town  of  Bigelow.  Bee  Creek  is  a  small  stream 
in  Marshall  County.  The  Big  Blue  is  noted  in  our  volume  xiv,  p.  185,  note 
154;  also  in  our  volume  xxi,  p.  142,  note  15. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  45 

wagons  drawn  by  mules,  and  drive  fifty  head  of  cattle 
and  twenty-five  head  of  sheep.  They  go  to  the  South 
Pass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.20  Our  travel  of  to-day 
and  yesterday  is  thirty-two  miles,  during  which  we 
have  crossed  several  small  streams,  skirted  by  trees. 
The  soil  looks  fertile. 

May  26.  Overtook  Capt.  Welsh's  company  to-day. 
We  passed  twelve  miles  through  a  rolling  prairie  region, 
and  encamped  on  Little  Sandy. 

May  27.  As  it  was  now  the  turn  of  our  company 
to  travel  in  advance,  we  were  joined  by  Capt.  Welsh 
and  our  pilot.  The  country  is  of  the  same  character 
with  that  we  passed  through  on  yesterday,  and  is  highly 
adapted  to  the  purpose  of  settlement,  having  a  good 
soil,  and  streams  well  lined  with  timber. 

May  31.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  28th  we  struck 
the  Republican  fork  of  Blue  River,"  along  which  for 

20  For  a  biographical  note  on  Colonel  Stephen  W.  Kearny  see  our  volume 
xvii,  p.  12,  note  4.     In  the  summer  of  1845  the  general  of  the  army  ordered 
Kearny  to   take   five  companies  of  dragoons  and  proceed  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth  via  the  Oregon  Trail  to  South  Pass,  returning  by  way  of  the  Arkansas 
and  the  Santa  Fe"  Trail.    The  object  was  both  to  impress  the  Indians,  and  to 
report  upon  the  feasibility  of  an  advanced  military  post  near  Fort  Laramie. 
Leaving  their  encampment  May  18,  they  were  upon  the  Little  Blue  by  the 
twenty-sixth  of  the  month.     See  report  in  Senate  Docs.,  29  Cong.,  i  sess.,  i, 
pp.  210-213.     This  was  the  first  regular  military  campaign  into  the  land  of  the 
Great  West,  and  strongly  impressed  the  Indians  of  that  region.     Kearny's 
recommendations  were  against  the  establishment  of  a  post  because  of  the 
difficulty  of  supplying  it  —  advising  instead,  a  biennial  or  triennial  campaign 
similar  to  his  own. —  ED. 

21  By  the  "Republican  Fork  of  Blue  River"  Palmer  intends  the  stream 
known  usually  as  the  Little  Blue.     Republican  River,  farther  west,  is  an  im- 
portant branch  of  Kansas  River,  and  for  a  portion  of  its  course  nearly  paral- 
lels the  Little  Blue.    The  Oregon  Trail,  however,  followed  the  latter  stream, 
and  the  distances  given  by  Palmer  preclude  the  possibility  of  a  detour  via 
the  Republican  River.     The  name  of  this  stream,  as  well  as  that  applied   by 
Palmer  to  the  Little  Blue,  is  derived  from  the  tribe  of  Republican   Pawnee, 
for  which  see  our  volume  riv,  p.  233,  note  179. —  ED. 


46  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

fifty  miles  lay  the  route  we  were  traveling.  Its  banks 
afford  oak,  ash  and  hickory,  and  often  open  out  into 
wide  and  fertile  bottoms.  Here  and  there  we  observed 
cotton  wood  and  willow.  The  pea  vine  grows  wild, 
in  great  abundance  on  the  bottoms.  The  pea  is  smaller 
than  our  common  garden  pea  and  afforded  us  a  [19] 
pleasant  vegetable.  We  saw  also  a  few  wild  turkies. 
To-day  we  reached  a  point  where  a  trail  turns  from  this 
stream,  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  to  the  Platte 
or  Nebraska  river.  We  kept  the  left  hand  route,  and 
some  nine  or  ten  miles  beyond  this  trail,  we  made  our 
last  encampment  on  the  Republican  Fork. 

June  i.  We  set  out  at  the  usual  hour  and  crossed 
over  the  country  to  Platte  river;  having  measured  the 
road  with  the  chain,  we  ascertained  the  distance  to  be 
eighteen  and  a  half  miles,  from  our  encampment  of  last 
night.  It  is  all  a  rolling  prairie ;  and  in  one  spot,  we 
found  in  pools  a  little  standing  water.  Some  two  miles 
before  reaching  the  Platte  bottom  the  prairie  is  extremely 
rough;  and  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  up  and  down 
that  river,  it  is  quite  sandy.22  We  encamped  near  a 
marshy  spot,  occasioned  by  the  overflow  of  the  river, 
opposite  an  island  covered  with  timber,  to  which  we 
were  obliged  to  go  through  the  shallows  of  the  river 
for  fuel,  as  the  main  land  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees. 
Near  us  the  Platte  bottom  is  three  and  a  half  miles 


22  There  were  two  routes  across  from  the  head  of  Little  Blue  River  to  the 
Platte.  The  first  left  the  trail  near  the  site  of  Leroy,  Nebraska,  and  came  in 
to  the  Platte  about  twenty  miles  below  Grand  Island;  the  second  continued 
farther  west,  about  ten  miles,  then  crossed  northwest  to  the  Platte  near  the 
site  of  Fort  Kearney.  See  military  map  of  Nebraska  and  Dakota,  prepared 
in  1855-57  by  Lieutenant  G.  K.  Warren  of  the  topographical  engineer  corps. 
For  the  Platte  River  see  our  volume  riv,  p.  219,  note  170. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  47 

wide,  covered  with  excellent  grass,  which  our  cattle 
ate  greedily,  being  attracted  by  a  salt  like  substance 
which  covers  the  grass  and  lies  sprinkled  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  We  observed  large  herds  of  antelope 
in  our  travel  of  to-day.  In  the  evening  it  rained  very 
hard. 

June  2.  Our  week  of  advance  traveling  being  expired, 
we  resolved  to  make  a  short  drive,  select  a  suitable  spot, 
and  lay  by  for  washing.  We  accordingly  encamped 
about  six'  miles  up  Platte  river.  As  I  had  been  elected 
captain  but  for  two  weeks,  and  my  term  was  now  expired, 
a  new  election  was  held,  which  resulted  in  the  choice  of 
the  same  person.  The  captain,  Welsh,  who  was  origi- 
nally elected  by  all  the  companies,  had  been  with  us  one 
week,  and  some  dissatisfaction  was  felt,  by  our  company, 
at  the  degree  of  authority  he  seemed  disposed  to  exer- 
cise. We  found,  too,  that  it  was  bad  policy  to  require 
the  several  companies  to  wait  for  each  other;  —  our 
supply  of  provision  was  considered  barely  sufficient 
for  the  journey,  and  it  behooved  us  [to]  make  the  best 
use  of  our  time.  At  present  one  of  the  companies  was 
supposed  to  be  two  or  three  days  travel  in  the  rear. 
We  adopted  a  resolution  desiring  the  several  companies 
to  abandon  the  arrangement  that  required  each  to  delay 
for  the  others;  and  that  each  company  should  have  the 
use  of  the  pilot  according  to  its  turn.  Our  proposition 
was  not,  for  the  present,  accepted  by  the  other  companies. 
While  we  were  at  our  washing  encampment  one  [20] 
of  the  companies  passed  us,  the  other  still  remaining  in 
the  rear. 

June  3.  Having  traveled  about  eight  miles,  we  halted 
at  noon,  making  short  drives,  to  enable  the  rear  com- 


48  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

pany  to  join  us.  We  have  no  tidings  of  it  as  yet.  We 
met  seventy-five  or  eighty  Pawnee  Indians  returning 
from  their  spring  hunt.23 

June  5.  Yesterday  we  traveled  about  twelve  miles, 
passing  captain  Stephens,  with  his  advance  company. 
To-day  we  traveled  about  the  same  distance,  suffering 
Stephens'  company  to  pass  us.24  At  noon  they  were 
delayed  by  the  breaking  of  an  axletree  of  one  of  their 
wagons,  and  we  again  passed  them,  greatly  to  their 
offence.  They  refused  to  accede  to  our  terms,  and  we 
determined  to  act  on  our  own  responsibility.  We 
therefore  dissolved  our  connection  with  the  other  com- 
panies, and  thenceforward  acted  independently  of  them. 

June  6.  We  advanced  twenty  miles  to-day.  We 
find  a  good  road,  but  an  utter  absence  of  ordinary  fuel. 
We  are  compelled  to  substitute  for  it  buffalo  dung,  which 
burns  freely. 

June  7.  We  find  in  our  sixteen  miles  travel  to-day 
that  the  grass  is  very  poor  in  the  Platte  bottoms,  hav- 
ing been  devoured  by  the  buffalo  herds.  These  bottoms 
are  from  two  to  four  miles  in  width,  and  are  intersected, 
at  every  variety  of  interval,  by  paths  made  by  the  buf- 
faloes, from  the  bluffs  to  the  river.  These  paths  are 
remarkable  in  their  appearance,  being  about  fifteen 
inches  wide,  and  four  inches  deep,  and  worn  into  the 
soil  as  smoothly  as  they  could  be  cut  with  a  spade. 

We  formed  our  encampment  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
with  three  emigrating  companies  within  as  many 

M  For  this  tribe,  see  our  volume  vi,  p.  61,  note  17;  also  our  volume  xv,  pp. 
143-165;  and  xxviii,  p.  149,  note  94. —  ED. 

24  Thomas  Fulton  Stephens  joined  the  Oregon  caravan  from  Illinois.  The 
year  after  his  arrival  in  Oregon  he  took  up  donation  land  near  the  site  of  Port- 
land and  erected  thereon  a  saw-mill.  His  death  occurred  in  1884. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  49 

miles  of  us;  two  above  and  one  below;  one  of  fifty- 
two  wagons,  one  of  thirteen,  and  one  of  forty-three 
—  ours  having  thirty-seven.  We  find  our  cattle  grow- 
ing lame,  and  most  of  the  company  are  occupied  in 
attempting  to  remedy  the  lameness.  The  prairie  hav- 
ing been  burnt,  dry,  sharp  stubs  of  clotted  grass  remain, 
which  are  very  hard,  and  wear  and  irritate  the  feet  of 
the  cattle.  The  foot  becomes  dry  and  feverish,  and 
cracks  in  the  opening  of  the  hoof.  In  this  opening 
the  rough  blades  of  grass  and  dirt  collect,  and  the  foot 
generally  festers,  and  swells  very  much.  Our  mode 
of  treating  it  was,  to  wash  the  foot  with  strong  soap 
suds,  scrape  or  cut  away  all  the  diseased  flesh,  and 
then  pour  boiling  pitch  or  tar  upon  the  sore.  If  applied 
early  this  remedy  will  cure.  Should  the  heel  become 
worn  out,  apply  tar  or  pitch,  and  singe  with  a  hot  iron. 
At  our  encampment  to-night  we  have  abundance  of 
wood  for  fuel. 

[21]  June  8.  We  advanced  to-day  about  twelve 
miles.  The  bottom  near  our  camp  is  narrow,  but 
abounds  in  timber,  being  covered  with  ash;  it,  how- 
ever, affords  poor  grazing.  So  far  as  we  have  traveled 
along  the  Platte,  we  find  numerous  islands  in  the  river, 
and  some  of  them  quite  large.  In  the  evening  a  young 
man,  named  Foster,25  was  wounded  by  the  accidental 
discharge  of  a  gun.  The  loaded  weapon,  from  which 
its  owner  had  neglected  to  remove  the  cap,  was  placed 
at  the  tail  of  a  wagon;  as  some  one  was  taking  out  a 
tent-cloth,  the  gun  was  knocked  down,  and  went  off. 
The  ball  passed  through  a  spoke  of  the  wagon-wheel, 

*  John  Foster  was  born  in  Ohio  in  1822,  removed  to  Missouri  in  early 
life,  and  in  1897  was  still  residing  in  Oregon. —  ED. 


50  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

struck  the  felloe,  and  glanced.  Foster  was  walking 
some  two  rods  from  the  wagon,  when  the  half  spent 
ball  struck  him  in  the  back,  near  the  spine;  and,  enter- 
ing between  the  skin  and  the  ribs,  came  out  about  three 
inches  from  where  it  entered,  making  merely  a  flesh 
wound.  A  small  fragment  of  the  ball  had  lodged  in 
his  arm. 

June  9.  The  morning  is  rainy.  To-day  we  passed 
Stephens'  company,  which  passed  us  on  yesterday. 
Our  dissensions  are  all  healed;  and  they  have  decided 
to  act  upon  our  plan. 

June  10.  Yesterday  we  traveled  fifteen  miles;  to-day 
the  same  distance.  We  find  the  grazing  continues 
poor.  In  getting  to  our  encampment,  we  passed  through 
a  large  dog  town.  These  singular  communities  may 
be  seen  often,  along  the  banks  of  the  Platte,  occupy- 
ing various  areas,  from  one  to  five  hundred  acres.  The 
one  in  question  covered  some  two  hundred  or  three 
hundred  acres.  The  prairie-dog  is  something  larger 
than  a  common  sized  gray  squirrel,  of  a  dun  color; 
the  head  resembles  that  of  a  bull  dog:  the  tail  is  about 
three  inches  in  length.  Their  food  is  prairie  grass. 
Like  rabbits,  they  burrow  in  the  ground,  throwing 
out  heaps  of  earth,  and  often  large  stones,  which  remain 
at  the  mouth  of  their  holes.  The  entrance  to  their 
burrows  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  runs 
obliquely  into  the  earth  about  three  feet,  when  the 
holes  ramify  in  every  direction  and  connect  with  each 
other  on  every  side.  Some  kind  of  police  seems  to  be 
observed  among  them;  for  at  the  approach  of  man, 
one  of  the  dogs  will  run  to  the  entrance  of  a  burrow, 
and,  squatting  down,  utter  a  shrill  bark.  At  once, 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  51 

the  smaller  part  of  the  community  will  retreat  to  their 
holes,  while  numbers  of  the  larger  dogs  will  squat,  like 
the  first,  at  their  doors,  and  unite  in  the  barking.  A 
near  approach  drives  them  all  under  ground.  It  is 
singular,  [22]  but  true,  that  the  little  screech-owl  and 
the  rattlesnake  keep  them  company  in  their  burrows.  I 
have  frequently  seen  the  owls,  but  not  the  snake,  with 
them.  The  mountaineers,  however,  inform  me,  that 
they  often  catch  all  three  in  the  same  hole.  The  dog 
is  eaten  by  the  Indians,  with  quite  a  relish;  and  often 
by  the  mountaineers.  I  am  not  prepared  to  speak  of 
its  qualities  as  an  article  of  food. 

During  the  night,  a  mule,  belonging  to  a  Mr.  Risley,3' 
of  our  company,  broke  from  its  tether,  and  in  attempt- 
ing to  secure  it,  its  owner  was  repeatedly  shot  at  by  the 
guard;  but,  fortunately,  was  not  hit.  He  had  run 
from  his  tent  without  having  been  perceived  by  the 
guard,  and  was  crawling  over  the  ground,  endeavoring 
to  seize  the  trail  rope,  which  was  tied  to  his  mule's  neck. 
The  guard  mistook  him  for  an  Indian,  trying  to  steal 
horses,  and  called  to  him  several  times;  but  a  high  wind 
blowing  he  did  not  hear.  The  guard  leveled  and  fired, 
but  his  gun  did  not  go  off.  Another  guard,  standing 
near,  presented  his  piece  and  fired;  the  cap  burst,  with- 
out discharging  the  load.  The  first  guard,  by  this  time 
prepared,  fired  a  second  time,  without  effect.  By  this 


"Orville  Risley  was  born  in  New  York  state  about  1807.  In  early  life  he 
removed  to  Ohio,  where  he  joined  the  Oregon  emigrants  of  1845.  Upon 
reaching  the  Willamette  valley  he  took  up  land  in  Clackamas  County,  and 
later  was  a  merchant  at  Lafayette.  In  his  last  years  he  resided  principally 
at  Portland,  where  he  was  known  as  Judge  Risley,  from  having  once  held  the 
office  of  justice  of  the  peace.  His  death  occurred  at  his  Clackamas  farm  in 
1884.—  ED. 


52  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

time  the  camp  was  roused,  and  nearly  all  seized  their 
fire-arms,  when  we  discovered  that  the  supposed  Indian 
was  one  of  our  own  party.  We  regarded  it  as  provi- 
dential that  the  man  escaped,  as  the  guard  was  a  good 
shot,  and  his  mark  was  not  more  than  eighty  yards 
distant.  This  incident  made  us  somewhat  more  cautious 
about  leaving  the  camp,  without  notifying  the  guard. 

June  ii.  To-day  we  traveled  ten  or  twelve  miles. 
Six  miles  brought  us  to  the  lower  crossing  of  Platte 
river,  which  is  five  or  six  miles  above  the  forks,  and 
where  the  high  ground  commences  between  the  two 
streams.  There  is  a  trail  which  turns  over  the  bluff 
to  the  left;  we  however  took  the  right,  and  crossed  the 
river.27  The  south  fork  is  at  this  place  about  one  fourth 
of  a  mile  wide,  and  from  one  to  three  feet  deep,  with  a 
sartdy  bottom,  which  made  the  fording  so  heavy  that 
we  were  compelled  to  double  teams.  The  water  through 
the  day  is  warm;  but  as  the  nights  are  cool,  it  is  quite 
cool  enough  in  the  morning.  On  the  west  bank  of  the 
river  was  encamped  Brown's  company,  which  passed 
us  whilst  we  were  organizing  at  Caw  River.  We  passed 
them,  and  proceeded  along  the  west  side  of  the  south 
fork,  and  encamped  on  the  river  bank.  At  night  our 
hunters  brought  in  some  buffalo  meat. 

June  13.  Yesterday  we  followed  the  river  about 
thirteen  miles,  and  encamped  on  its  bank,  where  the 
road  between  the  [23]  two  forks  strikes  across  the  ridge 
toward  the  North  fork.  To-day  we  have  followed 
that  route:  directly  across,  the  distance  does  not  exceed 
four  miles:  but  the  road  runs  obliquely  between  the 
two  streams,  and  reaches  the  North  fork  about  nine 

27  For  the  fords  of  the  South  Platte  see  our  volume  rri,  p.  173,  note  27. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  53 

miles  from  our  last  camp.  We  found  quite  a  hill  to 
descend,  as  the  road  runs  up  the  bottom  a  half  mile 
and  then  ascends  the  bluff.  Emigrants  should  keep 
the  bluff  sixteen  or  seventeen  miles.  We  descended 
a  ravine  and  rested  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 

June  15.  Yesterday  we  advanced  eight  miles,  and 
halted  to  wash  and  rest  our  teams.  We  have  remained 
all  this  day  in  camp.  At  daylight  a  herd  of  buffalo 
approached  near  the  camp;  they  were  crossing  the  river, 
but  as  soon  as  they  caught  the  scent,  they  retreated  to 
the  other  side.  It  was  a  laughable  sight  to  see  them 
running  in  the  water.  Some  of  our  men  having  been 
out  with  their  guns,  returned  at  noon  overloaded  with 
buffalo  meat.  We  then  commenced  jerking  it.  This 
is  a  process  resorted  to  for  want  of  time  or  means  to 
cure  meat  by  salting.  The  meat  is  sliced  thin,  end 
a  scaffold  prepared,  by  setting  forks  in  the  ground r 
about  three  feet  high,  and  laying  small  poles  or  sticks 
crosswise  upon  them.  The  meat  is  laid  upon  those 
pieces,  and  a  slow  fire  built  beneath;  the  heat  and  smoke 
completes  the  process  in  half  a  day;  and  with  an  occa- 
sional sunning  the  meat  will  keep  for  months. 

An  unoccupied  spectator,  who  could  have  beheld 
our  camp  to-day,  would  think  it  a  singular  spectacle. 
The  hunters  returning  with  the  spoil;  some  erecting 
scaffolds,  and  others  drying  the  meat.  Of  the  women, 
some  were  washing,  some  ironing,  some  baking.  At  two 
of  the  tents  the  fiddle  was  employed  in  uttering  its 
unaccustomed  voice  among  the  solitudes  of  the  Platte; 
at  one  tent  I  heard  singing;  at  others  the  occupants 
were  engaged  in  reading,  some  the  Bible,  others  poring 
over  novels.  While  all  this  was  going  on,  that  nothing 


54  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

might  be  wanting  to  complete  the  harmony  of  the  scene, 
a  Campbellite  preacher,  named  Foster,  was  reading  a 
hymn,  preparatory  to  religious  worship.  The  fiddles 
were  silenced,  and  those  who  had  been  occupied  with 
that  amusement,  betook  themselves  to  cards.  Such 
is  but  a  miniature  of  the  great  world  we  had  left  behind 
us,  when  we  crossed  the  line  that  separates  civilized 
man  from  the  wilderness.  But  even  here  the  variety 
of  occupation,  the  active  exercise  of  body  and  mind, 
either  in  labor  or  pleasure,  the  commingling  of  evil  and 
good,  show  that  the  likeness  is  a  true  one. 

[24]  June  17.  On  our  travel  of  eight  miles,  yester- 
day, we  found  the  bluffs  quite  high,  often  approaching 
with  their  rocky  fronts  to  the  water's  edge,  and  now 
and  then  a  cedar  nodding  at  the  top.  Our  camp,  last 
night,  was  in  a  cedar  and  ash  grove,  with  a  high,  frown- 
ing bluff  overhanging  us;  but  a  wide  bottom,  with  fine 
grass  around  us,  and  near  at  hand  an  excellent  spring. 
To-day  five  miles  over  the  ridge  brought  us  to  Ash 
Hollow.  Here  the  trail,  which  follows  the  east  side 
of  the  South  fork  of  Platte,  from  where  we  crossed  it, 
connects  with  this  trail.28  The  road  then  turns  down 
Ash  Hollow  to  the  river;  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
latter  is  a  fine  spring,  and  around  it  wood  and  grass  in 
abundance.  Our  road,  to-day,  has  been  very  sandy. 
The  bluffs  are  generally  rocky,  at  times  presenting 
perpendicular  cliffs  of  three  hundred  feet  high.  We 
passed  two  companies,  both  of  which  we  had  before 
passed ;  but  whilst  we  were  lying  by  on  the  North  fork, 


28  Ash  Hollow,  called  by  Fr&nont  Coulee  des  Frgnes,  was  a  well  known 
landmark,  where  the  Oregon  Trail  crossed  the  North  Platte.  It  is  now  known 
as  Ash  Creek,  in  Deuel  County,  Nebraska. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  55 

they  had  traveled  up  the  South  fork  and  descended 
Ash  Hollow. 

June  1 8.  We  met  a  company  of  mountaineers  from 
Fort  Laramie,  who  had  started  for  the  settlements 
early  in  the  season,  with  flat-boats  loaded  with  buffalo 
robes,  and  other  articles  of  Indian  traffic.  The  river 
became  so  low,  that  they  were  obliged  to  lay  by;  part 
of  the  company  had  returned  to  the  fort  for  teams; 
others  were  at  the  boat  landing,  while  fifteen  of  the 
party  were  footing  their  way  to  the  States.  They  were 
a  jolly  set  of  fellows.  Four  wagons  joined  us  from 
one  of  the  other  divisions,  and  among  them  was  John 
Nelson,  with  his  family,  formerly  of  Franklin  county, 
Indiana.  We  traveled  fifteen  miles,  passing  Captain 
Smith's  company. 

June  19.  Five  miles,  to-day,  brought  us  to  Spring 
creek;  eleven  miles  further  to  another  creek,  the  name 
of  which  I  could  not  ascertain;  there  we  encamped, 
opposite  the  Solitary  Tower.29  This  singular  natural 
object  is  a  stupendous  pile  of  sand  and  clay,  so  cemented 
as  to  resemble  stone,  but  which  crumbles  away  at  the 
slightest  touch.  I  conceive  it  is  about  seven  miles 
distant  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek;  though  it  appears 
to  be  not  more  than  three.  The  height  of  this  tower 
is  somewhere  between  six  hundred  and  eight  hundred 
feet  from  the  level  of  the  river.  Viewed  from  the  road, 
the  beholder  might  easily  imagine  he  was  gazing  upon 

28  Spring  Creek  was  probably  the  one  now  known  as  Rush,  formed  by 
springs  issuing  in  Cheyenne  County,  Nebraska.  The  second  creek  was  that 
now  entitled  Pumpkinseed.  In  the  days  of  trail-travelling  it  was  called 
Gonneville,  from  a  trapper  who  had  been  killed  thereon.  The  Solitary 
Tower  is  on  its  bank  —  a  huge  mass  of  indurated  clay,  more  frequently 
known  as  the  Court  House  or  the  Castle. —  ED. 


56  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

some  ancient  structure  of  the  old  world.  A  nearer 
approach  dispels  the  illusion,  and  it  looks,  as  it  is,  rough 
and  unseemly.  It  can  be  ascended,  at  its  north  side, 
by  clambering  up  the  rock;  holes  having  been  cut  in 
its  face  for  that  purpose.  The  second,  or  [25]  main 
bench,  can  be  ascended  with  greater  ease  at  an  open- 
ing on  the  south  side,  where  the  water  has  washed  out  a 
crevice  large  enough  to  admit  the  body;  so  that  by 
pushing  against  the  sides  of  the  crevice  one  can  force 
himself  upward  fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  which  places 
the  adventurer  on  the  slope  of  the  second  bench.  Pass- 
ing round  the  eastern  point  of  the  tower,  the  ascent 
may  be  continued  up  its  north  face.  A  stream  of  water 
runs  along  the  north-eastern  side,  some  twenty  rods 
distant  from  the  tower;  and  deep  ravines  are  cut  out 
by  the  washing  of  the  water  from  the  tower  to  the  creek. 
Near  by  stands  another  pile  of  materials,  similar  to 
that  composing  the  tower,  but  neither  so  large  nor  so 
high.  The  bluffs  in  this  vicinity  appear  to  be  of  the 
same  material.  Between  this  tower  and  the  river  stretches 
out  a  rolling  plain,  barren  and  desolate  enough. 

June  20.  Traveling  fourteen  miles,  we  halted  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Chimney  Rock.  This  is  a  sharp- 
pointed  rock,  of  much  the  same  material  as  the  Solitary 
Tower,  standing  at  the  base  of  the  bluff,  and  four  or 
five  miles  from  the  road.  It  is  visible  at  a  distance  of 
thirty  miles,  and  has  the  unpoetical  appearance  of  a 
hay-stack,  with  a  pole  running  far  above  its  top.30 

June   24.    Since   the   2oth  we   have   traveled   about 


30  For  a  note  on  Chimney  Rock  consult  De  Smet's  Letters  in  our  volume 
xxvii,  p.  219,  note  89.  See  also  engraving  in  Fremont's  "Exploring  Tour," 
Senate  Docs.,  28  Cong.,  2  sess.,  174,  p.  38. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  57 

sixty-two  miles,  and  are  now  at  Fort  Laramie;  making 
our  whole  travel  from  Independence  about  six  hundred 
and  thirty  miles.  On  the  22d  we  passed  over  Scott's 
Bluffs,  where  we  found  a  good  spring,  and  abundance 
of  wood  and  grass.  A  melancholy  tradition  accounts 
for  the  name  of  this  spot.  A  party  who  had  been 
trading  with  the  Indians  were  returning  to  the  States 
and  encountering  a  band  of  hostile  savages,  were 
robbed  of  their  peltries  and  food.  As  they  struggled 
homeward,  one  of  the  number,  named  Scott,  fell  sick 
and  could  not  travel.  The  others  remained  with  him, 
until  the  sufferer,  despairing  of  ever  beholding  his  home, 
prevailed  on  his  companions  to  abandon  him.  They 
left  him  alone  in  the  wilderness,  several  miles  from 
this  spot.  Here  human  bones  were  afterwards  found; 
and, ^  supposing  he  had  crawled  here  and  died,  the 
subsequent  travelers  have  given  his  name  to  the 
neighboring  bluff.31 

June  25.  Our  camp  is  stationary  to-day;  part  of 
the  emigrants  are  shoeing  their  horses  and  oxen;  others 
are  trading  at  the  fort  and  with  the  Indians.  Flour, 
sugar,  coffee,  tea,  tobacco,  powder  and  lead,  sell  readily, 
at  high  prices.  In  the  [26]  afternoon  we  gave  the 
Indians  a  feast,  and  held  a  long  talk  with  them.  Each 
family,  as  they  could  best  spare  it,  contributed  a  portion 
of  bread,  meat,  coffee  or  sugar,  which  being  cooked, 
a  table  was  set  by  spreading  buffalo  skins  upon  the 
ground,  and  arranging  the  provisions  upon  them. 

31  This  story  is  told  with  variations  by  many  writers,  notably  Washington 
Irving  in  his  Rocky  Mountains  (Philadelphia,  1837),  i,  pp.  45,  46.  The  event 
appears  to  have  occurred  about  1830.  The  range  of  bluffs,  about  nine  hundred 
yards  in  length,  still  retains  the  name.  It  is  situated  on  the  western  borders 
of  Nebraska,  in  a  county  of  the  same  name. —  ED. 


58  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

Around  this  attractive  board,  the  Indian  chiefs  and 
their  principal  men  seated  themselves,  occupying  one 
fourth  of  the  circle;  the  remainder  of  the  male  Indians 
made  out  the  semi-circle;  the  rest  of  the  circle  was 
completed  by  the  whites.  The  squaws  and  younger 
Indians  formed  an  outer  semi-circular  row  immediately 
behind  their  dusky  lords  and  fathers.  Two  stout  young 
warriors  were  now  designated  as  waiters,  and  all  the 
preparations  being  completed,  the  Indian  chiefs  and 
principal  men  shook  hands,  and  at  a  signal  the  white 
chief  performed  the  same  ceremony,  commencing  with 
the  principal  chief,  and  saluting  him  and  those  of  his 
followers  who  composed  the  first  division  of  the  circle; 
the  others  being  considered  inferiors,  were  not  thus  noticed. 
The  talk  preceded  the  dinner.  A  trader  acted  as 
interpreter.  The  chief  informed  us,  that  "a  long  while 
ago  some  white  chiefs  passed  up  the  Missouri,  through 
his  country,  saying  they  were  the  red  man's  friends, 
and  that  as  the  red  man  found  them,  so  would  he  find 
all  the  other  pale  faces.  This  country  belongs  to  the  red 
man,  but  his  white  brethren  travels  through,  shooting 
the  game  and  scaring  it  away.  Thus  the  Indian  loses 
all  that  he  depends  upon  to  support  his  wives  and  chil- 
dren. The  children  of  the  red  man  cry  for  food,  but 
there  is  no  food.  But  on  the  other  hand,  the  Indian 

profits  by  the  trade  with  the  white  man.  He  was  glad 
i  j 

to  see  us  and  meet  us  as  friends.  It  was  the  custom 
when  the  pale  faces  passed  through  his  country,  to  make 
presents  to  the  Indians  of  powder,  lead,  &c.  His 
tribe  was  very  numerous,  but  the  most  of  the  people 
had  gone  to  the  mountains  to  hunt.  Before  the  white 
man  came,  the  game  was  tame,  and  easily  caught,  with 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  59 

the  bow  and  arrow.  Now  the  white  man  has  frightened 
it,  and  the  red  man  must  go  to  the  mountains.  The  red 
man  needed  long  guns."  This,  with  much  more  of  the 
like,  made  up  the  talk  of  the  chief,  when  a  reply  from 
our  side  was  expected. 

As  it  devolved  on  me  to  play  the  part  of  the  white 
chief,  I  told  my  red  brethren,  that  we  were  journeying 
to  the  great  waters  of  the  west.  Our  great  father  owned 
a  large  country  there,  and  we  were  going  to  settle  upon 
it.  For  this  purpose  we  brought  with  us  our  wives 
and  little  ones.  We  were  compelled  [27]  to  pass  through 
the  red  man's  country,  but  we  traveled  as  friends,  and 
not  as  enemies.  As  friends  we  feasted  them,  shook 
them  by  the  hand,  and  smoked  with  them  the  pipe  of 
peace.  They  must  know  that  we  came  among  them 
as  friends,  for  we  brought  with  us  our  wives  and  chil- 
dren. The  red  man  does  not  take  his  squaws  into  battle : 
neither  does  the  pale  face.  But  friendly  as  we  felt,  we 
were  ready  for  enemies;  and  if  molested,  we  should 
punish  the  offenders.  Some  of  us  expected  to  return. 
Our  fathers,  our  brothers  and  our  children  were  com- 
ing behind  us,  and  we  hoped  the  red  man  would  treat 
them  kindly.  We  did  not  expect  to  meet  so  many  of 
them;  we  were  glad  to  see  them,  and  to  hear  that  they 
were  the  white  man's  friends.  We  met  peacefully  — 
so  let  us  part.  We  had  set  them  a  feast,  and  were  glad 
to  hold  a  talk  with  them;  but  we  were  not  traders,  and 
had  no  powder  or  ball  to  give  them.  We  were  going 
to  plough  and  to  plant  the  ground,  and  had  nothing 
more  than  we  needed  for  ourselves.  We  told  them  to 
eat  what  was  before  them,  and  be  satisfied;  and  that 
we  had  nothing  more  to  say. 


60  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

The  two  Indian  servants  began  their  services  by 
placing  a  tin  cup  before  each  of  the  guests,  always  wait- 
ing first  upon  the  chiefs;  they  then  distributed  the 
bread  and  cakes,  until  each  person  had  as  much  as 
it  was  supposed  he  would  eat;  the  remainder  being 
delivered  to  two  squaws,  who  in  like  manner  served 
the  squaws  and  children.  The  waiters  then  distributed 
the  meat  and  coffee.  All  was  order.  No  one  touched 
the  food  before  him  until  all  were  served,  when  at  a 
signal  from  the  chief  the  eating  began.  Having  filled 
themselves,  the  Indians  retired,  taking  with  them  all 
that  they  were  unable  to  eat. 

This  is  a  branch  of  the  Sioux  nation,  and  those  liv- 
ing in  this  region  number  near  fifteen  hundred  lodges.82 
They  are  a  healthy,  athletic,  good-looking  set  of  men, 
and  have  according  to  the  Indian  code,  a  respectable 
sense  of  honor,  but  will  steal  when  they  can  do  so  with- 
out fear  of  detection.  On  this  occasion,  however,  we 
missed  nothing  but  a  frying  pan,  which  a  squaw  slipped 
under  her  blanket,  and  made  off  with.  As  it  was  a 
trifling  loss,  we  made  no  complaint  to  the  chief. 

Here  are  two  forts.  Fort  Laramie,  situated  upon 
the  west  side  of  Laramie's  fork,  two  miles  from  Platte 
river,  belongs  to  the  North  American  Fur  Company.33 

32  The  usual  habitat  of  the  Dakota  or  Sioux  was  along  the  Missouri  River 
or  eastward.     The  Teton  Sioux  were  in  the  habit  of  wandering  westward  for 
summer  hunts,  and  this  was  probably  a  band  of  the  Oglala  or  Brule"  Teton, 
who  frequently  were  encountered  in  this  region.     For  the  Teton  subdivisions 
see  our  volume  xxii,  p.  326,  note  287. —  ED. 

33  The  succession  of  trading  posts  on  the  Laramie  branch  of  Platte  River 
is   somewhat  confusing,   due   to   differences  in   nomenclature.     Consult   our 
volume  xxi,  p.  181,  note  30.     The  fort  here  described  appears  to  be  the  new 
Fort  Laramie  (which  must  thus  have  been  built  in  1845,  not  1846).     Alex- 
ander Culbertson,  who  was  at  one  time  in  command  for  the  American  Fur 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  61 

The  fort  is  built  of  adobes.  The  walls  are  about  two 
feet  thick,  and  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  high,  the  tops 
being  picketed  or  spiked.  Posts  are  planted  in  these 
walls,  and  support  the  timber  for  the  roof.  [28]  They 
are  then  covered  with  mud.  In  the  centre  is  an  open 
square,  perhaps  twenty-five  yards  each  way,  along  the 
sides  of  which  are  ranged  the  dwellings,  store  rooms, 
smith  shop,  carpenter's  shop,  offices,  &c.,  all  fronting 
upon  the  inner  area.  There  are  two  principal  entrances; 
one  at  the  north,  the  other  at  the  south.  On  the  eastern 
side  is  an  additional  wall,  connected  at  its  extremities 
with  the  first,  enclosing  ground  for  stables  and  carrell. 
This  enclosure  has  a  gateway  upon  its  south  side,  and 
a  passage  into  the  square  of  the  principal  enclosure. 
At  a  short  distance  from  the  fort  is  a  field  of  about  four 
acres,  in  which,  by  way  of  experiment,  corn  is  planted; 
but  from  its  present  appearance  it  will  probably  prove 
a  failure.  Fort  John  stands  about  a  mile  below  Fort 
Laramie,  and  is  built  of  the  same  material  as  the  latter, 
but  is  not  so  extensive.  Its  present  occupants  are  a 
company  from  St.  Louis.34 

June  26.  This  day,  leaving  Fort  Laramie  behind 
us,  we  advanced  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  into  the 
vast  region  that  was  still  between  us  and  our  destina- 
tion. After  moving  five  miles,  we  found  a  good  spot 
for  a  camp,  and  as  our  teams  still  required  rest,  we 

Company,  says  that  this  post  cost  $10,000,  and  was  the  best  built  stronghold 
in  the  company's  possession.  Fort  John  was  the  old  American  Fur  Company's 
post.  How  a  rival  company  had  secured  it,  seems  a  mystery;  possibly  Palmer 
has  confused  it  with  Fort  Platte,  which  Fremont  notes  in  1842  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Laramie,  belonging  to  Sybille,  Adams,  and  Company.  See  his  "Explor- 
ing Tour  "  (cited  in  note  30,  ante),  p.  35. —  ED. 

34  Since  the  above  was  written,  the  North  American  Fur  Company  has 
purchased  Fort  John,  and  demolished  it. —  PALMER. 


62  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

halted  and  encamped,  and  determined  to  repose  until 
Saturday  the  28th. 

June  28.  A  drive  of  ten  miles  brought  us  to  Big 
Spring,  a  creek  which  bursts  out  at  the  base  of  a  hill, 
and  runs  down  a  sandy  hollow.  The  spring  is  one 
fourth  of  a  mile  below  the  road.  We  found  the  water 
too  warm  to  be  palatable.35  Five  miles  beyond  the 
creek  the  road  forks;  we  took  the  right  hand  trail, 
which  is  the  best  of  the  two,  and  traversed  the  Black 
Hills,  as  they  are  called.  The  season  has  been  so  dry 
that  vegetation  is  literally  parched  up;  of  course  the 
grazing  is  miserable.  After  proceeding  eighteen  miles 
we  encamped  on  Bitter  Cotton  wood.36 

June  29.  To-day  we  find  the  country  very  rough, 
though  our  road  is  not  bad.  In  the  morning  some  of 
our  cattle  were  missing,  and  four  of  the  company  started 
back  to  hunt  for  them.  At  the  end  of  fourteen  miles 
we  rested  at  Horse  Shoe  creek,  a  beautiful  stream  of 
clear  water,  lined  with  trees,  and  with  wide  bottoms 
on  each  side,  covered  with  excellent  grass.  At  this 
point  our  road  was  about  three  miles  from  the  river.37 

July  i.  As  the  men  who  left  the  company  on  the 
29th,  to  look  for  our  lost  cattle,  were  not  returned,  we 
remained  in  [29]  camp  yesterday.  Game  seemed  abun- 
dant along  the  creek,  and  our  efforts  to  profit  by  it  were 


35  The  trail  lay  back  from  the  river,  for  some  distance  above  Fort  Laramie. 
Big  Spring  was  frequently  known  as  Warm  Spring,  and  the  coulee,  in  Laramie 
County,  Wyoming,  still  retains  the  name  of  Warm  Spring  Canon. —  ED. 

39  On  the  general  use  of  the  term  Black  Hills  see  our  volume  xxiii,  p.  244, 
note  204.  The  stream  called  Fourche  Amere  (bitter  fork)  by  Fremont  is  now 
known  simply  as  Cottonwood  Creek. —  ED. 

37  Retaining  the  same  name,  Horseshoe  Creek  is  a  considerable  wooded 
stream  in  western  Laramie  County,  Wyoming. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  journal  63 

rewarded  with  three  elk  and  three  deer.  To-day  our 
cattle  hunters  still  remain  behind.  We  sent  back  a 
reinforcement,  and  hitching  up  our  teams  advanced 
about  sixteen  miles.  Eight  miles  brought  us  to  the 
Dalles  of  Platte,  where  the  river  bursts  through  a  moun- 
tain spur.  Perpendicular  cliffs,  rising  abruptly  from 
the  water,  five  hundred  or  six  hundred  feet  high,  form 
the  left  bank  of  the  river.  These  cliffs  present  various 
strata,  some  resembling  flint,  others  like  marble,  lime, 
&c.  The  most  interesting  feature  of  these  magnificent 
masses,  is  the  variety  of  colors  that  are  presented;  yel- 
low, red,  black  and  white,  and  all  the  shades  between, 
as  they  blend  and  are  lost  in  each  other.  On  the  top  nods 
a  tuft  of  scrubby  cedars.  Upon  the  south  side,  a  narrow 
slope  between  the  bluff  and  river,  affords  a  pass  for  a 
footman  along  the  water's  edge,  while  beyond  the  bluff 
rises  abruptly.  Frequently  cedar  and  wild  sage  is  to 
be  seen.  I  walked  up  the  river  a  distance  of  half  a  mile, 
when  I  reached  a  spot  where  the  rocks  had  tumbled 
down,  and  found  something  of  a  slope,  by  which  I  could, 
with  the  assistance  of  a  long  pole,  and  another  person 
sometimes  pushing  and  then  pulling,  ascend;  we  suc- 
ceeded in  clambering  up  to  the  top  —  which  proved 
to  be  a  naked,  rough  black  rock,  with  here  and  there 
a  scrubby  cedar  and  wild  sage  bush.  It  appeared  to 
be  a  place  of  resort  for  mountain  sheep  and  bears.  We 
followed  this  ridge  south  to  where  it  gradually  descended 
to  the  road.  The  river  in  this  kanyon  is  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and  looks  deep.38  At 
the  eastern  end  of  this  kanyon  comes  in  a  stream  which, 

38  This  is  now  known  as  Lower  Platte  Canon,  and  is  traversed  by  the  Wyom- 
ing branch  of  the  Colorado  and  Southern  Railway. —  ED. 


64  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

from  appearance,  conveys  torrents  of  water  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year.  Here,  too,  is  a  very  good  camp. 
By  going  up  the  right  hand  branch  five  or  six  miles, 
then  turning  to  the  right  up  one  of  the  ridges,  and  cross- 
ing a  small  branch  (which  joins  the  river  six  or  seven 
miles  above  the  kanyori)  and  striking  the  road  on  the 
ridge  three  miles  east  of  the  Big  Timber  creek,  a  saving 
might  be  made  of  at  least  ten  miles  travel.  We  did  not 
travel  this  route ;  but,  from  the  appearance  of  the  country, 
there  would  be  no  difficulty. 

July  2.  This  day  we  traveled  about  sixteen  miles. 
The  road  left  the  river  bottom  soon  after  we  started. 
A  trail,  however,  crosses  the  bottom  for  about  two  miles, 
and  then  winds  back  to  the  hill.  The  nearest  road  is  up 
a  small  sandy  ravine,  for  two  miles,  then  turn  to  the 
right  up  a  ridge,  and  follow  this  ridge  for  eight  or  ten 
miles.  At  the  distance  of  thirteen  [30]  or  fourteen 
miles,  the  road  which  turned  to  the  left  near  the  Big 
Spring,  connects  with  this.  The  road  then  turns  down 
the  hill  to  the  right,  into  a  dry  branch,  which  it  descends 
to  Big  Timber  creek,  where  we  encamped." 

July  3.  This  day  we  traveled  about  fifteen  miles. 
Six  miles  brought  us  to  a  small  branch,  where  is  a  good 
camp.  Near  this  branch  there  is  abundance  of  marble, 
variegated  with  blue  and  red,  but  it  is  full  of  seams. 
The  hills  in  this  vicinity  are  of  the  red  shale  formation. 
In  the  mountain  near  by  is  stone  coal.  The  hills  were 
generally  covered  with  grass.  The  streams  are  lined 


"  Big  Timber  Creek  was  called  La  Fourche  Boise"e  by  Fre'mont;  more 
frequently  it  was  known  by  the  name  it  still  retains  —  La  Bontd  Creek,  in 
Converse  County,  Wyoming.  The  cut-off  recommended  by  Palmer  would  be 
by  way  of  Elkhorn  Creek  and  an  affluent  of  La  Bonte". —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  65 

with  cotton  wood,  willow  and  boxalder.  The  road  was 
very  dusty. 

July  4.  We  traveled  about  fifteen  miles  to-day,  the 
road  generally  good,  with  a  few  difficult  places.  Two 
wagons  upset,  but  little  damage  was  done.  We  crossed 
several  beautiful  streams  flowing  from  the  Black  hills; 
they  are  lined  with  timber.  To-day,  as  on  yesterday, 
we  found  abundance  of  red,  yellow  and  black  currants, 
with  some  gooseberries,  along  the  streams. 

July  5.  We  this  day  traveled  about  twelve  miles. 
Three  miles  brought  us  to  Deer  creek.40  Here  is  an 
excellent  camp  ground.  Some  very  good  bottom  land. 
The  banks  are  lined  with  timber.  Stone  coal  was  found 
near  the  road.  This  would  be  a  suitable  place  for  a 
fort,  as  the  soil  and  timber  is  better  than  is  generally 
found  along  the  upper  Platte.  Game  in  abundance, 
such  as  elk,  buffalo,  deer,  antelope  and  bear.  The 
timber  is  chiefly  cotton  wood,  but  there  is  pine  on  the 
mountains  within  ten  or  twelve  miles.  The  road  was 
generally  along  the  river  bottom,  and  much  of  the  way 
extremely  barren.  We  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the 
river. 

July  6.  In  traveling  through  the  sand  and  hot  sun, 
our  wagon  tires  had  become  loose;  and  we  had  wedged 
until  the  tire  would  no  longer  remain  on  the  wheels. 
One  or  two  axletrees  and  tongues  had  been  broken, 
and  we  found  it  necessary  to  encamp  and  repair 
them.  For  this  purpose  all  hands  were  busily  em- 

40  Deer  Creek  is  the  largest  southern  affluent  of  the  Platte,  between  the 
Laramie  and  the  Sweetwater.  It  is  well-timbered,  and  its  mouth  was  a 
familiar  camping  place  on  the  Oregon  Trail.  It  is  in  the  western  part  of 
Converse  County,  Wyoming,  about  770  miles  from  the  starting  point  at 
Independence. —  ED. 


66  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

ployed.  We  had  neither  bellows  nor  anvil,  and  of 
course  could  not  cut  and  weld  tire.  But  as  a  substi- 
tute, we  took  off  the  tire,  shaved  thin  hoops  and  tacked 
them  on  the  felloes,  heated  our  tire  and  replaced  it. 
This  we  found  to  answer  a  good  purpose. 

July  7.  This  day  we  traveled  about  ten  miles.  In 
crossing  a  small  ravine,  an  axletree  of  one  of  the  wagons 
was  broken.  [31]  The  road  is  mostly  on  the  river 
bottom.  Much  of  the  country  is  barren. 

July  8.  Six  miles  travel  brought  us  to  the  crossing 
of  the  north  fork  of  the  Platte.  At  i  o'clock,  P.  M.  all 
were  safely  over,  and  we  proceeded  up  half  a  mile  to 
a  grove  of  timber  and  encamped.41  Near  the  crossing 
was  encamped  Colonel  Kearney's  regiment  of  dragoons, 
on  their  return  from  the  South  Pass.  Many  of  them 
were  sick. 

July  9.  We  traveled  about  ten  miles  this  day,  and 
encamped  at  the  Mineral  Spring.  The  road  leaves  the 
Platte  at  the  crossing,  and  passes  over  the  Red  Buttes.0 
The  plains  in  this  region  are  literally  covered  with 
buffalo. 

July  10.  To-day  we  traveled  about  ten  miles.  The 
range  is  very  poor,  and  it  has  become  necessary  to  divide 
into  small  parties,  in  order  to  procure  forage  for  our 
cattle.  Out  of  the  company  five  divisions  were  formed. 
In  my  division  we  had  eleven  wagons;  and  we  travel 

41  The  best  ford  in  this  stretch  of  the  river;  it  averaged  only  about  three 
feet  in  depth  at  the  ordinary  stage  of  water,  and  its  width  varied  from  eight 
hundred  to  fifteen  hundred  feet.  It  was  a  little  above  the  present  town  of 
Casper,  Wyoming. —  ED. 

0  The  Mineral  Spring  was  usually  called  Red  Spring,  near  Poison  Spider 
Creek,  and  shows  traces  of  petroleum.  For  a  description  of  Red  Buttes  see 
our  volume  xxi,  p.  183. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer 's  Journal  67 

more  expeditiously,  with  but  little  difficulty  in  finding 
grass  for  our  cattle. 

July  ii.  We  this  day  traveled  about  twelve  miles. 
Soon  after  starting  we  passed  an  excellent  spring:  it  is 
to  the  right  of  the  road,  in  a  thicket  of  willows.  One 
fourth  of  a  mile  further  the  road  ascends  a  hill,  winds 
round  and  passes  several  marshy  springs.  The  grass  is 
very  good,  but  is  confined  to  patches.  Our  camp  was 
on  a  small  branch  running  into  the  Sweet  Water. 

July  12.  This  day  we  arrived  at  Independence  Rock. 
This  is  a  solitary  pile  of  gray  granite,  standing  in  an 
open  plain.  It  is  about  one-eighth  of  a  mile  long  and 
some  six  or  eight  rods  wide,  and  is  elevated  about  sixty 
or  seventy  feet  above  the  plain.  On  the  north-eastern 
side  the  slope  is  sufficiently  gradual  to  be  easily  ascended. 
Portions  of  it  are  covered  with  inscriptions  of  the  names 
of  travelers,  with  the  dates  of  their  arrival  —  some 
carved,  some  in  black  paint,  and  others  in  red.  Sweet 
Water,  a  stream  heading  in  the  Wind  River  Mountains, 
and  entering  the  Platte,  runs  immediately  along  its 
southern  side,  leaving  a  strip  of  some  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  of  grassy  plain  between  the  base  of  the  rock  and 
the  creek.  We  encamped  two  miles  above  the  rock, 
having  traveled  about  thirteen  miles.43 

July  13.  We  traveled  about  thirteen  miles  this  day. 
Three  miles  brought  us  to  the  Gap,  or  Devil's  Gate,  as 
it  is  sometimes  called.  The  Sweet  Water  breaks  through 
a  spur  of  the  mountain,  which  from  appearance  is  four 
or  five  hundred  feet  high.  [32]  On  the  south  side  the 
rocks  project  over  the  stream,  but  on  the  north  slope 

45  For  Independence  Rock  and  Sweetwater  River  see  our  volume  xxi, 
p.  53,  notes  33,  34.—  ED. 


68  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

back  a  little.  The  whole  mountain  is  a  mass  of  gray 
granite  rock,  destitute  of  vegetation,  save  an  occasional 
scrubby  cedar  or  bush  of  artemisia.  From  where 
the  creek  enters  to  where  it  emerges  from  this  kanyon 
is  three  or  four  hundred  yards.  The  water  rushes 
through  like  a  torrent.  At  the  distance  of  one  hundred 
rods  south  of  this  is  the  Gap,  where  the  road  passes; 
but  the  rock  is  not  so  high.  South  of  this  again  is  another 
gap,  perhaps  half  or  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide.  The 
rocks  there  rise  mountain  high.44  South-west  of  this 
is  a  valley  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  penetrate. 
As  the  road  passes  through  this  gap,  it  bears  to  the 
right,  up  the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water. 

July  14.  This  day  we  traveled  about  twenty- two 
miles.  The  road  sometimes  leaves  the  creek  for  several 
miles,  and  passes  over  a  barren,  sandy  plain;  no  kind 
of  vegetation  but  the  wild  sage.  We  this  day  met  a 
party  of  men  from  California  and  Oregon.  A  portion 
of  those  from  California  spoke  unfavorably  of  that 
country;  and  those  from  Oregon  spoke  highly  of  the 
latter  country.  On  this  day's  march  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  long-looked-for  snow-capped  mountains.  They 
were  the  Wind  River  Mountains.  On  our  right  is  a 
mass  of  naked  rock;  on  our  left  and  to  the  distance 
of  ten  or  twelve  miles  is  a  high  range  of  mountains, 
mostly  covered  with  timber;  whilst  in  the  valley  there 
is  no  timber,  and  much  of  the  plain  entirely  destitute 
of  vegetation.  We  encamped  near  the  Narrows.45 

44  For  this  gap,  or  canon,  see  De  Smet's  Letters  in  our  volume  xxvii,  p.  241, 
note  113. —  ED. 

48  The  Wind  River  Mountains  are  noted  in  our  volume  xxi,  p.  184,  note  35 . 
The  trail  along  the  Sweetwater  is  for  the  most  part  over  a  rough,  undulating 
prairie,  but  at  times  the  hills  force  the  road  close  to  the  river  valley.  At  one 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  69 

July  15.  We  traveled  about  eleven  miles  to-day. 
There  are  two  trails,  which  diverge  below  the  Narrows. 
The  nearest  and  best  is  that  to  the  right  up  the  creek, 
crossing  it  several  times;  they  unite  again  near  where 
we  encamped.  The  road  was  good,  but  as  usual  very 
dusty.  Our  hunters  wounded  a  buffalo,  and  drove 
him  into  camp.  About  twenty  men  ran  to  meet  him. 
He  gave  them  battle.  They  fired  a  volley  that  brought 
him  to  his  knees,  and  whilst  in  that  position  Mr.  Creigh- 
ton  (a  young  man  from  Ohio)  ran  across  the  creek, 
intending  to  shoot  the  animal  in  the  head.  When 
Creighton  had  approached  within  ten  or  twelve  feet, 
the  enraged  animal  sprung  to  his  feet  and  made  at  him. 
Creighton  wheeled  and  "split"  for  the  camp;  the  buf- 
falo pursuing  to  near  the  bank  of  the  creek,  where  he 
stopped.  By  this  time  others  had  arrived  with  guns, 
and  the  buffalo  was  compelled  to  yield.  In  the  "spree" 
one  of  my  horses  was  shot  with  a  ball  in  the  [33]  knee; 
no  bones  were  broken,  and  he  was  able  to  travel,  but 
he  was  a  long  time  very  lame. 

July  1 6.  This  day  we  traveled  about  twenty-six 
miles.  Four  miles  brought  us  to  a  marshy  bottom, 
where  was  very  good  grass.  In  the  centre  of  this  quag- 
mire and  near  where  the  road  crosses  the  bottom  is  a 
spring  of  good  water.  Eight  miles  brought  us  to  a  small 
stream;  but  little  grass.  Six  miles  brought  us  to  Sweet 
Water;  crossed  and  left  it  and  struck  it  again  in  six  or 
eight  miles.  The  grass  here  is  good.  Wild  sage  was 
our  only  fuel.  This  night  there  was  a  heavy  frost. 

place,  about  thirty-six  miles  above  the  river's  mouth,  the  route  grows  rugged 
and  crosses  the  river  three  times.  This  was  usually  known  as  the  Three 
Crossings,  and  is  probably  the  stretch  that  Palmer  calls  the  Narrows. —  ED. 


jo  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

July  17.  Our  cattle  being  much  fatigued,  we  drove 
but  five  miles.  The  road  is  up  the  creek  bottom,  which 
is  mostly  covered  with  grass.  A  heavy  frost:  ice  formed 
in  buckets  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick.  We  here  found 
the  celebrated  mountaineer  Walker,  who  was  traveling 
to  Bridger's  fort.46 

July  18.  We  traveled  about  twenty- two  miles  this 
day.  The  road  ascends  the  bluff  and  winds  among 
rocky  hills  for  six  miles,  passing  over  ledges  that  are 
entirely  naked  for  rods.  The  appearance  of  the  country 
is  extremely  barren.  We  passed  several  rivulets  where 
small  parties  may  obtain  grazing  for  their  stock.  The 
day  has  been  quite  cold.  The  Wind  River  Mountains 
are  on  our  right,  about  twenty  miles  distant.  They 
presented  a  most  grand  appearance.  Huge  masses  of 
ice  and  snow  piled  up  peak  upon  peak,  with  large 
bodies  of  timber  covering  portions  of  the  mountains. 
We  viewed  the  southern  termination  of  this  range; 

46  Joseph  R.  Walker  was  born  (1798)  in  Tennessee.  In  early  life  he 
migrated  to  the  Missouri  frontier,  and  for  many  years  was  a  trapper  and  trader 
in  the  direction  of  Santa  Fe".  Once  he  was  captured  by  the  Mexicans,  and 
afterwards  participated  in  a  battle  between  them  and  the  Pawnee  Indians. 
In  1832  Captain  Bonneville  secured  Walker  as  a  member  of  his  trading 
party,  and  the  following  year  sent  him  on  an  expedition  that  explored  a 
route  from  Salt  Lake  to  California,  through  Walker's  Pass,  which  took  its 
name  from  this  explorer.  On  this  journey  he  claimed  first  of  any  American 
to  have  seen  the  Yosemite.  His  knowledge  of  the  West  brought  his  services 
in  demand  as  a  guide  or  pilot.  In  1843  he  led  out  a  small  party  of  emigrants. 
From  Bridger's  Fort,  whither  he  was  going  when  met  by  Palmer,  he  joined 
Fremont's  third  exploring  expedition,  and  was  sent  forward  with  a  portion 
of  the  party  by  his  former  route  of  1833.  The  junction  with  his  chief's  party 
was  made  after  the  latter's  visit  to  Monterey.  Walker,  however,  did  not 
remain  to  take  part  in  the  events  that  led  to  the  American  conquest  of  Cali- 
fornia, but  started  back  to  the  states  with  a  drove  of  California  horses  for  sale, 
and  was  again  at  Fort  Bridger  in  July,  1846.  For  twenty  years  longer  he 
continued  his  vagrant  life  in  the  mountains,  finally  settling  (1866-67)  in  Contra 
Costa  County,  California,  where  he  died  in  1876. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  71 

but  they  extend  to  the  north  further  than  the  eye 
can  penetrate.  The  country  between  us  and  the 
mountains  is  rolling,  and  much  of  it  apparently  barren. 
Hard  frost. 

July  19.  This  morning  we  ascended  the  bank  on 
the  south  side  of  Sweet  Water.  Six  miles  brought  us 
again  to  the  creek,  where  is  good  grass  in  the  bottom 
and  willow  for  fuel.  We  crossed,  went  up  the  bottom 
two  miles,  and  crossed  back  and  left  the  Sweet  Water. 
This  day  we  passed  over  the  dividing  ridge  which  separates 
the  waters  -flowing  into  the  Atlantic  from  those  which  find 
their  way  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  WE  HAD  REACHED 

THE    SUMMIT    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.      Six    miles 

brought  us  to  a  spring,  the  waters  of  which  run  into 
Green  river,  or  the  great  Colorado  of  the  west.47 — 
Here,  then,  we  hailed  OREGON.  Here  we  found  a 
bottom  covered  with  good  grass,  where  we  halted  until 
four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  when  we  again  hitched  up  and  took 
the  plain  for  Little  Sandy.  Ten  miles  brought  us  to 
a  dry  branch,  where  by  digging  to  the  [34]  depth  of  one 
foot  we  procured  water;  but  it  was  brackish,  and  had 
a  very  unpleasant  taste.  A  white  sediment,  such  as 
we  had  noticed  elsewhere  on  the  road,  covered  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  Ten  miles  more  brought  us  to 
Little  Sandy,  which  we  reached  at  one  o'clock  in  the 
night,  having  traveled  thirty-one  miles.  The  road 
was  over  a  barren  plain  of  light  sand,  and  was  very 
dusty.  From  the  spring  to  Little  Sandy  there  is  no 


47  For  South  Pass  and  Green  River  see  our  volume  xxi,  pp.  58-60,  notes 

37,  38. 

The  springs  were  known  as  Pacific  Springs,  running  into  a  creek  of  that 
name,  affluent  of  the  Big  Sandy  in  Fremont  County,  Wyoming. —  ED. 


72  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

vegetation  but  the  wild  sage,  and  it  had  a  withered 
appearance.  The  night  was  cold,  freezing  quite  hard. 
Little  Sandy  has  its  source  in  the  Wind  river  moun- 
tains.48 Along  this  stream  is  a  narrow  bottom,  covered 
with  grass  and  willows.  We  are  now  out  of  the  range 
of  the  buffalo,  and  although  not  often  mentioned,  we 
have  seen  thousands  of  these  huge  animals.  There 
have  been  so  many  companies  of  emigrants  in  advance 
of  us,  that  they  have  frightened  the  buffalo  from  the 
road.  We  daily  see  hundreds  of  antelope. 

July  20.  This  day  we  traveled  about  thirteen  miles, 
to  Big  Sandy.  The  road  was  over  a  level  sandy  plain, 
covered  with  wild  sage.  At  Little  Sandy  the  road 
forks  —  one  taking  to  the  right  and  striking  Big  Sandy 
in  six  miles,  and  thence  forty  miles  to  Green  river,  strik- 
ing the  latter  some  thirty  or  forty  miles  above  the  lower 
ford,  and  thence  to  Big  Bear  river,  striking  it  about 
fifteen  miles  below  the  old  road.  By  taking  this  trail 
two  and  a  half  days'  travel  may  be  saved;  but  in  the 
forty  miles  between  Big  Sandy  and  Green  river  there 
is  no  water,  and  but  little  grass.  Camps  may  be  had 
within  reasonable  distances  between  Green  and  Bear 
rivers.49  The  left  hand  trail,  which  we  took,  twelve 
miles  from  Little  Sandy  strikes  the  Big  Sandy,  follows 
down  it  and  strikes  Green  river  above  the  mouth  of 
Big  Sandy. 

July  21.  We  traveled  about  fourteen  miles  to-day. 
Six  miles  brought  us  to  Green  river,  or  Colorado.  This 

48  The  dry  branch  is  known  as  Dry  Sandy  Creek.  For  the  Little  Sandy 
see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  187,  note  36. —  ED. 

4*  This  was  known  as  Sublette's  Cut-off;  see  De  Smet's  Letters  in  our  volume 
xxvii,  p.  242,  note  115. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  73 

is  a  beautiful  clear  stream,  about  one  hundred  yards 
wide,  with  a  rapid  current  over  a  gravelly  bottom.  It 
flows  through  a  barren,  sandy  country;  occasionally 
the  bottoms  spread  to  a  mile  in  width,  covered  with 
grass.  There  is  mostly  a  belt  of  timber  along  the  banks 
of  the  stream. —  Emigrants  had  been  in  the  habit  of 
crossing  the  river  on  rafts.  We  succeeded  in  finding 
a  place  where,  by  hoisting  up  the  wagon-beds  six  inches, 
we  could  ford  the  river  without  damaging  our  goods. 
This  was  done  by  cutting  poles  and  placing  them  under 
the  wagon-beds,  and  in  one  hour  we  were  all  safely 
over.  We  proceeded  down  the  river  eight  miles,  and 
encamped  in  a  grove  near  some  [35]  cabins  built  by  a 
party  of  traders.  There  is  an  abundance  of  fish  in  this 
stream,  and  we  had  great  sport  in  fishing. 

July  23.  This  day  we  traveled  about  fifteen  miles. 
The  road  leaves  Green  river  near  our  camp,  and  passes 
over  a  high,  barren  country,  to  Black's  fork;  this  we 
followed  up  some  four  miles  and  encamped.80  As  upon 
other  streams,  there  is  occasionally  a  grassy  bottom 
with  a  little  cotton  wood  and  willow  brush.  Snowy 
mountains  to  be  seen  in  the  south. 

July  24.  We  traveled,  to-day,  about  fourteen  miles, 
over  a  barren  country,  crossing  the  creek  several  times. 
We  noticed  a  number  of  piles  of  stone  and  earth,  some 
forty  or  fifty  feet  high,  scattered  in  different  directions, 


60  At  this  point,  Green  River  bears  considerably  east  of  south,  the  trail 
therefore  turns  southwest,  striking  Black  Fork  of  Green,  not  far  from  the 
present  Granger,  Wyoming,  at  the  junction  of  the  Union  Pacific  and  Oregon 
Short  Line  railways.  Black  Fork  rises  in  the  extreme  southeastern  corner  of 
Wyoming,  flows  northeast,  thence  east  and  southeast,  entering  the  Green  in 
Sweetwater  County.  It  is  a  shallow,  somewhat  sluggish  stream,  passing  through 
an  alkaline  country. —  ED. 


74  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

giving  the  appearance  of  the  general  surface  having 
been  worn  away  to  that  extent  by  the  ravages  of  time 
and  the  elements. 

July  25.  This  day  we  traveled  about  sixteen  miles, 
crossed  the  creek  several  times,  and  encamped  near 
Fort  Bridger.  This  is  a  trading  fort  owned  by  Bridger 
and  Bascus.  It  is  built  of  poles  and  daubed  with  mud; 
it  is  a  shabby  concern.51  Here  are  about  twenty-five 
lodges  of  Indians,  or  rather  white  trappers'  lodges 
occupied  by  their  Indian  wives.  They  have  a  good 
supply  of  robes,  dressed  deer,  elk  and  antelope 
skins,  coats,  pants,  moccasins,  and  other  Indian  fixens, 
which  they  trade  low  for  flour,  pork,  powder,  lead, 
blankets,  butcher-knives,  spirits,  hats,  ready  made  clothes, 
coffee,  sugar,  &c.  They  ask  for  a  horse  from  twenty- 
five  to  fifty  dollars,  in  trade.  Their  wives  are  mostly  of 
the  Pyentes  and  Snake  Indians.82  They  have  a  herd 

51  The  site  of  Fort  Bridger  was  chosen  by  its  founder  as  the  best  station  for 
trade  with  emigrants  following  the  Oregon  Trail.  Its  building  (1843)  marked 
an  epoch  in  Western  emigration,  showing  the  importance  of  trade  with  the 
increasing  number  of  travellers.  The  place  was  an  oasis  in  the  desert-like 
neighborhood,  the  stream  of  Black  Fork  coming  from  the  Unita  Mountains, 
and  in  this  wooded  valley  dividing  into  several  branches.  In  1854  Bridger 
sold  his  post  to  a  Mormon  named  Lewis  Robinson,  who  maintained  it  until 
1858,  when  United  States  troops  wintering  during  the  Mormon  campaign 
built  at  this  site  a  government  post,  also  known  as  Fort  Bridger,  which  was 
garrisoned  about  twenty  years  longer.  For  Bridger,  the  founder,  see  De 
Smet's  Letters,  in  our  volume  xxvii,  p.  299,  note  156.  His  partner  was  Louis 
Vasques  (not  Bascus),  a  Mexican  who  for  many  years  had  been  a  mountain 
man.  For  some  time  he  was  in  partnership  with  Sublette  in  a  trading  post 
on  the  South  Platte.  About  1840  he  entered  into  partnership  with  Bridger, 
and  is  remembered  to  have  lived  with  some  luxury,  riding  about  the  country 
near  Fort  Bridger  in  a  coach  and  four.  See  Wyoming  Historical  Society 
Collections,  i,  p.  68. —  ED. 

B  For  the  Snake  (Shoshoni)  Indians,  see  our  volume  v,  p.  227,  note  123. 
The  Paiute  are  referred  to  in  our  volume  xviii,  p.  140,  note  70;  also  in  De  Smet's 
Letters,  in  our  volume  xxvii,  pp.  165,  167,  notes  35,  38. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  75 

of  cattle,  twenty-five  or  thirty  goats  and  some  sheep. 
They  generally  abandon  this  fort  during  the  winter 
months.  At  this  place  the  bottoms  are  wide,  and  covered 
with  good  grass.  Cotton  wood  timber  in  plenty.  The 
stream  abounds  with  trout. 

July  26.  Remained  at  the  fort  the  whole  of  this 
day. 

July  27.  We  traveled  about  eight  miles,  to-day,  to 
Little  Muddy.  The  grazing  and  water  bad.  Several 
bad  hills. 

July  28.  To-day  we  traveled  about  sixteen  miles. 
Ten  miles  brought  us  to  the  Big  Muddy.53  Country 
barren.  Our  course  is  up  the  Big  Muddy,  and  nearly 
north.  Encamped  on  the  creek.  Very  poor  grazing. 
This  is  a  limestone  country. 

July  29.  This  day  we  traveled  about  sixteen  miles. 
Our  course  is  still  up  the  Muddy.  Emigrants  would 
do  well  to  push  on  up  to  near  the  head  of  this  creek,  as 
the  grass  is  good,  [36]  and  there  are  excellent  springs 
of  water.  The  country  is  very  rough.  We  saw  a  few 
beaver  dams. 

July  30.  We  traveled  about  twenty-five  miles  this 
day.  Twelve  miles  brought  us  to  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  waters  of  Green  and  Bear  rivers.  The 
ridge  is  high,  but  the  ascent  is  not  difficult.  From 
this  ridge  the  scenery  is  most  delightful.  In  one  view 
is  the  meanders  of  Muddy  creek.  Two  companies  with 
large  herds  of  cattle  are  winding  their  way  up  the  valley. 

83  By  the  Little  Muddy,  Palmer  refers  to  the  stream  now  known  as  the 
Muddy,  a  branch  of  Black  Fork,  which  would  be  reached  in  about  eight  miles 
from  Fort  Bridget,  by  travelling  northwest.  Palmer's  "  Big  Muddy ' '  is  the 
stream  usually  known  as  Ham's  Fork,  for  which  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  197, 
note  43. —  ED. 


j6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

The  bold  mountains  on  either  side  are  very  high  and 
rugged.  In  front  and  at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles 
is  the  valley  of  Big  Bear  river.  A  ravine  at  our  feet 
cuts  the  spur  of  the  mountain,  and  empties  its  waters 
into  Bear  river.  The  valley  of  Bear  river  is  four  or 
five  miles  wide,  with  willows  along  its  banks.  Aft  a 
distance  beyond  the  Bear  river  is  a  range  of  high  moun- 
tains, stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  their  snowy 
tops  glistening  in  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  mountains 
near  the  trail  are  rough  and  have  a  singular  appearance; 
the  earth  being  of  various  colors  —  black,  white,  red, 
yellow,  and  intermediate  shades.  Occasionally  there 
is  a  grove  of  quaking  aspen,  and  a  few  sour-berry  bushes 
and  some  cedar.  Our  camp  to-night  was  on  Bear 
river;  the  bottom  is  sandy,  and  mostly  covered  with 
wild  sage.84 

July  31.  This  day  we  traveled  down  Bear  river 
fifteen  miles.  The  bottom  is  from  two  to  four  miles 
wide,  and  mostly  covered  with  good  grass.  The  road 
excellent.  We  encamped  two  miles  above  Smith's  fork. 
The  upper  road  from  Green  river  comes  in  two  miles 
back. 

August  i.  We  traveled  fifteen  miles  this  day.  Two 
miles  brought  us  to  Smith's  fork.  This  is  a  bold,  clear, 
and  beautiful  stream,  coming  in  from  the  east.  It  is 
about  fifteen  yards  wide,  lined  with  timber  and  under- 
growth.55 In  this  stream  is  an  abundance  of  moun- 

M  The  divide  between  the  waters  of  Green  and  Bear  River  may  be  crossed 
at  several  points.  Its  altitude  is  about  eight  thousand  feet,  and  all  travellers 
speak  of  the  wide  view.  The  mountains  to  the  west  are  those  of  the  Bear 
River  range,  running  between  the  arms  of  the  river,  for  which  see  our  volume 
xxi,  p.  199,  note  44. —  ED. 

K  The  upper  road  from  Green  River,  usually  known  as  Sublette's  road, 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  77 

tain  trout,  some  of  them  very  large.  The  road  leads 
down  the  bottom  of  Bear  river  three  miles  to  Spring 
branch,  one  mile  to  the  Narrows  and  three  miles  to  the 
first  crossing  of  Bear  river.58  Here  are  two  trails.  The 
nearest  turns  to  the  right  up  a  creek  for  a  mile  and  a 
half,  crosses  the  creek  and  passes  over  the  hill,  and  strikes 
the  other  trail  at  the  foot  of  Big  Hill,  six  miles  from 
the  crossings.  The  other  trail  crosses  the  river,  follows 
up  its  bottom  round  the  bend  for  eight  miles,  to  where 
it  crosses  the  river,  then  follows  down  the  bottom  three 
miles,  and  takes  up  a  valley  for  one  mile  to  the  foot 
of  the  Big  Hill,  where  it  intersects  the  other  trail.  This 
is  the  most  level  road,  but  the  other  is  not  a  bad  one. 
[37]  The  hills  bordering  on  Bear  river  on  this  day's 
travel  are  very  high  and  rugged;  they  are  covered  with 
grass.  The  bottoms  are  from  one  to  four  miles  wide. 
We  saw  this  day  large  herds  of  antelope.  We  encamped 
in  the  bend  of  the  river,  near  the  second  crossings. 

August  2.  This  day  we  traveled  about  nineteen 
miles.  Four  or  five  miles  brought  us  to  the  big  hill  or 
mountain.  It  is  about  half  a  mile  to  the  top  of  the  first 
ridge,  and  quite  steep.  The  road  then  turns  a  few 
rods  to  the  right,  then  to  the  left  down  a  ravine  for  three 
hundred  yards,  and  then  up  a  ravine  for  half  a  mile 
to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  We  traveled  about  two 

comes  across  by  way  of  Crow  Creek,  a  branch  of  Ham's  Fork,  and  Sublette 
Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Bear.  Smith's  Fork  comes  almost  directly  from 
the  north,  its  headwaters  nearly  interlacing  with  Salt  River  branch  of  Lewis 
(or  Snake)  River.  It  enters  Bear  River  quite  near  the  dividing  line  between 
Wyoming  and  Idaho. —  ED. 

"  The  first  crossing  of  Bear  River  is  just  above  the  mouth  of  Thomas's 
Fork.  For  a  detailed  map  of  this  stretch  of  the  road  see  Fremont's  "  Explor- 
ing Tour  "  (op.  tit.  in  note  30),  p.  132. —  ED. 


78  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

miles  along  the  ridge,  and  then  turned  to  the  left  down 
the  mountain.  It  is  about  one  mile  to  the  plain,  and 
generally  very  steep  and  stony;  but  all  reached  the  plain 
safely,  and  were  truly  thankful  that  they  had  safely 
passed  one  of  the  most  difficult  mountains  on  the  road. 
From  the  top  of  this  mountain  we  had  a  most  delightful 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.  This  is  one  of  the 
ranges  which  border  this  stream.  At  this  place  they 
close  in  upon  both  sides  so  as  not  to  admit  of  a  passage 
with  teams  along  the  river.  A  road  could  easily  be 
cut  around  the  point,  and  save  the  fatigue  of  climbing 
this  mountain;  the  distance  would  not  be  materially 
increased.  The  valley  of  Bear  river  bears  off  to  the 
north-west,  and  can  be  seen  a  great  distance.  From 
the  south  comes  in  a  broad  valley,  up  which  can  be  seen 
Bear  Lake.  A  high  range  of  mountains  separates  it 
from  the  river.  The  outlet  of  this  lake  is  two  or  three 
miles  below  the  narrows  made  by  this  mountain."  A 
high  range  of  snow  covered  mountains  can  be  seen  to 
the  south-west.  The  road  strikes  the  river  two  miles 
from  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  at  Big  Timber.  Here 
is  a  good  camp.  Eight  miles  brought  us  to  a  spring 
branch.  The  bottom  here  is  wide;  a  low  marsh  pre- 
vents driving  to  the  river.  The  grass  is  good.  There  is 
a  little  timber  on  the  mountains.  At  Big  Timber  is  a 
company  of  trappers  and  traders  attached  to  Bridger's 
party. 

57  The  big  hill  is  just  beyond  the  bend  of  the  Bear,  below  Thomas's  Fork, 
and  the  nearest  approach  the  road  makes  to  the  valley  of  Bear  Lake.  This 
lake  is  evidently  the  remains  of  one  that  occupied  a  much  larger  area,  as  the 
marshes  at  its  upper  end  signify.  It  now  measures  about  nineteen  miles  in 
length,  with  an  average  width  of  six,  and  a  depth  of  from  forty  to  sixty  feet. 
The  lower  portion  of  the  lake  is  in  Utah  and  the  upper  in  Idaho.  Its  waters 
are  noted  for  their  exquisite  blue  tint. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  79 

August  3.  We  traveled  about  fourteen  miles,  cross- 
ing a  number  of  spring  branches,  coming  in  from  the 
mountains.  These  branches  abound  in  trout.  The 
ground,  for  a  strip  of  about  four  miles,  was  covered  with 
black  crickets  of  a  large  size.  I  saw  some  that  were 
about  three  inches  in  length,  and  measuring  about  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  but  the  common  size 
were  two  inches  in  length  and  one-half  or  five-eighths 
of  an  inch  in  diameter;  their  legs  were  large  in  pro- 
portion [38]  to  the  size  of  their  bodies.  Some  were 
singing  on  stalks  of  wild  sage;  others  crawling  in  every 
direction.  Our  teams  made  great  havoc  among  them; 
so  numerous  were  they  that  we  crushed  them  at  every 
step.  As  soon  as  one  was  killed,  others  of  them  would 
alight  upon  it  and  devour  it.  The  bottoms  are  wide, 
and  covered  with  grass,  and  the  soil  looks  well.  A 
few  patches  of  snow  were  seen  upon  the  mountain  some 
ten  miles  distant.  A  portion  of  the  mountain  is  covered 
with  fine  timber.  The  bottoms  are  rolling. 

August  4.  We  reached  the  Soda  springs,  having 
traveled  about  eight  miles.58  The  first  view  we  had 
was  of  two  or  three  white  hillocks  or  mounds,  standing 
up  at  different  points  to  the  right  of  the  road,  and  near 
a  grove  of  cedar  and  pine  timber.  One  of  them  is 
about  ten  rods  long  at  the  base,  and  three  or  four  rods 
in  width;  its  elevation  is  probably  twenty-five  or  thirty 
feet  from  the  plain  in  which  it  is  situated.  The  size  of 
these  mounds  continually  increases,  as  the  water  oozes 
out  at  different  points,  and  produces  a  crust  which 
becomes  quite  hard.  The  rocks,  for  miles  around, 
are  of  the  soda  formation.  Upon  these  mounds  the 

48  For  the  location  of  these  springs  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  200,  note  45. —  ED. 


80  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

water  is  warm.  In  a  small  bottom,  immediately  before 
reaching  the  first  of  these  mounds,  and  about  two  hun- 
dred yards  above  the  road,  is  a  hole  about  eight  feet 
in  diameter;  in  this  is  a  pool  of  water,  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  soda.  I  had  no  means  of  ascertaining  the 
depth,  but  believe  it  to  be  considerable;  at  one  edge 
of  it  the  water  was  boiling  and  sparkling;  it  would 
sometimes  swell  four  inches  above  the  surface.  This 
pool,  and  others  contiguous,  affords  excellent  drink- 
ing water;  it  was  cool,  and,  when  sweetened,  would 
compare  favourably  with  any  soda  water.  Just  below 
the  mound,  and  near  the  grove,  is  a  rapid  stream  of 
water,  coursing  over  a  rocky  bottom,  formed  by  soda. 
At  the  crossing  of  this  creek,  and  below  the  road,  is  a 
morass;  and  immediately  on  the  bank  of  the  rivulet, 
is  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  from  which  a  small  stream  of 
water  issues;  this  was  the  best  to  drink  of  any  I  found. 
After  crossing  the  creek,  the  distance  to  the  springs 
generally  resorted  to  is  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile; 
they  boil  up  in  every  direction.  Several  mounds  have 
been  formed,  of  ten  feet  in  height.  The  water  has 
found  some  other  passage,  and  left  them  to  moulder 
away.  The  centre  or  middle  of  these  are  concave. 
The  surface  of  the  earth  here  is  some  twelve  or  fifteen 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  the  bank  of  which  is  of 
rock,  of  the  soda  formation.  A  grove  of  cedar  and 
pine  timber  extends  from  the  river  back  to  [39]  the 
mountain,  a  distance  of  two  and  a  half  or  three  miles; 
the  space  between  the  road  and  the  river  is  covered 
with  grass;  but  between  it  and  the  mountain  it  is 
barren  of  vegetation  of  any  kind.  The  soda  has  left  a 
sediment,  which  is  now  crumbled  and  loose,  with  an 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  81 

occasional  mound  of  ten  or  twelve  feet  elevation,  but  no 
water  running.  The  river  here  is  about  one  hundred 
yards  in  width,  and  about  eighteen  inches  in  depth, 
running  very  rapidly.  The  soda  water  is  bubbling 
up  in  every  direction,  and  sometimes  rises  six  inches 
above  the  surface  of  the  river.  This  bubbling  extends 
for  near  half  a  mile.  A  stream  comes  in  from  the  north 
at  the  western  edge  of  the  springs,  tumbles  over  the 
rocks,  and  finally  into  the  river.  Near  where  one  branch 
of  this  falls  over  the  rock  (it  has  several  passages  where 
the  road  crosses  it)  is  a  circular  basin  in  the  rock,  being 
two  feet  in  diameter  at  the  top,  but  larger  below.  It 
was  covered  with  grass;  and,  in  walking  along,  I  barely 
avoided  stepping  into  it;  whilst  at  its  edge  the  purling 
or  gurgling  of  the  water,  as  it  boils  up,  apprized  me 
of  its  vicinity.  The  surface  of  the  water  is  about  three 
feet  below  the  top  of  the  rock.  The  water  is  cool,  much 
more  so  than  the  water  of  the  springs,  and  is  remark- 
ably clear. 

Three  hundred  yards  below  the  crossing  of  this  branch, 
and  immediately  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  is  the  Steam- 
boat Spring."  The  water  has  formed  a  small  cone  of 
about  two  and  a  half  feet  in  height,  and  three  feet  in 
diameter,  at  the  base.  A  hole  of  six  inches  in  diameter 
at  the  top,  allows  the  water  to  discharge  itself.  It  swells 
out  at  intervals  of  eight  or  ten  seconds,  and  sometimes 
flows  four  or  five  feet  in  disjointed  fragments.  It  is 
lukewarm,  and  has  a  milky  appearance;  but  when 
taken  in  a  vessel  becomes  as  transparent  as  crystal.  It 


"A  map  of  these  springs  can  be  found  in  Fremont's  "Exploring  Tour" 
(pp.  cit.  in  note  30),  p.  135.  Steamboat  Spring  is  a  miniature  geyser,  an 
analysis  of  whose  waters  is  given  by  Fr&nont,  p.  136. —  ED. 


8  2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

produces  a  sound  similar  to  the  puffing  of  a  steamboat, 
but  not  quite  so  deep.  It  can  frequently  be  heard  at 
the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  About  six  feet  from 
this  is  a  small  fissure  in  the  rock,  which  is  called  the 
escape-pipe  or  gas-pipe.  It  makes  a  hissing  noise, 
corresponding  with  the  belching  of  the  spring.  The 
gas  emitted  from  this  fissure  is  so  strong  that  it  would 
suffocate  a  person,  holding  his  head  near  the  ground. 
To  the  rear  of  this,  across  the  road,  are  mounds  fifty 
or  sixty  feet  in  height;  these  were  entirely  dry.  Up 
this  creek  is  very  good  grazing  for  cattle,  but  there  are 
found  some  marshy  places  contiguous.  The  bottom 
upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  four  or  five  miles 
in  width,  and  covered  with  a  good  coat  of  grass.  The 
soil  looks  good ;  and  if  the  seasons  are  not  too  [40]  short, 
would  produce  well.  The  mountain  upon  the  south 
side  is  covered  with  heavy  pine  timber;  on  the  north 
side  but  little  timber  was  observed;  what  little  was 
noticed  consisted  principally  of  scrubby  cedars.  Ante- 
lope found  in  abundance.  The  water,  in  many  of  the 
springs,  is  sufficiently  strong  to  raise  bread,  equally  as 
well  as  saleratus  or  yeast.  Were  it  not  for  their  remote 
situation,  these  springs  would  be  much  resorted  to, 
especially  during  the  summer  months.  The  country 
is  mountainous,  and  its  altitude  so  great,  that  the  air  is 
always  cool,  and  consequently  must  be  healthy. 

Companies  wishing  to  remain  for  a  length  of  time 
at  the  springs,  would  pursue  a  proper  course  in  driving 
their  cattle  over  the  river,  as  good  grazing  can  thereby 
be  had. 

August  5.  We  traveled  about  nineteen  miles.  Five 
miles  brought  us  to  where  the  road  leaves  the  river, 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  "Journal  83 

and  bears  northward  through  a  valley.  The  river 
bears  to  the  southward  and  empties  its  waters  into 
Big  Salt  Lake.60  The  range  of  mountains  bounding 
the  north  side  of  the  river  here  comes  to  within  a  half 
mile  of  it,  then  bears  off  to  the  north,  leaving  a  valley 
of  about  seven  or  eight  miles  in  width  between  it  and 
a  range  coming  from  Lewis  river,  and  extending  south 
towards  Salt  Lake.  The  range  bounding  the  south 
side  of  the  river  comes  abruptly  to  the  stream  at  this 
point,  presenting  huge  and  cumbrous  masses  of  basaltic 
rock,  but  it  is  generally  covered  with  heavy  timber.  At 
this  point  two  trails  are  found :  one  striking  west,  across 
the  valley,  to  the  opposite  side;  the  other,  which  is  the 
nearest  and  best,  follows  around  the  point,  hugging  the 
base  of  the  mountain  for  several  miles.  Two  and  one 
half  miles  distant,  and  immediately  beneath  a  cliff  of 
rocks  by  the  road  side,  is  to  be  found  a  soda  pool.  A 
little  spring  of  cool  soda  water  runs  out  at  the  base  of 
the  rock,  and  a  basin  of  eight  or  ten  yards  in  extent, 
and  about  two  and  one  half  feet  high  has  been  formed. 
Inside  of  this,  is  a  pool  of  water;  —  the  material  com- 
posing the  bank  around,  is  of  a  white  color.  In  a  few 
miles  travel,  we  crossed  several  spring  branches.  We 
then  directed  our  course  through  the  plain  for  some 
eight  or  nine  miles,  to  where  we  encamped.  Our  camp 
was  located  near  a  spring  branch;  but  a  small  quantity 
of  wood  was  found;  grazing  was  excellent.  From  where 
the  road  leaves  the  river,  the  country  presents  every 
appearance  of  having  been  volcanic  at  some  period. 
Craters  are  yet  standing  in  the  plain,  exhibiting  positive 
evidence  of  this  fact.  A  large  mound  has  been  formed 

60  For  a  brief  note  on  Salt  Lake  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  199,  note  44. —  ED. 


84  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

by  the  lava  ejected  from  this  crater.  In  the  centre  is  [41] 
a  deep  cavity;  now  partially  filled,  from  the  falling  in 
of  the  masses  of  bank  surrounding  it.  In  every  direc- 
tion the  eye  rests  upon  fragments  of  rock,  which  have 
been  thrown  out  in  a  hot  and  burning  condition,  many 
of  them  melted  and  united;  pieces  resembling  broken 
junk  bottles  or  black  glass  lay  scattered  over  the  plain. 
The  valley  for  ten  or  twelve  miles  is  covered  with  stone 
of  this  description.  In  many  places  the  rocks  have 
been  lifted  or  bulged  up  to  an  elevation  of  ten  or  fifteen 
feet,  the  top  has  been  burst  asunder,  presenting  a  cavity 
of  eight  or  ten  feet  in  width,  caused  by  the  fragments 
having  been  cast  out;  the  depth  of  the  cavity  is  from 
twenty  to  thirty  feet,  the  sides  have  a  black  appearance, 
and  exhibit  indications  of  having  been  burned;  at  other 
places  the  rock  had  been  lifted  up,  and  elevated  above 
the  surface  of  the  earth  some  five  or  six  feet,  and  about 
the  same  in  width,  having  numerous  small  apertures 
in  it,  the  centre  being  concave.  The  stone  forms  a 
complete  arch.  At  other  places  the  rock  has  been  rent, 
and  a  chasm  of  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  depth  and  from 
two  to  ten  feet  in  width,  has  been  the  result.  These 
chasms  are  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length.  The 
fragments  lay  in  every  direction. 

The  country  over  this  plain  is  rather  barren;  but  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year,  is  covered  with  grass,  which 
during  the  summer  months  dies,  leaving  but  little  appear- 
ance of  vegetation.  After  we  had  halted  for  the  night, 
three  families  who  had  separated  from  our  company  at 
the  Soda  Springs,  passed  us.  A  few  hours  had  elapsed, 
and  we  espied  one  of  their  number  returning  post  haste 
to  our  camp.  When  he  arrived,  he  was  so  paralysed 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  85 

with  fear,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  obtained  from 
him  the  cause  of  his  alarm.  It  appeared  evident,  from 
his  statement,  that  a  party  of  Snake  Indians  meditated 
an  attack  upon  their  party.  We  dispatched  a  company 
to  their  relief,  but  soon  had  the  gratification  to  witness 
the  return  of  their  wagons  to  our  camp.  It  appears 
that  one  of  their  number  had  marched  about  two  miles 
in  advance  of  the  wagons,  when  he  was  discovered  by 
a  party  of  Snake  Indians,  lurking  in  the  vicinity,  who 
immediately  gave  him  chase,  at  every  step  uttering  the 
most  terrific  yells,  and  endeavoured  to  surround  him; 
but  as  he  was  astride  a  fleet  American  courser,  he  suc- 
ceeded in  outstripping  them,  and  arrived  at  the  wagons 
in  time  to  prepare  for  their  approach.  The  wagons 
were  then  in  a  deep  ravine,  and  could  not  be  seen,  by 
the  Indians  in  pursuit,  until  within  seventy-five  yards. 
As  soon  as  the  Indians  discovered  [42]  their  proximity 
to  the  wagons  they  commenced  a  precipitate  retreat, 
and  the  emigrants  rejoined  our  party. 

August  6.  We  traveled  this  day  about  fifteen  miles. 
The  road  for  seven  miles  is  up  the  valley;  it  then  takes 
over  the  mountain,  to  the  waters  running  into  Snake 
or  Lewis  river.  The  high  range  of  mountains  which 
bears  off  towards  Salt  Lake,  terminates  near  the  road 
on  the  left.  The  road  follows  a  ravine,  and  winds 
about  among  the  hills,  and  thickets  of  quaking  aspen, 
until  it  reaches  a  spring  branch,  down  which  it  follows, 
to  near  Fort  Hall.  Over  the  ridge,  and  for  two  miles 
down  the  branch,  there  is  but  little  grass  found.  At  the 
distance  of  three  miles,  on  our  left  up  the  mountain, 
were  several  patches  of  snow.  A  few  of  our  party 
brought  some  of  the  snow  to  our  camp. 


86  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

August  7.  This  day  we  made  about  eighteen  miles. 
For  ten  miles  the  road  is  very  good.  Along  the  stream 
is  found  willow  brush,  answering  for  fuel.  The  last 
seven  miles  is  over  a  sandy  plain;  it  was  dry,  and  very 
heavy  traveling.  Our  camp  was  at  a  large  spring  of 
cold  water;  grazing  was  very  good. 

August  8.  We  traveled  but  five  miles,  which  brought 
us  to  Fort  Hall."  This  is  a  trading  post  in  the  posses- 
sion of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Like  the  forts  on 
the  east  side  of  the  mountains,  it  is  built  of  mud  or 
adobes.  (This  term  applies  to  sun-burnt  brick.)  They 
are  of  a  similar  construction.  At  each  corner  is  a 
bastion,  projecting  out  some  eight  or  ten  feet,  perforated 
with  holes  for  fire-arms.  Captain  Grant  is  now  the 
officer  in  command;  he  has  the  bearing  of  a  gentleman.^ 
The  garrison  was  supplied  with  flour,  which  had  been 
procured  from  the  settlements  in  Oregon,  and  brought 
here  on  pack  horses.  They  sold  it  to  the  emigrants 
for  twenty  dollars  per  cwt.,  taking  cattle  in  exchange; 
and  as  many  of  the  emigrants  were  nearly  out  of  flour, 
and  had  a  few  lame  cattle,  a  brisk  trade  was  carried  on 
between  them  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  fort.  In  the 
exchange  of  cattle  for  flour,  an  allowance  was  made 
of  from  five  to  twelve  dollars  per  head.  They  also  had 

81  The  entire  route  from  Soda  Springs  at  the  bend  of  Bear  River  to  Fort 
Hall  was  about  fifty  miles  in  length,  crossing  the  basaltic,  volcanic  plateau 
which  Palmer  describes,  to  the  waters  of  Portneuf  River,  down  which  the 
trail  passed  to  Fort  Hall.  For  the  founding  of  this  post  see  Townsend's 
Narrative,  in  our  volume  xxi,  pp.  209-211. —  ED. 

M  Captain  James  Grant  was  Hudson's  Bay  factor  in  charge  at  Fort  Hall  for 
several  years  during  the  immigration  movement.  Most  of  the  travellers  speak 
of  his  courtesy  and  readiness  to  assist.  He  was  at  this  post  in  1842,  when 
Matthieu  describes  him  as  a  large  man,  resembling  Dr.  McLoughlin  —  Oregon 
Historical  Quarterly,  i,  p.  84.  He  seems  to  have  later  settled  in  Oregon. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  87 

horses  which  they  readily  exchanged  for  cattle  or  sold 
for  cash.  The  price  demanded  for  horses  was  from 
fifteen  to  twenty-five  dollars.  They  could  not  be  pre- 
vailed upon  to  receive  anything  in  exchange  for  their 
goods  or  provisions,  excepting  cattle  or  money. 

The  bottoms  here  are  wide,  and  covered  with  grass. 
There  is  an  abundance  of  wood  for  fuel,  fencing,  and 
other  purposes.  [43]  No  attempt  has,  as  yet,  been 
made  to  cultivate  the  soil.  I  think  the  drought  too 
great;  but  if  irrigation  were  resorted  to,  I  doubt  not  it 
would  produce  some  kinds  of  grain,  such  as  wheat, 
corn,  potatoes,  &c. 

Our  camp  was  located  one  mile  to  the  south-west 
of  the  fort;  and  as  at  all  the  other  forts,  the  Indians 
swarmed  about  us.  They  are  of  the  Snake  tribe,  and 
inhabit  the  country  bordering  on  Lewis  and  Bear  rivers, 
and  their  various  tributaries.  This  tribe  is  said  to  be 
numerous;  but  in  consequence  of  the  continual  wars 
which  they  have  engaged  in  with  the  Sioux,  Crows  and 
Blackfeet,  their  numbers  are  rapidly  diminishing. 

Snake  river,  which  flows  within  one  half  mile  of  the 
fort,  is  a  clear  and  beautiful  stream  of  water."  It 
courses  over  a  pebbly  bottom.  Its  width  is  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards.  It  abounds  in  fish  of  different 
varieties,  which  are  readily  taken  with  the  hook. 

While  we  remained  in  this  place,  great  efforts  were 
made  to  induce  the  emigrants  to  pursue  the  route  to 
California.  The  most  extravagant  tales  were  related 
respecting  the  dangers  that  awaited  a  trip  to  Oregon, 
and  of  the  difficulties  and  trials  to  be  surmounted.  The 

63  For  a  brief  description  of  Snake  (or  Lewis)  River,  see  our  volume  xxviii, 
p.  303,  note  179. —  ED. 


88  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

perils  of  the  way  were  so  magnified  as  to  make  us  suppose 
the  journey  to  Oregon  almost  impossible.  For  instance, 
the  two  crossings  of  Snake  river,  and  the  crossing  of  the 
Columbia,  and  other  smaller  streams,  were  represented 
as  being  attended  with  great  danger;  also  that  no  com- 
pany heretofore  attempting  the  passage  of  these  streams, 
succeeded,  but  with  the  loss  of  men,  from  the  violence 
and  rapidity  of  the  current;  as  also  that  they  had  never 
succeeded  in  getting  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  head 
of  cattle  into  the  Willamette  valley.  In  addition  to  the 
above,  it  was  asserted  that  three  or  four  tribes  of  Indians, 
in  the  middle  region,  had  combined  for  the  purpose 
of  preventing  our  passage  through  their  country,  and 
should  we  attempt  it,  we  would  be  compelled  to  contend 
with  these  hostile  tribes.  In  case  we  escaped  destruc- 
tion at  the  hands  of  the  savages,  a  more  fearful  enemy, 
that  of  famine,  would  attend  our  march;  as  the  distance 
was  so  great  that  winter  would  overtake  us  before 
making  the  passage  of  the  Cascade  Mountains. 

On  the  other  hand,  as  an  inducement  to  pursue  the 
California  route,  we  were  informed  of  the  shortness 
of  the  route,  when  compared  with  that  to  Oregon;  as 
also  of  many  other  superior  advantages  it  possessed. 

[44]  These  tales,  told  and  rehearsed,  were  likely  to  pro- 
duce the  effect  of  turning  the  tide  of  emigration  thither. 
Mr.  Greenwood,  an  old  mountaineer,  well  stocked  with 
falsehoods,  had  been  dispatched  from  California  to 
pilot  the  emigrants  through;64  and  assisted  by  a  young 

M  This  attempt  to  deflect  Oregon  immigrants  to  California  arose  from  the 
unsettled  conditions  in  that  Mexican  province,  and  the  determination  of  earlier 
American  settlers  to  secure  California  for  the  United  States.  Caleb  Green- 
wood, who  was  sent  to  Fort  Hall  from  Sutter's  Fort  (Sacramento),  was  an  aged 
mountaineer  and  trapper,  who  reared  a  half-breed  family  by  a  wife  of  the 


1845-1846]*  Palmer's  'Journal  89 

man  by  the  name  of  McDougal,  from  Indiana,  so  far 
succeeded  as  to  induce  thirty-five  or  thirty-six  wagons 
to  take  that,  trail.95 

About  fifteen  wagons  had  been  fitted  out,  expressly 
for  California;  and,  joined  by  the  thirty-five  afore- 
mentioned, completed  a  train  of  fifty  wagons;  what  the 
result  of  their  expedition  has  been,  I  have  not  been  able 
to  learn.66 

August  9.  This  day  we  traveled  about  eight  miles; 
five  miles  brought  us  to  the  crossing  of  Portneth.  This 
is  a  stream  heading  in  the  mountains  near  the  Soda 
Springs,  receiving  numerous  branches  in  this  bottom, 
and  is  here  about  eighty  yards  in  width.67  From  this 
place,  it  is  one  mile  to  the  crossing  of  a  narrow  slough, 
with  steep  banks.  We  crossed,  and  journeyed  two 

Crow  tribe.  In  1844  he  guided  the  Stevens  party  to  California,  and  during 
the  winter  of  1844-45  served  in  Sutler's  division  of  Micheltorena's  army  against 
Alvarado  and  Castro.  Sutter  wrote  in  regard  to  his  mission,  "I  am  glad 
that  they  meet  with  some  good  pilots  at  Fort  Hall  who  went  there  from  here 
to  pilot  emigrants  by  the  new  road." —  ED. 

88  George  McDougall  was  a  native  of  Ohio,  but  started  on  his  journey 
from  Indiana.  He  conducted  the  advance  party  of  young  men  known  as  the 
Swasey-Todd  party,  over  the  Truckee  route  to  Sutter's,  leaving  Fort  Hall 
about  August  13,  and  arriving  at  New  Helvetia  late  in  September.  McDougall 
served  the  next  year  in  the  California  battalion,  and  was  known  to  have  been 
at  San  Francisco  in  1847-48.  He  several  times  returned  East,  and  after  1853 
became  a  confirmed  wanderer,  being  found  in  Patagonia  in  1867.  He  is 
thought  to  have  died  at  Washington,  D.  C.,  in  1872.  He  was  eccentric,  but 
brave,  and  a  favorite  with  the  frontier  population.  Many  of  the  emigrants 
who  turned  off  at  Fort  Hall  for  California  went  overland  to  Oregon  the  next 
year.  Consult  H.  H.  Bancroft,  History  oj  Oregon  (San  Francisco,  1886),  i, 
p.  522.  —  ED. 

88  The  writer  has  recently  learned  that  the  emigrants  alluded  to,  not  find- 
ing California  equal,  in  point  of  soil,  to  their  high  wrought  anticipations, 
have  made  the  best  of  their  way  to  Oregon. —  PALMER. 

87  For  another  description  of  Portneuf  (not  Portneth)  River  see  De  Smet's 
Letters  in  our  volume  xxvii,  p.  249,  with  accompanying  note. —  ED. 


90  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

miles  to  the  bank  of  Snake  river,  where  we  encamped. 
Eight  wagons  joined  us  at  our  encampment. 

August  10.    We  remained  in  camp. 

August  ii.  This  day  we  traveled  about  eight  miles; 
which  brought  us  to  within  one  mile  of  the  American 
falls.88  Our  camp  was  at  the  springs.  An  island 
in  the  river  afforded  excellent  grazing  for  cattle.  The 
country  is  extremely  barren,  being  sandy  sage  plains." 

August  12.  We  traveled  about  fifteen  miles,  which 
brought  us  to  Levy  creek,  or  Beaver-dam  creek,  as  it 
is  sometimes  termed;  it  is  a  small  stream;  its  waters 
flow  down  a  succession  of  falls,  producing  a  handsome 
cascade:  it  has  the  appearance  of  having  been  built 
up  by  beaver.  The  property  of  the  water  has  turned 
the  material  into  stone;  the  water  appears  to  be  impreg- 
nated with  soda;  the  rocks  along  the  bank  are  of  that 
formation.70  The  best  camp  is  two  miles  farther  on. 

August  13.  This  day  we  traveled  about  eight  miles, 
to  Cassia  creek;  here  the  California  trail  turns  off.  The 
road  [45]  has  been  very  dusty  and  heavy  traveling. 
The  country  presents  the  same  usual  barren  appearance.71 

88  These  falls  derive  their  name  from  the  following  circumstance.  A 
number  of  American  trappers  going  down  this  stream  in  their  canoes,  not  being 
aware  of  their  proximity  to  the  falls,  were  hurried  along  by  the  violence  of 
the  current;  and  passing  over  the  falls,  but  one  of  the  number  survived. — 
PALMER. 

69  The  trail  from  Fort  Hall  led  down  the  eastern  and  southern  bank  of  the 
Lewis;  see  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  310,  note  190.    American  Falls  is  a  well- 
known  landmark,  flowing  over  a  rock  about  forty  feet  in  height;  see  Fremont's 
"  Exploring  Tour"  (op.  tit.  in  note  30),  p.  164,  for  an  engraving  thereof .     The 
once  barren  land  of  this  region  is  now  being  made  fertile  by  irrigation. —  ED. 

70  Fall  Creek,  in  Oneida  County,  so  called  by  Fr&nont,  and  still  known 
by  this  name.     Its  bed  is  composed  of  calcareous  tufa,  chiefly  the  remains 
of  reeds  and  mosses,  forming  a  beautiful  succession  of  cascades. —  ED. 

n  Cassia  Creek  is  an  important  western  affluent  of  Raft  River,  of  Cassia 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  91 

August  14.  This  day  we  traveled  about  fifteen  miles, 
and  reached  marshy  springs;  the  road  has  been  stony 
and  dusty;  the  country  mostly  destitute  of  vegetation  — 
nothing  growing  but  the  wild  sage  and  wormwood.72 

August  15.  We  traveled  but  eleven  miles.  The  road 
runs  over  a  sage  plain  for  eight  miles,  when  it  crosses 
the  stream  from  the  marsh;  no  water  running,  and  but 
little  standing  in  pools.  At  the  distance  of  three  miles 
the  road  strikes  the  river  bottom,  at  the  lower  end  of 
this,  at  which  place  the  road  leaves  it;  here  was  found 
a  good  camp. 

August  1 6.  We  traveled  about  twenty- three  miles. 
Four  miles  brought  us  to  Goose  creek.  We  found 
difficulty  in  crossing,  and  no  good  location  for  a  camp.78 
After  seven  miles  travel  we  reached  the  river;  but  little 
grass.  Twelve  miles  brought  us  to  Dry  Branch;  here 
also  was  unsuitable  ground  for  encamping,  as  the  water 
was  standing  in  pools.  The  road  we  traveled  was 
very  dusty,  and  portions  of  it  quite  stony;  here  the 
river  runs  through  a  rocky  kanyon.  The  cliffs  are 
sometimes  of  the  height  of  one  thousand  feet,  and  nearly 

County,  Idaho.  Upon  its  banks  was  the  earliest  settlement  in  this  region, 
and  the  valley  is  still  noted  for  its  farms.  The  first  party  to  take  this  route  to 
California  was  that  of  J.  B.  Chiles  (1843),  guided  by  Joseph  Walker.  They 
struck  across  from  the  Snake  to  Humboldt  River,  down  that  stream  to  its 
sink,  and  by  the  Walker  Pass  into  California.  In  1844  the  Stevens  party 
followed  a  similar  route;  crossing  the  Sierras,  however,  by  Truckee  and  Bear 
River  road,  the  line  of  the  present  Central  Pacific  railway. —  ED. 

72  Called  by  Fr&nont  Swamp  Creek,  now  known  as  Marsh  Creek,  a  small 
southern  affluent  of  the  Lewis.  It  forms  a  circular  basin  or  valley,  about  six 
miles  in  diameter,  where  there  was  grass  and  consequently  a  good  camping 
place. —  ED. 

71  Goose  Creek  is  a  deep,  rocky  stream  rising  in  Goose  Creek  range,  lying 
on  the  border  between  Idaho  and  Utah.  The  creek  flows  north,  receiving 
several  branches  before  entering  the  Lewis  in  Cassia  County.  Placer  mines 
of  considerable  value  have  been  found  on  this  creek. —  ED. 


92  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

perpendicular.74  Above  the  kanyon,  the  river  is  two 
or  three  hundred  yards  wide;  but  at  this  place  it  is  not 
more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet;  and  at  one  place, 
where  there  is  a  fall  of  some  twenty  feet,  its  width  does 
not  exceed  seventy-five  feet.  In  our  march  this  day 
I  attempted  to  get  down  to  the  river,  to  procure  a  drink 
of  water,  but  for  six  miles  was  unable  to  do  so,  owing 
to  the  steep  precipitous  banks. 

August  17.  We  traveled  but  eight  miles.  The  road 
lay  over  a  sage  plain  to  the  bottom  on  Rock  creek.76 
Here  we  found  a  very  good  camp. 

August  18.  This  day  we  traveled  about  twenty 
miles.  After  the  distance  of  eight  miles  we  arrived 
at  the  crossing  of  Rock  creek,  (in  a  kanyon?)  here  we 
halted  for  dinner,  and  gave  our  cattle  water.  We  then 
took  up  the  bluff,  and  traveled  over  sand  and  sage  plains 
for  about  twelve  miles.  When  night  overtook  us  we 
drove  to  the  top  of  the  river  bluff  and  encamped.  We 


74  Dry  Creek  is  still  to  be  found  on  the  maps  of  Cassia  County.  Fr&nont  says 
of  this  portion  of  the  trail:  "All  the  day  the  course  of  the  river  has  been 
between  walls  of  black  volcanic  rock,  a  dark  line  of  the  escarpment  on  the 
opposite  side  pointing  out  its  course,  and  sweeping  along  in  foam  at  places 
where  the  mountains  which  border  the  valley  present  always  on  the  left  two 
ranges,  the  lower  one  a  spur  of  the  higher;  and  on  the  opposite  side,  the  Salmon 
River  mountains  are  visible  at  a  great  distance."  (See  op.  tit.,  ante,  in  note  30, 
p.  167.)  —  ED. 

n  The  falls  mentioned  by  Palmer  are  the  Great  Shoshone  Falls  of  the 
Lewis  River,  where  the  canon  is  over  eight  hundred  feet  deep:  the  first  fall 
has  a  plunge  of  thirty  feet,  and  then  a  sheer  descent  of  a  hundred  and  ninety. 
These  are,  in  the  United  States,  exceeded  in  grandeur  only  by  Niagara  and 
the  Yosemite.  Palmer's  failure  to  appreciate  their  height  and  magnificence 
was  probably  due  to  the  depth  of  the  canon  from  the  top  of  which  he  viewed 
them;  or  he  may  not  have  seen  the  lower  falls  at  all,  for  the  trail  wound  back 
from  the  river  in  many  places. 

Rock  Creek  is  a  considerable  stream,  with  a  swift  current,  flowing  north- 
west into  the  Lewis  in  Cassia  County,  Idaho. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  93 

drove  our  cattle  one  and  a  half  miles  down  the  bluff 
to  the  river  for  water.  Here  we  found  a  little  grass  and 
green  brush,  but  it  was  not  sufficient  in  quantity  to 
supply  our  cattle,  and  we  could  do  no  better.  We 
packed  water  up  the  bluff  to  our  camp.  The  bluffs 
at  this  place  exceed  one  thousand  feet  in  height;  they 
are  of  basalt.  The  road  is  on  a  high  barren  [46] 
plain;  a  range  of  mountains  is  on  our  left  hard  by, 
and  at  a  great  distance  on  our  right  another  range 
appears. 

August  19.  We  traveled  about  twelve  miles.  Nine 
miles  brought  us  to  where  we  pass  down  to  the  river 
bottom;  from  this  point  the  distance  to  the  river  was 
three  miles.  A  warm  spring  branch  empties  itself  into 
the  river  at  this  place.  Emigrants  would  pursue  a  more 
proper  course  by  encamping  on  the  bottom,  near  the 
source  of  Rock  creek,  then  drive  down  to  where  the 
road  crosses  in  a  kanyon,  then  following  the  road  for 
eight  or  nine  miles  to  where  the  road  leaves  the  bluff 
of  the  creek  and  encamp,  driving  their  cattle  into  the 
creek  bottom.  From  this  place  they  can  drive  to  Salmon 
Fall  creek,  just  four  miles  below  our  present  encamp- 
ment, follow  down  this  creek  to  its  mouth,  where  will 
be  found  an  excellent  camp. 

August  20.  We  traveled  about  nine  miles,  reaching 
the  Salmon  Falls.76  Here  are  eighteen  or  twenty  Indian 
huts.  Salmon  come  up  to  these  falls:  the  Indians 

78  Salmon  Falls  River  is  the  largest  southern  affluent  of  the  Lewis  that  has 
been  crossed  since  leaving  Fort  Hall.  It  rises  in  many  branches  on  the  bounda- 
ries of  Nevada  and  flows  north  through  a  valley  now  noted  as  a  hay-  and  stock- 
raising  section.  Salmon  Falls  (also  called  Fishing  Falls)  is  a  series  of  cataracts 
with  sharply  inclined  planes,  forming  a  barrier  to  the  ascent  of  the  salmon, 
and  thus  a  fishing  resort  for  Indians. —  ED. 


94  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

have  an  abundance  of  them,  which  they  very  readily 
dispose  of  for  hooks,  powder,  balls,  clothing,  calico 
and  knives,  and  in  fact  for  almost  anything  we  have 
at  our  disposal. 

The  river  at  this  place  is  a  succession  of  cataracts 
for  several  miles,  the  highest  of  which  does  not  exceed 
twelve  feet.  The  grazing  was  very  poor,  and  the  country 
barren  as  usual. 

August  21.  We  traveled  about  twelve  miles;  for  two 
miles  the  road  is  up  a  sandy  hill,  it  then  strikes  a  sandy 
sage  plain,  over  which  it  takes  its  course  for  ten  miles. 
Here  night  overtook  us,  as  we  had  commenced  our  march 
at  a  very  late  hour  on  account  of  having  lost  some  horses. 
Our  camp  was  on  the  top  of  the  river  bluff.  It  is  one 
mile  to  water;  but  little  grass  was  found.  This  day 
we  found  several  head  of  cattle  that  had  given  out  from 
fatigue  of  traveling.  Some  of  the  companies  had  been 
racing,  endeavoring  to  pass  each  other,  and  now  they 
have  reached  a  region  where  but  little  grass  is  found 
—  are  beginning  to  reap  the  reward  of  their  folly. 

August  22.  Our  cattle  were  so  much  scattered  that 
it  was  late  in  the  day  when  we  prepared  to  resume  our 
march.  We  traveled  about  ten  miles.  At  night  we 
left  the  road,  and  directed  our  course  to  the  right,  down 
a  ravine  to  the  river,  where  we  encamped.  Our  cattle 
suffered  much  for  want  of  food. 

August  23.  This  morning  we  turned  up  the  ravine 
for  one  and  a  half  miles,  and  then  struck  up  the  hill 
to  the  road.  Three  and  a  half  miles  brought  us  to 
where  the  road  crosses  [47]  the  Snake  river.  In  com- 
ing down  to  the  river  bottom,  there  is  a  very  steep  hill. 
Along  the  shore  of  this  river  was  a  little  grass;  there 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  95 

are  two  islands  covered  with  grass,  so  that  our  cattle 
were  soon  repaid  for  their  privations  heretofore.  The 
difficulties  attending  the  crossing  of  this  stream  had  been 
represented  as  being  almost  insurmountable;  but  upon 
examination  we  found  it  an  exaggeration.  From  the 
main  shore  to  first  island  there  is  no  difficulty;  from 
first  to  second  island,  turn  well  up,  until  nearly  across, 
then  bear  down  to  where  the  road  enters  it.  The 
water  is  not  deep  until  nearly  across,  and  not  then  if 
you  keep  well  up  stream.  From  second  island  to  main 
shore  is  more  difficult;  it  is  about  three  hundred 
yards  wide  and  the  current  very  rapid.  Strike  in, 
heading  well  up  for  two  rods,  then  quartering  a  little 
down  until  eight  or  ten  rods  from  shore:  then  quarter- 
ing a  little  up  for  fifteen  or  twenty  rods;  then  strike 
up  for  the  coming  out  place;  the  bottom  is  gravelly. 
With  the  exception  of  a  few  holes,  the  water  for  the 
first  fifteen  rods  is  the  deepest  part  of  the  ford.  The 
bottom  is  very  uneven;  there  are  holes  found  of  six 
or  eight  feet  in  width,  many  of  them  swimming.  Those 
crossing  this  stream  can  escape  the  deepest  of  these 
holes  by  having  horsemen  in  the  van  and  at  each  side; 
it  is  necessary  that  there  be  attached  to  each  wagon 
four  or  six  yoke  of  oxen,  the  current  being  swift;  and 
in  the  passage  of  these  holes,  previously  alluded  to, 
when  one  yoke  is  compelled  to  swim,  the  others  may 
be  in  shallow  water.  Great  care  must  be  taken  that 
these  teams  be  not  beat  down  too  low  and  pass  over 
the  ripple ;  and  to  prevent  such  a  casualty,  two  drivers 
must  attend  each  wagon.  Before  attempting  the  passage 
of  the  river  all  articles  liable  to  damage,  from  coming 
in  contact  with  the  water,  should  be  piled  on  the  top 


96  Early  Western  Trawls  [Vol.  30 

of  the  wagon  bed.  We  commenced  crossing  at  eleven 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  and  at  one  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  effected 
the  passage  of  the  stream,  and  were  so  fortunate  as  to 
land  our  goods  free  from  all  damage.  We  traveled  two 
miles  to  a  spring  branch  and  pitched  our  encampment. 
Good  grass,  wood  and  water,  were  procured  in  plenty.77 

August  24.  We  traveled  but  six  miles.  Soon  after 
leaving  camp  we  directed  our  course  up  a  stony  hill; 
thence  over  a  sage  plain  to  a  spring  branch.78  We 
pursued  our  way  up  this  branch  for  one  mile,  where 
we  obtained  good  grazing  for  our  cattle;  a  high  range 
of  hills  appearing  on  our  right,  at  the  distance  of  two 
miles,  an  occasional  grove  of  pine  timber  upon  them; 
but,  in  general,  the  mountains  here  are  covered  with 
[48]  grass;  numerous  streams  issuing  from  their  sides, 
and  pouring  their  waters  in  the  plain  below.  There 
is  no  appearance  of  vegetation  until  you  reach  the  low 
bottoms  immediately  along  the  water's  edge.  The 
road  traveled  to-day  was  quite  stony. 

The  Indians  along  this  road  are  expert  in  theft  and 
roguery.  A  young  man  having  a  horse  which  he  had 
taken  much  pains  to  get  along,  when  night  approached, 
staked  and  hobbled  him,  that  he  might  not  stray  off;  but 
at  night  an  Indian  stole  into  the  camp,  unhobbled  the 
horse,  cut  the  rope,  and  took  him  off,  leaving  the  young 
man  undisturbed  in  his  sleep.  A  few  days  thereafter, 
this  Indian  effected  a  sale  of  the  horse  to  one  of  a  party 
of  emigrants  traveling  behind  us. 

August  25.    We  remained  in  camp. 

77  For  this  crossing  see  our  volume  xzviii,  p.  314,  note  193. —  ED. 

78  The  emigrants  were  in  Elmore  County,  Idaho,  where  a  number  of  small 
streams  come  from  the  north  into  Lewis  River;  one  is  known  as  Cold  Spring 
Creek,  possibly  the  branch  mentioned  by  Palmer. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  "Journal  97 

August  26.  We  traveled  about  ten  miles;  our  camp 
was  located  on  a  small  rivulet,  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile's 
distance  above  the  road,  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  Hot 
Spring  branch.  Between  the  road  and  the  mountain 
good  grazing  was  found.  The  river  is  about  eight  miles 
on  our  left;  the  space  between  is  a  barren,  sandy  sage 
plain. 

August  27.  We  traveled  about  sixteen  miles;  one 
mile  brought  us  to  the  Hot  Springs,  near  which  the  road 
passes.79  These  springs  are  in  a  constant  state  of  ebulli- 
tion. They  number  from  five  to  six,  extending  over  a 
surface  of  two  to  three  yards,  all  uniting  and  forming 
a  stream  of  one  yard  in  width  and  about  three  inches 
deep,  running  quite  rapid.  The  water  is  sufficiently 
hot  for  culinary  purposes.  About  fifteen  rods  off, 
approaching  the  mountain,  which  is  half  a  mile  distant, 
are  similar  springs,  the  waters  of  which  flow  into  a  reser- 
voir a  short  distance  below.  An  ox,  belonging  to  our 
party,  appeared  desirous  to  test  the  qualities  of  the  water 
afforded  by  these  springs.  His  owners,  seeing  his  incli- 
nation, attempted  to  arrest  his  steps,  but  failed;  when 
he  arrived  at  the  brink  of  one  of  them,  and  stuck  his 
nose  in,  preparatory  to  indulging  in  a  draught  of  the 
delicious  nectar,  he  immediately  wheeled,  and  made 
the  welkin  ring  by  his  bellowing;  kicking  and  running, 
he  showed  he  was  evidently  displeased  with  himself. 
Our  camp  was  on  Barrel  creek  bottom,  which  is  very 
narrow. 

August  28.  We  traveled  about  eighteen  miles,  cross- 
ing several  running  branches.  The  road  is  near  the  base 

71  For  these  springs  see  Farnham's  Travels  in  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  314, 
note  194. —  ED. 


98  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

of  the  mountain;  wild  sage  and  grease  wood  found  in 
plenty.  Encamped  on  Charlotte's  fork,  a  small  branch. 

August  29.  We  traveled  about  eighteen  miles,  which 
brought  us  to  Bois  river,  a  stream  of  forty  or  fifty  yards 
in  [49]  width,  and  abounding  in  salmon;  its  banks  are 
lined  with  Balm  of  Gilead  timber.80  The  bottoms 
here  are  two  or  three  miles  wide,  and  covered  with 
grass. 

August  30.  We  traveled  about  eleven  miles.  The 
road  is  sometimes  on  bottom,  at  others,  on  bluff.  The 
Indians  are  very  numerous  along  this  stream;  they 
have  a  large  number  of  horses;  clothing  is  in  much 
demand;  for  articles  of  clothing  costing  in  the  States 
ten  or  twelve  dollars,  a  very  good  horse  can  be  obtained. 

August  31.  We  traveled  about  14  miles.  The  road 
pursues  its  course  down  the  valley  of  the  Bois  river. 

September  i.  We  traveled  about  thirteen  miles.  Two 
miles  from  camp  we  crossed  Bois  river.  Some  of  the 
bottoms  are  covered  with  grass,  others  with  wild  sage 
and  grease  wood.  The  road  was  very  dusty.  There 
is  not  much  timber  along  the  stream,  but  great  quantities 
of  brush. 

September  2.  We  reached  Fort  Bois.  This  is  a  trad- 
ing post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  established 
upon  the  northern  side  of  Snake  or  Lewis  river,  and  one 
mile  below  the  mouth  of  Bois  river.  This  fort  was 
erected  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting,  or  as  an  inter- 
mediate post,  more  than  as  a  trading  point.  It  is  built 
of  the  same  materials,  and  modeled  after  Fort  Hall, 


80  For  Boise  River  see  our  volume  xri,  p.  249,  note  63.  The  trail  approached 
this  stream  near  the  present  site  of  Boise  City,  and  followed  its  banks  to  Lewis 
River. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  'Journal  99 

but  is  of  a  smaller  compass.  Portions  of  the  bottoms 
around  it  afford  grazing;  but,  in  a  general  view,  the 
surrounding  country  is  barren.81 

North  of  this  fort  is  an  extensive  plain,  which  has 
an  extremely  unfertile  appearance;  but,  I  am  informed, 
that  during  the  winter  and  spring  months  it  affords 
good  grazing.  At  this  fort  they  have  a  quantity  of  flour 
in  store,  brought  from  OREGON  CITY,  for  which  they 
demanded  twenty  dollars  per  cwt,  in  cash;  a  few  of 
our  company  being  in  extreme  want,  were  obliged  to 
purchase  at  this  exorbitant  price.  At  this  place  the 
road  crosses  the  river;  the  ford  is  about  four  hundred 
yards  below  the  fort,  and  strikes  across  to  the  head  of 
an  island,  then  bears  to  the  left  to  the  southern  bank; 
the  water  is  quite  deep,  but  not  rapid;  it  swam  some 
of  our  smallest  work  cattle;  the  bottom  is  solid  and 
smooth.  We  cut  poles,  and  laid  them  across  the  top 
of  our  wagon-beds,  piling  our  loading  on  them;  answer- 
ing a  twofold  purpose  —  preventing  our  loading  from 
damage,  as  also  by  its  weight  keeping  the  wagons  steady 
and  guarding  them  against  floating.  In  about  three 
hours  we  effected  our  passage  in  safety,  but  few  of  the 
goods  getting  wet.  We  went  up  the  bottom  a  half  mile, 
and  there  encamped;  [50]  driving  our  cattle  on  an  is- 
land hard  by,  to  graze.  Fort  Bois  is  about  two  hundred 
and  eighty  miles  below  Fort  Hall,  following  the  wagon 
road;  but  by  crossing  the  river  at  Fort  Hall,  and  going 
down  on  the  north  side,  the  distance  would  be  lessened, 
as  the  river  bears  off  south,  and  then  north;  and  judg- 
ing from  the  appearance  of  the  country,  I  think  a  road 

81  For  a  brief  sketch  of  Fort  Boise  see  Farnham's  Travels  in  our  volume 
zxviii,  p.  321,  note  199. —  ED. 


I  oo  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

may  be  found,  equal,  if  not  better  than  the  one  on  the 
south  side;  and,  I  doubt  not,  the  grazing  will  be  found 
better.82 

September  3.  We  traveled  fifteen  miles,  to  Malheur, 
or  Malore,  as  it  is  sometimes  called:  here  is  a  good 
camp.  This  is  a  stream  of  about  ten  yards  in  width, 
having  its  source  in  a  range  of  mountains  to  the  south- 
west, and  pursuing  its  meanderings  through  a  succession 
of  hills,  sage  and  sand  plains,  and  occasionally  a  fertile 
bottom,  until  it  arrives  at  Snake  river,  into  which  it 
empties.  A  few  miles  below  Fort  Bois,  its  course  from 
its  source  is  north  of  east.  Along  its  banks,  near  to 
where  the  road  crosses  it,  are  a  number  of  hot  springs; 
they  are  of  the  same  temperature  of  those  between  the 
two  crossings  of  Snake  river.88  Here  we  met  Dr.  White, 
.a  sub-Indian  agent,  accompanied  by  three  others,  on 
their  way  from  OREGON  to  the  STATES."  At  this  place 

81  This  northern  and  more  direct  route  was  followed  by  Wyeth  in  1834  — 
see  Townsend's  Narrative  in  our  volume  sod,  pp.  231-249.  He  found  the 
difficulties  of  the  passage  great,  and  the  longer  and  more  southern  route  was 
the  one  usually  followed. —  ED. 

M  For  Malheur  River  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  264,  note  64.  The  Hot  Springs 
are  noted  in  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  323,  note  202. —  ED. 

84  For  a  brief  sketch  of  the  life  of  Dr.  Elijah  White  see  Farnham's  Travels 
in  our  volume  xxix,  p.  20,  note  12.  He  was  at  this  time  returning  to  Wash- 
ington to  secure  the  settlement  of  his  accounts  as  Indian  sub-agent,  and  with 
the  hope  of  securing  further  preferment  —  if  possible,  the  governorship  of 
Oregon.  He  was  the  bearer  of  a  memorial  from  the  provisional  government 
of  Oregon,  requesting  Congress  to  extend  the  sovereignty  and  laws  of  the  United 
States  over  the  Oregon  settlements.  See  Cong.  Globe,  29  Cong.,  i  sess.,  p.  24. 
Later  advices  from  Oregon,  however,  frustrated  the  plans  of  Dr.  White,  who 
was  retired  to  private  life.  On  his  return  his  companions  across  the  plains 
(1845)  were  William  Chapman  and  Orris  Brown  of  the  immigration  of  1843, 
and  Joseph  Charles  Saxton  of  1844.  Only  Brown  returned  to  Oregon;  he 
went  back  in  1846  accompanied  by  his  own  family,  and  that  of  his  mother, 
Mrs.  Tabitha  Brown,  who  was  connected  with  the  history  of  early  education 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  101 

are  two  trails;  the  fork  is  in  the  bottom  above  the  cross- 
ing of  the  creek,  and  there  is  a  possibility  of  emigrants 
pursuing  the  wrong  route.  I  do  not  deem  it  amiss 
to  give  some  particulars  in  relation  to  this  road.  Mr. 
Meek,  who  had  been  engaged  as  our  pilot,  but  had 
previously  went  in  advance  of  the  companies  who  had 
employed  him,  and  who  had  after  reaching  Fort  Hall, 
fitted  up  a  party  to  pilot  through  to  Oregon,  informed 
the  emigrants  that  he  could,  by  taking  up  this  stream 
to  near  its  source,  and  then  striking  across  the  plains, 
so  as  to  intersect  the  old  road  near  to  the  mouth  of 
Deshutes  or  Falls  river,  save  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  travel;  also  that  he  was  perfectly  familiar 
with  the  country  through  which  the  proposed  route 
lay,  as  he  had  traveled  it;  that  no  difficulty  or  danger 
attended  its  travel.  He  succeeded  in  inducing  about 
two  hundred  families  to  pursue  this  route;  they  accord- 
ingly directed  their  course  to  the  left,  up  this  creek, 
about  ten  days  previous  to  our  arrival  at  the  forks. 

September  4.  We  traveled  about  twenty  miles;  ten 
miles  brought  us  to  a  sulphur  spring,  and  ten  miles 
more  to  Birch  creek,  where  we  encamped.85  The 
country  is  considerably  rolling,  and  much  of  it  barren: 
no  timber  found. 

September  5.  We  traveled  about  eight  miles;  three 
miles  [51]  brought  us  to  Snake  river,  and  five  more 

in  Oregon.  The  Brown  family  settled  at  Forest  Grove,  the  immigrant  of 
1843  finally  dying  at  Salem  in  1874.  White,  in  his  Ten  Years  in  Oregon 
(New  York,  1859),  p.  282,  speaks  of  meeting  a  party  (Palmer's)  near  Fort 
Boise,  who  brought  him  important  letters,  including  one  from  his  wife,  the 
first  received  in  fifteen  months. —  ED. 

86  Birch  Creek  (Riviere  aux  Bouleaux)  rises  in  Burnt  River  Mountains 
and  flows  southeast  into  Lewis  River,  in  Malheur  County,  Oregon. —  ED, 


IO2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

to  Burnt  river.  The  road  is  hilly  but  good;  the  country 
mountainous.  Here  is  a  good  camp. 

September  6.  We  made  about  twelve  miles.  The 
road  is  up  Burnt  river,  and  the  most  difficult  road  we  have 
encountered  since  we  started.  The  difficulties  arise  from 
the  frequent  crossings  of  the  creek,  which  is  crooked, 
narrow  and  stony.  We  were  often  compelled  to  follow 
the  road,  in  its  windings  for  some  distance,  over  high, 
sidelong  and  stony  ridges,  and  frequently  through 
thickets  of  brush.  The  stream  is  about  ten  or  twelve 
yards  in  width,  and  is  generally  rapid.  The  hills  are 
high,  and  covered  with  grass." 

September  7.  This  day  we  traveled  about  twelve 
miles.  The  road  exceeded  in  roughness  that  of  yester- 
day. Sometimes  it  pursued  its  course  along  the  bottom 
of  the  creek,  at  other  times  it  wound  its  way  along  the 
sides  of  the  mountains,  so  sidelong  as  to  require  the 
weight  of  two  or  more  men  on  the  upper  side  of 
the  wagons  to  preserve  their  equilibrium.  The  creek 
and  road  are  so  enclosed  by  the  high  mountains,  as  to 
afford  but  little  room  to  pass  along,  rendering  it  in  some 
places  almost  impassable.  Many  of  the  mountains 
viewed  from  here  seem  almost  perpendicular,  and  of 
course  present  a  barren  surface.  The  eye  is  occasion- 
ally relieved  by  a  few  scrubby  cedars;  but  along  the 
creek  is  found  birch,  bitter  cottonwood,  alder,  &c.,  in 
quantity,  and  several  kinds  of  brush  and  briars,  so 
impenetrable  as  to  preclude  ingress.  The  road  pursues 
its  course  through  these  thickets,  the  axe  having  been 
employed;  but  it  is  so  very  narrow  as  almost  to  prevent 

88  For  Burnt  River  and  the  course  of  the  trail  through  its  valley  see  Town- 
send's  description  in  our  volume  xxi,  pp.  267,  268. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  103 

travel.  A  little  digging,  and  the  use  of  the  axe,  united 
with  the  erection  of  bridges,  would  make  this  a  very  good 
road.  At  first  view  this  road  appeared  to  us  impassable, 
and  so  difficult  of  travel,  as  almost  to  deter  us  from  the 
attempt;  but  knowing  that  those  who  had  preceded  us 
had  surmounted  the  difficulties,  encouraged  us  to  per- 
severe. It  required  much  carefulness,  and  the  exercise 
of  skill  on  the  part  of  our  drivers  to  pass  along  and  avoid 
the  dangers  of  the  way.  We  pursued  our  route  with- 
out any  loss,  with  the  exception  of  that  attending  the 
breakage  of  two  wagon  tongues,  done  in  crossing  some 
deep  ravines.  We  also  experienced  difficulty  in  finding 
our  cattle,  which  had  strayed  away.  Five  miles  from 
camp  the  road  turns  up  a  spring  branch  to  the  right, 
which  we  followed  two  miles,  crossing  it  very  frequently; 
it  then  turns  up  the  mountain  of  the  left,  until  it  strikes 
another  ravine.  We  followed  [52]  up  this  for  one  mile, 
where  water  makes  its  appearance.  Here  is  found  a 
good  camp.  The  road  then  takes  to  the  left  up  the 
hill,  and  then  down  to  a  dry  branch:  here  is  a  good 
camp,  one  mile  to  running  water.  This  portion  of 
the  road  is  solid  and  of  good  travel. 

September  8.  This  day  we  traveled  about  fourteen 
miles.  Two  miles  brought  us  to  the  creek  again;  the 
bottom  here  is  of  some  extent.  We  followed  this  bottom 
for  the  distance  of  one  mile;  the  road  then  led  up  the 
right  hand  branch,  crossing  several  small  branches, 
taking  up  a  ravine  to  the  left  over  a  ridge,  until  it  reaches 
the  fork  of  the  river;  pursues  its  route  up  this  river  some 
six  or  seven  miles,  crossing  it  twice,  then  directs  its  course 
to  the  right,  through  a  narrow  ravine  over  the  mountain, 
then  strikes  Dry  Branch;  we  followed  up  this  branch 


1 04  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

to  running  water,  and  near  to  a  scrubby  pine;  here 
we  encamped.  The  road  has  been  solid  and  good. 
The  hills  and  valleys  appear  well  covered  with  grass. 

September  9.  This  day  we  traveled  about  sixteen 
miles.  The  road  runs  up  the  branch  for  one  mile,  then 
turns  to  the  left  over  the  hill,  pursuing  a  very  winding 
course  for  some  thirteen  miles,  until  it  reaches  a  slough 
in  Powder  river  bottoms.  Powder  river  is  a  stream 
of  some  eight  or  ten  yards  in  width,  having  its  source 
in  the  high  range  of  mountains  on  our  left,  which  moun- 
tains in  many  places  are  covered  with  snow.87  An 
abundance  of  pine  timber  is  found  covering  the  sides 
of  these  mountains,  sometimes  extending  far  down  into 
the  bottoms,  which  here  are  between  six  and  seven 
miles  in  width.  The  soil  is  fertile  and  would  undoubt- 
edly yield  abundantly. 

To  our  right,  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles, 
is  presented  a  high  range  of  mountains,  their  base  covered 
with  grass,  their  sides  with  heavy  pine  timber.  At 
their  summit  they  are  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation: 
some  of  these  are  very  lofty,  their  peaks  present  a  very 
lustrous  appearance,  resembling  the  snow  mountains. 
This  shining,  dazzling  appearance  they  possess,  is  de- 
rived I  think  from  the  material  of  which  they  are 
composed,  being  a  kind  of  white  clay. 

The  valley  between  Powder  river  and  this  range  is 
very  rolling,  portions  of  it  covered  with  wild  sage.  Wild 
fowl  abound  in  this  valley. 

September  10.  This  day  we  traveled  about  ten  miles; 
our  course  was  down  the  valley  of  Powder  river;  eight 

87  For  Powder  River  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  268,  note  68.    The  mountains 
seen  were  the  Blue;  see  a  brief  description  in  ibid.,  p.  273,  note  71. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  105 

miles  brought  us  to  the  crossing  of  the  same,  one 
mile  to  the  middle  [53]  fork,  and  one  to  the  third  fork. 
There  is  good  ground  for  encampments  at  any  point 
along  these  streams. 

At  our  camp  we  were  visited  by  an  Indian  chief  of 
the  tribe  Caaguas,88  accompanied  by  his  son.  He  was 
of  a  friendly  disposition;  his  object  in  visiting  us  was 
principally  to  barter  for  cattle;  he  had  in  his  possession 
thirty  or  more  horses. 

September  n.  This  day  we  traveled  about  twelve 
miles;  for  the  first  five  or  six  miles,  the  road  was  quite 
level  and  good,  it  then  follows  a  ridge  dividing  Powder 
river  and  Grand  Round;  this  portion  of  the  road  is 
very  uneven  and  stony.  The  road  leading  down  into 
the  valley  of  Grand  Round,  is  circuitous,  and  its  diffi- 
culty of  travel  enhanced  by  its  roughness;  it  is  about 
one  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  to  where  it  reaches  the 
bottom.  Grand  Round  is  a  valley,  whose  average 
width  does  not  exceed  twenty  miles,  and  is  about  thirty 
miles  in  length;  a  stream  of  water  of  some  twenty  yards 
in  width  passes  through  this  valley,  receiving  consider- 
able addition  to  its  volume  from  the  many  rivulets  that 
pour  down  their  waters  from  the  mountains,  by  which 
this  valley  is  enclosed.  The  bottoms  are  of  rich  friable 
earth,  and  afford  grass  of  various  kinds,  among  others 
that  of  red  clover.  There  is  a  root  here  found  in  great 
abundance,  and  known  as  the  camas,  which  is  held  in 
high  repute  by  the  Indians  for  some  medicinal  qualities 
it  is  thought  to  possess;  wild  flax  and  a  variety  of  other 
plants  grow  in  luxuriance,  like  to  those  I  have  observed 

88  Pronounced  Kiwaw  or  Kioose. —  PALMER. 

Comment  by  Ed.    For  the  Cayuse  see  our  volume  vii,  p.  137,  note  37. 


1 06  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

in  the  western  prairies.89  The  streams  are  generally 
lined  with  timber,  and  abound  in  salmon  and  other 
varieties  of  fish.  Upon  the  sides  of  the  mountains  and 
extending  down  into  the  valley  are  found  beautiful 
groves  of  yellow  pine  timber.  These  mountains  are 
places  of  resort  for  bear,  deer,  and  'elk. 

This  bottom  affords  an  excellent  situation  for  a  settle- 
ment, possessing  more  advantages  in  that  respect,  than 
any  found  since  our  departure  from  the  lower  Platte 
river.  North  of  this  and  at  the  distance  of  about  twenty 
miles,  is  another  valley,  similar  in  appearance  to  this, 
but  of  greater  extent.80  The  streams  having  their 
course  through  this  valley  empty  into  Lewis  river,  which 
is  eighty  or  ninety  miles  to  the  north.  Our  camp  was 
at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  convenient  to  a  spring  branch.  At 
twilight  we  were  visited  by  four  or  five  of  the  Caaguas, 
the  tribe  alluded  to  previously. 

An  incident  quite  worthy  of  note,  occurred  at  this 
place.  The  [54]  chief  (Aliquot  by  name)91  who  had 

88  For  the  valley  of  Grande  Ronde  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  271,  note  69. 
Consult  on  camas,  ibid.,  p.  247,  note  61. —  ED. 

90  This  northern  valley  is  the  lower  portion  of  the  Grande  Ronde.  Fre*- 
mont  says:  "We  passed  out  of  the  Grand  Rond  by  a  fine  road  along  the 
creek,  which,  for  a  short  distance,  runs  in  a  kind  of  rocky  chasm.  Crossing 
a  low  point,  which  was  a  little  rocky,  the  trail  conducted  into  the  open 
valley  of  the  stream  —  a  handsome  place  for  farms."  (op.  tit.  in  note 
30,  p.  179.)  This  is  now  the  most  flourishing  settlement  in  eastern  Oregon 
with  a  railway  running  through  the  valley  to  Elgin. —  ED. 

81  Probably  this  was  the  Cayuse  chief  Tiloukaikt,  who  had  early  come 
under  Dr.  Whitman's  influence,  but  nevertheless  was  treacherous,  and  unstable 
in  his  professions  of  Christianity.  In  1841  he  had  insulted  Dr.  Whitman 
because  of  the  punishment  of  one  of  his  nephews  by  a  missionary  teacher. 
In  1843  he  entered  into  the  treaty  with  some  reluctance,  and  in  1847  was  one 
of  the  principals  concerned  in  the  Whitman  massacre.  The  following  year 
he  was  one  of  the  five  chiefs  who  gave  themselves  up  to  the  civil  authorities, 
and  he  paid  the  penalty  of  his  murderous  instincts  upon  the  scaffold. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer 's  Journal  107 

joined  us  at  our  other  encampment,  and  had  pursued 
this  day's  journey  in  company,  had  pitched  his  tent 
some  three  hundred  yards  to  the  rear  of  our  camp.  In 
the  evening,  in  strolling  about  the  camp,  I  came  near 
his  tent,  and  entered  with  the  intention  of  employing 
his  squaw  in  the  soling  of  my  moccasins;  while  she 
was  engaged  in  this  employment,  a  conversation  had 
sprung  up  between  the  old  chief  and  myself,  in  which 
he  took  occasion  to  ask  me  if  I  were  a  Christian,  as  also 
whether  there  were  many  upon  the  road;  to  which 
questions  I  of  course  answered  in  the  affirmative,  suppos- 
ing that  he  merely  wished  to  know,  whether  I  classed 
myself  with  the  heathen  or  Christians.  On  my  return 
to  our  camp,  some  one  of  our  party  proposed  that  we 
should  while  away  an  hour  or  so,  in  a  game  at  cards, 
which  was  readily  assented  to.  We  had  but  engaged 
in  our  amusement,  when  the  old  chief  Aliquot  made 
his  appearance,  holding  a  small  stick  in  his  hand;  he 
stood  transfixed  for  a  moment,  and  then  advanced  to 
me,  raising  his  hand,  which  held  the  stick  in  the  act  of 
chastising  me,  and  gently  taking  me  by  the  arm,  said 
"Captain  —  Captain  —  no  good;  no  good."  You  may 
guess  my  astonishment,  at  being  thus  lectured  by  a  "wild 
and  untutored  savage,"  twenty  five  hundred  miles  from 
a  civilized  land.  I  inwardly  resolved  to  abandon  card 
playing  forever. 

September  12.  This  day  we  traveled  about  seven 
miles;  the  road  runs  across  the  upper  end  of  Grand 
round,  to  a  small  spring  branch,  when  it  again  ascends 
the  mountains.  At  this  spring  branch  we  pitched  our 
camp,  and  while  here,  were  visited  by  great  numbers  of 
Indians,  including  men,  squaws,  and  papooses.  These 


io8  Early  Western  Travels  [¥01.30 

Indians  have  decidedly  a  better  appearance  than  any 
I  have  met;  tall  and  athletic  in  form,  and  of  great  sym- 
metry of  person;  they  are  generally  well  clad,  and 
observe  pride  in  personal  cleanliness.  They  brought 
wheat,  corn,  potatoes,  peas,  pumpkins,  fish,  &c.  which 
they  were  anxious  to  dispose  of  for  cloths,  calico,  nankins 
and  other  articles  of  wearing  apparel;  they  also  had 
dressed  deer  skins  and  moccasins;  they  had  good  horses, 
which  they  offered  in  exchange  for  cows  and  heifers; 
they  would  gladly  exchange  a  horse  for  a  cow,  esteem- 
ing the  cow  as  of  equal  value.  They  remained  with 
us  throughout  the  day,  and  when  evening  approached 
returned  to  their  lodges  along  the  river  two  miles  distant. 
I  noticed  a  few  of  the  Nez  Perces  (Pierced  Noses)  tribe 
of  Indians  among  them.92  Both  of  these  tribes  are 
under  the  influence  and  control  of  two  Presbyterian 
missionaries,  Dr.  [55]  Whitman  and  Mr.  Spalding,  who 
have  resided  among  them  for  the  last  ten  years;  the 
former  among  the  Caaguas,  which  inhabit  the  country 
bordering  on  Wallawalla  river  and  its  tributaries,  the 
Blue  mountains  and  Grand  round:  the  latter  among  the 
Nez  Perces  who  inhabit  the  country  lying  along  Lewis 
river,  and  its  tributaries,  from  the  eastern  base  of  the 
Blue  mountains  to  the  Columbia  river.93  These  mission- 
ary establishments  are  of  a  like  character  to  those  farther 
north.  As  I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  of  these  mis- 
sionaries, as  also  the  beneficial  results  which  have  flowed 
from  their  residence  among  the  savages,  I  will  return 
to  my  travels. 

w  For  the  Nez  Perces  see  Franchere's  Narrative  in  our  volume  vi,  p.  340,. 
note  145. —  ED. 

M  For  Whitman  and  Spaulding  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  352,  note  125. —  ED> 


1845-! 846]  Palmer's  Journal  109 

Some  of  our  party  becoming  scant  of  provision, 
started  for  Dr.  Whitman's,  the  missionary  establish- 
ment referred  to  above,  intending  to  rejoin  us  at  Umatillo 
river,  my  old  friend  Aliquot  generously  proffered  his 
services  as  pilot  for  them,  which  were  readily  accepted. 

September  13.  This  day  we  traveled  about  seven 
miles.  From  Grand  Round  the  road  ascends  the  Blue 
mountains,  and  for  two  miles  is  quite  steep  and  pre- 
cipitous; and  to  such  an  extent,  as  to  require  six  yoke 
of  oxen,  or  more,  to  be  attached  to  a  wagon;  from  the 
summit  of  these  mountains  is  presented  a  rolling  country 
for  some  four  miles,  alternately  prairie  and  groves  of 
yellow  pine  timber.  In  the  prairie  the  grass  is  quite 
dry,  but  among  the  groves  of  timber  it  is  green  and 
flourishing.  The  road  is  very  stony;  at  the  end  of 
four  miles  it  takes  down  the  mountain  to  Grand  Round 
river,  one  mile  in  distance;  it  then  crosses.  Here  is 
another  bottom  covered  with  grass  and  bushes,  where 
we  pitched  our  encampment.  It  is  a  remarkable  circum- 
stance that  when  individuals  are  engaged  in  conversation, 
their  voices  can  be  heard  distinctly  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
distance;  the  discharge  of  a  gun  resembles  that  of  a 
cannon,  and  is  echoed  from  hill  to  hill,  the  reverbera- 
tions continuing  for  some  length  of  time. 

September  14.  This  day  we  traveled  about  ten  miles. 
The  road  ascended  the  mountain  for  one  and  a  half 
or  two  miles,  then  wound  along  the  ridge  crossing  many 
deep  ravines,  and  pursuing  its  route  over  high  craggy 
rocks;  sometimes  directing  its  course  over  an  open 
plain,  at  others  through  thick  groves  of  timber,  winding 
among  fallen  trees  and  logs,  by  which  the  road  was 
encumbered.  The  scenery  is  grand  and  beautiful, 


no  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

and  cannot  be  surpassed;  the  country  to  a  great  dis- 
tance is  rough  in  the  extreme.  It  may  strictly  be  termed 
a  timber  country,  although  many  small  prairies  are 
dotted  over  its  surface.  [56]  The  valleys  are  beautiful 
and  the  soil  presents  a  very  rich  appearance.  We 
encamped  in  an  opening,  on  the  south  side  of  a  range 
of  mountains  running  to  the  north,  and  found  water 
in  plenty  in  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  on  our  left,  about 
one  fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  road.  The  timber  grow- 
ing in  this  region  is  principally  yellow  pine,  spruce, 
balsam  fir,  and  hemlock;  among  the  bushes  I  noticed 
laurel. 

September  15.  This  day  we  traveled  about  nine  miles, 
over  the  main  ridge  of  the  Blue  Mountains.  It  is  mostly 
a  timbered  country  through  which  we  passed ;  the  scenery 
is  delightful,  resembling  in  grandeur  that  presented  on 
yesterday's  travel.94  We  had  a  fine  view  of  the  Cascade 
Mountains  to  the  west.  Mount  Hood,  the  loftiest  of 
these,  was  plain  to  the  view.  It  was  some  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  distant,  and  being  covered  with  snow, 
appeared  as  a  white  cloud  rising  above  those  surround- 
ing it.  To  the  north  of  Mount  Hood,  and  north  of  the 
Columbia,  is  seen  Mount  Saint  Helen.  We  halted  for 
the  night  at  Lee's  encampment.95 

94  On  the  crossing  of  Blue  Mountains  compare  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  328, 
note  206. —  ED. 

85  For  the  location  of  these  peaks  see  our  volume  vi,  pp.  246,  248,  notes  50 
and  54  respectively.  Lee's  encampment  was  the  place  upon  which  Henry  A.  G. 
Lee  had  waited  for  the  immigrants  of  1844.  Lee,  who  was  a  member  of  the 
train  of  1843,  was  commissioned  by  Dr.  Elijah  White  as  Indian  sub-agent 
to  encounter  the  party  of  1844  among  the  Cayuse  and  assist  in  the  trading 
between  Indians  and  immigrants,  and  thus  protect  both  parties.  The  policy 
did  not  prove  successful;  see  Lee's  own  letter  on  the  subject  in  Oregon  His- 
torical Quarterly,  v,  p.  300.  Lee  emigrated  from  the  southwestern  states,  and 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  journal  I  j  i 

September  16.  We  traveled  about  sixteen  miles  this 
day,  which  brought  us  to  Umatillo  river.  Here  is  an 
Indian  town,  the  residence  of  the  principal  chiefs  of  the 
Caaguas.98  At  this  time  they  were  mostly  in  the  moun- 
tains hunting.  The  road  has  been  good;  the  first 
twelve  miles  led  us  through  a  well  timbered  country, 
the  last  four  miles  over  prairie;  the  country  has  a  dry 
appearance;  the  banks  of  the  streams  are  lined  with 
cottonwood,  balm  of  gilead,  choke  cherries  and  every 
variety  of  bushes.  The  Indians  have  a  few  cultivated 
fields  along  this  stream;  they  raise  wheat,  corn,  potatoes, 
peas  and  a  variety  of  vegetables.  After  the  planting  of 
crops,  the  labour  of  tending  devolves  upon  the  squaws, 
or  is  done  by  slaves,  of  which  they  have  a  number, 
being  captives  taken  in  their  expeditions  against  other 
tribes.  They  brought  us  the  different  products  of 
their  farms  for  traffic.  As  they  expressed  great  eager- 
ness to  obtain  clothes,  and  we  had  a  like  desire  to  obtain 
vegetables,  a  brisk  traffic  was  continued  until  dark.  On 
yesterday  morning  when  about  ready  to  start,  we  dis- 
covered that  eight  or  ten  of  our  work  cattle  were  missing. 
Four  of  our  number,  myself  included,  remained  to  hunt 

immediately  became  a  leader  in  Oregon  politics.  He  was  elected  to  the  legisla- 
ture of  1845,  and  was  an  officer  in  the  Cayuse  War  of  1847-48,  during  which 
he  was  appointed  Indian  agent  to  succeed  General  Joel  Palmer.  The  follow- 
ing year  he  resigned  his  office,  and  soon  thereafter  left  for  the  California  gold 
mines.  He  returned  to  Oregon  to  enter  the  mercantile  business;  but  died 
on  a  voyage  to  New  York  in  1850. —  ED. 

88  For  the  Umatilla  River  see  our  volume  vi,  p.  338,  note  141. 

The  Indian  village  was  probably  that  of  Five  Crows,  who  in  1843  was 
elected  head-chief  of  the  Cayuse.  His  baptismal  name  was  Hezekiah,  and 
he  took  no  active  part  in  the  Whitman  massacre  (1847);  nevertheless  he  did 
nothing  to  prevent  its  occurrence  and  secured  the  person  of  some  of  the  prisoners> 
notably  a  Miss  Bewley,  whom  he  took  as  a  wife.  Five  Crows  afterwards  was 
active  in  the  Cayuse  War  (1878),  in  which  he  was  severely  wounded. —  ED. 

' 


1 1  2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

them  up.  In  our  search  we  rambled  over  the  mountains 
for  several  miles,  and  at  night  found  them  about  three 
miles  from  camp;  we  then  followed  the  road  and  arrived 
at  Lee's  encampment  just  after  dark.  This  morning 
an  ox,  a  mule  and  a  horse  were  missing.  Three  of  us 
remained  to  hunt  for  them.  We  searched  the  prairies 
and  [57]  thickets  for  miles  around,  but  were  unsuccess- 
ful. We  then  pursued  the  road  to  Umatillo,  which  we 
reached  at  night. 

September  17.  At  eight  o'clock  this  morning,  the 
men  who  had  left  us  at  Grand  Round  for  Dr.  Whitman's 
station,  rejoined  us,  accompanied  by  the  doctor  and  his 
lady.97  They  came  in  a  two  horse  wagon,  bringing 
with  them  a  plentiful  supply  of  flour,  meal  and  potatoes. 
After  our  party  had  taken  some  refreshment,  the  march 
was  resumed ;  our  visitors  accompanying  us  to  our  camp 
four  miles  down  the  river.  Our  present  location  affords 
but  little  grazing. 

The  doctor  and  lady  remained  with  us  during  the  day ; 
he  took  occasion  to  inform  us  of  the  many  incidents 
that  marked  his  ten  years'  sojourn  in  this  wilderness 
region,  of  a  highly  interesting  character.  Among  other 
things,  he  related  that  during  his  residence  in  this  country, 
he  had  been  reduced  to  such  necessity  for  want  of  food, 
as  to  be  compelled  to  slay  his  horse;  stating  that  within 
that  period,  no  less  than  thirty-two  horses  had  been 
served  up  at  his  table.  It  appears  that  the  soil  has 
never  been  cultivated  until  within  a  few  years  back; 
but  at  this  time,  so  much  attention  is  given  to  the  culture 
of  the  soil,  which  yields  abundantly,  that  the  privations 
of  famine,  or  even  scarcity,  will  probably  not  again 

97  For  Mrs.  Whitman  see  our  volume  xri,  p.  355,  note  128. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer 's  "Journal  113 

recur.  The  condition  of  the  savages  has  been  greatly 
ameliorated  and  their  improvement  is  chiefly  attribu- 
table to  the  missionary  residents.  They  have  a  good 
stock  of  cattle,  hogs,  sheep,  &c.,  and  raise  an  amount 
of  grain  not  only  sufficient  to  supply  their  own  wants, 
but  affords  a  surplus.  These  tribes  differ  in  their  appear- 
ance and  customs  from  any  we  have  met.  They  recognise 
the  change  which  has  taken  place,  and  are  not  ignorant 
that  it  has  been  effected  by  the  efforts  and  labor  of  the 
missionaries.  On  the  other  hand,  they  acknowledge  the 
benefits  derived  by  yielding  to  their  instructions.  They 
have  embraced  the  Christian  religion,  and  appear  devout 
in  their  espousal  of  Christian  doctrines.  The  entire 
time  of  the  missionaries  is  devoted  to  the  cause  for  which 
they  have  forsaken  their  friends  and  kindred;  they  have 
left  the  comforts  of  home,  and  those  places  which  have 
been  endeared  by  early  associations,  for  the  wild  wilder- 
ness and  the  habitation  of  the  savage,  prompted  by  those 
principles  of  charity  and  benevolence  which  the  Christian 
religion  always  inculcates.  Their  privations  and  trials 
have  been  great,  but  they  have  borne  them  with  humility 
and  meekness,  and  the  fruits  of  their  devotion  are  now 
manifest;  and  if  any  class  of  people  deserve  well  of  their 
country,  or  are  entitled  to  the  thanks  of  [58]  a  Christian 
community,  it  is  the  missionaries.  Having  no  family 
of  their  own,  they  generously  take  families  of  orphan 
children,  raise  and  educate  them  in  a  manner  that  is 
worthy  of  all  commendation.88 


98  Mary  Ann  Bridget  and  Helen  Mar  Meek,  half-breed  children  of  James 
Bridger  and  Joseph  Meek,  were  brought  to  the  Whitmans  before  1842;  also 
a  half-breed  Spanish  boy,  David  Malin.  The  migration  of  1843  left  with  Mrs. 
Whitman  two  motherless  English  girls,  Ann  and  Emma  Hobson;  while  in 


H4  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

September  18.  This  morning,  after  breakfast,  our 
worthy  guests  left  us  and  we  took  up  our  line  of  march, 
traveling  down  the  Umatillo  valley  for  some  twelve 
miles,  crossing  the  stream  twice.  The  road  then  takes 
up  the  bluff  to  the  right,  over  a  high  grassy  plain.  Our 
encampment  was  pitched  on  the  bluff  on  the  left  of  the 
road.  The  water  required  at  camp,  was  packed  about 
one  and  a  half  miles,  being  procured  at  the  base  of  the 
bluffs,  up  which  we  had  to  climb.  The  country  is  very 
rolling,  covered  with  dry  grass;  it  is  mostly  prairie. 
From  this  point  two  snowy  peaks  appear  in  view,  as 
also  the  great  valley  of  the  Columbia;  in  truth  it 
may  be  said  that  our  present  location  is  in  that  valley, 
although  it  is  generally  termed  the  middle  region. 

September  19.  This  day  we  traveled  about  ten  miles. 
Eight  miles  brought  us  to  the  river;  we  followed  the  banks 
of  the  river  for  two  miles,  and  encamped;  good  grazing 
is  found.  The  stream  as  usual  is  lined  with  timber,  but 
with  this  exception,  it  is  a  rolling  prairie  as  far  as  can 
be  seen,  extending  to  the  north  and  south,  and  bounded 
on  the  east  and  west  by  the  Blue  and  Cascade  moun- 
tains. Whilst  at  this  camp,  we  were  visited  by  the 
Wallawalla  Indians;  they  reside  along  the  lower  part  of 
the  Wallawalla,  the  low  bottoms  of  the  Umatillo  and  the 
Columbia,  from  the  mouth  of  Lewis  river  for  one  hun- 
dred miles  south.  They  furnished  us  with  potatoes 
and  venison.  In  their  personal  appearance  they  are 


1844  seven  children  of  the  Sager  family,  both  of  whose  parents  had  died  en 
route  across  the  plains,  were  adopted  by  the  Whitmans.  Of  these  children 
the  two  eldest  Sager  boys  were  killed  during  the  massacre;  the  half-breed 
girls  and  one  of  the  Sager  girls  died  a  few  days  later,  from  exposure  and 
fright. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmers  'Journal  115 

much  inferior  to  the  Caaguas,  and  want  the  cleanliness 
that  characterizes  that  tribe." 

September  20.  This  day  we  traveled  about  fifteen 
miles.  For  the  first  eight  miles  the  soil  was  remarkably 
rich  in  appearance,  an  admixture  of  sand  and  loam, 
and  covered  with  good  grass;  the  stream  is  lined  with 
timber,  in  common  with  many  of  those  that  we  have 
passed ;  the  last  seven  miles  was  sandy  and  heavy  travel- 
ing. The  Columbia  river  presents  itself  on  our  right, 
at  the  distance  of  four  miles.  The  river  is  in  view  for 
miles  along  this  road.  The  prickly  pear  is  found  in 
abundance.  It  was  our  intention  to  have  reached  the 
Columbia  before  encamping,  but  from  the  difficult  travel- 
ing, were  compelled  to  encamp  on  the  sandy  plain, 
deprived  of  water,  wood  and  grass. 

[59]  September  21.  This  morning  at  day-light  we 
started  for  the  Columbia,  distance  three  and  a  half  miles. 
The  river  at  this  place  is  from  a  half  to  three-fourths  of 
a  mile  in  width.  It  is  a  beautiful  stream;  its  waters 
are  clear  and  course  gently  over  a  pebbly  bottom.  Along 
the  Columbia,  is  a  strip  of  barren  country  of  twelve 
miles  in  width;  a  little  dry  grass  in  bunches,  prickly 
pear  and  grease  wood,  dot  its  surface.  With  this  excep- 
tion, its  appearance  was  wild  and  solitary  to  a  great 
degree;  but  sterile  as  it  is  hi  appearance,  the  view  is 
relieved  by  the  majesty  of  the  river  that  flows  by  it. 
Immediately  along  the  bank  of  the  Columbia  is  a  narrow 
bottom,  covered  with  green  grass,  cucklebur,  wild  sun- 
flower, pig  weed,  and  several  other  kinds  of  weeds,  all 
of  which  were  in  full  bloom.  There  was  something 
inspiriting  and  animating  in  beholding  this.  A  feeling 

"  For  the  Wallawalla  Indians  see  our  volume  vii,  p.  137,  note  37. —  ED. 


1 1 6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

of  pleasure  would  animate  our  breasts  akin  to  that  filling 
the  breast  of  the  mariner,  when  after  years  of  absence, 
the  shores  of  his  native  land  appear  to  view.  We  could 
scarce  persuade  ourselves  but  that  our  journey  had  arrived 
at  its  termination.  We  were  full  of  hope,  and  as  it  was 
understood  that  we  had  but  one  more  difficult  part  of 
the  road  to  surmount,  we  moved  forward  with  redoubled 
energy;  our  horses  and  cattle  were  much  jaded,  but  we 
believed  that  they  could  be  got  through,  or  at  least 
the  greater  part  of  them. 

The  Indians  were  constantly  paying  us  visits,  furnish- 
ing us  with  vegetables,  which,  by  the  by,  were  quite 
welcome;  but  they  would  in  return  demand  wearing 
apparel,  until  by  traffic,  we  were  left  with  but  one  suit. 
We  were  compelled  to  keep  a  sharp  look  out  over  our 
kitchen  furniture,  as  during  these  visits  it  was  liable  to 
diminish  in  quantity  by  forming  an  attachment  towards 
these  children  of  the  forest,  and  following  them  off. 
Many  of  these  savages  were  nearly  naked;  they  differ 
greatly  from  the  Caaguas,  being  much  inferior;  they 
are  a  greasy,  filthy,  dirty  set  of  miscreants  as  ever  might 
be  met. 

September  22.  This  day  we  remained  in  camp,  engaged 
in  traffic  with  the  Indians.  Some  of  our  party  were  in 
want  of  horses,  and  took  this  occasion  to  supply  them- 
selves. 

September  23.  This  day  we  traveled  about  twenty 
miles.  The  first  eight  miles  the  road  is  heavy  travel- 
ing; the  remaining  portion  however  is  much  better, 
with  the  exception  of  the  last  five  miles,  which  proved 
to  be  quite  rocky.  There  is  an  occasional  green  spot 
to  be  found,  but  the  whole  distance  we  have  traveled 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  'Journal  117 

since  we  first  struck  the  river  cannot  be  regarded  [60]  as 
more  than  a  barren  sandy  plain.  In  our  route  this  day 
we  passed  several  Indian  villages;  they  are  but  temporary 
establishments,  as  their  migratory  disposition  will  not 
justify  more  permanent  structures. 

September  24.  This  day  we  traveled  but  sixteen 
miles.  After  a  march  of  seven  miles,  we  arrived  at  a 
small  creek,  a  good  situation  for  encamping;  nine  miles 
more  brought  us  to  Dry  Branch,  from  whence  we  pro- 
ceeded down  the  bluff  to  the  river;  a  great  portion  of 
the  road  traveled  was  sandy  and  heavy.100 

September  25.  This  day  we  traveled  about  fourteen 
miles.  The  road  was  quite  hilly;  sometimes  it  followed 
the  bank  of  the  river,  at  others  pursued  its  course  along 
the  high  bluff.  The  river  is  confined  to  a  very  narrow 
channel;  country  very  barren,  and  the  bluffs  of  great 
height. 

September  26.  This  day  we  traveled  about  three 
miles.  The  road  ascends  the  bluff;  is  very  difficult  in 
ascent  from  its  steepness,  requiring  twice  the  force  to 
impel  the  wagons  usually  employed;  after  effecting 
the  ascent,  the  sinuosity  of  the  road  led  us  among  the 
rocks  to  the  bluff  on  John  Day's  river;  here  we  had 
another  obstacle  to  surmount,  that  of  going  down  a  hill 
very  precipitous  in  its  descent,  but  we  accomplished 
it  without  loss  or  injury  to  our  teams.  This  stream 
comes  tumbling  through  kanyons  and  rolling  over  rocks 
at  a  violent  rate.  It  is  very  difficult  to  cross,  on  account 

100  Probably  Willow  Creek,  which  drains  Morrow  County  and  affords 
water  for  stock-raising  and  sheep-pasturage.  Late  in  the  year,  when  Palmer 
passed,  the  stream  was  dry.  The  sandy  margin  along  the  Columbia  from  the 
mouth  of  Umatilla  River  to  the  Dalles,  has  always  been  an  annoyance  to  traffic. 
Sand  frequently  drifts  over  the  railway  track  in  this  region. —  ED. 


1 1 8  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

of  the  stone  forming  the  bed  of  the  creek;  its  width, 
however,  does  not  exceed  ten  yards.  The  grazing  is  in- 
different, the  grass  being  completely  dried.101 

September  27.  This  morning  we  discovered  that  several 
of  our  trail  ropes  had  been  stolen.  Our  horses  could  not 
be  found  until  very  late;  notwithstanding  the  delay  thus 
occasioned  we  traveled  some  twenty  miles.  The  road 
for  the  first  three  miles  is  up  hill;  it  then  pursues  its 
course  over  a  grassy,  rolling  plain  for  fifteen  or  sixteen 
miles,  when  it  again  descends  the  bluff  to  the  bank  of 
the  Columbia,  which  we  followed  down  for  one  mile  and 
there  encamped.  The  bluffs  are  very  high  and  rocky. 
We  suffered  great  inconvenience  from  the  want  of  fuel, 
as  there  is  none  to  be  found  along  the  Columbia;  we 
collected  a  few  dry  sticks  of  driftwood  and  weeds,  which 
enabled  us  to  partially  cook  our  food.  The  road  we 
traveled  this  day  was  very  good. 

September  28.  This  day  we  traveled  about  twelve 
miles.  Two  miles  brought  us  to  the  crossing  of  Deshutes 
or  Falls  [61]  river;  a  stream  having  its  source  in  a 
marshy  plain  bordering  on  the  Great  Basin,  and  receives 
numerous  tributaries  heading  in  the  Cascade  mountains, 
the  eastern  base  of  which  it  follows  and  pours  its  waters 
into  the  Columbia.  The  mouth  of  De  Shutes  river  is 
near  fifteen  miles  east  of  the  Dalles  or  eastern  base  of 
these  mountains;  the  river  is  about  one  hundred  yards 
wide,  and  the  current  very  rapid;  the  stream  is  enclosed 
by  lofty  cliffs  of  basaltic  rock.  Four  hundred  yards 
from  the  Columbia  is  a  rapid  or  cascade.  Within  the 
distance  of  thirty  yards  its  descent  is  from  fifteen  to 

101  For  a  brief  note  on  John  Day  River  see  our  volume  xri,  p.  357,  note 
129. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  yournal  119 

twenty  feet.102  The  current  of  this  stream  was  so  rapid 
and  violent,  and  withal  of  such  depth,  as  to  require  us  to 
ferry  it.  Some  of  the  companies  behind  us,  however, 
drove  over  at  its  mouth  by  crossing  on  a  bar.  Prepara- 
tory to  ferrying,  we  unloaded  our  wagons,  and  taking 
them  apart,  put  them  aboard  some  Indian  canoes,  which 
were  in  waiting,  and  crossed  in  safety;  after  putting  our 
wagons  in  order  of  travel,  and  preparing  to  start,  we 
discovered  ourselves  minus  a  quantity  of  powder  and 
shot,  two  shirts  and  two  pairs  of  pantaloons,  which  the 
Indians  had  appropriated  to  their  own  use,  doubtless 
to  pay  the  trouble  of  ferriage. 

In  the  morning  a  quarrel  ensued  among  the  Indians 
respecting  their  canoes,  closing  in  a  melee,  and  such  a 
fight  I  never  before  witnessed;  stones  and  missiles  of 
every  description  that  were  at  hand  were  used  with 
freedom.  We  did  not  interfere  with  them,  and  when 
they  were  tired  of  fighting  the  effects  of  the  battle  were 
visible  in  numerous  instances,  such  as  bloody  noses  and 
battered,  bleeding  heads. 

We  ascended  the  bluff  and  traveled  along  the  brink 
for  several  miles,  then  crossed  over  the  ridge  to  a  small 
creek;  after  crossing  it,  we  took  up  a  dry  run  for  one 
or  two  miles,  thence  over  a  ridge  to  a  running  branch, 
and  there  encamped.  The  country  through  which 
we  traveled  this  day  was  extremely  rough;  all  prairie, 
and  covered  with  grass,  but  very  dry. 

September  29.  This  day  we  traveled  about  five  miles, 
which  brought  us  to  the  Dalles,  or  Methodist  Missions.108 

102  For  this  river  see  our  volume  vii,  p.  133,  note  32;  also  our  volume  xxviii, 
p.  354,  note  222. —  ED. 

10S  For  the  Dalles  and  the  mission  there  located,  consult  our  volumes  xxi, 
p.  285,  note  77;  xxviii,  pp.  355,  357,  notes  223,  226. —  ED. 


1 20  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

Here  was  the  end  of  our  road,  as  no  wagons  had  ever 
gone  below  this  place.  We  found  some  sixty  families 
in  waiting  for  a  passage  down  the  river;  and  as  there 
were  but  two  small  boats  running  to  the  Cascade  falls, 
our  prospect  for  a  speedy  passage  was  not  overly  flat- 
tering. 

September  30.  This  day  we  intended  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  our  passage  down  the  river,  but  we  found  upon 
inquiry,  that  the  two  boats  spoken  of  were  engaged  for 
at  least  [62]  ten  days,  and  that  their  charges  were  exor- 
bitant, and  would  probably  absorb  what  little  we  had 
left  to  pay  our  way  to  Oregon  City.  We  then  determined 
to  make  a  trip  over  the  mountains,  and  made  inquiries 
respecting  its  practicability  of  some  Indians,  but  could 
learn  nothing  definite,  excepting  that  grass,  timber  and 
water  would  be  found  in  abundance;  we  finally  ascer- 
tained that  a  Mr.  Barlow  and  Mr.  Nighton  had,  with 
the  same  object,  penetrated  some  twenty  or  twenty-five 
miles  into  the  interior,  and  found  it  impracticable. 
Nighton  had  returned,  but  Barlow  was  yet  in  the  moun- 
tains, endeavoring  to  force  a  passage;  they  had  been 
absent  six  days,  with  seven  wagons  in  their  train,  in- 
tending to  go  as  far  as  they  could,  and  if  found  to  be 
impracticable,  to  return  and  go  down  the  river.104 

We  succeeded  in  persuading  fifteen  families  to  accom- 

104  Samuel  Kimborough  Barlow  was  of  Scotch  descent,  the  son  of  a  Ken- 
tucky pioneer.  Born  (1795)  in  Nicholas  County,  in  that  state,  he  removed 
to  Indiana  (1818),  where  he  married  Susanna  Lee  of  South  Carolina.  A 
further  move  to  Fulton  County,  Illinois,  paved  the  way  for  emigration  to  Oregon 
in  1845.  Arrived  in  Oregon  City,  Christmas  of  that  year,  Barlow  kept  a  hotel 
there  until  1848,  when  he  bought  land  in  Clackamas  County  of  Thomas 
McKay.  Later  (1852),  he  removed  to  Canemah,  just  above  Oregon  City,  where 
he  died  in  1867.  He  was  public-spirited  and  active  in  the  affairs  of  the  new 
commonwealth.  For  an  account  of  the  road  constructed  over  the  trail  made 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  121 

pany  us  in  our  trip  over  the  mountains,  and  immediately 
made  preparations  for  our  march.  On  the  afternoon  of 
the  first  of  October,  our  preparations  were  announced 
as  complete,  and  we  took  up  our  line  of  march;  others 
in  the  mean  time  had  joined  us,  and  should  we  fall  in 
with  Barlow,  our  train  would  consist  of  some  thirty 
wagons. 

But  before  proceeding  with  a  description  of  this  route, 
I  will  enter  into  a  detail  of  the  difficulties  undergone 
by  the  company  of  two  hundred  wagons,  which  had 
separated  from  us  at  Malheur  creek,  under  the  pilotage 
of  Mr.  Meek. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  S.  L.  Meek  had  induced 
about  two  hundred  families,  with  their  wagons  and 
stock,  to  turn  off  at  Malheur,  with  the  view  of  saving 
thereby  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  travel;  and 
they  had  started  about  the  last  of  August.  They  followed 
up  Malheur  creek,  keeping  up  the  southern  branch,  and 
pursuing  a  southern  course.  For  a  long  time  they  found 
a  very  good  road,  plenty  of  grass,  fuel  and  water;  they 
left  these  waters,  and  directed  their  course  over  a  rough 
mountainous  country,  almost  entirely  bereft  of  vegetation, 
were  for  many  days  destitute  of  water,  and  when  they 
were  so  fortunate  as  to  procure  this  indispensable  element, 
it  was  found  stagnant  in  pools,  unfit  even  for  the  use  of 
cattle;  but  necessity  compelled  them  to  the  use  of  it. 
The  result  was,  that  it  made  many  of  them  sick;  many 

in  1845,  see  Mary  S.  Barlow,  "History  of  the  Barlow  Road,"  in  Oregon  His- 
torical Quarterly,  Hi,  pp.  71-81. 

H.  M.  Knighton  was  second  marshal  of  Oregon  under  the  provisional 
government,  and  sergeant-at-arms  of  the  house  of  representatives  of  1846. 
He  lived  at  Oregon  City,  where  he  kept  an  inn.  In  1848  he  was  settled  at  St. 
Helens. —  ED. 


122  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

of  the  cattle  died,  and  the  majority  were  unfit  for  labor. 
A  disease  termed  camp-fever,  broke  out  among  the 
different  companies,  of  which  many  became  the  victims. 

[63]  They  at  length  arrived  at  a  marshy  lake,  which 
they  attempted  to  cross,  but  found  it  impracticable; 
and  as  the  marsh  appeared  to  bear  south,  and  many 
of  them  were  nearly  out  of  provisions,  they  came  to  a 
determination  to  pursue  a  northern  course,  and  strike 
the  Columbia.  Meek,  however,  wished  to  go  south  of 
the  lake,  but  they  would  not  follow  him.  They  turned 
north,  and  after  a  few  days'  travel  arrived  at  Deshutes 
or  Falls  river.  They  traveled  up  and  down  this  river, 
endeavoring  to  find  a  passage,  but  as  it  ran  through 
rocky  kanyons,  it  was  impossible  to  cross. 

Their  sufferings  were  daily  increasing,  their  stock 
of  provisions  was  rapidly  wasting  away,  their  cattle 
were  becoming  exhausted,  and  many  attached  to  the 
company  were  laboring  under  severe  attacks  of  sickness; 
—  at  length  Meek  informed  them  that  they  were  not  more 
than  two  days'  ride  from  the  Dalles.  Ten  men  started  on 
horseback  for  the  Methodist  stations,  with  the  view  of 
procuring  provisions;  they  took  with  them  a  scanty 
supply  of  provisions,  intended  for  the  two  days'  journey. 
After  riding  faithfully  for  ten  days,  they  at  last  arrived 
at  the  Dalles.  On  their  way  they  encountered  an 
Indian,  who  furnished  them  with  a  fish  and  a  rabbit; 
this  with  the  provision  they  had  started  with,  was  their 
only  food  for  the  ten  days'  travel.  Upon  their  arrival 
at  the  Dalles  they  were  so  exhausted  in  strength,  and 
the  rigidity  of  their  limbs,  from  riding,  was  so  great,  as 
to  render  them  unable  to  dismount  without  assistance. 
They  reached  the  Dalles  the  day  previous  to  our  arrival. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  123 

At  this  place  they  met  an  old  mountaineer,  usually 
called  Black  Harris,  who  volunteered  his  services  as  a 
pilot.105  He  in  company  with  several  others,  started 
in  search  of  the  lost  company,  whom  they  found  reduced 
to  great  extremities;  their  provisions  nearly  exhausted, 
and  the  company  weakened  by  exertion,  and  despairing 
of  ever  reaching  the  settlements.  They  succeeded  in 
finding  a  place  where  their  cattle  could  be  driven  down 
to  the  river,  and  made  to  swim  across;  after  crossing,  the 
bluff  had  to  be  ascended.  Great  difficulty  arose  in  the 
attempt  to  effect  a  passage  with  the  wagons.  The  means 
finally  resorted  to  for  the  transportation  of  the  families 
and  wagons  were  novel  in  the  extreme.  A  large  rope 
was  swung  across  the  stream  and  attached  to  the  rocks 
on  either  side;  a  light  wagon  bed  was  suspended  from 
this  rope  with  pulleys,  to  which  ropes  were  attached; 
this  bed  served  to  convey  the  families  and  loading  in 
safety  across;  the  wagons  [64]  were  then  drawn  over  the 
bed  of  the  river  by  ropes.  The  passage  of  this  river 
occupied  some  two  weeks.  The  distance  was  thirty- 
five  miles  to  the  Dalles,  at  which  place  they  arrived  about 
the  1 3th,  or  i4th  of  October.  Some  twenty  of  their 
number  had  perished  by  disease,  previous  to  their  arrival 
at  the  Dalles,  and  a  like  number  were  lost,  after  their 
arrival,  from  the  same  cause.  This  company  has  been 

10S  Moses  Harris,  usually  called  Black  Harris,  was  a  well-known  scout 
and  trapper  who  came  to  Oregon  with  the  emigrant  train  of  1844.  See  an 
amusing  story  concerning  Harris,  related  by  Peter  H.  Burnett  in  his  "  Recol- 
lections," in  Oregon  Historical  Quarterly,  iii,  p.  152.  While  in  Oregon  Harris 
joined  several  exploring  expeditions,  notably  that  of  Dr.  Elijah  White  (1845) 
and  that  of  Levi  Scott  (1846)  in  the  attempt  to  find  a  shorter  route  from  Lewis 
River  to  the  Willamette  valley.  In  1846  Harris  again  went  to  the  rescue  of 
the  emigrants  who  were  trying  a  new  route  into  Oregon;  the  following  year, 
however,  he  returned  to  the  states,  dying  at  Independence,  Missouri. —  ED. 


1 24  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

known  by  the  name  of  the  St.  Joseph  company;  but 
there  were  persons  from  every  state  of  the  Union 
within  its  ranks.  Illinois  and  Missouri,  however,  had 
the  largest  representation. 

The  statements  I  have  given  are  as  correct  as  I  could 
arrive  at,  from  consultation  with  many  of  the  members. 
This  expedition  was  unfortunate  in  the  extreme.  Al- 
though commenced  under  favorable  auspices,  its  termi- 
nation assumed  a  gloomy  character.10' 

It  has  been  stated  that  some  members  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  were  instrumental  in  this  expedition, 
but  such  is  not  the  fact.  Whilst  I  was  at  Fort  Hall,  I 
conversed  with  Captain  Grant  respecting  the  practica- 
bility of  this  same  route,  and  was  advised  of  the  fact, 
that  the  teams  would  be  unable  to  get  through.  The 
individual  in  charge  at  Fort  Bois  also  advised  me  to  the 
same  purport.  The  censure  rests,  in  the  origin  of  the 
expedition,  upon  Meek;  but  I  have  not  the  least  doubt 
but  he  supposed  they  could  get  through  in  safety.  I 
have  understood  that  a  few  of  the  members  controlled 
Meek,  and  caused  him  to  depart  from  his  original  plan. 
It  was  his  design  to  have  conducted  the  party  to  the 
Willamette  Valley,  instead  of  going  to  the  Dalles;  and 
the  direction  he  first  traveled  induced  this  belief.  Meek 
is  yet  of  the  opinion  that  had  he  gone  round  the  marshy 
lake  to  the  south,  he  would  have  struck  the  settlement 
on  the  Willamette,  within  the  time  required  to  travel  to 

109  For  other  brief  descriptions  of  the  experiences  of  Meek's  party,  see  H.  H. 
Bancroft,  History  oj  Oregon,  i,  pp.  512-516,  this  latter  being  founded  upon 
manuscript  accounts,  notably  that  of  Samuel  Hancock,  a  transcript  of  which 
is  in  the  possession  of  Professor  Joseph  Schafer  of  the  University  of  Oregon, 
who  has  kindly  loaned  it  to  the  present  Editor.  Consult  also  Oregon  Pioneer 
Association  Transactions,  1877,  pp.  50-53;  1895,  p.  101. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  125 

the  Dalles.  Had  he  discovered  this  route,  it  would 
have  proved  a  great  saving  in  the  distance.  I  do  not 
question  but  that  there  may  be  a  route  found  to  the 
south  of  this,  opening  into  the  valley  of  the  Willamette.107 
But  I  must  again  return  to  the  subject  of  my  travels. 

October  i.  At  four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  every  thing  was 
ready  for  our  departure,  and  we  pursued  our  way  over 
the  ridge,  in  a  southern  course.  The  country  was  very 
rolling,  and  principally  prairie.  We  found  excellent 
grazing.  Our  camp  was  pitched  on  a  small  spring 
branch. 

October  2.  This  day  we  made  about  ten  miles,  cross- 
ing several  ravines,  many  of  which  had  running  water 
in  them;  [65]  the  country,  like  that  of  yesterday's 
travel,  proved  to  be  very  rolling;  our  camp  was  situated 
on  a  small  spring  branch,  having  its  source  in  the  moun- 
tain. 

October  3.  This  morning  I  started  on  horseback  in 
advance  of  the  company,  accompanied  by  one  of  its 
members.  Our  course  led  us  south  over  a  rolling, 
grassy  plain;  portions  of  the  road  were  very  stony. 
After  a  travel  of  fourteen  miles,  we  arrived  at  a  long 
and  steep  declivity,  which  we  descended,  and  after 
crossing  the  creek  at  its  base,  ascended  a  bluff;  in  the 
bottom  are  seen  several  small  enclosures,  where  the 


107  There  had  been  an  Indian  trail  through  the  Cascades  up  the  fork  of  the 
Santiam  River,  and  over  what  is  now  known  as  the  Minto  Pass.  Stephen 
Meek,  who  had  trapped  on  the  headwaters  of  John  Day  River,  and  there  met 
Indians  from  the  Willamette,  thought  that  he  could  find  this  trail;  but  as  a 
matter  of  fact  it  was  not  discovered  by  whites  until  1873.  Dr.  White  (1845) 
and  Cornelius  Gilliam  (1846)  made  essays  to  open  a  road  through  the  eastern 
barrier  of  the  valley.  See  John  Minto,  "History  of  the  Minto  Pass,"  in  Oregon 
Historical  Quarterly,  iv,  pp.  241-250. —  ED. 


126  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

Indians  have  cultivated  the  soil;  a  few  Indian  huts 
may  be  seen  along  this  stream. 

Meek's  company  crossed  Deshute's  river  near  the 
mouth  of  this  stream,  which  is  five  miles  distant.108 
After  ascending,  we  turned  to  the  right,  directing  our 
course  over  a  level  grassy  plain  for  some  five  miles  or 
more,  when  we  crossed  a  running  branch;  five  miles 
brought  us  to  Stony  Branch,  and  to  scattering  yellow 
pine  timber.  Here  we  found  Barlow's  company  of 
seven  wagons.  Barlow  was  absent  at  the  time,  having 
with  three  others  started  into  the  mountain  two  days 
before.  We  remained  with  them  all  night. 

October  4.  This  morning  myself  and  companion,  with 
a  scanty  supply  of  provisions  for  a  two  days'  journey, 
started  on  a  westerly  course  into  the  mountains.  From 
the  open  ground  we  could  see  Mount  Hood.  Our  object 
was  to  go  south  and  near  to  this  peak.  For  five  miles 
the  country  was  alternately  prairie  and  yellow  pine;  we 
then  ascended  a  ridge,  which  ascended  gradually  to  the 
west.  This  we  followed  for  ten  miles.  After  the  cross- 
ing of  a  little  brushy  bottom,  we  took  over  another  ridge 
for  four  or  five  miles,  very  heavily  timbered  and  densely 
covered  with  undergrowth.  We  descended  the  ridge 
for  a  short  distance,  and  traveled  a  level  bench  for  four 
miles;  this  is  covered  with  very  large  and  tall  fir  timber; 
we  then  descended  the  mountain,  traveling  westward 
for  one  and  a  half  miles;  we  then  came  to  a  small  branch, 
which  we  named  Rock  creek.109  After  crossing  the 


108  This  was  Tygh  Creek,  a  western  affluent  of  Deschutes  River,  about 
thirty-five  miles  above  its  mouth. —  ED. 

108  Marked  on  the  United  States  land  commissioner's  map  of  Oregon  (1897) 
as  an  affluent  of  White  River,  a  branch  of  the  Tygh. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  ^Journal  127 

creek,  we  ascended  a  hill  for  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  then 
bore  to  the  left  around  the  hill,  through  a  dense  forest 
of  spruce  pine.  After  five  miles  travel  from  Rock  creek 
we  came  to  a  marshy  cedar  swamp;  we  turned  to  the 
left,  and  there  found  a  suitable  place  for  crossing.  Here 
is  a  stream  of  from  five  to  six  yards  in  width,  when  con- 
fined to  one  channel;  but  in  many  places  it  runs  over  a 
bottom  of  two  rods  in  width,  strewed  with  old  moss  [66] 
covered  logs  and  roots.  The  water  was  extremely  clear 
and  cold.  Four  miles  brought  us  to  the  top  of  the  bluff 
of  a  deep  gulf;  we  turned  our  course  northward  for  two 
miles,  when  darkness  overtook  us,  forcing  us  to  encamp. 
A  little  grass  was  discernible  on  the  mountain  sides, 
which  afforded  our  jaded  horses  a  scanty  supply. 

October  5.  At  an  early  hour  this  morning,  I  proceeded 
down  the  mountain  to  the  stream  at  its  base.  I  found 
the  descent  very  abrupt  and  difficult;  the  distance  was 
one  half  mile.  The  water  was  running  very  rapid;  it 
had  the  same  appearance  as  the  water  of  the  Missouri, 
being  filled  with  white  sand.  I  followed  this  stream  up 
for  some  distance,  and  ascertained  that  its  source  was 
in  Mount  Hood;  and  from  the  appearance  of  the  banks,  it 
seems  that  its  waters  swell  during  the  night,  overflowing 
its  banks,  and  subside  again  by  day;  it  empties  into 
Deshute's  river,  having  a  sandy  bottom  of  from  two 
rods  to  half  a  mile  wide,  covered  with  scrubby  pines, 
and  sometimes  a  slough  of  alder  bushes,  with  a  little 
grass  and  rushes.  We  then  ascended  the  mountain, 
and  as  our  stock  of  provisions  was  barely  sufficient  to 
last  us  through  the  day,  it  was  found  necessary  to  return 
to  camp.  We  retraced  our  steps  to  where  we  had  struck 
the  bluff,  and  followed  down  a  short  distance  where  we 


128  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

found  the  mountain  of  sufficiently  gradual  descent  to 
admit  of  the  passage  of  teams;  we  could  then  follow  up 
the  bottom  towards  Mount  Hood,  and  as  we  supposed 
that  this  peak  was  the  dividing  ridge,  we  had  reasonable 
grounds  to  hope  that  we  could  get  through.  We  then 
took  our  trail  in  the  direction  of  the  camp;  and  late  in 
the  evening,  tired  and  hungry,  we  arrived  at  Rock  creek, 
where  we  found  our  company  encamped.  Barlow  had 
not  yet  returned,  but  we  resolved  to  push  forward. 

October  6.  We  remained  in  camp.  As  the  grazing 
was  poor  in  the  timber,  and  our  loose  cattle  much  trouble 
to  us,  we  determined  to  send  a  party  with  them  to  the 
settlement.  The  Indians  had  informed  us  that  there  was 
a  trail  to  the  north,  which  ran  over  Mount  Hood,  and 
thence  to  Oregon  city.  This  party  was  to  proceed  up 
one  of  the  ridges  until  they  struck  this  trail,  and  then 
follow  it  to  the  settlement.  Two  families  decided  upon 
going  with  this  party,  and  as  I  expected  to  have  no 
further  use  for  my  horse,  I  sent  him  with  them.  They 
were  to  procure  provisions  and  assistance,  and  meet  us 
on  the  way.  We  had  forwarded,  by  a  company  of  cattle- 
drivers  from  the  Dalles,  which  started  for  the  settlement 
on  the  first  of  the  [67]  month,  a  request  that  they  would 
send  us  provisions  and  assistance;  but  as  we  knew 
nothing  of  their  whereabouts,  we  had  little  hope  of  being 
benefited  by  them."0  The  day  was  spent  in  making 
the  necessary  arrangements  for  the  cattle-drivers,  and 
for  working  the  road.  In  the  afternoon,  Barlow  and  his 


110  See  an  account  of  this  party  of  cattle  drivers  and  their  adventures  in 
"Occasional  Address,"  by  Hon.  Stephen  Staats,  in  Oregon  Pioneer  Association 
Transactions,  1877,  pp.  51,  52.  Staats  was  one  of  the  party  who  reached 
Oregon  City  in  thirteen  days  from  the  Dalles. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  journal  129 

party  returned.  They  had  taken  nearly  the  same  route 
that  we  had ;  they  had  followed  up  the  bluff  of  this  branch 
of  the  De  Shutes,  to  within  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  of 
Mount  Hood,  where  they  supposed  they  had  seen  Wil- 
lamette valley.  They  had  then  taken  the  Indian  trail 
spoken  of,  and  followed  it  to  one  of  the  ridges  leading 
down  to  the  river  De  Shutes;  this  they  followed,  and 
came  out  near  our  camp.  We  now  jointly  adopted 
measures  for  the  prosecution  of  the  work  before  us. 

October  7.  Early  in  the  morning,  the  party  designated 
to  drive  our  loose  cattle  made  their  arrangements,  and 
left  us.  And  as  we  supposed  our  stock  of  provisions  was 
insufficient  to  supply  us  until  these  men  returned,  we 
dispatched  a  few  men  to  the  Dalles  for  a  beef  and  some 
wheat;  after  which,  we  divided  our  company  so  as  that 
a  portion  were  to  remain  and  take  charge  of  the  camp. 
A  sufficient  number  were  to  pack  provisions,  and  the 
remainder  were  to  be  engagecj  in  opening  the  road.  All 
being  ready,  each  one  entered  upon  the  duty  assigned 
him  with  an  alacrity  and  willingness  that  showed  a  full 
determination  to  prosecute  it  to  completion,  if  possible. 
On  the  evening  of  the  loth,  we  had  opened  a  road  to 
the  top  of  the  mountain,  which  we  were  to  descend 
to  the  branch  of  the  De  Shutes.111  The  side  of  the 
mountain  was  covered  with  a  species  of  laurel  bush,  and 
so  thick,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  pass  through 
it,  and  as  it  was  very  dry  we  set  it  on  fire.  We  passed 
down  and  encamped  on  the  creek,  and  during  the  night 

111  The  Little  Deschutes,  rising  on  the  slopes  of  Mount  Hood.  See  reminis- 
cences of  William  Barlow,  son  of  the  leader  of  this  party,  in  Oregon  Historical 
Quarterly,  iii,  pp.  71-81.  He  speaks  of  the  lack  of  good  tools  for  opening  the 
road,  rusty  saws  and  axes  being  the  only  implements  available  to  the  builders. 
They  frequently  reverted  to  firing  the  underbrush  ahead  of  them. —  ED. 


130  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

the  fire  had  nearly  cleared  the  road  on  the  side  of  the 
mountain. 

On  the  morning  of  October  nth,  a  consultation  was 
had,  when  it  was  determined  that  Mr.  Barlow,  Mr. 
Lock,  and  myself,  should  go  in  advance,  and  ascertain 
whether  we  could  find  a  passage  over  the  main  dividing 
ridge.  In  the  mean  time,  the  remainder  of  the  party 
were  to  open  the  road  up  the  creek  bottom  as  far  as  they 
could,  or  until  our  return.  We  took  some  provision  in 
our  pockets,  an  axe,  and  one  rifle,  and  started.  We 
followed  up  this  branch  about  fifteen  miles,  when  we 
reached  a  creek,  coming  in  from  the  left.  We  followed 
up  this  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  struck  across  to 
[68]  the  main  fork;  and  in  doing  so,  we  came  into  a 
cedar  swamp,  so  covered  with  heavy  timber  and  brush 
that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  get  through  it.  We  were 
at  least  one  hour  in  traveling  half  a  mile.  We  struck 
the  opening  along  the  other  fork,  traveled  up  this  about 
eight  miles,  and  struck  the  Indian  trail  spoken  of  before, 
near  where  it  comes  down  the  mountain.  The  last 
eight  miles  of  our  course  had  been  nearly  north  —  a 
high  mountain  putting  down  between  the  branch  and 
main  fork.  Where  we  struck  the  trail,  it  turned  west 
into  a  wide,  sandy  and  stony  plain,  of  several  miles  in 
width,  extending  up  to  Mount  Hood,  about  seven  or  eight 
miles  distant,  and  in  plain  view. 

I  had  never  before  looked  upon  a  sight  so  nobly  grand. 
We  had  previously  seen  only  the  top  of  it,  but  now  we 
had  a  view  of  the  whole  mountain.  No  pen  can  give 
an  adequate  description  of  this  scene.  The  bottom  which 
we  were  ascending,  had  a  rise  of  about  three  feet  to  the 
rod.  A  perfect  mass  of  rock  and  gravel  had  been  washed 
down  from  the  mountain.  In  one  part  of  the  bottom 


1845-!  846]  Palmer's  Journal  131 

was  standing  a  grove  of  dead  trees,  the  top  of  which  could 
be  seen;  from  appearance,  the  surface  had  been  filled  up 
seventy-five  or  eighty  feet  about  them.  The  water  came 
tumbling  down,  through  a  little  channel,  in  torrents. 
Near  the  upper  end  of  the  bottom,  the  mountains  upon 
either  side  narrowed  in  until  they  left  a  deep  chasm  or 
gulf,  where  it  emerged  from  the  rocky  cliffs  above. 

Stretching  away  to  the  south,  was  a  range  of  moun- 
tain, which  from  the  bottom  appeared  to  be  connected 
with  the  mountain  on  our  left.  It  appeared  to  be  covered 
with  timber  far  up;  then  a  space  of  over  two  miles  covered 
with  grass;  then  a  space  of  more  than  a  mile  destitute  of 
vegetation;  then  commenced  the  snow,  and  continued 
rising  until  the  eye  was  pained  in  looking  to  the  top.  To 
our  right  was  a  high  range,  which  connected  with  Mount 
Hood,  covered  with  timber.  The  timber  near  the  snow 
was  dead. 

We  followed  this  trail  for  five  or  six  miles,  when  it 
wound  up  a  grassy  ridge  to  the  left  —  followed  it  up  to 
where  it  connected  with  the  main  ridge ;  this  we  followed 
up  for  a  mile,  when  the  grass  disappeared,  and  we  came 
to  a  ridge  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation.  It  appeared 
to  be  sand  and  gravel,  or  rather,  decomposed  material 
from  sandstone  crumbled  to  pieces.  Before  reaching 
this  barren  ridge,  we  met  a  party  of  those  who  had  started 
with  the  loose  cattle,  hunting  for  some  which  had  strayed 
off.  They  informed  us  that  they  had  lost  about  [69] 
one-third  of  their  cattle,  and  were  then  encamped  on  the 
west  side  of  Mount  Hood.  We  determined  to  lodge 
with  them,  and  took  the  trail  over  the  mountain.  In  the 
mean  time,  the  cattle-drovers  had  found  a  few  head,  and 
traveled  with  us  to  their  camp. 

Soon  after  ascending  and  winding  round  this  barren 


132  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

ridge,  we  crossed  a  ravine,  one  or  two  rods  in  width,  upon 
the  snow,  which  terminated  a  short  distance  below  the 
trail,  and  extended  up  to  the  top  of  Mount  Hood.  We 
then  went  around  the  mountain  for  about  two  miles, 
crossing  several  strips  of  snow,  until  we  came  to  a  deep 
kanyon  or  gulf,  cut  out  by  the  wash  from  the  mountain 
above  us.  A  precipitate  cliff  of  rocks,  at  the  head, 
prevented  a  passage  around  it.  The  hills  were  of  the 
same  material  as  that  we  had  been  traveling  over,  and 
were  very  steep. 

I  judged  the  ravine  to  be  three  thousand  feet  deep. 
The  manner  of  descending  is  to  turn  directly  to  the  right, 
go  zigzag  for  about  one  hundred  yards,  then  turn  short 
round,  and  go  zigzag  until  you  come  under  the  place 
where  you  started  from;  then  to  the  right,  and  so  on, 
until  you  reach  the  base.  In  the  bottom  is  a  rapid  stream, 
filled  with  sand.  After  crossing,  we  ascended  in  the 
same  manner,  went  round  the  point  of  a  ridge,  where 
we  struck  another  ravine;  the  sides  of  this  were  covered 
with  grass  and  whortleberry  bushes.  In  this  ravine  we 
found  the  camp  of  our  friends.  We  reached  them 
about  dark;  the  wind  blew  a  gale,  and  it  was  quite  cold. 

October  12.  After  taking  some  refreshment,  we 
ascended  the  mountain,  intending  to  head  the  deep 
ravine,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether  there  was  any  gap 
in  the  mountain  south  of  us,  which  would  admit  of  a 
pass.  From  this  peak,  we  overlooked  the  whole  of  the 
mountains.  We  followed  up  the  grassy  ridge  for  one 
mile  and  a  half,  when  it  became  barren.  My  two  friends 
began  to  lag  behind,  and  show  signs  of  fatigue;  they 
finally  stopped,  and  contended  that  we  could  not  get 
round  the  head  of  the  ravine,  and  that  it  was  useless 


1845-1846]  Palmer* s  Journal  133 

to  attempt  an  ascent.  But  I  was  of  a  different  opinion, 
and  wished  to  go  on.  They  consented,  and  followed 
for  half  a  mile,  when  they  sat  down,  and  requested  me 
to  go  up  to  the  ledge,  and,  if  we  could  effect  a  passage 
up  and  get  round  it,  to  give  them  a  signal.  I  did  so, 
and  found  that  by  climbing  up  a  cliff  of  snow  and  ice, 
for  about  forty  feet,  but  not  so  steep  but  that  by  getting 
upon  one  cliff,  and  cutting  holes  to  stand  in  and  hold  on 
by,  it  could  be  ascended.  I  gave  the  signal,  and  they 
came  up.  In  the  [70]  mean  time,  I  had  cut  and  carved 
my  way  up  the  cliff,  and  when  up  to  the  top  was  forced 
to  admit  that  it  was  something  of  an  undertaking;  but 
as  I  had  arrived  safely  at  the  top  of  the  cliff,  I  doubted 
not  but  they  could  accomplish  the  same  task,  and  as  my 
moccasins  were  worn  out,  and  the  soles  of  my  feet  exposed 
to  the  snow,  I  was  disposed  to  be  traveling,  and  so  left 
them  to  get  up  the  best  way  they  could.  After  proceed- 
ing about  one  mile  upon  the  snow,  continually  winding 
up,  I  began  to  despair  of  seeing  my  companions.  I  came 
to  where  a  few  detached  pieces  of  rock  had  fallen  from 
the  ledge  above  and  rolled  down  upon  the  ice  and  snow, 
(for  the  whole  mass  is  more  like  ice  than  snow;)  I  clam- 
bered upon  one  of  these,  and  waited  half  an  hour.  I  then 
rolled  stones  down  the  mountain  for  half  an  hour;  but 
as  I  could  see  nothing  of  my  two  friends,  I  began  to 
suspect  that  they  had  gone  back,  and  crossed  in  the 
trail.  I  then  went  round  to  the  south-east  side,  con- 
tinually ascending,  and  taking  an  observation  of  the 
country  south,  and  was  fully  of  the  opinion  that  we  could 
find  a  passage  through."2 

112  The  opinion  heretofore  entertained,  that  this  peak  could  not  be  ascended 
to  its  summit,  I  found  to  be  erroneous.     I,  however,  did  not  arrive  at  the  highest 


I  34  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

The  waters  of  this  deep  ravine,  and  of  numerous 
ravines  to  the  north-west,  as  well  as  the  south-west, 
form  the  heads  of  Big  Sandy  and  Quicksand  rivers, 
which  empty  into  the  Columbia,  about  twenty-five  or 
thirty  miles  below  the  Cascade  Falls.11*  I  could  see  down 
this  stream  some  twelve  or  fifteen  miles,  where  the  view 
was  obstructed  by  a  high  range  coming  round  from  the 
north-west  side,  connecting  by  a  low  gap  with  some  of 
the  spurs  from  this  peak.  All  these  streams  were  run- 
ning through  such  deep  chasms,  that  it  was  impossible 
to  pass  them  with  teams.  To  the  south,  were  two  ranges 
of  mountains,  connecting  by  a  low  gap  with  this  peak, 
and  winding  round  until  they  terminated  near  Big  Sandy. 
I  observed  that  a  stream,  heading  near  the  base  of  this 
peak  and  running  south-east  [71]  for  several  miles, 
there  appeared  to  turn  to  the  west.  This  I  judged  to 
be  the  head  waters  of  Clackamis,  which  empties  into  the 
Willamette,  near  Oregon  city;  but  the  view  was  hid 
by  a  high  range  of  mountains  putting  down  in  that  direc- 
tion.114 A  low  gap  seemed  to  connect  this  stream,  or 


peak,  but  went  sufficiently  near  to  prove  its  practicability.  I  judge  the  diameter 
of  this  peak,  at  the  point  where  the  snow  remains  the  year  round,  to  be  about 
three  miles.  At  the  head  of  many  of  the  ravines,  are  perpendicular  cliffs  of 
rocks,  apparently  several  thousand  feet  high;  and  in  some  places  those  cliffs 
rise  so  precipitately  to  the  summit,  that  a  passage  around  is  impracticable.  I 
think  the  southern  side  affords  the  easiest  ascent.  The  dark  strips  observable 
from  a  distance,  are  occasioned  by  blackish  rock,  so  precipitous  as  not  to  admit 
of  the  snow  lying  upon  it.  The  upper  strata  are  of  gray  sandstone,  and  seem 
to  be  of  original  formation.  There  is  no  doubt,  but  any  of  the  snow  peaks  upon 
this  range  can  be  ascended  to  the  summit. —  PALMER. 

118  This  should  read  Big  Sandy  or  Quicksand  River.  Lewis  and  Clark  gave 
it  the  latter  name.  It  is  usually  known  as  the  Sandy,  and  in  many  branches 
drains  the  western  slope  of  Mount  Hood,  flowing  northwest  into  the  Columbia, 
in  Multnomah  County. —  ED. 

114  For  Clackamas  River  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  320,  note  105. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  135 

some  other,  heading  in  this  high  range,  with  the  low 
bottoms  immediately  under  the  base  of  this  peak.  I 
was  of  the  opinion  that  a  pass  might  be  found  between 
this  peak  and  the  first  range  of  mountains,  by  digging 
down  some  of  the  gravel  hills;  and  if  not,  there  would 
be  a  chance  of  passing  between  the  first  and  second 
ranges,  through  this  gap  to  the  branch  of  Clackamis; 
or,  by  taking  some  of  the  ranges  of  mountains  and  follow- 
ing them  down,  could  reach  the  open  ground  near  the 
Willamette,  as  there  appeared  to  be  spurs  extending  in 
that  direction.  I  could  also  see  a  low  gap  in  the  direction 
from  where  we  crossed  the  small  branch,  coming  up  the 
creek  on  the  nth,  towards  several  small  prairies  south 
of  us.  It  appeared,  that  if  we  could  get  a  road  opened 
to  that  place,  our  cattle  could  range  about  these  prairies 
until  we  could  find  a  passage  for  the  remainder  of  the 
way. 

The  day  was  getting  far  advanced,  and  we  had  no 
provisions,  save  each  of  us  a  small  biscuit;  and  knowing 
that  we  had  at  least  twenty-five  miles  to  travel,  before 
reaching  those  working  on  the  road,  I  hastened  down 
the  mountain.  I  had  no  difficulty  in  finding  a  passage 
down;  but  I  saw  some  deep  ravines  and  crevices  in  the 
ice  which  alarmed  me,  as  I  was  compelled  to  travel 
over  them.  The  snow  and  ice  had  melted  underneath, 
and  in  many  places  had  left  but  a  thin  shell  upon  the 
surface;  some  of  them  had  fallen  in  and  presented 
hideous  looking  caverns.  I  was  soon  out  of  danger, 
and  upon  the  east  side  of  the  deep  ravine  I  saw  my  two 
friends  slowly  winding  their  way  up  the  mountain.  They 
had  gone  to  the  foot  of  the  ledge,  and  as  they  wore  boots, 
and  were  much  fatigued,  they  abandoned  the  trip,  and 


136  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

returned  down  the  mountain  to  the  trail,  where  I  joined 
them.  We  there  rested  awhile,  and  struck  our  course  for 
one  of  the  prairies  which  we  had  seen  from  the  mountain. 
On  our  way  we  came  to  a  beautiful  spring  of  water, 
surrounded  with  fine  timber;  the  ground  was  covered 
with  whortle  berry  bushes,  and  many  of  them  hanging 
full  of  fruit,  we  halted,  ate  our  biscuit,  gathered  berries, 
and  then  proceeded  down  the  mountain. 

After  traveling  about  ten  miles,  we  reached  the  prairie. 
It  was  covered  with  grass,  and  was  very  wet.  A  red 
sediment  [72]  of  about  two  inches  in  depth  covered 
the  surface  of  the  ground  in  the  grass,  such  as  is  found 
around  mineral  springs.  A  beautiful  clear  stream  of 
water  was  running  through  the  prairie,  in  a  south-east 
direction.  We  had  seen  a  prairie  about  two  miles 
further  south,  much  larger  than  this,  which  we  supposed 
to  be  dry.  We  now  took  our  course  for  camp,  intend- 
ing to  strike  through  the  gap  to  the  mouth  of  the  small 
branch;  but  we  failed  in  finding  the  right  shute,  and 
came  out  into  the  bottom,  three  miles  .above  where  we 
had  first  struck  the  cattle  or  Indian  trail.  We  then  took 
down  the  bottom,  and  arrived  in  camp  about  eleven 
o'clock  at  night;  and  although  not  often  tired,  I  was 
willing  to  acknowledge  that  I  was  near  being  so.  I 
certainly  was  hungry,  but  my  condition  was  so  much 
better  than  that  of  my  two  friends,  that  I  could  not 
murmur.  Our  party  had  worked  the  road  up  to  the 
small  branch,  where  they  were  encamped. 

On  the  morning  of  the  i3th  of  October  we  held  a  con- 
sultation, and  determined  upon  the  future  movements  of 
the  company.  The  party  designated  to  bring  us  provis- 
ions had  performed  that  service;  but  the  amount  of  our 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  137 

provisions  was  nearly  exhausted,  and  many  of  the  party 
had  no  means  of  procuring  more.  Some  of  them  began 
to  despair  of  getting  through  this  season.  Those  left 
with  the  camp  were  unable  to  keep  the  cattle  together, 
and  a  number  of  them  had  been  lost.  The  Indians  had 
stolen  several  horses,  and  a  variety  of  mishaps  occurred, 
such  as  would  necessarily  follow  from  a  company  so  long 
remaining  in  one  position.  They  were  now  on  a  small 
creek,  five  miles  from  Stony  hill,  which  we  called  Camp 
creek,  and  near  the  timber.  It  was  impossible  to  keep 
more  than  one  third  of  the  men  working  at  the  road ;  the 
remainder  were  needed  to  attend  the  camp  and  pack 
provisions.  It  was  determined  to  send  a  party  and  view 
out  the  road,  through  to  the  open  country,  near  the  mouth 
of  Clackamis,  whilst  the  others  were  to  open  the  road 
as  far  as  the  big  prairie;  a  number  sufficient  to  bring  up 
the  teams  and  loose  cattle,  (for  a  number  of  families  with 
their  cattle  had  joined  since  ours  left,  and  portions  of  our 
company  did  not  send  their  loose  cattle,)  to  a  grassy 
prairie  in  this  bottom,  and  near  the  mouth  of  this  creek, 
as  the  time  required  to  pack  provisions  to  those  working 
on  the  road  would  be  saved.  All  being  arranged,  the 
next  thing  was  to  designate  the  persons  to  go  ahead  of 
the  party,  and  if  found  practicable  to  return  with  pro- 
visions and  help;  or  at  all  events  to  ascertain  whether 
the  route  were  practicable. 

[73]  It  was  determined  that  I  should  undertake  this 
trip.  I  asked  only  one  man  to  accompany  me.  We  took 
our  blankets,  a  limited  supply  of  provisions,  and  one 
light  axe,  and  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  set  out. 
I  was  satisfied  that  the  creek  which  we  were  then  on, 
headed  in  the  low  gap,  seen  from  Mount  Hood;  and  the 


138  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

party  were  to  open  the  road  up  this  branch.  But  as  I 
was  to  precede  them,  I  passed  up  this  creek  for  about 
eight  or  ten  miles,  when  I  discovered  the  low  gap,  went 
through  it,  and  at  noon  arrived  at  the  wet  prairie,  which 
we  had  visited  the  day  before.  The  route  was  prac- 
ticable, but  would  require  great  labor  to  remove  the 
timber,  and  cut  out  the  underbrush. 

We  halted  at  the  creek  and  took  some  refreshment; 
we  then  struck  for  the  low  gap  between  the  first  range 
of  mountains  running  west,  and  the  base  of  Mount 
Hood,  and  traveled  through  swamps,  small  prairies, 
brush,  and  heavy  timber  for  about  twelve  miles,  when 
we  found  the  labor  necessary  to  open  a  wagon  road  in 
this  direction,  to  be  greater  than  we  could  possibly 
bestow  upon  it  before  the  rainy  season.  We  determined 
to  try  some  other  route,  retraced  our  steps  six  or  seven 
miles,  and  then  bore  to  the  right,  around  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  when  we  struck  into  an  old  Indian  trail. 
This  we  followed  for  seven  or  eight  miles,  through  the 
gap  I  had  seen  from  Mount  Hood.  It  is  a  rolling  bottom 
of  about  four  or  five  miles  in  width,  and  extending  from 
the  base  of  Mount  Hood  south  for  ten  or  twelve  miles. 
The  trail  wound  around  the  mountain,  but  as  its  course 
was  about  that  we  wished  to  travel,  we  followed  it  until 
it  ran  out  at  the  top  of  the  mountain.  We  then  took 
the  ridge  west,  and  traveled  until  dark;  but  as  the  moon 
shone  bright,  and  the  timber  was  not  very  thick,  we 
turned  an  angle  down  the  mountain  to  the  left,  to  procure 
water.  We  traveled  about  three  miles,  and  struck  upon 
a  small  running  branch;  this  we  followed,  until  owing  to 
the  darkness,  we  were  compelled  to  encamp,  much 
fatigued,  and  somewhat  disheartened. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  1 39 

October  14.  At  daylight  we  were  on  the  way.  My 
moccasins,  which  the  night  before  had  received  a  pair 
of  soles,  in  yesterday's  tramp  had  given  way,  and  in 
traveling  after  night  my  feet  had  been  badly  snagged, 
so  that  I  was  in  poor  plight  for  walking;  but  as  there 
was  no  alternative,  we  started  down  the  mountain,  and 
after  traveling  a  few  miles  I  felt  quite  well  and  was  able 
to  take  the  lead.  We  traveled  about  three  miles,  when 
we  struck  a  large  creek  which  had  a  very  rapid  current, 
over  a  stony  bottom.  I  had  hoped  to  find  a  bottom  of 
sufficient  [74]  width  to  admit  of  a  wagon  road,  but 
after  following  down  this  stream  six  miles,  I  was  satis- 
fied that  it  would  not  do  to  attempt  it  this  season. 

The  weather,  which  had  been  entirely  clear  for  months, 
had  through  the  night  began  to  cloud  up;  and  in  the 
morning  the  birds,  squirrels,  and  every  thing  around, 
seemed  to  indicate  the  approach  of  a  storm.  I  began 
for  the  first  time  to  falter,  and  was  at  a  stand  to  know 
what  course  to  pursue.  I  had  understood  that  the  rainy 
season  commenced  in  October,  and  that  the  streams 
rose  to  an  alarming  height,  and  I  was  sensible  that  if  we 
crossed  the  branch  of  the  Deshutes,  which  headed  in 
Mount  Hood,  and  the  rainy  season  set  in,  we  could  not 
get  back,  and  to  get  forward  would  be  equally  impossible ; 
so  that  in  either  event  starvation  would  be  the  result. 
And  as  I  had  been  very  active  in  inducing  others  to  em- 
bark in  the  enterprise,  my  conscience  would  not  allow 
me  to  go  on  and  thus  endanger  so  many  families. 
But  to  go  back,  and  state  to  them  the  difficulties  to  be 
encountered,  and  the  necessity  of  taking  some  other 
course,  seemed  to  be  my  duty.  I  therefore  resolved  to 
return,  and  recommend  selecting  some  suitable  place 


140  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

for  a  permanent  camp,  build  a  cabin,  put  in  such  effects 
as  we  could  not  pack  out,  and  leave  our  wagons  and 
effects  in  the  charge  of  some  persons  until  we  could 
return  the  next  season,  unincumbered  with  our  families 
and  cattle,  and  finish  the  road ;  —  or  otherwise  to  return 
to  the  Dalles  with  our  teams,  where  we  could  leave  our 
baggage  in  charge  of  the  missionaries,  and  then  descend 
the  Columbia.  And  when  my  mind  was  fully  made 
up,  we  were  not  long  in  carrying  it  into  execution. 

We  accordingly  ascended  the  mountain,  as  it  was 
better  traveling  than  in  the  bottom.  The  distance  to 
the  summit  was  about  four  miles,  and  the  way  was 
sometimes  so  steep  as  to  render  it  necessary  to  pull  up 
by  the  bushes.  We  then  traveled  east  until  we  reached 
the  eastern  point  of  this  mountain,  and  descended  to 
the  bottom,  the  base  of  which  we  had  traversed  the  day 
before.  We  then  struck  for  the  trail,  soon  found  it,  and 
followed  it  until  it  led  us  to  the  southern  end  of  the  wet 
prairie.  We  then  struck  for  the  lower  gap  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  camp,  crossed  over  and  descended  the  branch 
to  near  its  mouth,  where  we  found  four  of  our  company 
clearing  the  road,  the  remainder  having  returned  to 
Camp  creek  for  teams.  But  as  we  had  traveled  about 
fifty  miles  this  day,  I  was  unable  to  reach  the  camp. 

October  15.  This  morning  we  all  started  for  campr 
carrying  [75]  with  us  our  tools  and  provisions.  We 
reached  camp  about  two  P.  M.  Many  of  our  cattle 
could  not  be  found,  but  before  night  nearly  all  were 
brought  into  camp.  The  whole  matter  was  then  laid 
before  the  company,  when  it  was  agreed  that  we  should 
remove  over  to  the  bottom,  near  the  small  creek,  and 
if  the  weather  was  unfavorable,  leave  our  baggage  and 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  141 

wagons,  and  pack  out  the  families  as  soon  as  possible. 
But  as  some  were  out  of  provisions,  it  was  important 
that  a  messenger  should  be  sent  on  ahead  for  provis- 
ions, and  horses  to  assist  in  packing  out.  Mr.  Buffum, 
and  lady,  concluded  to  pack  out  what  articles  they 
could,  and  leave  a  man  to  take  charge  of  the  teams  and 
cattle,  until  he  returned  with  other  horses.  He  kindly 
furnished  me  with  one  of  his  horses  to  ride  to  the  settle- 
ment. He  also  supplied  the  wife  of  Mr.  Thompson 
with  a  horse.  Mr.  Barlow  and  Mr.  Rector  made  a 
proposition  to  continue  working  the  road  until  the  party 
could  go  to  and  return  from  the  valley;  they  agreeing 
to  insure  the  safety  of  the  wagons,  if  compelled  to  remain 
through  the  winter,  by  being  paid  a  certain  per  cent, 
upon  the  valuation.  This  proposition  was  thought 
reasonable  by  some,  and  it  was  partially  agreed  to. 
And  as  there  were  some  who  had  no  horses  with  which 
to  pack  out  their  families,  they  started  on  foot  for  the 
valley,  designing  to  look  out  a  road  as  they  passed  along. 
Some  men  in  the  mean  time  were  to  remain  with  the 
camp,  which  as  above  stated  was  to  be  removed  to  the 
small  branch  on  Shutes'  fork;  and  those  who  intended 
pushing  out  at  once,  could  follow  up  it  to  the  Indian 
trail.  This  all  being  agreed  upon,  arrangements  were 
made  accordingly. 

October  16.  The  morning  was  lowering,  with  every 
indication  of  rain.  Messrs.  Barlow  and  Rector  started 
on  the  trip.115  All  hands  were  making  arrangements 

115  William  H.  Rector  settled  at  Champoeg,  which  district  he  represented 
in  the  legislature  of  1847.  During  the  gold  excitement  the  following  year,  he 
went  to  California,  but  returned  to  Oregon,  where  in  1857  he  was  instrumental 
in  starting  the  pioneer  woolen  mill  at  Salem,  of  which  for  some  time  he  was 
superintendent.  In  1861  he  was  commissioner  of  Indian  affairs,  with  head- 


142  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

for  moving  the  camp.  In  the  mean  time  Mr.  Buffum 
and  his  lady,  and  Mrs.  Thompson,  were  ready  to  start."' 
I  joined  them,  and  we  again  set  out  for  the  settlement. 
We  had  traveled  about  two  miles  when  it  commenced 
raining,  and  continued  raining  slightly  all  day.  We 
encamped  on  the  bottom  of  Shutes'  fork,  near  the  small 
branch.  It  rained  nearly  all  night. 

On  the  morning  of  the  iyth  October  after  our  horses 
had  filled  themselves,  we  packed  up  and  started.  It 
was  still  raining.  We  followed  up  this  bottom  to  the 
trail,  and  then  pursued  the  trail  over  Mount  Hood. 
Whilst  going  over  this  mountain  the  rain  poured  down 
in  torrents,  it  was  foggy,  and  very  cold.  We  arrived  at 
the  deep  ravine  at  about  four  P.  M.,  [76]  and  before  we 
ascended  the  opposite  bank  it  was  dark;  but  we  felt 
our  way  over  the  ridge,  and  round  the  point  to  the 
grassy  run.  Here  was  grazing  for  our  tired  horses, 

quarters  at  Portland.  In  later  life,  Rector  was  interested  in  railway  enter- 
prises. Popular  with  Oregon  settlers,  he  was  quite  commonly  known  as 
"Uncle  Billy."—  ED. 

n*  William  Gilbert  Buffum  was  born  in  Vermont  in  1804.  When  eleven 
years  of  age  his  family  removed  to  Ashtabula  County,  Ohio.  In  1825  Buffum 
went  to  Illinois  to  work  in  the  mines,  later  settling  in  Fulton  County,  and 
removing  to  Missouri  in  1841.  His  wife,  Caroline  Thurman,  was  born  in 
Ohio  in  1814.  After  their  long  journey  to  Oregon,  the  Buffums  settled  in 
Yamhill  County,  near  Amity,  where  they  afterwards  resided,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  year  spent  in  the  California  gold  fields.  Buffum  was  still  living  in 
Amity  in  1898.  See  his  reminiscences  in  Oregon  Pioneer  Association  Trans- 
actions, 1889,  pp.  42-44. 

Mrs.  Miriam  A.  Thompson  (nee  Robinson)  was  born  in  Illinois  (1826) 
and  married  the  year  before  the  migration  to  Oregon.  After  reaching  the 
Willamette  she  settled  in  Yamhill  County,  thence  removing  to  Clatsop  Plains, 
where  in  1848  her  husband  left  her  for  California.  There  he  was  murdered, 
and  in  1850  his  widow  married  Jeremiah  H.  Tuller,  after  1880  living  in  Douglas 
County.  For  her  own  account  of  her  adventures,  and  especially  this  trip 
across  the  Cascade  Mountains,  see  Oregon  Pioneer  Association  Transactions, 
1895,  pp.  87-90.—  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  143 

and  we  dismounted.  Upon  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
where  were  a  few  scattering  trees,  we  found  some  limbs 
and  sticks,  with  which  we  succeeded  in  getting  a  little 
fire.  We  then  found  a  few  sticks  and  constructed  a 
tent,  covering  it  with  blankets,  which  protected  our 
baggage  and  the  two  women.  Mr.  BufFum  and  myself 
stood  shivering  in  the  rain  around  the  fire,  and  when 
daylight  appeared,  it  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  look  at 
each  others'  lank  visages.  Our  horses  were  shivering 
with  the  cold,  the  rain  had  put  out  our  fire,  and  it  seemed 
as  though  every  thing  had  combined  to  render  us  miser- 
able. After  driving  our  horses  round  awhile,  they 
commenced  eating;  but  we  had  very  little  to  eat,  and 
were  not  troubled  much  in  cooking  it. 

October  18.  As  soon  as  our  horses  had  satisfied 
themselves  we  packed  up  and  ascended  the  mountain 
over  the  ridge,  and  for  two  miles  winding  around  up  and 
down  over  a  rough  surface  covered  with  grass.  The 
rain  was  falling  in  torrents,  and  it  was  so  foggy  that 
we  could  barely  see  the  trail.  We  at  length  went  down 
a  ridge  two  miles,  when  we  became  bewildered  in  the 
thick  bushes.  The  trail  had  entirely  disappeared.  We 
could  go  no  farther.  The  two  women  sat  upon  their 
horses  in  the  rain,  whilst  I  went  back  to  search  for  the 
right  trail;  Buffum  endeavoring  to  make  his  way  down 
the  mountain.  I  rambled  about  two  miles  up  the  moun- 
tain, where  I  found  the  right  trail,  and  immediately 
returned  to  inform  them  of  it.  Buffum  had  returned, 
and  of  course  had  not  found  the  trail.  We  then  ascended 
the  mountain  to  the  trail,  when  a  breeze  sprung  up 
and  cleared  away  the  fog.  We  could  then  follow  the 
trail. 


1 44  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

We  soon  saw  a  large  band  of  cattle  coming  up  the 
mountain,  and  in  a  short  time  met  a  party  of  men  follow- 
ing them.  They  had  started  from  the  Dalles  about 
eight  days  before,  and  encamped  that  night  four  or  five 
miles  below,  and  as  it  was  a  barren  spot,  their  cattle 
had  strayed  to  the  mountain  to  get  grass.  But  what 
was  very  gratifying,  they  informed  us  that  a  party  of 
men  from  Oregon  city,  with  provisions  for  our  company 
had  encamped  with  them,  and  were  then  at  their  camp. 
We  hastened  down  the  mountain,  and  in  a  few  hours 
arrived  at  the  camp.  But  imagine  our  feelings  when 
we  learned  that  those  having  provisions  for  us,  had 
despaired  of  finding  us,  and  [77]  having  already  been 
out  longer  than  was  expected,  had  returned  to  the  settle- 
ment, carrying  with  them  all  the  provisions,  save  what 
they  had  distributed  to  these  men.  We  were  wet,  cold, 
and  hungry,  and  would  not  be  likely  to  overtake  them. 
We  prevailed  upon  one  of  the  men  whom  we  found 
at  the  camp,  to  mount  one  of  our  horses,  and  follow 
them.  He  was  absent  about  ten  minutes,  when  he 
returned  and  informed  us  that  they  were  coming.  They 
soon  made  their  appearance.  This  revived  us,  and 
for  awhile  we  forgot  that  we  were  wet  and  cold.  They 
had  gone  about  six  miles  back,  when  some  good  spirit 
induced  them  to  return  to  camp,  and  make  one  more 
effort  to  find  us.  The  camp  was  half  a  mile  from  the 
creek,  and  we  had  nothing  but  two  small  coffee-pots, 
and  a  few  tin  cups,  to  carry  water  in ;  but  this  was 
trifling,  as  the  rain  was  still  pouring  down  upon  us. 
We  speedily  made  a  good  fire,  and  set  to  work  making 
a  tent,  which  we  soon  accomplished,  and  the  two  women 
prepared  us  a  good  supper  of  bread  and  coffee.  It  was 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  145 

a  rainy  night,  but  we  were  as  comfortable  as  the  circum- 
stances would  admit. 

October  19.  After  breakfast,  the  drovers  left  us;  and 
as  the  party  which  had  brought  us  provisions  had  been 
longer  out  than  had  been  contemplated,  Mr.  Stewart 
and  Mr.  Gilmore  wished  to  return.  It  was  determined 
that  Mr.  Buffum,  the  two  females,  Mr.  Stewart,  and  Mr. 
N.  Gilmore,  should  go  on  to  the  settlement,  and  that 
Mr.  C.  Gilmore,  and  the  Indian  who  had  been  sent 
along  to  assist  in  driving  the  horses,  and  myself,  should 
hasten  on  with  the  provisions  to  the  camp.  We  were 
soon  on  the  way,  and  climbing  up  the  mountain.  The 
horses  were  heavily  loaded,  and  in  many  places  the 
mountain  was  very  slippery,  and  of  course  we  had  great 
difficulty  in  getting  along.  It  was  still  raining  heavily, 
and  the  fog  so  thick  that  a  person  could  not  see  more 
than  fifteen  feet  around.  We  traveled  about  two  miles 
up  the  mountain,  when  we  found  that  whilst  it  had  been 
raining  in  the  valley  it  had  been  snowing  on  the  mountain. 
The  trail  was  so  covered  with  snow  that  it  was  difficult 
to  find  it,  and,  to  increase  our  difficulty,  the  Indian 
refused  to  go  any  farther.  We  showed  him  the  whip, 
which  increased  his  speed  a  little,  but  he  soon  forgot 
it,  was  very  sulky,  and  would  not  assist  in  driving.  We 
at  length  arrived  at  the  deep  ravine;  here  there  was  no 
snow,  and  we  passed  it  without  serious  difficulty.  Two 
of  our  packs  coming  off,  and  rolling  down  the  hill,  was 
the  only  serious  trouble  that  we  had.  When  we  ascended 
the  hill  to  [78]  the  eastern  side  of  the  gulf,  we  found 
the  snow  much  deeper  than  upon  the  western  side; 
besides,  it  had  drifted,  and  rendered  the  passage  over 
the  strip  of  the  old  snow  somewhat  dangerous,  as  in 


1 46  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

many  places  the  action  of  the  water  had  melted  the  snow 
upon  the  under  side,  and  left  a  thin  shell  over  the  surface, 
and  in  some  places  holes  had  melted  through.  We 
were  in  danger  of  falling  into  one  of  these  pits.  Coming 
to  one  of  these  ravines  where  the  snow  had  drifted  very 
much,  I  dismounted  in  order  to  pick  a  trail  through, 
but  before  this  was  completed,  our  horses  started  down 
the  bank.  I  had  discovered  two  of  these  pits,  and  ran 
to  head  the  horses  and  turn  them;  but  my  riding  horse 
started  to  run,  and  went  directly  between  the  two  pits; 
his  weight  jarred  the  crust  loose,  and  it  fell  in,  present- 
ing a  chasm  of  some  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  in  depth, 
but  the  horse,  being  upon  the  run,  made  his  way  across 
the  pit.  The  other  horses,  hearing  the  noise  and  seeing 
the  pits  before  them,  turned  higher  up,  where  the  snow 
and  ice  were  thicker,  and  all  reached  the  opposite  side 
in  safety. 

Our  Indian  friend  now  stopped,  and  endeavored  to 
turn  the  horses  back,  but  two  to  one  was  an  uneven  game, 
and  it  was  played  to  his  disadvantage.  He  wanted  an 
additional  blanket;  this  I  promised  him,  and  he  con- 
sented to  go  on.  We  soon  met  two  Indians,  on  their 
way  from  the  Dalles  to  Oregon  city;  our  Indian  con- 
versed with  them  awhile,  and  then  informed  us  of  his 
intention  to  return  with  them.  Whilst  parleying  with 
him,  a  party  of  men  from  our  camp  came  up  the 
mountain  with  their  cattle;  they  had  driven  their  teams 
to  the  small  branch  of  the  De  Smites,  twelve  miles 
below  the  mountain,  where  they  had  left  the  families, 
and  started  out  with  their  cattle  before  the  stream  should 
get  too  high  to  cross.  Whilst  we  were  conversing  with 
these  men,  our  Indian  had  succeeded  in  getting  one 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  147 

loose  horse,  and  the  one  which  he  was  riding,  so  far 
from  the  band  of  pack-horses  that,  in  the  fog,  we  could 
not  see  him,  and  he  returned  to  the  settlement  with 
the  two  Indians  we  had  just  met. 

Our  horses  were  very  troublesome  to  drive,  as  they 
had  ate  nothing  for  thirty-six  hours;  but  we  succeeded 
in  getting  them  over  the  snow,  and  down  to  the  grassy 
ridge,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night.  My  friend 
Gilmore  shouldered  a  bag  of  flour,  carried  it  half  a 
mile  down  the  mountain  to  a  running  branch,  opened 
the  sack,  poured  in  water,  and  mixed  up  bread.  In 
the  mean  time,  I  had  built  a  fire.  We  wrapped  the 
dough  around  sticks  and  baked  it  before  the  fire,  heated 
water  in  our  [79]  tin  cups  and  made  a  good  dish  of 
tea,  and  passed  a  very  comfortable  night.  It  had  ceased 
raining  before  sunset,  and  the  morning  was  clear  and 
pleasant;  we  forgot  the  past,  and  looked  forward  to  a 
bright  future. 

October  20.  At  8  o'clock  we  packed  up,  took  the 
trail  down  the  mountain  to  the  gravelly  bottom,  and 
then  down  the  creek  to  the  wagon-camp,  which  we 
reached  at  3  P.  M. ;  and  if  we  had  not  before  forgotten 
our  troubles,  we  certainly  should  have  done  so  upon 
arriving  at  camp.  Several  families  were  entirely  out 
of  provisions,  others  were  nearly  so,  and  all  were  expect- 
ing to  rely  upon  their  poor  famished  cattle.  True, 
this  would  have  prevented  starvation;  but  it  would  have 
been  meagre  diet,  and  there  was  no  certainty  of  having 
cattle  long,  as  there  was  but  little  grass.  A  happier 
set  of  beings  I  never  saw,  and  the  thanks  bestowed 
upon  us  by  these  families  would  have  compensated 
for  no  little  toil  and  hardship.  They  were  supplied 


148  Early  Western  Travels  [¥01.30 

with  an  amount  of  provisions  sufficient  to  last  them 
until  they  could  reach  the  settlements.  After  waiting 
one  day,  Mr.  Gilmore  left  the  camp  for  the  settlement, 
taking  with  him  three  families;  others  started  about 
the  same  time,  and  in  a  few  days  all  but  three  families 
had  departed.  These  were  Mr.  Barlow's,  Mr.  Rector's, 
and  Mr.  Caplinger's,117  all  of  whom  had  gone  on  to  the 
settlement  for  horses.  Ten  men  yet  remained  at  camp, 
and,  after  selecting  a  suitable  place  for  our  wagon-yard, 
we  erected  a  cabin  for  the  use  of  those  who  were  to 
remain  through  the  winter,  and  to  stow  away  such  of 
our  effects  as  we  could  not  pack  out.  This  being  done, 
nothing  remained  but  to  await  the  return  of  those  who 
had  gone  for  pack  horses.  We  improved  the  time  in 
hunting  and  gathering  berries,  until  the  25th,  when 
four  of  us,  loaded  with  heavy  packs,  started  on  foot 
for  the  valley  of  the  Willamette. 

But  before  entering  upon  this  trip,  I  will  state  by 
what  means  the  timely  assistance  afforded  us  in  the 
way  of  provisions  was  effected.  The  first  party  starting 
for  the  settlement  from  the  Dalles,  after  we  had  deter- 
mined to  take  the  mountain  route,  carried  the  news 
to  Oregon  city  that  we  were  attempting  a  passage  across 
the  Cascade  mountains,  and  that  we  should  need  pro- 
visions. The  good  people  of  that  place  immediately 
raised  by  donation  about  eleven  hundred  pounds  of 
flour,  over  one  hundred  pounds  of  sugar,  some  tea, 
&c.,  hired  horses,  and  the  Messrs.  Gilmore  and  Mr. 


117  Jacob  C.  Caplinger  was  born  in  Virginia  in  1815,  of  German  descent. 
In  1837  he  removed  to  Illinois,  in  1841  marrying  Jane  Woodsides.  After 
reaching  the  settlements,  the  Caplingers  remained  at  Oregon  City  until  1847, 
when  they  purchased  a  farm  near  Salem,  where  they  were  living  in  1892. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  149 

Stewart  volunteered  to  bring  these  articles  to  us.118  The 
only  expense  we  were  asked  to  defray  was  the  hire  of 
the  horses.  They  [80]  belonged  to  an  Indian  chief, 
and  of  course  he  had  to  be  paid.  The  hire  was  about 
forty  dollars,  which  brought  the  flour  to  about  four 
dollars  per  hundred,  as  there  were  about  one  thousand 
pounds  when  they  arrived.  Those  who  had  the  means 
paid  at  once,  and  those  who  were  unable  to  pay  gave 
their  due  bills.  Many  of  the  families  constructed  pack- 
saddles  and  put  them  on  oxen,  and,  in  one  instance, 
a  feather  bed  was  rolled  up  and  put  upon  an  ox;  but 
the  animal  did  not  seem  to  like  his  load,  and  ran  into- 
the  woods,  scattering  the  feathers  in  every  direction: 
he  was  finally  secured,  but  not  until  the  bed  was  ruined. 
In  most  cases,  the  oxen  performed  well. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  25th  October,  accompanied 
by  Messrs.  Creighton,  Farwell,  and  Buckley,  I  again 
started  to  the  valley.  We  had  traveled  but  a  short 
distance  when  we  met  Barlow  and  Rector,  who  had 
been  to  the  settlement.  They  had  some  horses,  and 
expected  others  in  a  short  time.  They  had  induced 
a  few  families  whom  they  met  near  Mount  Hood  to 
return  with  them,  and  try  their  chance  back  to  the 
Dalles;  but,  after  waiting  one  day,  they  concluded 
to  try  the  mountain  trip  again.  We  traveled  up  the 
bottom  to  the  trail,  where  we  encamped;  about  this 

118  Matthew  (not  N.)  Gilmore  came  out  in  1843,  settling  on  the  Tualatin 
Plains,  where  he  was  chosen  delegate  to  the  provisional  legislature  of  1844. 
Gilmore  was  a  farmer,  not  prominent  in  public  life. 

Charles  Gilmore  appears  to  have  been  of  the  migration  of  1844. 

Peter  G.  Stewart  came  with  the  Applegate  party  of  1843,  and  was  one 
of  the  executive  committee  of  three,  chosen  in  1844.  He  was  a  man  of  calm, 
dispassionate  temper,  who  had  been  a  jeweler  in  the  states.  In  1853  he  was 
port  surveyor  at  Pacific  City. —  ED. 


150  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

time,  it  commenced  raining,  which  continued  through 
the  night. 

October  26.  This  morning  at  eight  o'clock,  we  were 
on  the  way.  It  was  rainy,  and  disagreeable  traveling. 
We  followed  the  trail  over  the  main  part  of  the  mountain, 
when  we  overtook  several  families,  who  had  left  us  on 
the  twenty-second.  Two  of  the  families  had  encamped 
the  night  before  in  the  bottom  of  the  deep  ravine;  night 
overtook  them,  and  they  were  compelled  to  camp,  with- 
out fuel,  or  grass  for  cattle  or  horses.  Water  they  had 
in  plenty,  for  it  was  pouring  down  upon  them  all  the 
night.  One  of  their  horses  broke  loose,  and  getting  to 
the  provision  sack,  destroyed  the  whole  contents.  There 
were  nine  persons  in  the  two  families,  four  of  them 
small  children,  and  it  was  about  eighty  miles  to  the  nearest 
settlement.  The  children,  as  well  as  the  grown  people, 
were  nearly  barefoot,  and  poorly  clad.  Their  names 
were  Powell  and  Senters.  Another  family  by  the  name 
of  Hood,  had  succeeded  in  getting  U9  up  the  gravelly 
hill,  and  finding  grass  for  their  animals,  and  a  little 
fuel,  had  shared  their  scanty  supply  with  these  two 
families,  and  when  we  overtook  them  they  were  all 
encamped  near  each  other.  We  gave  them  about  half 
of  our  provisions,  and  encamped  near  them.  Mr. 
Hood  kindly  furnished  us  with  a  [81]  wagon  cover, 
with  which  we  constructed  a  tent,  under  which  we 
rested  for  the  night. 

October   27.    The   two   families  who   had   lost   their 


119  According  to  H.  H.  Bancroft,  History  oj  Oregon,  i,  pp.  525,  526,  these 
were  the  families  of  Andrew  Hood  and  Sharp  C.  Senters.  Rev.  Theophilus 
Powell  was  born  in  Kentucky,  left  for  Oregon  from  Missouri,  and  died  in 
Marion  County,  Oregon,  in  1861. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  151 

provisions  succeeded  in  finding  a  heifer  that  belonged 
to  one  of  the  companies  traveling  in  advance  of  us. 
In  rambling  upon  the  rocky  cliffs  above  the  trail  for 
grass,  it  had  fallen  down  the  ledge,  and  was  so  crippled 
as  not  to  be  able  to  travel.  The  owners  had  left  it,  and 
as  the  animal  was  in  good  condition,  it  was  slaughtered 
and  the  meat  cured. 

After  traveling  four  miles  through  the  fresh  snow, 
(which  had  fallen  about  four  inches  deep  during  the 
night,)  we  came  to  where  the  trail  turned  down  to  the 
Sandy.  We  were  glad  to  get  out  of  the  snow,  as  we 
wore  moccasins,  and  the  bottoms  being  worn  off,  our 
feet  were  exposed.  Two  miles  brought  us  to  where  we 
left  the  Sandy,  and  near  the  place  where  we  met  the 
party  with  provisions;  here  we  met  Mr.  Buffum,  Mr. 
Lock,  and  a  Mr.  Smith,1"  with  fourteen  pack-horses, 
going  for  effects  to  Fort  Deposit  —  the  name  which  we 
had  given  our  wagon  camp. 

The  numerous  herds  of  cattle  which  had  passed 
along  had  so  ate  up  the  grass  and  bushes,  that  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  the  horses  could  procure  a  sufficiency 
to  sustain  life.  Among  the  rest,  was  a  horse  for  me; 
and  as  I  had  a  few  articles  at  the  fort,  Mr.  Buffum  was 
to  take  the  horse  along  and  pack  them  out.  Two  of  his 
horses  were  so  starved  as  to  be  unable  to  climb  the 
mountains,  and  we  took  them  back  with  us.  The 
weather  by  this  time  had  cleared  up;  we  separated, 
and  each  party  took  its  way. 

120  Several  members  of  the  party  of  1845  bore  the  name  of  Smith;  probably 
this  was  Simeon,  born  in  Ohio  in  1823,  removed  to  Missouri  in  1838,  and 
settled  in  Marion  County,  finally  making  his  home  in  Salem,  where  he  died  in 
1878.  See  reference  in  Stephen  Staats's  address,  in  Oregon  Pioneer  Association 
Transactions,  1877,  p.  55;  also  ibid.,  1878,  pp.  92,  93. —  ED. 


152  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol. 30 

A  short  distance  below  this,  our  trail  united  with  one 
which  starting  from  the  Dalles,  runs  north  of  Mount 
Hood,  and  until  this  season  was  the  only  trail  traveled 
by  the  whites.  We  proceeded  down  the  Sandy,  crossing 
it  several  times,  through  thickets  of  spruce  and  alder, 
until  we  arrived  at  the  forks,  which  were  about  fifteen 
miles  from  the  base  of  Mount  Hood.  The  bottom  of 
the  Sandy  is  similar  to  the  branch  of  De  Shutes  which 
we  ascended;  but  in  most  cases  the  gravel  and  stones 
are  covered  with  moss;  portions  of  it  are  entirely  destitute 
of  vegetation.  The  mountains  are  very  high,  and  are 
mostly  covered  with  timber.  At  a  few  points  are  ledges 
of  grayish  rock,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  mountain  is 
composed  of  sand  and  gravel;  it  is  much  cut  up  by  deep 
ravines,  or  kanyons.  The  trail  is  sometimes  very  difficult 
to  follow,  on  account  of  the  brush  and  logs;  about  our 
camp  are  a  few  bunches  of  [82]  brakes,  which  the 
horses  eat  greedily.  The  stream  coming  in  from  the 
south-east  is  the  one  which  I  followed  down  on  the  i4th, 
and  from  appearance  I  came  within  five  miles  of  the 
forks.  The  bottom  in  this  vicinity  is  more  than  a  mile 
wide,  and  is  covered  with  spruce,  hemlock  and  alder, 
with  a  variety  of  small  bushes. 

October  28.  We  started  early,  and  after  having 
traveled  several  miles,  found  a  patch  of  good  grass, 
where  we  halted  our  horses  for  an  hour.  We  then 
traveled  on,  crossing  the  Sandy  three  times.  This 
is  a  rapid  stream;  the  water  is  cold,  and  the  bottom  very 
stony.  We  made  about  fifteen  or  sixteen  miles  only, 
as  we  could  not  get  our  horses  along  faster.  We  struck 
into  a  road  recently  opened  for  the  passage  of  wagons. 
Mr.  Taylor,  from  Ohio,  who  had  left  our  company  with 


1845-1846]  Palmer s  Journal  153 

his  family  and  cattle  on  the  yth,  had  arrived  safely  in 
the  valley,  and  had  procured  a  party  of  men  and  had 
sent  them  into  the  mountains  to  meet  us  at  the  crossing 
of  Sandy.121  They  had  come  up  this  far,  and  commenced 
cutting  the  road  toward  the  settlements.  After  traveling 
this  road  five  or  six  miles  we  came  upon  their  camp, 
where  we  again  found  something  to  eat;  our  provisions 
having  been  all  consumed.  The  road  here  runs  through 
a  flat  or  bottom  of  several  miles  in  width,  and  extending 
ten  or  twelve  miles  down  the  Sandy;  it  bears  towards 
the  north,  whilst  the  creek  forms  an  elbow  to  the  south. 
The  soil  is  good,  and  is  covered  with  a  very  heavy  growth 
of  pine  and  white  cedar  timber.  I  saw  some  trees  of 
white  cedar  that  were  seven  feet  in  diameter,  and  at 
least  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  I  measured 
several  old  trees  that  had  fallen,  which  were  one  hundred 
and  eighty  feet  in  length,  and  about  six  feet  in  diameter 
at  the  root.  We  passed  some  small  prairies  and  several 
beautiful  streams,  which  meandered  through  the  timber. 
The  ground  lies  sloping  to  the  south,  as  it  is  on  the  north 
side  of  the  creek.  In  the  evening  it  commenced  raining 
a  little.  We  remained  at  this  camp  all  night. 

October  29.    This  morning,  after  breakfast,  we  parted 


121  Colonel  James  Taylor  was  born  in  Pennsylvania  (1809),  of  Scotch-Irish 
ancestry.  In  1823  he  removed  to  Ohio,  where  he  was  active  in  the  state  militia 
and  connected  with  the  Indian  trade.  His  wife  was  Esther  d'Armon,  who 
came  with  him  to  Oregon.  See  her  biography  in  Oregon  Pioneer  Association 
Transactions,  1897,  pp.  103-105,  wherein  is  recounted  her  experience  in  cross- 
ing the  Cascades.  Colonel  Taylor  removed  in  1846  to  Clatsop  Plains,  but  at 
the  outbreak  of  the  Cayuse  War  (1847)  carried  his  family  back  to  Oregon  City, 
while  he  served  in  the  extempore  army  as  assistant  commissary  to  General 
Palmer.  In  1849-51  Taylor  was  chosen  first  territorial  treasurer.  About 
1850  the  Taylors  returned  to  Clatsop,  removing  to  Astoria  about  1855,  where 
they  passed  the  remainder  of  their  lives,  both  dying  in  1893. —  ED. 


154  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

with  our  friends  and  pursued  our  way.  We  soon  ascended 
a  ridge  which  we  followed  for  seven  or  eight  miles,  alter- 
nately prairie  and  fern  openings.  In  these  openings 
the  timber  is;not  large,  but  grows  rather  scrubby.  There 
are  numerous  groves  of  beautiful  pine  timber,  tall  and 
straight.  The  soil  is  of  a  reddish  cast,  and  very  mellow, 
and  I  think  would  produce  well.  We  came  to  the  termi- 
nation of  this  ridge  and  descended  to  the  bottom,  which 
has  been  covered  with  heavy  timber,  but  which  [83] 
has  been  killed  by  fire.  From  this  ridge  we  could  see 
several  others,  of  a  similar  appearance,  descending 
gradually  towards  the  west. 

We  here  crossed  the  creek  or  river,  which  was  deep 
and  rapid;  and  as  our  horses  were  barely  able  to  carry 
themselves,  we  were  compelled  to  wade  the  stream. 
Buckly  had  been  sick  for  several  days,  and  not  able  to 
carry  his  pack;  and  if  at  other  times  I  regretted  the 
necessity  of  being  compelled  to  carry  his  pack,  I  now 
found  it  of  some  advantage  in  crossing  the  stream,  as  it 
assisted  in  keeping  me  erect.  Buckly  in  attempting 
to  wade  across,  had  so  far  succeeded  as  to  reach  the 
middle  of  the  stream,  where  he  stopped,  and  was  about 
giving  way  when  he  was  relieved  by  Farwell,  a  strong 
athletic  yankee  from  the  state  of  Maine.  In  crossing 
a  small  bottom,  one  of  the  horses  fell;  we  were  unable 
to  raise  him  to  his  feet,  and  were  compelled  to  leave 
him.  The  other  we  succeeded  in  getting  to  the  top  of 
the  hill,  where  we  were  also  compelled  to  leave  him. 
The  former  died,  but  the  latter  was  taken  in  a  few  days 
after  by  those  who  were  opening  the  road.  After  being 
relieved  of  the  burthen  of  the  two  horses,  we  pushed 
forward  on  foot,  as  fast  as  Buddy's  strength  and  our 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  155 

heavy  packs  would  allow;  and  as  it  had  been  raining  all 
day,  our  packs  were  of  double  their  former  weight.  At 
dark  we  met  a  party  of  men  who  had  been  through  with 
a  drove  of  cattle,  and  were  returning  with  pack  horses 
for  the  three  families  who  were  yet  at  Fort  Deposit.  We 
encamped  with  them.  After  crossing  the  Sandy  our 
course  was  south-west,  over  a  rolling  and  prairie  country. 
The  prairie,  as  well  as  the  timber  land,  was  covered 
with  fern.  The  soil  was  of  a  reddish  cast,  and  very 
mellow,  as  are  all  the  ridges  leading  from  the  moun- 
tain to  the  Willamette  or  Columbia  river.  We  traveled 
this  day  sixteen  or  seventeen  miles. 

October  30.  This  morning  was  rainy  as  usual.  Four 
miles  brought  us  to  the  valley  of  the  Clackamis,  which 
was  here  five  or  six  miles  wide.  The  road  was  over  a 
rolling  country  similar  to  that  we  passed  over  on  yester- 
day. To  the  left  of  the  trail  we  saw  a  house  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill;  we  made  for  it,  and  found  some  of  our  friends 
who  had  started  from  camp  with  C.  Gilmore.  The 
claim  was  held  by  a  man  named  McSwain.1"  We  tarried 
here  until  the  morning  of  the  3ist,  when  we  again  started 
for  Oregon  city.  Our  trail  ran  for  five  or  six  miles  along 
the  foot  of  the  hill,  through  prairie  and  timber  land.  The 
soil  looks  good,  but  is  rather  inclined  to  gravel;  [84] 
numerous  streams  flow  down  from  the  high  ground, 
which  rises  gradually  to  a  rolling  fern  plain,  such  as  we 
traveled  over  on  the  28th,  and  29th.  We  then  continued 
upon  the  high  ground  seven  or  eight  miles,  alternately 
through  timber  and  fern  prairies.  We  then  turned 
down  to  Clackamis  bottom,  which  is  here  about  one 
mile  wide;  this  we  followed  down  for  three  miles,  when 

m  Samuel  McSwain,  of  the  emigration  of  1844. —  ED. 


156  Early  Western  Trawls  [¥01.30 

night  overtook  us,  and  we  put  up  at  Mr.  Hatche's,  hav- 
ing spent  just  one  month  in  the  Cascade  mountains.123 

November  i.  This  morning  we  left  Hatche's,  and  in 
two  miles  travel  we  reached  the  crossings  of  the  Clack- 
amis  river.  At  this  point  it  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wide,  the  banks  of  gentle  descent,  the  water  wending  its 
way  for  the  noble  Columbia  over  a  pebbly  bottom.  Here 
is  a  village  of  about  twenty  families,  inhabited  by  the 
Clackamis  Indians,  who  are  few  in  number,  apparently 
harmless,  and  caring  for  nothing  more  than  a  few  fish, 
a  little  game,  or  such  subsistence  as  is  barely  sufficient 
to  support  life.  There  are  but  two  or  three  houses 
in  the  village;  they  are  made  by  setting  up  side  and 
centre  posts  in  the  ground,  the  latter  being  the  highest, 
to  receive  a  long  pole  to  uphold  puncheons  split  out  of 
cedar,  which  form  the  covering;  the  sides  are  enclosed 
with  the  same  material,  in  an  upright  position.  These 
puncheons  are  held  to  their  places  by  leather  thongs, 
fastened  around  them  to  the  poles  that  lay  upon  the  posts. 
After  examining  this  little  community,  the  remains  of  a 
once  powerful  and  warlike  people,124  we  obtained  the 

123  Peter  H.  Hatch,  who  came  to  Oregon  by  sea  in  1843. —  ED. 

124  The  Clackamas  Indians  were  a  branch  of  the  Upper  Chinook,  which  had 
long  inhabited  the  river  valley  called  by  their  name.     Lewis  and  Clark  reported 
(1806)  that  there  were  eleven  villages  of  this  tribe,  with  a  population  of  eight 
hundred.     See  Thwaites,  Original  Journals  oj  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition 
(New  York,  1905),  iv,  p.  255;  vi,  p.  118.     The  Indian  agent  for  1851  estimated 
their  number  at  eighty-eight.     The  village  where  Palmer  tarried  was  the  one 
visited  in  1841  by  members  of  the  Wilkes  exploring  expedition.     A  conflict  for 
influence  over  this  tribe  was  in  progress  at  the  time,  between  the  Catholic  and 
Methodist  missionaries  stationed  at  the  Falls  of  the  Willamette.     Captain 
William  Clark  thus  describes  their  huts:  "they  build  their  houses  in  the  same 
form  with  those  of  the  Columbian  vally  of  wide  split  boa[r]ds  and  covered 
with  the  bark  of  the  white  cedar  which  is  the  entire  length  of  one  side  of  the 
roof  and  jut  over  at  the  eve  about  18  inches." —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmers  Journal  157 

use  of  their  canoes,  crossed  over  the  river,  and  after  two 
miles  further  travel  we  reached  a  point  that  had  long 
been  a  desired  object;  where  we  were  to  have  rest  and 
refreshment. 

We  were  now  at  the  place  destined  at  no  distant 
period  to  be  an  important  point  in  the  commercial 
history  of  the  Union  —  Oregon  City.125  Passing  through 
the  timber  that  lies  to  the  east  of  the  city,  we  beheld 
Oregon  and  the  Falls  of  the  Willamette  at  the  same 
moment.  We  were  so  filled  with  gratitude  that  we 
had  reached  the  settlements  of  the  white  man,  and  with 
admiration  at  the  appearance  of  the  large  sheet  of  water 
rolling  over  the  Falls,  that  we  stopped,  and  in  this  moment 
of  happiness  recounted  our  toils,  in  thought,  with  more 
rapidity  than  tongue  can  express  or  pen  write.  Here  we 
hastily  scanned  over  the  distance  traveled,  from  point 
to  point,  which  we  computed  to  be  in  miles  as  follows, 
viz:  From  Independence  to  Fort  Laramie,  629  miles; 
from  Fort  Laramie  [85]  to  Fort  Hall,  585  miles;  from 
Fort  Hall  to  Fort  Bois,  281  miles;  from  Fort  Bois  to 
the  Dalles,  305  miles;  from  the  Dalles  to  Oregon  City, 
(by  the  wagon  route  south  of  Mount  Hood,)  160  miles, 
making  the  total  distance  from  Independence  to  Oregon 
city,  1960  miles.  Actual  measurement  will  vary  these 
distances,  most  probably  lessen  them;  and  it  is  very 
certain,  that  by  bridging  the  streams,  the  travel  will 
be  much  shortened,  by  giving  to  it  a  more  direct  course, 
and  upon  ground  equally  favorable  for  a  good  road. 


OREGON  CITY.    Now  at  rest,  having  arrived  at  this 

1JS  For  the  founding  of  Oregon  City  see  De  Smet's  Oregon  Missions,  in 
our  volume  xxix,  p.  180,  note  76. —  ED. 


158  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

place,  before  entering  upon  a  general  description  of  the 
country,  I  will  give  a  short  account  of  Oregon  city,  as  it 
appeared  to  me.  This  town  is  located  upon  the  east 
side  of  the  Willamette  river,  and  at  the  Falls.  It  is  about 
thirty  miles  above  the  junction  of  the  Willamette  with 
the  Columbia,  following  the  meanders  of  the  river;  but, 
directly  from  the  Columbia  at  Vancouver,  it  is  only  about 
twenty  miles.  It  was  laid  out  by  Dr.  M'Laughlin,  in 
1842,  who  holds  a  claim  of  six  hundred  and  forty  acres 
upon  the  east  side  of  the  river.  From  the  river,  upon 
this  side,  immediately  at  the  Falls,  there  rises  a  rocky 
bluff  of  about  eighty  feet  in  height,  which  bears  off 
to  the  north-east.  Passing  down  the  river,  the  land 
lies  about  ten  feet  lower  than  the  surface  of  the  water 
above  the  Falls.  This  plateau  extends  for  about  one- 
fourth  of  a  mile,  when  there  is  a  further  descent  of  about 
fifteen  feet,  from  which  a  level  and  fertile  bottom  skirts 
the  Willamette  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  to  where  the  waters 
of  the  Clackamis  are  united  with  those  of  the  Willamette. 
Upon  the  plateau,  immediately  below,  and  a  small  portion 
of  the  higher  ground  above  the  Falls,  is  the  portion  of 
his  grant,  that  Dr.  M'Laughlin  has  laid  off  in  town  lots.1" 
Three  years  ago,  this  land  was  covered  with  a  dense 
forest,  which  is  now  cleared  off,  to  make  room  for  the 
erection  of  houses  to  accommodate  the  inhabitants  of 
the  town. 

There  were  already  erected,  when  I  left  there,  about 
one  hundred  houses,  most  of  them  not  only  commodious, 
but  neat.  Among  the  public  buildings,  the  most  con- 
spicuous were  the  neat  Methodist  church,  which  is 

121  For  a  sketch  of  Dr.  John  McLoughlin  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  296,  note 
81. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  159 

located  near  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  and  a  splendid 
Catholic  chapel,  which  stands  near  the  river  and  the 
bluff  bank  at  the  lower  part  of  the  town  site.127  There 
are  two  grist  mills;  one  owned  by  M'Laughlin,  having 
three  sets  of  buhr  runners,  and  will  compare  well  with 
most  of  the  mills  in  the  States;  the  other  is  a  smaller  mill, 
[86]  owned  by  Governor  Abernethy  and  Mr.  Beers.128 
At  each  of  these  grist-mills  there  are  also  saw-mills, 
which  cut  a  great  deal  of  plank  for  the  use  of  emigrants. 
There  are  four  stores,  two  taverns,  one  hatter,  one 
tannery,  three  tailor  shops,  two  cabinet-makers,  two 
silversmiths,  one  cooper,  two  blacksmiths,  one  physician, 
three  lawyers,  one  printing  office,  (at  which  the  Oregon 
Spectator  is  printed,  semi-monthly,  at  five  dollars  per 
annum,)129  one  lath  machine,  and  a  good  brick  yard  in 

127  De  Smet  describes  the  building  of  the  Catholic  church  in  his  Oregon 
Missions,  our  volume  xxix,  p.  167. —  ED. 

118  In  1843  the  Wallamet  Milling  Company  was  organized  and  proceeded 
to  erect  both  flour  and  grist  mills  on  an  island  near  the  falls,  in  order  to  accom- 
modate the  settlers,  who  before  their  erection  had  been  dependent  upon  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  mills  near  Vancouver.  The  founders  of  this  enter- 
prise were  members  of  the  Methodist  mission. 

Governor  George  Abernethy  of  New  York  (born  in  1807)  came  to  Oregon 
as  steward  of  the  party  of  re-inforcement  arriving  in  the  "Lausanne"  (1840). 
His  business  capacity  was  appreciated  by  the  members  of  the  mission,  and 
he  was  soon  established  as  a  merchant  at  Oregon  City.  Here  he  took  promi- 
nent part  in  the  organization  of  the  provisional  government,  of  which  he  was 
elected  governor  in  1845.  Re-elected  the  following  year,  Abernethy  continued 
in  this  office  until  the  arrival  of  Governor  Joseph  Lane  (1849),  sent  out  as 
first  territorial  governor  by  the  United  States.  During  the  troubles  incident 
to  the  Whitman  massacre,  Governor  Abernethy  acted  with  discretion  and 
promptness,  and  retained  the  good  will  of  Oregonians  during  his  entire  term 
of  office.  After  retiring  from  public  service  he  continued  in  mercantile  pur- 
suits, dying  at  Portland  in  1877.  See  his  portrait  in  H.  S.  Lyman,  History 
of  Oregon,  iii,  p.  286.  For  Alanson  Beers  see  Farnham's  Travels  in  our  volume 
xxix,  p.  21,  note  14. —  ED. 

129  In  1844  the  Oregon  Printing  Association  was  formed,  and  George  Aber- 
nethy sent  to  New  York  for  a  press  upon  which  was  printed  the  first  number 


160  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

active  operation.  There  are  also  quite  a  number  of 
carpenters,  masons,  &c.,  in  constant  employment,  at  good 
wages,  in  and  about  this  village.  The  population  is 
computed  at  about  six  hundred  white  inhabitants,  exclu- 
sive of  a  few  lodges  of  Indians. 

The  Indians  spend  most  of  their  nights  in  gambling. 
They  have  a  game  peculiar  to  the  tribes  of  the  lower 
Columbia,  and  as  I  have  not  seen  it  described,  I  will 
mention  it  here.  Six  men  meet  in  their  lodge,  when  they 
divide  among  themselves  into  partners  of  three  on  each 
side,  then  seat  themselves,  with  a  pole  between  the  parties; 
the  middle  man  on  one  of  the  sides  has  a  small  bone 
or  stick  which  he  holds  in  his  hand;  his  partners  upon 
the  left  and  right  keep  up  a  regular  knocking  upon  the 
pole  with  sticks,  and  singing  of  songs.  The  man  with 
the  bone  keeps  shifting  it  as  quickly  as  possible  from 
hand  to  hand,  to  deceive  the  middle  man  of  the  opposite 
side,  as  to  which  hand  holds  the  bone;  after  he  is  satisfied, 
he  stops  and  inquires  of  his  opponent  in  which  hand  he 
holds  it.  If  the  opponent  guesses  rightly,  he  throws 
the  bone,  with  a  small  pointed  stick,  to  the  winner,  who 
goes  through  the  same  ceremony  as  the  loser  had  done; 
but  if  the  man  guesses  wrongly  as  to  the  hand  that  holds 
the  bone,  he  hands  over  a  little  pointed  stick.  Thus 
they  keep  it  up  until  one  or  the  other  has  won  a  certain 
number  of  pointed  sticks,  which  they  have  agreed  shall 
constitute  the  game,  when  the  stakes  are  delivered  over 

of  the  Oregon  Spectator,  February  6,  1846.  Its  first  editor  was  Colonel  Wil- 
liam G.  T'Vault,  a  pioneer  of  1845;  ^e  was  succeeded  by  Henry  A.  G.  Lee, 
George  L.  Curry,  Aaron  E.  Wait,  and  Rev.  Wilson  Blain,  successively. 
Although  several  times  suspended  for  brief  periods,  the  Spectator  was  published 
until  1855.  For  an  account  see  George  H.  Himes,  "  The  History  of  the  Press 
of  Oregon,  1839-1850,"  in  Oregon  Historical  Quarterly,  iii,  pp.  327-370. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  161 

to  the  winning  party.  So  desperately  attached  to  this 
game  are  these  savages,  that  they  will  gamble  away 
every  species  of  clothing  or  property  they  may  possess; 
after  this  their  wives,  and  they  have  been  known  to  stake 
their  own  services,  for  a  certain  number  of  moons,  and 
sometimes  even  to  become  the  slaves  for  life  of  the  more 
fortunate  gamesters.130 

The  stores  have  but  a  very  limited  supply  of  such 
articles  as  emigrants  need;  but  the  present  merchants, 
or  others  that  will  soon  locate  there,  will  find  it  to  their 
interest  to  take  out  such  commodities  as  will  be  required. 
Mr.  Engle,  who  went  out  [87]  with  the  late  emigrants, 
had  erected  a  small  foundry,  with  the  intention  of  casting 
some  old  cannon  that  lay  about  the  fort,  and  other  broken 
utensils,  into  those  most  needed  for  culinary  purposes; 
but  he  had  not  commenced  business  when  I  left.131 

Unimproved  lots  sell  at  from  one  to  five  hundred 
dollars  each,  (the  price  varying  with  their  location,) 
in  the  currency  of  the  country. 

The  ground  back  of  the  town  on  the  bluff,  is  rather 
rocky  for  half  a  mile,  to  the  foot  of  the  hill;  upon  ascend- 
ing the  hill,  the  country  consists  of  fern  openings  and 


130  See  descriptions  of  this  game  in  Original  Journals  0}  the  Lewis  and 
Clark  Expedition,  iv,  p.  37;  and  in  Ross's  Oregon  Settlers,  our  volume  vii, 
pp.  291-293. —  ED. 

131  William  Engle,  of  German  descent,  was  born  near  Harper's  Ferry, 
Virginia,  in  1789,  and  served  as  a  volunteer  in  the  War  of  1812-15.     Having 
lived  for   some   years   in   St.   Clair   County,    Illinois,    he    went  out  with  the 
train  of  1845  for  Oregon,  settling  first  at  Oregon  City.     The  following  year 
he  took  up  donation  land  in  Clackamas  County,  where  he  resided  until  1866, 
being  chosen  member  of  the  legislature  of  1847,  and  for  two  years  serving  as 
county  judge.      Having  sold  his  farm  in  Clackamas,  he  removed  to  Marion 
County,  where  he  died  in  1868.     Engle  was  by  trade  a  carpenter;  his  experi- 
ment as  a  foundryman  does  not  appear  to  have  been  successful. —  ED. 


1 62  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

timber  groves  alternately,  for  a  distance  of  about  thirty- 
five  miles,  to  the  Cascade  mountains.  Upon  this  bluff, 
which  is  covered  with  timber,  there  is  a  small  but  beauti- 
ful lake,  supplied  with  springs,  which  has  an  outlet  by 
a  rivulet  that  passes  through  the  town  into  the  river. 

The  river  below  the  Falls,  for  several  miles,  is  about 
two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and  opposite  the 
town  it  is  very  deep.  The  bank  on  the  east  side,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  is  a  cliff  of  about 
twenty  feet  in  height,  for  the  first  half  mile,  of  a  firm 
basaltic  rock;  from  thence  down  to  the  Clackamis  the 
bank  is  a  sandy  loam. 

Upon  the  west  side  of  the  Willamette,  and  opposite 
to  Oregon  city,  are  laid  out  two  villages;  the  upper  one 
is  called  Linn  city,  in  honor  of  the  late  senator  from 
Missouri,  whose  memory,  for  his  patriotic  services  in  the 
cause  of  the  Oregon  emigrant,  is  held  in  high  esteem 
by  every  true  friend  of  his  country  and  of  humanity. 
When  Dr.  Linn  died,  the  friends  of  Oregon  lost  a  cham- 
pion who  would  not  have  shamelessly  deserted  them 
in  the  hour  of  need.1"  Mr.  Moore,  late  of  Missouri, 
is  the  proprietor; 18S  his  claim  commences  one-fourth 

m  Lewis  F.  Linn  was  born  in  1796  near  Louisville,  where  he  studied  medi- 
cine and  afterwards  volunteered  for  the  War  of  1 8 1 2  - 1 5 .  At  its  close  he  removed 
to  Ste.  Genevieve,  Missouri,  where  he  began  active  practice.  In  1827  he  was 
elected  to  the  state  senate,  and  in  1833  was  appointed  to  the  United  States 
senate  to  fill  out  the  term  of  a  deceased  senator.  Thrice  elected  thereto  by 
the  Missouri  legislature,  he  served  until  his  own  death  in  1843,  being  known 
in  the  senate  as  a  champion  of  Oregon  interests. 

The  town  opposite  Oregon  City  was  known  as  Linn  City.  It  consisted 
in  December,  1844,  of  two  log  buildings  and  many  tents,  wherein  the  emi- 
grants of  1844  made  their  headquarters.  In  1861  all  the  buildings  were  swept 
away  by  a  flood.  It  has  now  no  separate  existence. —  ED. 

1SS  Robert  Moore  was  born  in  Pennsylvania  in  1781,  served  in  the  War  of 
1812-15,  and  in  1822  emigrated  to  Ste.  Genevieve,  Missouri,  whence  he  was 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  "Journal  163 

of  a  mile  below  the  Falls,  extends  above  the  Falls  one 
and  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  and  back  from  the  river 
one  half  of  a  mile.  When  I  left,  there  were  about  fifteen 
buildings  in  this  village,  inhabited  mostly  by  mechanics. 
The  proprietor  had  refused  to  sell  water  power,  which 
was  doubtless  one  of  the  reasons  why  more  emigrants 
did  not  settle  in  it. 

Next,  lower  down,  is  the  claim  of  Mr.  Hugh  Burns,  a 
native  of  Ireland,  but  lately  an  emigrant  from  Missouri; 
he  is  the  proprietor  of  Multinoma  city,  which  is  so 
called  from  the  Indian  name  for  the  Willamette  river, 
and  a  tribe  of  Indians  of  this  name  that  once  inhabited 
that  country."4  This  tribe  is  now  nearly  extinct.  At 
their  burial  places,  near  this,  there  are  hundreds  of  skulls 
yet  lying  over  the  ground.  When  I  left,  [88]  there  were 
but  few  buildings,  and  some  few  mechanics  settled 
in  it.  There  are  two  ferries  established  over  the  river, 
from  the  villages  on  the  west  side,  to  Oregon  city.185 
Upon  the  west  side,  the  bank  of  the  river  is  similar  to 
that  on  the  east,  quite  high,  leaving  but  a  small  semi- 


sent  to  the  state  legislature.  In  1835  he  removed  to  Illinois,  where  in  1839 
he  joined  the  Peoria  party  for  emigration  to  Oregon.  See  preface  to  Farnham's 
Travels,  in  our  volume  xxviii.  Moore  was  one  of  the  seceders  who  went  off 
from  Bent's  Fort  to  Fort  St.  Vrain,  where  he  spent  the  winter  of  1839-40. 
Arrived  in  Oregon  he  purchased  land  of  the  Indians  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Willamette,  naming  his  place  the  "  Robin's  Nest,"  being  visited  there  by  Com- 
modore Wilkes  in  1841.  Moore  served  on  a  committee  of  the  provisional 
government,  and  held  a  commission  as  justice  of  the  peace.  He  died  in  Oregon 
September  i,  1857. —  ED. 

134  Hugh  Burns  was  a  blacksmith  who  came  to  Oregon  in  1842,  in  the 
party  of  Medorem  Crawford.  The  same  year  he  was  made  a  magistrate,  and 
concerned  himself  with  public  affairs  until  his  return  to  Missouri  in  1846. 

For  the  Multnomah  Indians  see  our  volume  vi,  p.  247,  note  53. —  ED. 

188  The  right  to  establish  public  ferries  was  granted  by  the  provisional 
legislature  of  1844  to  Robert  Moore  and  Hugh  Burns. —  ED. 


1 64  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

circular  level  for  the  first  bottom;  and  upon  a  farther 
ascent  of  about  twenty  feet,  there  is  a  larger  plain  at  the 
lower  end  of  this  bluff.  The  bottom  corresponds  well 
with  that  above  the  Clackamis  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
is  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  fir;  the  trees  are  tall 
and  straight. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COUNTRY.  The  journey  to 
Oregon  city  accomplished,  and  an  examination  of  the 
immediate  vicinity  completed,  I  set  about  an  inquiry 
as  to  the  features  of  the  country  —  its  fertility,  its  general 
susceptibility  of  improvement,  and  its  capability  for 
the  support  of  a  large  and  industrious  population.  In 
so  doing,  in  addition  to  what  I  could  see  for  myself,  I 
applied  for  information  to  all  whose  opportunities  had 
been  favorable  for  obtaining  a  knowledge  of  any  par- 
ticular section.  In  this  work  I  was  an  inquirer  after 
facts,  in  order  to  decide  the  question  as  to  the  propriety 
of  taking  my  family  there  for  a  permanent  home;  and 
when  I  noted  these  facts,  no  attention  was  paid  to  the 
classification  and  arrangement  of  the  various  subjects, 
as  is  generally  done  by  those  travelers  and  geographers 
whose  business  is  book-making.  Necessarily,  therefore, 
my  Journal  presents  facts,  just  in  the  order  in  which 
they  came  to  me,  and  as  I  received  them  they  are  placed 
before  the  reader. 

The  landscape  immediately  adjacent  to  the  villages 
of  Linn  city  and  Multinoma  present  several  abrupt 
precipices  of  various  heights,  upon  each  of  which  is  a 
small  level,  of  lesser  and  greater  widths,  clothed  with 
fine  grass  and  studded  over  with  oak  timber,  until  the 
highest  ascent  is  reached,  when  it  spreads  out  into  an 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  165 

extensive  fern  opening.  From  these  cliffs  there  gush 
out  fine  streams  of  pure  spring  water;  and  they  will 
afford  most  beautiful  country  seats  for  the  erection  of 
residences  convenient  to  the  towns,  when  their  improve- 
ment shall  render  such  sites  desirable.  From  these 
heights,  (which  are  easily  ascended,)  there  is  a  fine  view 
of  the  falls  of  the  river  for  several  miles,  and  of  Mount 
Hood.  From  the  heights  to  Quality  Plains,  a  distance 
of  twenty-five  miles,  the  country  presents  rolling  plains, 
with  small  groves  of  oak  and  fir,  and  it  is  well  watered 
by  springs  and  small  rivulets. 

[89]  From  the  description  given  of  the  towns,  the 
reader  may  have  already  inferred,  that  the  Falls  of  the 
Willamette  combine  all  that  is  necessary  to  constitute 
great  water  privileges  for  propelling  machinery;  but 
before  leaving  this  point,  we  will  take  a  more  particular 
view  of  them. 

These  falls  are  occasioned  by  the  descent  of  the  whole 
volume  of  the  river  over  a  ledge  of  basaltic  rock  that 
crosses  the  entire  channel.  The  greatest  fall  at  any 
point  is  twenty-eight  feet,  but  the  whole  descent  here 
is  about  forty  feet.  The  water  is  so  divided  in  the 
channels  at  the  Falls,  and  the  islands  are  so  situated, 
that  nearly  all  of  the  water  may  be  rendered  available, 
at  a  very  small  expense,  when  it  shall  be  needed.  Nature 
rarely  at  any  one  point  concentrates  so  many  advantages 
for  the  erection  and  support  of  a  great  commercial  and 
manufacturing  city,  as  are  to  be  found  here.  There  is 
an  abundance  of  water  to  propel  the  machinery,  stone 
and  timber  convenient  to  erect  the  necessary  buildings, 
an  extensive  country  of  the  best  farming  lands  in  the 
world  to  support  the  towns  by  their  trade,  and  a  fine 


1 66  Early  Western  Travels  [¥01.30 

navigable  river  to  bring  the  raw  material  to  the  manu- 
factories, and  when  manufactured  to  carry  the  surplus 
to  the  Pacific,  whence  it  can  easily  be  taken  to  the  best 
markets  the  world  affords.  At  this  place,  the  business 
of  the  upper  Willamette  will  concentrate,  for  many  years 
at  least.  Tide  water  reaches  to  the  mouth  of  the  Clacka- 
mis,  which  is  within  two  miles  of  the  Falls.  Here  there 
is  a  considerable  ripple  in  the  river,  which  can  easily 
be  removed  by  confining  the  Clackamis  to  its  original 
bed  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the  island.  As  it  is,  there 
are  four  feet  of  water  over  the  bar,  and  not  so  rapid  as  to 
prevent  the  ascent  of  steamboats  to  the  Falls.  Vessels 
of  two  hundred  and  fifty  tons  burthen  have  ascended 
within  two  miles  of  the  rapids;  but,  from  the  crooked- 
ness of  the  stream  and  the  difficulty  in  tacking  so  fre- 
quently, they  generally  receive  and  discharge  their  cargoes 
at  Portland,  twelve  miles  below.1" 

Traveling  up  the  river,  five  miles  from  the  Falls, 
brings  us  to  Rock  Island.  Here  is  said  to  be  a  serious 
obstruction  to  the  navigation  of  the  river.  The  difficulty 
consists  in  there  being  several  peaks  of  rocks  so  elevated, 
as  to  be  near  the  surface  of  the  water  in  a  low  stage; 
and  as  the  channels  between  them  are  very  narrow,  and 


138  The  site  of  Portland  was  unoccupied  until  November,  1843,  when  William 
Overton,  from  Tennessee,  and  Asa  L.  Lovejoy  staked  off  claims  of  three  hun- 
dred and  twenty  acres  each.  In  1844  Overton  sold  out  to  F.  W.  Pettygrove 
of  Maine  for  $50,  and  the  first  log  cabin  was  built.  In  1845  the  place  was 
named  and  a  town  platted;  the  growth  was  slow,  however,  and  by  1849  there 
were  only  about  a  hundred  inhabitants.  Two  years  later  the  town  was  incor- 
porated, at  that  time  claiming  a  population  of  a  thousand.  After  that  the 
growth  became  more  rapid.  In  1873  Portland  suffered  a  disastrous  confla- 
gration. The  city's  success  is  due  to  its  position  at  the  head  of  tidewater 
navigation  for  the  Columbia  and  Willamette  valleys,  and  as  being  the  terminus 
of  eastern  and  southern  trunk  railways. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  167 

the  water  quite  rapid,  boats  are  liable  to  run  on  to  them. 
But  the  rock  can  be  removed  at  an  inconsiderable  expense. 
It  is  fifteen  miles  above  the  Falls  to  the  [90]  first  gravel 
bar,  at  which  place,  in  low  water,  there  is  but  three  feet 
in  the  channel.137 

In  traveling  up  the  river  about  fifty  miles,  I  found, 
in  addition  to  the  obstructions  named,  four  other  gravel 
bars,  over  some  of  which  there  were  only  thirty  inches  of 
water.  In  going  the  next  seventy-five  miles,  I  approached 
the  river  several  times,  and  found  it  to  have  a  deep  channel 
and  smooth  current.  Persons  who  had  navigated  the 
river  considerably  further  up,  in  their  traffic  with  the 
Indians,  informed  me  that  it  continued  equally  favour- 
able for  navigation.  From  what  I  saw  and  learned  of 
intelligent  persons,  I  think  the  smaller  class  of  steam- 
boats could  for  most  part  of  the  year  ascend  two  hundred 
miles  above  the  Falls. 

From  the  Columbia  to  Upper  California,  is  a  moun- 
tainous belt,  known  as  the  Coast  range.188  Spurs  of  this 
range  approach  nearly  to  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette. 
Between  these  spurs  and  the  river,  there  is  but  a  small 
portion  of  the  soil  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  The 
higher  range  to  the  west  of  the  Falls  affords  a  scope  of 
fifty  miles,  that  with  the  exception  of  a  few  openings, 
and  Quality  Plains,  is  tolerably  broken,  generally  well 

157  The  Willamette  is  navigable  in  high  water  for  small  steamers  as  far  as 
Eugene,  a  hundred  and  thirty-eight  miles  above  Portland.     The  first  steamers 
on  the  upper  Willamette  were  the  "Hoosier"  and  "  Yamhill,"  built  in  1851. 
Since  railways  have  followed  both  banks  of  the  stream,  river  navigation  has 
been  of  minor  importance. —  ED. 

158  The  mountains  of  the  Coast  range  extend  at  the  highest  from  four  thou- 
sand to  five  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  with  lower  levels  half  as  great.    Several 
passes  run  through  from  the  Pacific,  notably  that  afforded  by  the  Yaquina  and 
Mary's  rivers,  through  which  runs  the  Oregon  Central  Railway. —  ED. 


1 68  Early  Western  Travels  [¥01.30 

timbered,  finely  watered,  with  many  excellent  situations 
for  farms;  but  not  so  well  calculated,  as  some  other 
parts,  for  dense  settlements. 

Quality  Plains  are  distant  twenty-five  miles  west  from 
Oregon  city;  they  are  about  twenty-five  miles  in  length, 
are  alternately  rolling  prairie  and  timber,  surrounded  by 
heavy  growths  of  firs,  many  of  which  rise  to  the  height  of 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  These  plains  are  all  claimed, 
settled,  and  mostly  improved.139  They  are  well  watered 
by  many  small  streams  that  constitute  the  two  forks  of 
Quality  river,  which  unite  near  the  south-east  part  of  the 
plains,  and  runs  an  easterly  course,  through  narrow 
bottoms,  well  supplied  with  timber  for  more  than  twenty 
miles,  where  it  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Willamette, 
two  miles  above  Oregon  city.  The  principal  part  of  the 
water  that  flows  in  Quality  river  descends  from  the  Coast 
Range.  This  stream,  like  most  others  in  that  region, 
has  several  falls  and  rapids,  that  furnish  very  desirable 
sites  for  the  propelling  of  machinery;  but  if  ever  profitable 
for  navigation,  will  have  to  be  improved  by  canals  and 


139  By  this  paragraph,  Palmer  intends  to  describe  Tualatin  River  and 
plains.  The  name  is  derived  from  a  local  Indian  word  said  to  signify  "smooth 
and  slowly-flowing  stream."  The  land  known  to  the  early  settlers  as  Tualatin 
Plains  is  now  embraced  in  Washington  County  —  a  famous  fruit-  and  wheat- 
raising  region.  The  plains  are  encircled  by  hills,  giving  the  appearance  of  a 
large  amphitheatre.  The  earliest  settlers  in  this  region  were  three  independent 
missionaries,  Harvey  Clark,  Alvin  T.  Smith,  and  P.  B.  Littlejohn,  who  crossed 
the  continent  in  1840,  and  the  following  spring  settled  at  Tualatin.  About  the 
same  time,  several  mountain  men,  such  as  Joseph  L.  Meek  and  Robert  Newell, 
made  their  homes  in  the  region.  The  Red  River  settlers  who  had  come  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Puget  Sound  Agricultural  Association  in  1841,  being  dis- 
satisfied with  lands  north  of  the  Columbia,  gradually  drifted  south,  a  number 
settling  at  Dairy  Creek,  in  the  Tualatin  country. 

For  the  Tualatin  River  see  Farnham's  Travels  in  our  volume  xxix,  p.  16, 
note  5. —  ED. 


1 845-1 846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  169 

lockage  around  its  falls;  which  can  easily  be  done,  when 
the  commerce  of  the  country  will  justify  the  expense. 

From  this  stream,  and  between  the  Coast  Range  and 
Willamette,  and  to  the  south,  to  the  Shahalam  valley, 
which  commences  [91]  at  the  low  pass  of  Quality  Plains, 
is  a  tract  of  about  twenty  by  thirty  miles  in  extent,  of 
rolling  fertile  lands,  alternately  fern  openings  and  timber 
groves. 

From  the  Coast  Range  to  the  Willamette  there  is  a 
belt  of  five  or  six  miles  in  width,  which  near  the  river  is 
covered  thinly  with  yellow  pines;  but  nearer  the  mountain 
it  is  better  timbered,  and  well  watered  from  mountain 
rivulets ;  mostly  a  rich  and  loose  soil,  composed  chiefly  of 
yellow  sand,  loam  and  clay.  But  little  of  this  tract  is 
claimed  by  the  emigrants,  as  they  usually  prefer  the 
prairie  country  above. 

The  Shahalam  is  a  small  stream,  which  has  its  origin 
in  the  Coast  Range,  runs  eastwardly  and  empties  into 
the  Willamette,  twenty  miles  above  Oregon  city.  This 
is  skirted  with  good  prairies  of  five  or  six  miles  in  width, 
near  the  mountains;  but  towards  its  mouth  the  valley  is 
covered  with  timber  and  fern.  The  best  portion  is 
claimed.140 

Eleven  miles  further  up,  the  Willamette  receives  the 
waters  of  the  Yam-hill.  At  the  mouth  it  is  about  twenty- 
five  yards  in  width,  quite  deep,  and  will  bear  upon  its 
bosom  crafts  of  large  burthen  for  ten  miles,  to  the  falls. 

140  This  stream  is  usually  known  as  the  Chehalem,  the  significance  of  the 
name  being  unknown.  Among  the  earliest  settlers  in  this  fertile  valley  were 
Ewing  Young  (see  our  volume  xx,  p.  23,  note  2),  and  Sidney  Smith  (for  whom 
see  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  91,  note  41).  Several  mountain  men  also  had  farms 
in  the  region,  as  well  as  Archibald  McKinley,  a  member  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company. —  ED. 


1 70  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

This  stream  has  two  principal  branches;  the  one 
rising  in  the  Coast  Range,  runs  for  twenty  miles  in  a 
south-easterly  direction,  through  a  beautiful  and  fertile 
valley  of  twelve  miles  in  width,  handsomely  covered 
with  groves  of  white  oak,  and  other  timber;  which  is 
intersected  with  numerous  spring  branches,  the  banks 
of  which  are  lined  with  timber,  leaving  in  some  places 
fine  bottom  prairies,  covered  with  a  rich  sward  of  grass. 
Between  this  fork  and  the  Shahalam  is  a  range  of  hills 
averaging  about  two  miles  in  width,  extending  from  a 
part  of  the  Coast  Range,  to  within  three  miles  of  the 
Willamette.  They  are  of  steep  ascent,  some  of  them 
rising  to  five  or  six  hundred  feet  in  height,  well  covered 
with  grass,  and  from  their  sides  issue  numerous  spring 
rivulets,  which  near  their  origin  are  lined  with  fir  trees; 
thence  passing  through  groves  of  white  oak,  alder  and 
willow,  to  the  bottom  lands,  which  in  crossing  some  of 
them  disappear,  and  others  after  joining  together,  con- 
tinue their  courses  until  they  unite  with  the  Shahalam 
and  Yam-hill.  The  grasses  on  these  hills  are  a  species 
of  red  clover,  that  grows  in  the  summer  season  about 
one  foot  high,  and  a  fine  grass,  which  after  the  clover 
disappears,  keep  them  clad  in  green  during  the  winter. 
Thus  they  furnish  a  perpetual  supply  of  food  for  cattle 
the  whole  year.  The  soil  upon  these  hills  is  a  mixture 
of  clay  and  loam,  of  a  reddish  color,  and  in  the  bottoms 
it  is  a  rich  [92]  mixture  of  loam  and  muck.  However, 
there  are  some  of  the  hills  somewhat  sandy,  and  occasion- 
ally interspersed  with  stony  places. 

From  the  source  of  this  branch  of  the  Yam-hill,  (which 
in  the  country  is  called  the  North  Fork,)  passes  the  trace, 
along  which  the  people  on  Clatsop  plains  drive  their 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  171 

cattle  a  distance  of  about  forty  miles,  when  they  reach 
the  coast,  fifteen  miles  south  of  Cape  Lookout. 

The  south  fork  of  Yam-hill  has  its  source  in  the  Coast 
Range;  where  it  emerges  from  the  mountains,  for  the 
first  ten  miles,  its  banks  are  well  supplied  with  large  fir 
trees,  as  are  its  several  tributaries;  its  banks  are  generally 
steep,  bearing  the  appearance  of  having  washed  out  a 
channel  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  depth.  It  runs  an 
eastern  course  for  about  ten  miles,  then  north-east  for 
some  miles,  and  finally  takes  a  northern  direction,  until 
it  connects  with  the  North  fork,  near  the  Falls,  after  hav- 
ing flowed  a  distance  of  about  twenty-five  miles. 

The  valley  watered  by  this  stream  is  about  fifteen 
miles  wide,  after  the  stream  emerges  from  the  heavy 
growth  of  firs  already  noticed ;  for  there  are  firs,  more  or 
less,  its  whole  length.  From  the  water  courses,  upon 
an  average  of  a  little  over  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  the  valley 
is  fine  prairie  land,  soil  light  and  rich,  occasionally  inter- 
spersed with  fine  groves,  and  well  adapted  to  agricultural 
purposes.  It  is  well  covered  with  grass,  as  is  every 
portion  of  the  country  that  has  oaken  groves,  and  the 
lower  bottoms  yield  an  abundant  supply  of  the  Camas, 
a  tuberous  rooted  plant,  shaped  something  like  an  onion, 
which  it  resembles  in  appearance.  It  is  devoured  greedily 
by  hogs,  and  affords  very  good  nutriment.  The  Indians 
make  much  use  of  it  as  an  article  of  food.  Between  these 
streams  and  within  six  miles  of  their  junction,  commences 
the  high  lands  of  the  Coast  Range;  the  first  plateau  is 
about  ten  miles  wide,  and  well  covered  with  grass.  The 
second  plateau,  for  a  few  miles  is  fern  openings,  with  an 
occasional  grove  of  timber;  after  this  westward  to  the 
coast  the  country  is  heavily  timbered  with  firs,  pine, 


172  Early  Western  Travels  [¥01.30 

and  occasionally  cedar,  hemlock,  balsam,  and  nearly 
all  species  of  the  evergreen  timber.  The  streams  last 
described  furnish  good  sites  for  hydraulic  purposes, 
near  the  mountains.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  val- 
ley of  the  Yam-hill  is  not  only  claimed,  but  settled,  and 
finely  improved.141 

Leaving  the  Yam-hill  and  ascending  the  Willamette 
twenty-five  miles,  we  reach  the  mouth  of  the  Rickerall, 
a  stream  [93]  which  has  its  source  in  the  same  range 
as  the  Yam-hill;  for  the  first  ten  miles  it  runs  rapidly 
over  a  pebbly  bed,  and  from  thence  to  the  mouth  has  a 
deep  channel,  worn  in  a  rich  soil,  with  timbered  banks. 
It  flows  in  an  easterly  course  from  the  mountains  eighteen 
miles,  and  unites  with  the  Willamette.  The  valley  through 
which  this  stream  flows  resembles  that  described  as 
watered  by  the  Yam-hill;  perhaps  the  soil  is  a  little 
richer.  It  is  nearly  all  claimed,  and  will  soon  be  well 
settled.  Upon  this  stream  there  is  erected  a  grist  mill, 
and  there  was  a  saw  mill,  but  the  freshets  washed  it  away 
last  spring.142  Five  miles  above  Yam-hill  commence  a 
range  of  hills  that  extend  south  to  the  Rickerall,  similar  to 
those  between  Shahalam  and  Yam-hill.  These  hills  vary 
from  one  to  four  miles  in  width,  leaving  a  bottom  about 
six  miles  wide  to  skirt  the  Willamette,  which  is  of  good 
soil,  well  watered  and  timbered.  Upon  the  slopes  of 

141  Yamhill  is  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  Cheamhill,  a  name  signifying  "  bald 
hills."     Among  the  earliest  settlers  were  Francis  Fletcher  and  Amos  Cook,  of 
the  Peoria  party  of  1839.     Medorem  Crawford  (1842)  settled  near  what  is  now 
Dayton  for  the  first  years  of  his  Oregon  life.     General  Palmer  himself  chose 
this  valley  for  his  future  home,  and  in  1850  founded  therein  the  town  of  Dayton. 
See  preface  to  the  present  volume. —  ED. 

142  Rickerall  (commonly  Rickreall)  is  a  corruption  of  La  Creole,  the  name 
now  usually  applied  to  this  stream,  which  drains  Polk  County  and  though  not 
navigable  has  many  mill  sites  and  waters  a  fertile  region. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  173 

these  hills  are  several  thousands  of  acres  of  white  oak, 
from  six  to  twenty  feet  in  height,  some  of  them  of  large 
diameter  and  all  with  large  and  bushy  tops;  the  ground 
being  covered  with  grass,  at  a  distance  they  look  like 
old  orchards.  The  timber  of  these  trees  is  very  solid, 
and  promises  great  durability.143  The  valley  between 
the  Yam-hill  and  Rickerall  is  called  the  Applegate 
settlement;  there  are  three  brothers  of  the  Applegates, 
they  have  fine  farms,  with  good  herds  of  fat  and  thrifty 
cattle.144  The  Yam-hill  plains  is  called  the  Hemerey 
settlement,  from  a  family  of  this  name  there  settled.145 

143  Known  as  Polk  County  Hills,  forming  a  charming  background  for  the 
western  view  from  Salem. —  ED. 

144  Jesse,  Charles,  and  Lindsey  Applegate  were  natives  of  Kentucky  who 
emigrated  to  Oregon  in  1843,  and  became  leaders  in  its  development.     The 
eldest,  Jesse,  was  a  man  of  marked  peculiarities,  but  accredited  with  much 
wisdom  and  indomitable  perseverance,  and  a  natural  leader  of  men.    His  influ- 
ence was  considerable  in  forming  the  provisional  government.     In  1846  he 
explored  for  a  southern  route  into  Willamette  valley,  and  thence  led  emigrants 
south  of  Klamath  Lake.     About  1849  he  settled  in  the  Umpqua  country,  near 
the  site  whence  he  obtained  his  title  as  "sage  of  Yoncalla."     A  disastrous  busi- 
ness venture  sent  him  for  a  time  to  the  mountains  of  northern  California.     Dur- 
ing the  Rogue  River  and  Modoc  Indian  wars  his  knowledge  of  the  character 
of  the  aborigines  was  valuable,  and  several  times  he  served  as  special  Indian 
agent,  dying  in  Douglas  County  in  1888. 

Charles  Applegate  was  born  in  1806,  removed  to  St.  Louis  about  1820, 
migrated  to  Oregon  in  1843,  and  accompanied  his  brother  Jesse  to  Douglas 
County,  where  he  died  in  1879. 

Lindsey  Applegate  accompanied  General  W.  H.  Ashley  on  his  Arikara 
campaign  of  1823  (see  our  volume  xxiii,  p.  224,  note  177),  wherein  he  was  taken 
ill.  After  returning  to  St.  Louis  he  worked  in  the  Illinois  lead  mines,  and  saw 
service  in  the  Black  Hawk  War  (1832).  After  his  migration  to  Oregon  (1843), 
he  became  only  second  to  his  eldest  brother  in  services  to  the  young  common- 
wealth. He  made  his  home  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  near  Ashland,  in 
Jackson  County,  where  he  was  living  in  1885. —  ED. 

145  This  name  should  be  Hembree,  that  of  a  pioneer  family  from  Tennessee, 
who  came  out  in  1843.     Absalom  J.  Hembree  was  a  member  of  the  legislature 
from  1846  to  1855.      In  the  latter  year  he  raised  a  company  for  the  Yakima 


1 74  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

Upon  the  Rickerall  are  the  Gillams,  Fords  and  Shaws, 
all  doing  well.140  The  Gays  and  Matheneys  are  settled 
upon  the  bottom  of  the  Willamette,  between  Yam-hill 
and  Rickerall.147 

Twelve  miles  above  the  Rickerall,  empties  the  Lucky- 

War,  in  which  he  was  killed.  Many  descendants  of  this  family  live  near  Lafay- 
ette and  other  Yamhill  County  towns. —  ED. 

144  These  were  members  of  the  immigration  of  1844,  of  which  Cornelius 
Gilliam  was  chosen  leader.  He  had  served  in  both  the  Black  Hawk  and 
Seminole  wars,  and  had  been  sheriff  and  member  of  the  legislature  in  Missouri. 
His  command  of  the  emigrant  train  did  not  last  through  the  entire  trip,  the 
party  breaking  into  smaller  companies,  two  of  which  were  commanded  by 
William  Shaw  and  Nathaniel  Ford.  Gilliam  was  colonel  of  the  regiment  raised 
to  avenge  the  Whitman  massacre,  and  was  killed  by  the  accidental  discharge 
of  a  gun. 

William  Shaw  was  born  (1795)  near  Raleigh,  North  Carolina.  When  a 
boy  he  emigrated  to  Tennessee  and  took  part  in  Jackson's  campaign  before 
New  Orleans  (1814-15).  About  1819  he  removed  to  Missouri,  where  he 
married  a  sister  of  Colonel  Gilliam.  He  was  captain  in  the  Cayuse  War  of 
1848,  and  member  of  the  territorial  legislature  from  Marion  County,  ten  miles 
above  Salem,  where  he  made  his  permanent  home. 

Nathaniel  Ford  was  a  native  of  Virginia  (1795),  but  was  reared  in  Ken- 
tucky, and  after  coming  out  to  Oregon  settled  in  Polk  County,  where  he  died  in 
1870. —  ED. 

147  George  Gay  was  an  English  sailor.  Born  in  Gloucestershire  (1810), 
he  served  as  ship's  apprentice  when  eleven  years  of  age.  In  1832  he  reached 
California  on  the  "Kitty,"  and  there  joined  Ewing  Young's  trapping  party 
to  the  mountains  of  northern  California,  returning  without  entering  Oregon. 
In  1835  he  formed  one  of  a  party  of  eight  men  under  the  leadership  of  John 
Turner,  who  coming  overland  to  Oregon  were  attacked  by  the  Rogue  River 
Indians,  all  being  wounded  and  two  killed.  Gay  reached  the  settlements 
after  a  trip  filled  with  great  hardships,  and  thenceforth  made  Oregon  his  home, 
taking  an  Indian  wife  and  settling  high  up  on  the  Willamette,  near  the  southern 
boundary  of  Yamhill  County.  Here  he  built  the  first  brick  house  in  the  terri- 
tory, and  with  unbounded  hospitality  opened  it  to  new  emigrants.  Wilkes 
(1841)  describes  him  as  a  dashing,  gay  "vaquero,"  half -Indian  in  his  character- 
istics, but  very  useful  to  the  new  community.  At  one  time  he  had  considerable 
wealth  in  horses  and  cattle,  but  died  poor  in  1882. 

Daniel  Matheny,  of  the  emigration  of  1843,  was  b°rn  in  Virginia  in  1793. 
Successive  removals  carried  him  to  Kentucky,  Indiana,  and  Illinois,  where  he 
served  in  the  War  of  1812-15,  ano^  *nat  °f  Black  Hawk  (1832).  Having  settled 
near  Gay  in  1844,  he  afterwards  kept  a  public  ferry,  dying  on  his  farm  in  1872. 
Several  of  his  family  accompanied  him  to  Oregon. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  175 

muke  into  the  Willamette;  it  heads  in  the  same  range 
as  the  Yam-hill,  and,  like  it,  has  two  principal  branches, 
of  about  the  same  length,  depth  and  width,  and  passes 
through  an  excellent  valley  of  land,  with  the  same 
diversities  and  excellent  qualities  for  farming  which  are 
attributed  to  the  Yam-hill  valley  —  the  timber  being 
more  of  oak  and  less  of  fir.  Upon  this  stream  several 
claims  are  entered,  and  there  is  a  fine  opening  for  others 
who  may  desire  to  settle  there. 

Mouse  river  joins  the  Willamette  about  thirty-five 
miles  above  the  Lucky-muke.148  It  has  its  origin  in  the 
Coast  range,  has  two  principal  branches,  which  unite 
near  the  mountains,  passes  ten  miles  over  a  pebbly 
bottom,  and  then  becomes  more  sluggish  to  its  mouth. 
This,  like  the  other  streams  described,  [94]  has  timber 
upon  its  borders,  but  less  than  some;  good  country, 
fine  prospects,  and  but  few  claims  made. 

Between  the  Lucky-muke  and  Mouse  river  there  is  a 
range  of  hills,  as  between  other  streams;  but  at  one 
place  a  spur  of  the  Coast  range  approaches  within  ten 
miles  of  the  Willamette;  from  this  issue  many  small 
streams  which  run  down  it,  and  through  the  fine  plains 
to  the  Lucky-muke  upon  the  one  side,  and  into  Mouse 
river  on  the  other.  This  is  a  beautiful  region;  from  the 
bottom  can  be  seen,  at  different  points,  seven  snow- 
covered  peaks  of  the  Cascade  range.149  The  Cascade 
is  within  view  for  a  great  distance,  to  the  north  and 


148  Luckiamute  is  the  modern  spelling  of  this  name  of  Indian  origin,  derived 
from  a  branch  of  the  Kalapuya  tribe  that  formerly  inhabited  this  valley.     In 
1851,  federal  commissioners  made  a  treaty  with  this  tribe  whereby  they  ceded 
their  lands,  and  retired  soon  afterwards  to  the  Grande  Ronde  reservation.     By 
Mouse  River  Palmer  means  the  stream  now  known  as  Mary's  River —  a  name 
given  by  J.  C.  Avery,  the  founder  of  Corvallis,  in  honor  of  his  wife. —  ED. 

149  Mount  Jefferson,  Hayrick  Mountain,  Mount  Washington,  and  the  Three 
Sisters,  with  neighboring  peaks. —  ED. 


1 76  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

south;  which,  together  with  the  beautiful  scenery  in  the 
valley,  renders  it  a  picturesque  place.  Thrifty  groves  of 
fir  and  oak  are  to  be  seen  in  every  direction;  the  earth  is 
carpeted  with  a  covering  of  luxuriant  grass,  and  fertilized 
by  streams  of  clear  running  rivulets,  some  of  which  sink 
down  and  others  pursue  their  course  above  ground  to  the 
river.  Between  the  forks  of  Mouse  river  approaches  a 
part  of  the  Cascade,150  but  it  leaves  a  valley  up  each  branch 
about  one  mile  in  width,  the  soil  of  which  is  rich  and  good 
prairie  for  several  miles  above  the  junction.  The  moun- 
tain sides  are  covered  very  heavily  with  fir  timber.  Thus 
these  beautiful  valleys  offer  great  inducements  to  those 
who  wish  to  have  claims  of  good  land,  with  fine  grounds 
for  pasturage  and  timber  close  at  hand.  There  are  no 
claims  made  as  yet  above  the  forks.  These  streams 
furnish  good  mill  sites  for  each  of  the  first  six  miles, 
and  are  well  filled  with  trout. 

From  the  forks  of  this  stream  starts  a  trail,  (or  half- 
made  road,)  which  leads  to  the  falls  of  the  Alsa,  a  stream 
that  heads  twenty  miles  to  the  south  of  these  forks;  the 
trail  leads  a  westerly  course  for  fifteen  miles  to  the  Falls ; 
from  thence  to  the  coast  it  is  twenty-one  miles.  From 
the  Falls  the  river  runs  in  a  westerly  direction.  An  old 
Indian  told  me  that  there  was  some  excellent  land  in  this 
valley,  and  that  there  would  be  but  little  difficulty  in 
constructing  a  good  road  down  it.  Salmon  and  other 
fish  are  in  great  abundance  in  this  stream,  up  to  the 
Falls.151 

Six  miles  above  Mouse  river  is  the  mouth  of  Long 

uo  Our  author  here  intends  the  Coast  (not  the  Cascade)  range,  of  which 
Mary's  Peak,  between  the  two  forks  of  Mary's  (Mouse)  River  is  the  highest, 
rising  about  five  thousand  feet  above  sea  level. —  ED. 

181  The  Alsea,  in  Lincoln  County,  flows  into  a  bay  of  that  name,  where 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  "Journal  177 

Tom  Bath; 152  this,  like  all  other  streams  that  enter  the 
Willamette  upon  the  western  side,  heads  in  the  coast 
range,  and  after  breaking  its  way  through  the  spurs  to 
the  plains  below,  passes  through  a  valley  of  good  soil. 
It  has  deep  banks,  is  more  sluggish  in  its  movements 
than  those  that  join  it  lower  down,  [95]  is  filled  with 
dirty  water,  has  a  miry  bottom,  shaded  upon  its  margin 
with  timber,  and  in  size  is  something  larger  than  the 
Yam-hill. 

So  far,  I  have  described  the  valley  from  personal 
observation  in  that  direction;  but  I  was  informed  by 
those  who  had  good  opportunities  for  obtaining  correct 
information,  that  it  bore  off  more  easterly,  and  that  it 
was  for  eighty  miles  further  up  as  well  watered,  timbered, 
and  of  as  luxuriant  soil,  as  that  which  I  have  described. 
It  may  be  proper  here  to  remark,  that  the  further  the 
valley  is  ascended  the  oak  timber  becomes  more  abun- 
dant, and  the  fir  in  a  corresponding  ratio  decreases. 

Having  described  the  country  for  more  than  one  hun- 
dred miles  upon  the  western  side  of  the  Willamette,  we 
will  return  to  the  Falls  and  mention  a  few  facts  respect- 
ing the  eastern  bank.  Upon  this  bank,  for  ten  miles  to 
the  south  of  Oregon  city,  continue  fern  openings,  to  a 
small  stream  called  Pole  Alley,153  which  is  skirted  with 
beautiful  prairie  bottoms  of  from  two  to  eight  miles  in 

small  coasting  steamers  enter  and  ascend  the  stream  some  eighteen  or  twenty 
miles.  The  name  is  derived  from  an  Indian  tribe  —  one  of  the  Kalapuya 
stock. —  ED. 

112  In  the  early  days  of  Oregon  settlement  more  frequently  spelled  Long- 
tonguebuff  (properly  Lungtumler),  from  a  branch  of  the  Kalapuya  tribe  that 
inhabited  its  banks.  The  stream  is  now  known  simply  as  Long  Tom  River, 
rising  in  Lane  County  and  flowing  nearly  north  into  Benton  County,  entering 
the  Willamette  not  far  above  Peoria. —  ED. 

143  Palmer  here  refers  to  Molalla  River,  a  stream  of  southwestern  Clacka- 


178  Early  Western  Travels  [¥01.30 

length  and  from  one  to  two  miles  wide;  these,  with  alter- 
nate groves  of  fir,  constitute  the  principal  characteristics 
of  Pole  Alley  valley.  It  is  not  more  than  half  a  mile 
from  the  mouth  of  Pole  Alley,  farther  to  the  south,  where 
Pudding  river  embogues  into  the  Willamette ;  it  is  twenty- 
five  yards  in  width  at  the  mouth.  The  valley  up  this 
river  to  the  Cascade  mountains,  where  it  rises,  is  alter- 
nately fine  prairie  and  timber  lands,  with  occasional  fern 
openings.  Some  of  the  prairies  are  claimed  by  the 
recent  emigrants.  It  is  finely  clothed  in  grass,  and  up 
the  river  some  distance  there  are  valuable  mill  sites; 
the  water  is  clear,  and  well  stocked  with  fish.154  From 
Pudding  river  further  south,  there  are  fern  openings, 
which  are  succeeded  by  grassy  prairies,  which  give  place 
to  fine  groves  of  fir,  but  sparsely  intermingled  with 
cedar. 

Eight  miles  from   Pudding  river  is  a  village  called 
Butes.     It  was  laid  out  by  Messrs.  Abernathy  and  Beers. 


mas  County,  that  took  its  name  from  a  tribe  of  Indians  once  roaming  upon  its 
banks.  Governor  Lane  in  1850  refers  to  this  tribe  as  Mole  Alley;  and  the 
liquid  letters  "m"  and  "p"  being  nearly  interchangeable  in  the  Indian  dialect, 
Palmer  gave  it  the  form  Pole  Alley.  The  Molala  tribe  was  an  offshoot  of  the 
Cayuse,  that  had  its  home  west  of  the  Cascades.  The  early  settlers  testified 
to  their  superior  physique  and  stronger  qualities,  compared  with  the  degraded 
Chinook  by  whom  they  were  surrounded.  In  1851  their  tribal  lands  were 
purchased,  when  their  number  was  reported  at  123.  The  remnant  removed 
to  Douglas  County,  and  in  1888  a  few  calling  themselves  Molala  were  found 
on  the  Grande  Ronde  reservation. —  ED. 

154  The  aboriginal  name  of  this  stream  was  Hanteuc.  Two  differing  accounts 
are  given  of  the  origin  of  the  present  name.  Elijah  White  (Ten  Years  in 
Oregon,  p.  70)  says  a  party  of  Hudson's  Bay  trappers  lost  their  way  upon  this 
stream  and  were  forced  to  kill  their  horses  for  sustenance,  making  pudding  of 
the  blood.  Others  give  the  derivation  as  "  Put  in" —  the  stream  that  puts  in 
just  below  the  early  French  settlement,  thence  degenerated  to  Pudding.  The 
river  rises  in  the  foothills  near  the  centre  of  Marion  County,  and  flows  nearly 
north,  a  sluggish,  crooked  stream  from  eighty  to  a  hundred  feet  in  width. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmers  "Journal  179 

There  were  but  a  few  cabins  in  it  when  I  left.  The  pro- 
prietors had  erected  a  warehouse  to  store  the  wheat 
they  might  purchase  of  the  settlers  back,  who  should 
find  it  convenient  to  sell  their  crops  at  this  point.  At 
this  place  are  some  conical  hills,  called  Butes,  which 
rise  to  a  considerable  height;  the  sides  and  tops  of  them 
are  clothed  with  tall  fir  trees,  which  can  be  seen  from 
the  valley  above  for  sixty  miles.  Immediately  at  this 
village  is  a  fern  opening,  covered  with  an  undergrowth 
of  hazle,  for  three-fourths  of  a  mile  back,  when  it  merges 
into  an  extensive  and  fertile  prairie.185 

[96]  South  of  Butes  three  miles  is  the  village  of  Sham- 
poic.  It  was  laid  out  by  a  mountaineer,  of  the  name  of 
Newell,  formerly  a  clerk  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.156 

1W  The  Butte  was  a  landmark  on  the  upper  Willamette,  a  high  escarpment 
prominent  from  the  river.  Here  was  formerly  a  landing  for  the  settlers  of 
French  Prairie,  whose  farms  lay  south  and  east  of  this  point.  The  town  of 
Butteville  was  laid  out  by  merchants  of  Oregon  City  —  Abernethy  and  Beers 
—  to  facilitate  the  commerce  in  wheat.  F.  X.  Matthieu  took  up  land  here  as 
early  as  1846,  and  in  1850  kept  a  store.  He  still  lives  at  Butteville,  which  in 
1900  had  a  population  of  483. —  ED. 

UJ  For  Champoeg  see  De  Smet's  Oregon  Missions  in  our  volume  xxix, 
p.  179,  note  75.  The  early  meetings  of  the  provisional  government  were  held 
at  this  place,  which  was  the  centre  for  the  old  Canadian-French  inhabitants 
of  the  country. 

Dr.  Robert  Newell  was  born  in  1807  at  Zanesville,  Ohio.  His  fur-trap- 
ping experiences  were  under  the  auspices  of  the  American  Fur  Company  (not 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company),  as  companion  of  Joseph  L.  Meek.  See  F.  T. 
Victor,  River  o]  the  West  (Hartford,  1870).  His  first  settlement  (1840)  after 
the  migration  to  Oregon,  was  at  Tualatin  Plains;  but  before  1842  he  removed 
to  Champoeg,  where  by  his  influence  over  the  settlers  he  became  the  political 
as  well  as  social  leader.  Possibly  also  Newell  laid  out  a  town  at  this  place, 
but  he  was  by  no  means  the  founder  of  the  village.  Newell  represented  Cham- 
poeg in  the  provisional  government  for  several  years,  and  in  1846  was  speaker 
of  the  lower  house  of  the  state  legislature.  After  the  Whitman  massacre  (1847) 
he  was  chosen  one  of  the  commissioners,  with  Palmer,  to  treat  with  the  Indians. 
He  also  raised  a  company  for  the  Indian  war  of  1856.  In  later  life  he  was 
connected  with  railway  projects  and  died  at  Lewiston,  Idaho,  in  1869. — ED. 


i8o  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

It  contains  a  few  old  shabby  buildings,  and  a  warehouse 
owned  by  the  company,  where  they  receive  the  wheat 
of  the  settlers  of  the  country  from  thence  to  the  Cascade 
mountains.  This  is  an  extensive  plain,  extending  from 
Pudding  river  up  the  Willamette  to  the  old  Methodist 
mission  ground,  which  is  distant  thirty  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  Pudding  river.  The  soil  for  this  distance,  and 
for  two  miles  in  width,  is  similar  to  that  described  imme- 
diately at  Butes.  Back  of  this  for  twenty-five  or  thirty 
miles  is  a  very  handsome  country,  mostly  prairie,  and 
fine  timber,  well  watered,  with  occasionally  a  hill  — 
the  whole  covered  with  a  soil  quite  inviting  to  the  agri- 
culturist, with  an  abundance  of  pasturage  for  cattle. 
This  is  called  the  French  settlement,  and  is  one  of  the 
oldest  in  the  valley.  The  Catholics  have  here  a  mission, 
schools,  a  grist  and  saw  mill,  and  several  mechanics; 
they  have  also  several  teachers  among  the  Indians,  and 
it  is  said  that  they  have  done  much  for  the  improvement 
of  these  aborigines.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly  of 
what  are  called  French  Canadians,  and  were  formerly 
engaged  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
but  have  now  quit  it,  made  claims,  and  gone  to  farming. 
They  have  very  pretty  orchards  of  apple  trees,  and  some 
peach  trees.  Their  wives  are  natives  of  the  country. 
Many  of  them  are  raising  families  that,  when  educated, 
will  be  sprightly,  as  they  are  naturally  active  and  hardy, 
and  appear  very  friendly  and  hospitable.  But  few  of 
them  speak  the  English  language  fluently;  they  mostly 
talk  French  and  Chinook  jargon.157  They  cultivate  but 

157  For  the  early  settlement  of  French  Prairie,  see  De  Smet's  Letters  in  our 
volume  xxvii,  p.  386,  note  203;  also  our  volume  vii,  p.  231,  note  83.  For  the 
Chinook  jargon  see  our  volume  vi,  p.  240,  note  40;  also  pp.  264-270  of  the 
present  volume. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  181 

little  land,  but  that  little  is  well  done,  and  the  rich  soil 
well  repays  them  for  the  labor  expended  upon  it.  I 
could  not  satisfactorily  ascertain  the  population  of  the 
settlement,  which  I  much  regretted. 

The  old  Methodist  mission  is  nearly  opposite  to  what 
is  now  called  Matheny's  Ferry.  It  was  reported  to  me 
to  have  been  one  of  the  first  missions  occupied  in  the 
valley,  but  has  been  abandoned  on  account  of  the  over- 
flowing of  the  river.  It  consists  of  only  several  dilapidated 
buildings.158  The  soil  is  gravelly,  inclined  to  barren, 
with  a  grove  of  pines  near  by. 

This  place  for  a  number  of  years  was  under  the  super- 
intendance  of  the  Rev.  Jason  Lee.  It  is  here  that  the 
remains  of  his  wife  are  interred;  a  tombstone  marks  her 
resting  place,  which  informs  the  passer  by  that  she  was 
the  first  white  woman  [97]  that  was  buried  in  Oregon 
Territory, —  together  with  the  pla*ce  of  her  nativity, 
marriage,  &c.159 

The  unfortunate  location  of  the  mission,  and  the 
circumstances  under  which  Mrs.  Lee  died,  no  doubt 
have  had  great  influence  in  creating  that  unfavorable 
impression  of  the  country  in  the  mind  of  Mr.  Lee,  which 
he  has  expressed  in  some  of  his  letters.  The  country 


168  For  the  earliest  site  of  the  Methodist  mission  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  299, 
note  84.  Matheny's  Ferry  is  mentioned  in  note  147,  ante,  p.  174. —  ED. 

159  For  Jason  Lee  see  our  volume  m,  p.  138,  note  13.  His  first  wife  was 
Anna  Maria  Pitman,  who  came  out  from  New  York  in  1837,  the  marriage 
taking  place  soon  after  her  arrival  in  May  of  that  year.  The  following  spring 
Lee  returned  to  the  United  States.  Upon  his  journey  a  messenger  overtook 
him,  announcing  the  death  of  Mrs.  Lee  on  June  26,  1838.  The  first  interment 
was  at  the  old  mission,  as  here  stated.  Later  the  grave  was  removed  to  Salem. 
H.  H.  Bancroft,  History  oj  Oregon,  i,  p.  170,  gives  the  inscription  on  the  tomb- 
stone.—  ED. 


1 8  2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

surrounding  the  mission  is  covered  mostly  with  scrubby 
oak  and  pine  trees. 

From  the  mission  the  road  proceeds  up  the  valley, 
alternately  through  groves  of  oak  and  pine,  fern  plains, 
and  grassy  prairies,  in  which  are  several  farms,  with 
convenient  buildings.  After  pursuing  this  route  about 
ten  miles,  we  come  to  an  improvement  of  several  hun- 
dred acres,  surrounded  with  small  groves  of  oak.  Here 
the  soil  is  quite  gravelly,  and  not  very  rich. 

Nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Rickerall  is  the 
Methodist  Institute,  which  was  located  at  this  place 
when  it  was  ascertained  that  the  Willamette  would  over- 
flow its  bank  at  the  old  mission.  My  opinion  is,  that 
the  location  is  a  good  one,  being  in  a  high  and  healthy 
neighborhood,  and  nearly  central  of  what  will  be  the 
principal  population  of  the  valley  for  long  years  to  come. 

The  course  of  instruction  there  given  is  quite  respectable, 
and  would  compare  well  with  many  of  those  located  in 
the  old  and  populous  settlements  of  the  States.  This 
school  is  unconnected  with  any  mission.  When  the 
missionary  board  concluded  to  abandon  that  field  of 
labor,  the  Institute  was  bought  by  the  Methodists  of 
Oregon;  hence  it  continued  under  its  old  name.  The 
price  of  tuition  is  low,  and  the  means  of  receiving  an 
education  at  this  place  is  within  the  power  of  those  who 
have  but  a  small  amount  to  expend  in  its  attainment.180 

For  the  first  five  miles  from  the  river  towards  the 
Cascade  range,  the  soil  is  gravelly;  it  is  then  a  sandy 
loam  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  is  generally  an  open 
plain.  The  valley  upon  the  east  side  of  the  river  at  this 

160  For  the  origin  of  the  Willamette  Institute  see  De  Smet's  Oregon  Missions 
in  our  volume  xxix,  p.  165,  note  62. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer s  'Journal  183 

place,  is  about  twenty-five  miles  in  width.  It  is  proper, 
however,  to  remark,  that  there  are  occasional  groves  of 
timber  interspersing  the  prairie,  and  in  some  places 
they  reach  within  a  short  distance  of  the  river.  In  this 
last  described  tract,  there  are  several  varieties  of  soil, 
with  prairie,  timber,  upland,  bottom,  and  hill  side;  the 
whole  is  well  watered.  At  the  Institute  there  reside 
about  fifteen  families,  and  near  by  several  claims  are 
taken,  and  improvements  commenced.  The  Methodist 
missionaries  [98]  have  erected  a  saw  and  grist  mill; 
these  mills  were  sold,  as  was  all  the  property  of  the 
missions  in  the  valley,  by  Mr.  Gerry,  who  was  sent  out 
to  close  the  missionary  matters  in  that  region;  they  are 
now  owned  by  resident  citizens,  and  in  successful  opera- 
tion. At  this  place  a  town  is  laid  out.161 

Six  miles  above  the  Institute  commences  a  range  of 
oak  hills,  which  continue  about  twelve  miles  in  a  south- 
eastern direction  along  the  river,  where  they  connect  by 
a  low  pass  with  the  Cascade  Range.  From  this  place, 
at  the  lower  bench  of  the  Cascade,  commences  another 
range  of  hills,  running  south-westwardly,  which  con- 

181  In  1843  the  Missionary  Society  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  church  decided 
that  the  Oregon  mission,  being  no  longer  useful  for  the  conversion  of  Indians, 
should  be  closed,  and  the  charges  organized  into  a  mission  conference  for  whites. 
In  pursuance  of  this  resolve,  Rev.  George  Gary  of  Black  River  Conference, 
New  York,  was  appointed  to  supersede  Jason  Lee  as  superintendent.  Early 
in  June,  1844,  Gary  settled  the  affairs  of  the  mission,  dismissing  the  lay  mem- 
bers, who  immediately  bought  in  the  mills  and  other  property  of  the  mission. 
Gary  remained  in  Oregon  until  1847,  making  his  headquarters  at  Oregon  City. 

The  native  name  of  the  site  at  Salem  —  Chemekata  —  was  interpreted 
by  Rev.  David  Leslie  as  having  the  same  significance  as  the  term  Salem  —  *.  e., 
rest,  or  peace.  The  site  was  chosen  in  1840  for  the  erection  of  mills  on  Mill 
Creek.  The  trustees  of  Oregon  Institute  laid  out  the  town,  which  grew  slowly 
until  in  1851  it  became  the  territorial  capital.  By  the  terms  of  the  state  con- 
stitution the  capital  was  located  by  popular  vote,  which  resulted  in  favor  of 
Salem.  Its  population  in  1900  was  4,258. —  ED. 


184  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

tinue  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Santaam  river,  which  joins  the  Willamette  twenty  miles 
by  land  above  the  Institute.  This  is  a  bold  and  rapid 
stream,  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  width; 
for  a  considerable  portion  of  its  length,  it  has  a  pebbly 
bottom,  and  banks  covered  with  fir  and  white  cedar  trees 
of  the  best  quality.162 

The  Santa  Anna  has  four  principal  branches,  with 
several  small  tributaries,  all  lined  with  timber,  leaving 
a  strip  of  beautiful  prairie  land  between  each,  of  from 
one-half  to  four  miles  in  width.  The  two  northern 
branches  rise  in  Mount  Jefferson,  the  first  running  nearly 
west  from  its  origin  to  where  it  leaves  the  mountain, 
when  it  inclines  to  the  south  for  a  few  miles,  where  it 
receives  another  branch;  from  this  junction  about 
eight  miles,  it  is  joined  by  a  stream  that  rises  in  the 
Cascade  Range,  south  of  Mount  Jefferson.  Ten  miles 
below  this  point,  the  other  principal  branch,  which 
rises  still  further  to  the  south,  unites  with  the  others, 
when  the  river  inclines  to  the  west,  until  it  joins  the 
Willamette.  From  its  origin  in  Mount  Jefferson  to  its 
termination,  is  about  forty  miles;  from  the  Oak  hills 
above  named  is  twenty-five  miles. 


10  The  Santiam  River  takes  its  name  from  the  head  chief  (Sandeam)  of 
the  Kalapuya  Indians,  who  dwelt  upon  its  banks.  April  16,  1851,  the  federal 
commissioners  made  a  treaty  with  the  Santiam  branch  of  the  tribe,  whereby 
the  latter  ceded  to  the  whites  a  large  portion  of  their  lands.  Their  number  at 
this  time  was  a  hundred  and  fifty-five.  Santiam  River  drains  a  considerable 
portion  of  Marion  and  Linn  counties,  its  North  Fork  forming  the  boundary 
between  the  two.  The  road  up  this  fork  leads  to  Minto  Pass;  the  South  Fork 
formed  the  line  for  the  Willamette  and  Cascade  Military  Road.  Palmer's 
use  of  the  term  "  Santa  Anna  "  for  this  stream,  in  the  two  following  paragraphs, 
would  seem  to  indicate  his  ignorance  of  the  Indian  origin  of  the  term,  and  an 
idea  that  it  had  been  named  for  the  Mexican  general  of  that  period. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  185 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  soil  in  this  valley  is  quite 
gravelly,  but  a  great  portion  is  rich,  and  the  prairies  are 
well  clothed  with  luxuriant  grass.  Among  the  plants, 
herbs,  &c.,  common  to  this  part  of  the  country,  is  wild 
flax. 

A  few  claims  have  been  made  along  the  north-east 
side  of  the  Oak  hills,  and  improvements  commenced. 
The  soil  yields  a  good  crop  of  the  agricultural  products 
suited  to  the  climate. 

Above  the  Santa  Anna,  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Willamette,  the  valley  is  about  twenty  miles  in  average 
width  for  ninety  miles,  to  the  three  forks.  In  this  dis- 
tance there  are  many  small  mountain  streams,  crossing 
the  valley  to  the  river,  all  of  which  are  lined  with  timber, 
and  several  of  them  affording  [99]  valuable  water  privi- 
leges for  such  machinery  as  may  be  erected,  when  yankee 
enterprise  shall  have  settled  and  improved  this  desirable 
portion  of  our  great  republic. 

After  leaving  the  Santaam,  a  prairie  commences,  of 
from  four  to  twelve  miles  in  width,  which  continues  up 
the  valley  for  a  day's  travel,  which  I  suppose  to  be  about 
forty  miles.  The  mountains  upon  the  east  side  of  the 
Willamette  are  covered  with  timber  of  quite  large  growth. 
In  this  last  prairie  has  been  found  some  stone  coal,  near 
the  base  of  the  mountain  spurs;  but  as  to  quantity  or 
quality  I  am  uninformed.  The  specimen  tried  by  a 
blacksmith  was  by  him  pronounced  to  be  good. 

The  Willamette  valley,  including  the  first  plateaus 
of  the  Cascade  and  Coast  ranges  of  mountains,  may  be 
said  to  average  a  width  of  about  sixty,  and  a  length  of 
about  two  hundred  miles.  It  is  beautifully  diversified 
with  timber  and  prairie.  Unlike  our  great  prairies 


1 86  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.30 

east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  those  upon  the  waters 
of  the  Pacific  are  quite  small;  instead  of  dull  and  sluggish 
streams,  to  engender  miasma  to  disgust  and  disease  man, 
those  of  this  valley  generally  run  quite  rapidly,  freeing 
the  country  of  such  vegetable  matter  as  may  fall  into 
them,  and  are  capable  of  being  made  subservient  to  the 
will  and  comfort  of  the  human  family  in  propelling 
machinery.  Their  banks  are  generally  lined  with  fine 
groves  of  timber  for  purposes  of  utility,  and  adding  much 
to  please  the  eye. 

The  Willamette  itself,  throughout  its  length,  has 
generally  a  growth  of  fir  and  white  cedar,  averaging 
from  one-fourth  to  three  miles  in  width,  which  are  valu- 
able both  for  agricultural  and  commercial  purposes.  Its 
banks  are  generally  about  twenty  feet  above  the  mid- 
dling stages,  yet  there  are  some  low  ravines,  (in  the  coun- 
try called  slites,)  which  are  filled  with  water  during 
freshets,  and  at  these  points  the  bottoms  are  overflowed ; 
but  not  more  so  than  those  upon  the  rivers  east  of  the 
Mississippi.  It  has  been  already  observed  that  the  soil 
in  these  bottoms  and  in  the  prairies  is  very  rich;  it  is 
a  black  alluvial  deposite  of  muck  and  loam;  in  the 
timbered  portions  it  is  more  inclined  to  be  sandy,  and 
the  higher  ground  is  of  a  reddish  colored  clay  and 
loam. 

The  whole  seems  to  be  very  productive,  especially 
of  wheat,  for  which  it  can  be  safely  said,  that  it  is  not 
excelled  by  any  portion  of  the  continent.  The  yield 
of  this  article  has  frequently  been  fifty  bushels  per  acre, 
and  in  one  case  Dr.  White  harvested  from  ten  acres  an 
average  of  over  fifty-four  [100]  bushels  to  the  acre;  but 
the  most  common  crop  is  from  thirty  to  forty  bushels  per 


1845-1846]  Palmers  Journal  187 

acre,  of  fall  sowing;  and  of  from  twenty  to  twenty-five 
bushels,  from  spring  sowing. 

There  is  one  peculiarity  about  the  wheat,  and  whether 
it  arises  from  the  climate  or  variety,  I  am  unable  to 
determine.  The  straw,  instead  of  being  hollow  as  in  the 
Atlantic  states,  is  filled  with  a  medullary  substance, 
(commonly  called  pith,)  which  gives  it  firmness  and 
strength;  hence  it  is  rarely  that  the  wheat  from  wind 
or  rain  lodges  or  falls  before  harvesting.  The  straw  is 
about  the  height  of  that  grown  in  the  states,  always 
bright,  the  heads  upon  it  are  much  longer,  and  filled 
with  large  grains,  more  rounded  in  their  form,  than  those 
harvested  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Union.  I  have 
seen  around  fields,  where  a  single  grain  has  grown  to 
maturity,  forty-two  stalks,  each  of  which  appeared  to 
have  borne  a  well  filled  head ;  for  the  grains  were  either 
removed  by  birds,  or  some  other  cause.  As  it  was  Novem- 
ber when  I  arrived  in  the  country,  I  saw  wheat  only  in 
its  grassy  state,  except  what  had  escaped  the  late  harvest. 

The  farmers  have  a  white  bald  wheat,  the  white 
bearded,  and  the  red  bearded,  either  of  which  can  be 
sown  in  fall  or  spring,  as  best  suits  their  convenience,  or 
their  necessities  demand.  That  sown  in  September, 
October  or  November,  yields  the  most  abundantly;  but 
if  sown  any  time  before  the  middle  of  May,  it  will  ripen. 
The  time  of  harvesting  is  proportioned  to  the  seed  time. 
That  which  is  early  sown  is  ready  for  the  cradle  or  sickle 
by  the  last  of  June,  or  the  first  of  July,  and  the  latest  about 
the  first  of  September.  In  the  Oregon  valley,  there  are 
but  few  rains  in  the  summer  months,  and  as  the  wheat 
stands  up  very  well,  farmers  are  generally  but  little 
hurried  with  their  harvesting. 


1 88  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

The  emigrants  usually  arrive  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
summer  or  fall,  and  necessarily  first  provide  a  shelter 
for  their  families,  and  then  turn  their  attention  to  putting 
in  a  field  of  wheat.  In  doing  this,  they  frequently  turn 
under  the  sod  with  the  plough  one  day,  the  next  harrow 
the  ground  once,  then  sow  their  seed,  and  after  going 
over  it  again  with  a  harrow,  await  the  harvest,  and  not 
unfrequently  gather  forty  bushels  from  the  acre  thus 
sown.  In  several  instances  the  second  crop  has  been 
garnered  from  the  one  sowing.  When  the  wheat  has 
stood  for  cutting  until  very  ripe,  and  shattered  consider- 
ably in  the  gathering,  the  seed  thus  scattered  over  the 
field  has  been  harrowed  under,  and  yielded  twenty  bush- 
els to  the  acre,  of  [101]  good  merchantable  grain.  I  was 
told  of  an  instance  where  a  third  crop  was  aimed  at  in 
this  way;  it  yielded  but  about  twelve  bushels  to  an  acre, 
and  was  of  a  poor  quality. 

The  rust  and  smut  which  so  often  blast  the  hopes  of 
the  farmer,  in  the  old  states,  are  unknown  in  Oregon, 
and  so  far  there  is  but  very  little  cheat. 

Harvesting  is  generally  done  with  cradles,  and  the 
grain  threshed  out  with  horses,  there  being  no  machines 
for  this  latter  purpose  in  the  territory. 

The  grain  of  the  wheat,  though  much  larger  than  in 
the  states,  has  a  very  thin  husk  or  bran,  and  in  its  manu- 
facture in  that  country  during  the  winter  months  requires 
a  coarser  bolting  cloth  than  in  the  Atlantic  states,  owing 
to  the  dampness  of  the  atmosphere  at  this  season. 

The  farmers  already  raise  a  surplus  of  this  commodity, 
over  and  above  the  consumption  of  the  country:  but 
owing  to  the  scarcity  of  mills  to  manufacture  it,  they 
cannot  at  all  times  have  it  in  readiness  to  supply  vessels 


1845-1846]  Palmers  journal  189 

when  they  visit  the  settlements.  At  the  time  I  left, 
wheat  was  worth  eighty  cents  per  bushel,  and  flour  three 
dollars  and  fifty  cents  per  hundred  pounds.  The  mills 
above  the  Falls  grind  for  a  toll  of  one-eighth,  but  at  the 
Falls  they  will  exchange  for  wheat,  giving  thirty-six 
pounds  of  fine  flour  for  an  American  bushel,  and  forty 
pounds  for  a  royal  bushel.  The  weight  of  a  bushel  of 
wheat,  (according  to  quality,)  is  from  sixty  to  seventy 
pounds. 

Oats  yield  an  abundant  crop,  but  this  grain  is  seldom 
sown,  as  the  stock  is  generally  suffered  to  gather  its 
support  by  grazing  over  the  plains. 

Peas  do  well,  and  are  much  used  in  feeding  hogs,  at 
the  close  of  their  fattening,  when  taken  off  of  their  range 
of  camas  and  other  roots;  and  it  is  remarked  that  this 
vegetable  there  is  free  from  the  bug  or  wevil  that  infests 
it  in  the  western  states. 

Barley  is  very  prolific,  and  of  a  large  and  sound  growth; 
but  there  is  as  yet  little  raised,  as  the  demand  for  it  is 
quite  limited. 

I  saw  no  rye  in  the  country.  Buckwheat  grew  very 
well,  though  not  much  raised. 

For  potatoes  Oregon  is  as  unequalled,  by  the  states, 
as  it  is  for  wheat.  I  doubt  whether  there  is  any  portion 
of  the  globe  superior  to  it  for  the  cultivation  of  this  almost 
Indispensable  vegetable.  I  heard  of  no  sweet  potatoes, 
and  think  there  are  none  in  the  territory. 

Indian  corn  is  raised  to  some  extent  upon  the  lower 
bottoms  [102]  in  the  valleys,  but  it  is  not  considered  a 
good  corn  country.  It  had  yielded  forty  bushels  to  the 
acre;  they  mostly  plant  the  small  eight-rowed  yankee 
corn.  The  summers  are  too  cool  for  corn.  Tobacco 


190  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

has  been  tried;  and  although  it  may  be  raised  to  some 
extent,  it  is  lighter  than  in  Kentucky,  and  more  southern 
latitudes.  The  climate  and  soil  are  admirably  adapted 
to  the  culture  of  flax  and  hemp,  and  to  all  other  vegetables, 
which  grow  with  ordinary  care,  in  any  of  the  northern, 
eastern  and  middle  states. 

During  my  travels  through  the  valley,  I  spent  some 
time  with  Mr.  Joel  Walker,  a  gentleman  who  had 
resided  several  years  in  California,  had  made  several 
trips  from  Oregon  to  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  had 
spent  some  time  in  trapping  and  trading  between  the 
Willamette  valley  and  the  42d  degree  of  north  latitude.168 
From  this  gentleman,  as  well  as  from  several  others,  I 
learned  that  the  trail  near  two  hundred  miles  south  of 
Oregon  city  arrives  at  the  California  mountains,  which 
is  a  ridge  running  from  the  Cascade  to  the  Coast  range 
of  mountains.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  peaks,  this 
ridge  is  susceptible  of  easy  cultivation,  being  partly 
prairie  and  partly  covered  with  timber.  Mr.  Walker 

183  Joel  P.  Walker  was  a  brother  of  Joseph  R.  Walker  (see  note  46,  ante,  p.  70). 
Of  Virginian  birth  he  removed  at  an  early  age  to  Tennessee,  whence  he  went 
out  under  Andrew  Jackson  against  the  Alabama  Indians  (1814),  and  later 
against  the  Florida  Seminole.  Some  time  before  1822,  he  removed  to  Mis- 
souri, where  he  married,  and  engaged  in  the  early  Santa  Fe  trade  with  Stephen 
Cooper  (see  our  volume  xix,  p.  178,  note  16).  Walker  removed  with  his  family 
to  Oregon  in  1840  —  one  of  the  first  families  of  settlers  who  came  independent 
of  the  missionary  movement.  Wilkes  met  him  on  the  Willamette  in  1841, 
when  he  expressed  his  dissatisfaction  with  the  climate  and  the  conditions. 
See  Wilkes's  Exploring  Expedition,  iv,  p.  388.  That  same  year  he  went  over- 
land to  California,  where  he  worked  for  Captain  Sutter,  coming  back  to  Oregon 
some  time  before  Palmer's  visit,  with  a  herd  of  cattle  for  sale.  This  time  he 
remained  in  Oregon  several  years,  being  chosen  justice  of  the  peace  for  Yam- 
hill  County  (about  1845).  In  1848  he  returned  to  California,  where  he  was  a 
member  from  Napa  of  the  constitutional  convention  of  1849.  ^n  ^53  he 
removed  to  Sonoma  County  where  he  spent  the  remainder  of  his  life,  dying 
sometime  after  1878. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  191 

doubts  not  that  a  good  wagon  road  can  be  made  over  this 
ridge;  to  cross  which  requires  but  a  few  hours,  and  brings 
us  into  the  beautiful  country  bounded  on  the  east  and 
west  by  the  Cascade  and  Coast  ranges,  the  California 
mountains  on  the  north,  and  the  Rogue's  River  mountains 
on  the  south. 

This  district  of  country,  which  is  only  about  forty 
miles  wide  from  east  to  west,  is  drained  by  the  Umpquah 
river,  and  its  tributaries,  which  as  in  the  Willamette 
valley,  are  skirted  with  timber;  but  back  from  the  streams 
is  a  prairie  country,  beautifully  alternated  with  groves  of 
timber. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Umpquah,  which  empties  into  the 
Pacific  about  thirty  miles  from  where  it  leaves  this  beauti- 
ful district  of  country,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have 
a  trading  post.1'*  If  we  except  this,  there  is  no  settle- 
ment nor  claim  made  on  this  river  or  its  tributaries. 
Passing  Rogue's  River  mountains,  the  trail  enters  the 
valley  of  the  river  of  that  name.  This  valley  is  quite 
similar  to  that  of  the  Umpquah,  but  perhaps  not  quite 
so  large.195  This  valley  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
Klamet  mountain,  which  is  a  spur  of  the  Cascade  and 
Coast  mountains.  It  is  high  and  somewhat  difficult  to 
pass  over;  but  it  is  believed  a  route  may  be  found  that 
will  admit  of  an  easy  passage  over.  It  is  heavily  tim- 
bered; and  as  in  [103]  the  Coast  range,  the  timber  in 


1M  For  the  Umpqua  River  see  our  volume  vii,  p.  231,  note  82;  the  fort  is 
noted  in  Farnham's  Travels,  our  volume  xxix,  p.  59,  note  79. —  ED. 

145  For  Rogue  River  see  ibid.,  p.  82,  note  104.  The  mountains  lie  directly 
north  of  the  river  valley  in  Coos  and  Curry  counties,  Oregon.  The  first  settlers 
in  this  valley  came  there  in  1851.  See  William  V.  Colvig,  "Indian  Wars  of 
Southern  Oregon,"  in  Oregon  Historical  Quarterly,  iv,  pp.  227-240. —  ED. 


192  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

many  places  has  died,  and  a  thick  growth  of  underbrush 
sprung  up. 

South  of  the  Klamet  mountains  spreads  out  the  beauti- 
ful valley  watered  by  the  Klamet  river.  This  valley, 
although  not  so  well  known  as  that  of  the  Willamette, 
is  supposed  to  be  more  extensive,  and  equally  susceptible 
of  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  It  is  esteemed  one  of  the 
best  portions  of  Oregon.168  The  land  is  mostly  prairie, 
but  is  well  diversified  with  timber,  and  bountifully  sup- 
plied with  spring  branches.  The  Indians  are  more 
numerous  here  than  in  the  valley  further  north,  and  as 
in  the  Umpquah  and  Rogue's  river  valleys,  more  hostile. 
There  has  been  very  little  trading  with  them;  but  they 
not  unfrequently  attack  persons  driving  cattle  through 
from  California  to  the  settlements  in  Oregon;  and 
although  none  of  the  drivers  have  been  killed  for  several 
years,  they  have  lost  numbers  of  their  cattle.  Before 
these  valleys  can  be  safely  settled,  posts  must  be  estab- 
lished to  protect  the  inhabitants  from  the  depredations 
of  these  merciless  savages.167 

A  settlement  of  about  a  dozen  families  has  been  made 


1M  By  the  "Klamet"  Mountains,  Palmer  refers  to  the  chain  lying  north  of 
Klamath  River  valley,  now  usually  spoken  of  as  the  Siskiyou  range.  Klamath 
River  is  described  in  Farnham's  Travels,  our  volume  xxix,  p.  46,  note  56. 
The  trail  into  this  region  followed  nearly  the  route  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railway. —  ED. 

187  The  Indians  of  Southern  Oregon  had  always  been  disposed  to  molest 
white  wayfarers.  Witness  the  troubles  of  Jedidiah  H.  Smith  in  1828,  the  massacre 
of  the  Turner  family  in  1835,  and  the  attack  on  a  cattle  train  in  1837.  After 
1848,  the  passage  of  gold-seekers  to  and  from  California  intensified  the  diffi- 
culty, whereupon  a  long  series  of  contests  ensued,  resulting  in  open  wars,  in 
which  Palmer  bore  an  important  part.  The  war  of  1853  was  terminated  by 
a  treaty  (September  10)  secured  by  Generals  Lane  and  Palmer;  that  of  1855 
was  more  serious,  being  participated  in  by  regular  troops  as  well  as  Oregon 
militia.  For  Palmer's  relation  to  these  wars  see  preface  to  this  volume. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  193 

• 
upon   Clatsop  plains.    This  is  a  strip  of  open  land, 

about  a  mile  in  width,  extending  from  the  south  end  of 
Point  Adams,  or  Clatsop  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river,  about  twenty  miles  along  the  margin 
of  the  ocean,  in  the  direction  of  Cape  Lookout.168  It 
appears  to  have  been  formed  by  the  washing  of  the  waters. 
Ridges  resembling  the  waves  of  the  ocean  extend  from 
north  to  south  throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  plains. 
These  ridges  are  from  twelve  to  twenty-five  feet  high, 
and  in  some  places  not  more  than  fifty  feet,  but  at  other 
points  as  much  as  three  hundred  yards  asunder.  That 
along  the  coast  is  the  highest  and  least  fertile,  as  it  seems 
to  be  of  more  recent  formation.  The  soil  is  composed 
of  vegetable  matter  and  sand,  and  produces  grass  more 
abundantly  than  the  valleys  above ;  the  spray  and  damp- 
ness of  the  ocean  keeping  the  grass  green  all  the  year. 
The  land  is  not  so  good  for  fall  wheat  as  in  the  upper 
country,  but  the  settlers  raise  twenty-five  bushels  of 

us  p-or  point  Adams  see  our  volume  vi,  p.  233,  note  37.  The  term  Clatsop 
was  given  for  an  Indian  tribe  —  ibid.,  p.  239,  note  39.  Clatsop  Plains  were 
first  visited  in  the  winter  of  1805-06  by  members  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedi- 
tion, who  erected  a  cairn  for  the  making  of  salt,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
present  resort  known  as  Seaside.  The  settlement  of  this  region  was  begun  in 
1840  by  members  of  the  Methodist  mission,  reinforced  by  Solomon  H.  Smith 
and  Calvin  Tibbitts  of  the  Wyeth  party,  who  had  married  daughters  of  the 
Clatsop  chief  Cobaway  (Lewis  and  Clark  spelled  it  Comowool).  J.  W.  Perry 
took  up  a  farm  in  1842,  and  several  members  of  the  immigration  of  1843  settled 
on  the  Clatsop  Plains.  See  "Pioneer  Women  of  Clatsop  County,"  in  Oregon 
Pioneer  Association  Transactions,  1897,  pp.  77-84.  These  plains  are  com- 
posed of  a  sandy  loam  well  adapted  for  fruit  and  vegetables,  but  especially 
suited  to  grazing,  so  that  dairying  is  a  leading  industry  of  this  region. 

Cape  Lookout,  in  Tillamook  County,  is  a  conspicuous  headland.  It  was 
first  sighted  by  Heceta  in  1775,  and  named  by  Captain  Meares  in  1789.  See 
our  volume  xxviii,  p.  32,  note  9;  also  our  volume  vii,  p.  112,  note  17.  The 
point,  however,  which  Palmer  designates  as  Cape  Lookout,  is  in  reality  that 
called  by  the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition  "Clark's  Point  of  View,"  but  now 
known  as  Tillamook  Head. —  ED. 


j  94  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

spring  wheat  to  the  acre.  I  think  it  better  for  root  crops 
than  the  valleys  above.  In  the  rear  of  the  plains,  or 
about  a  mile  from  the  shore,  is  a  body  of  land  heavily 
timbered  with  hemlock  and  spruce,  which  is  tall  and 
straight,  and  splits  freely.  Near  the  timber  a  marsh  of 
some  two  hundred  yards  in  width  extends  nearly  the 
entire  length  of  the  plains.  This  marsh  is  covered  with 
the  low  kind  of  cranberries. 

A  stream  some  ten  or  twelve  yards  in  width  169  enters 
the  plains  [104]  at  the  south  end,  runs  ten  or  twelve 
miles  north,  when  it  turns  to  the  west,  and  after  passing 
through  two  of  the  ridges,  takes  a  southerly  direction  and 
enters  the  bay  that  sets  up  between  the  Plains  and  Cape 
Lookout,  not  more  than  ten  rods  from  its  entrance  into 
the  Plains.  Here  a  dam  is  built  across  the  stream,  and 
the  claimant  is  erecting  a  flouring  mill. 

On  these  plains  the  claims  are  taken  half  a  mile  in 
width  on  the  coast,  and  extending  back  two  miles;  each 
claimant  therefore  having  a  fair  proportion  of  prairie 
and  timber  land,  besides  a  glorious  cranberry  patch. 

Some  fifteen  miles  south-east  of  Cape  Lookout,  stands 
a  peak  of  the  Coast  range,  called  Saddle  Mountain;  and 
the  cape  is  a  spur  or  ridge  extending  from  this  mountain 
some  two  or  three  miles  out  into  the  ocean.170  Around 
the  head  of  the  bay,  immediately  north  of  Cape  Look- 
out, is  a  body  of  several  thousand  acres  of  timber  land. 

10  The  Necanican  River,  called  by  Lewis  and  Clark  the  Clatsop,  has  a 
roundabout  course,  as  indicated  by  Palmer,  and  drains  the  southern  end  of 
Clatsop  Plains. —  ED. 

170  Saddle  Mountain,  the  highest  point  in  Clatsop  County,  shows  three 
peaks  as  viewed  from  the  Columbia,  and  takes  this  name  from  its  form.  The 
aboriginal  name  was  Swollalachost.  Lewis  and  Clark  found  it  covered  with 
snow  during  most  of  the  winter  season  of  1805-06. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  'Journal  195 

The  soil  is  good,  but  most  of  it  so  heavily  timbered  that 
it^would  require  much  labour  to  prepare  it  for  farming. 
But  as  the  streams  from  the  mountain  afford  an  abundance 
of  water  power,  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to  manufac- 
ture the  timber  into  lumber,  for  which  there  is  a  good 
market  for  shipping,  and  thus  make  the  clearing  of  the 
land  for  cultivation  a  profitable  business. 

Along  the  coast  from  Cape  Lookout  to  the  42d  parallel 
there  is  much  land  that  can  be  cultivated;  and  even  the 
mountains,  when  cleared  of  the  heavy  bodies  of  timber 
with  which  they  are  clothed,  will  be  good  farming  land. 
There  is  so  much  pitch  in  the  timber  that  it  burns  very 
freely;  sometimes  a  green  standing  tree  set  on  fire  will 
all  be  consumed;  so  that  it  is  altogether  a  mistaken 
idea  that  the  timber  lands  of  the  country  can  never  be 
cultivated.  I  am  fully  of  the  opinion  that  two-thirds  of 
the  country  between  the  Willamette  valley  and  the  coast, 
and  extending  from  the  Columbia  river  to  the  forty-sec- 
ond parallel,  which  includes  the  Coast  range  of  moun- 
tains, can  be  successfully  cultivated.  This  region 
abounds  in  valuable  cedar,  hemlock  and  fir  timber,  is 
well  watered,  possesses  a  fertile  soil,  and  being  on  the 
coast,  it  will  always  have  the  advantage  of  a  good 
market;  for  the  statements  that  soundings  cannot  be 
had  along  the  coast,  between  Puget  Sound  and  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco,  are  altogether  erroneous.  No  place 
along  the  range  would  be  more  than  thirty  miles  from 
market;  and  the  difficulty  of  constructing  roads  over 
and  through  this  range  would  be  trifling,  compared 
with  that  of  constructing  similar  works  over  the  Alle- 
ghanies. 

[105]  The  country  about  Cape  Lookout  is  inhabited 


196  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

by  a  tribe  of  Indians  called  the  Kilamooks.  They  are 
a  lazy  and  filthy  set  of  beings,  who  live  chiefly  on  fish 
and  berries,  of  which  there  is  here  a  great  abundance. 
They  have  a  tradition  among  them  that  a  long  time  ago 
the  Great  Spirit  became  angry  with  them,  set  the  moun- 
tain on  fire,  destroyed  their  towns,  turned  their  tiye 
(chief)  and  tilicums  (people)  into  stone,  and  cast  them 
in  the  ocean  outside  of  Cape  Lookout;  that  the  Great 
Spirit  becoming  appeased,  removed  the  fire  to  Saddle 
Mountain,  and  subsequently  to  the  Sawhle  Illahe  (high 
mountain,)  or  Mount  Regnier,  as  it  is  called  by  the  whites, 
on  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia  river.171 

In  the  ocean  about  a  mile  west  of  Cape  Lookout,  is  to 
be  seen  at  high  water  a  solitary  rock,  which  they  call 
Kilamook's  Head,  after  the  chief  of  the  tribe.  Around 
this  rock  for  half  a  mile  in  every  direction  may  be  seen 
at  low  water  divers  other  rocks,  which  are  called  the 
tilicums,  (people)  of  the  tribe.  At  low  water  is  to  be 
seen  a  cavity  passing  quite  through  Kilamook's  Head, 
giving  the  rock  the  appearance  of  a  solid  stone  arch.172 

In  support  of  this  tradition,  the  appearance  of  the 
promontory  of  Cape  Lookout  indicates  that  it  may  be 
the  remains  of  an  extinct  volcano;  and  on  Saddle  Moun- 
tain there  is  an  ancient  crater,  several  hundred  feet 
deep;  while  Mount  Regnier  is  still  a  volcano.  Those 
who  have  visited  the  rocky  cliffs  of  Cape  Lookout,  report 
that  there  is  some  singular  carving  upon  the  ledges, 

171  For  the  Tillamook  (Kilamook)  Indians  see  our  volume  vi,  p.  258,  note 
67.      Mount  Rainier  is  noted  in  Farnham's  Travels,  our  volume  xxix,  p.  33, 
note  30. —  ED. 

172  On  Tillamook  Rock,  a  large  boulder  in  the  ocean,  opposite  Tillamook 
Head,  a  lighthouse  was  erected  in  1879-81.     It  was  a  work  of  much  difficulty, 
the  engineers  narrowly  escaping  being  washed  into  the  sea. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  197 

resembling  more  the  hieroglyphics  of  the  Chinese,  than 
any  thing  they  have  seen  elsewhere. 

These  Indians  have  another  tradition,  that  five  white 
men,  or,  as  they  call  them,  pale  faces,  came  ashore  on 
this  point  of  rock,  and  buried  something  in  the  cliffs, 
which  have  since  fallen  down  and  buried  the  article 
deep  in  the  rocks;  that  these  pale  faces  took  off  the 
Indian  women,  and  raised  a  nation  of  people,  who  still 
inhabit  the  region  to  the  south.  And  I  have  met  with 
travelers  who  say  they  have  seen  a  race  of  people  in  that 
region,  whose  appearance  would  seem  to  indicate  that 
they  may  have  some  European  blood  in  their  veins. 
A  reasonable  conjecture  is,  that  a  vessel  may  have  been 
cast  away  upon  the  coast,  and  that  these  five  men  escaped 
to  Cape  Lookout.  Another  circumstance  renders  it 
probable  that  such  might  have  been  the  case.  Fre- 
quently, after  a  long  and  heavy  south  westerly  storm, 
large  cakes  of  bees-wax,  from  two  to  four  inches  thick 
and  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  [106] 
are  found  along  the  beach,  near  the  south  end  of  Clatsop 
Plains.  The  cakes  when  found  are  covered  with  a  kind 
of  sea-moss,  and  small  shells  adhere  to  them,  indicating 
that  they  have  been  a  long  time  under  water.173 

In  or  about  Saddle  Mountain  rises  a  stream  called 
Skipenoin's  river,  which,  though  extremely  crooked,  runs 

178  Palmer  probably  obtained  his  information  of  these  Indian  traditions 
from  Celiast  (or  Helen)  Smith,  daughter  of  the  Clatsop  chief,  whose  son  Silas 
B.  Smith  has  furnished  much  material  for  recent  historical  works.  This  story 
of  the  wreck  of  the  ship  carrying  beeswax,  differs  slightly  from  the  version 
given  in  Lyman,  History  0}  Oregon,  i,  pp.  167-169.  Lyman  conjectures  that 
it  may  have  been  the  Spanish  ship  "San  Jose,"  carrying  stores  (1769)  to  San 
Diego,  California,  which  was  never  after  heard  from.  Some  of  the  cakes  of 
w  ax  found  bore  the  letters  I.  H.  S. —  ED. 

mos*    have    Wen 


198  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

nearly  north,  and  empties  into  the  western  side  of  Young's 
bay,  which,  it  will  be  remembered,  is  a  large  body  of 
water  extending  south  from  the  Columbia  river  between 
Point  Adams  and  Astoria.  Between  this  river  and  Clat- 
sop  plains  is  a  strip  of  thick  spruce  and  hemlock, 
with  several  low  marshes.  The  landing  for  Clatsop 
plains  is  about  two  miles  up  the  river;  which  it  is  rather 
difficult  to  follow,  as  there  are  many  slues  putting  in 
from  either  side,  of  equal  width  with  the  main  stream. 
From  the  bay  a  low  marshy  bottom  extends  up  to  the 
landing,  covered  with  rushes  and  sea-grass.  This  bottom 
is  overflowed  opposite  the  landing  at  high  water. 
Between  the  landing  and  Clatsop  plains  is  a  lake  one 
or  two  miles  in  length,  which  has  its  outlet  into  the  bay. 
Its  banks  are  high,  and  covered  with  spruce.  Near  this 
is  a  stream,  from  the  mouth  of  which  it  is  about  two  or 
three  miles  along  the  bay  to  the  creek  upon  which  Lewis 
and  Clark  wintered;  and  thence  about  three  and  a  half 
miles  to  the  head  of  the  bay  where  Young's  river  enters.174 
Young's  river  is  a  stream  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  in  width,  and  is  navigable  for  steamboats  and 
small  sloops  to  the  forks,  six  or  seven  miles  up.  About 
seven  miles  further  up  are  the  "Falls,"  where  the  water 
pitches  over  a  ledge  of  rocks,  making  a  fall  of  about  sixty 

174  For  Young's  Bay  see  our  volume  vi,  p.  259,  note  69.  Skipanon  is  a 
small  creek,  a  branch  of  which  Clark  crossed  on  a  log  during  his  trip  from 
Fort  Clatsop  to  the  seacoast.  The  site  of  Fort  Clatsop  was  definitely  deter- 
mined by  Olin  D.  Wheeler  in  1899  (see  his  Trail  oj  Lewis  and  Clark,  ii,  pp. 
195,  198),  and  the  Oregon  Historical  Society  in  1900  (see  Proceedings  for  1900). 
The  plan  of  the  fort  was  discovered  by  the  present  Editor  among  the  Clark 
papers  in  1904.  See  Original  Journals  oj  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition, 
iii,  pp.  268,  298.  The  river  upon  which  the  fort  was  located  was  known  by 
the  native  name  of  Netul,  now  called  Lewis  and  Clark  River,  a  tributary  of 
Young's  Bay  west  of  Young's  River. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  199 

feet.  Around  the  falls  the  mountains  are  covered  with 
heavy  timber.  Near  the  forks  the  river  receives  from 
the  east  a  small  stream,  upon  which  a  machine  for  mak- 
ing shingles  has  been  erected;  and  as  the  timber  in  the 
vicinity  is  good  for  shingles,  which  can  be  readily  sold 
for  the  Sandwich  Islands  market,  the  owners  expect  to 
do  a  profitable  business.  Young's  river  rises  in  or  near 
Saddle  mountain.175  From  the  mouth  of  this  river  it  is 
about  eight  or  ten  miles,  around  the  point  which  forms 
on  the  east  Young's  Bay,  to  Astoria,  or  Fort  George, 
as  it  is  called  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  This 
stands  on  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia  river,  about 
sixteen  miles  from  its  mouth.176 

The  Columbia  river  and  its  location  have  been  so  often 
described,  that  it  is  hardly  necessary  for  me  to  go  into 
details.  But  as  this  work  is  designed  to  be  afforded  so 
low  as  to  place  [107]  it  within  the  reach  of  every  one, 
and  may  fall  into  the  hands  of  many  whose  means  will 
not  enable  them  to  procure  expensive  works  on  Oregon, 
it  may  not  be  amiss  to  say  something  about  that  noble 
stream,  which  discharges  its  waters  into  the  ocean  between 
cape  Disappointment  on  the  north,  and  point  Adams  or 
Clatsop  point  on  the  south,  and  in  latitude  about  46°  15' 
north. 

At  its  mouth  the  Columbia  is  narrowed  to  about  six 


17S  Young's  River  was  called  by  Lewis  and  Clark  Kilhawanackkle,  and 
is  the  largest  stream  in  Clatsop  County.  The  falls  are  at  the  head  of  tide- 
water and  flow  over  a  black  basalt  cliff.  The  eastern  tributary  is  the  Klaska- 
nine  River.  See  Original  Journals  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition,  iv, 
p.  !37.— ED. 

178  For  the  history  of  this  place  see  Franchere's  Narrative  in  our  volume 
vi,  and  Ross's  Oregon  Settlers  in  our  volume  vii.  The  later  history  of  Fort 
George  is  sketched  in  Farnham's  Travels,  our  volume  xxix,  p.  57,  note  74. —  ED. 


2OO  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

miles  in  width  by  cape  Disappointment  extending  in  a 
south  west  direction  far  out  into  the  stream,  the  cape 
being  washed  on  the  west  side  by  the  ocean.  Cape 
Disappointment  and  Chinook  point,  a  few  miles  above 
it,  form  Baker's  bay,  which  affords  good  anchorage  for 
vessels  as  soon  as  they  round  the  point.177  This  cape 
presents  a  rocky  shore,  is  quite  high,  and  covered 
with  timber.  An  American  had  taken  it  as  his  land 
claim,  according  to  the  laws  of  the  territory;  but  during 
the  last  winter,  he  sold  his  right  to  Mr.  Ogden,  then  one 
of  the  principal  factors,  but  now  Governor  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  in  Oregon,  for  one  thousand  dollars. 
A  fortification  on  this  cape  would  command  the  entrance 
of  the  river  by  the  northern  channel,  which  is  immediately 
around  the  point,  and  as  it  is  said,  not  more  than  half  a 
mile  in  width.178 

Point  Adams,  the  southern  cape  of  the  Columbia, 
is  a  little  above  cape  Disappointment.  It  is  low  and 
sandy,  and  continues  a  sand  ridge  four  miles  to  Clatsop 
plains.  This  point,  and  the  high  ground  at  Astoria, 
as  before  stated,  form  Young's  bay,  near  which  the 
ridge  is  covered  with  timber.  Near  point  Adams  is  the 
southern  channel  or  entrance  into  the  Columbia,  which 
is  thought  to  be  preferable  to  the  northern  channel;  and 
I  think  either  of  them  much  better  than  heretofore 

177  For  Cape  Disappointment  and  Baker's  Bay  see  our  volume  vi,  pp.  233, 
234,  notes  36,  38.  Chinook  Point  was  the  site  of  a  populous  village  of  that 
tribe  just  west  of  Point  Ellice,  which  is  the  southernmost  promontory  between 
Gray's  and  Baker's  Bay.  Lewis  and  Clark  found  the  village  deserted,  but 
in  early  Astorian  times  it  was  populated  —  see  our  volumes  vi,  p.  240;  vii, 
p.  87.—  ED. 

ITS  ]7or  peter  Skeen  Ogden  see  our  vol  ume  xri,  p.  314,  note  99.  The  United 
States  government  has  recently  chosen  this  site  for  a  fort  now  (1906)  in  process 
of  erection,  to  be  known  as  Fort  Columbia. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  201 

represented.  In  each  there  is  a  sufficiency  of  water 
to  float  any  sized  vessel.  With  the  advantages  of  light 
houses,  buoys,  and  skillful  pilots,  which  the  increasing 
commerce  of  the  country  must  soon  secure,  the  harbor 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  would  compare  well  with 
those  on  the  Atlantic  coast ;  and  I  may  say  that  it  would 
be  superior  to  many  of  them. 

As  we  ascend,  Astoria  occupies  probably  the  first 
suitable  site  for  a  town.  It  stands  upon  a  gradual  slope, 
which  extends  from  the  bank  of  the  river  up  to  the  moun- 
tain. The  timber  was  once  taken  off  of  some  forty  or 
fifty  acres  here,  which,  except  about  twenty  acres,  has 
since  been  suffered  to  grow  up  again,  and  it  is  now  a 
thicket  of  spruce  and  briars.  Five  or  six  old  dilapi- 
dated buildings,  which  are  occupied  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  who  have  a  small  stock  of  goods  for  trading 
[108]  with  the  natives,  and  a  few  old  looking  lodges  upon 
the  bank  of  the  river,  filled  with  greasy,  filthy  Indians, 
constitute  Astoria.179 

The  person  in  charge  of  this  establishment,  whose 
name  is  Birney,  seems  to  be  a  distant,  haughty,  sulky 
fellow,  whose  demeanor  and  looks  belie  the  character 
generally  given  to  a  mountaineer  or  backwoodsman.180 
As  evidence  of  his  real  character,  I  will  state  one  circum- 
stance as  it  was  related  to  me  by  persons  residing  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  place.  During  the  summer  or  fall,  while 


179  Astoria,  as  an  American  town,  began  in  1846  with  the  settlement  of 
James  Welch,  who  defied  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  officers  to  drive  him 
from  the  site.    The  post-office  was  begun  in  1847,  and  a  custom  house  two 
years  later.     In  1856  a  town  government  was  established,  while  twenty  years 
later  Astoria  was  incorporated  as  a  city.     Its  population  is  now  about  ten 
thousand,  with  good  prospects  for  a  large  growth  in  the  near  future. —  ED. 

180  For  James  Birnie  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  361,  note  130. —  ED. 


2O2  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

the  British  war  vessel  Modeste  was  lying  at  Astoria,  one 
of  the  sailors  fell  overboard  and  was  drowned.  Search 
was  made,  but  his  body  could  not  be  found.  Several 
weeks  afterwards  the  body  of  a  man  was  found  upon 
the  shore,  a  short  distance  above  Astoria.  Information 
was  immediately  communicated  to  Birney,  who  promised 
to  give  the  body  a  decent  burial.  About  two  weeks  after 
this,  some  Indians  travelling  along  the  shore,  attracted 
to  the  place  by  a  disagreeable  scent  and  the  number  of 
buzzards  collected  together,  discovered  the  body  of  a 
man  much  mangled,  and  in  a  state  of  putrefaction. 
They  informed  two  white  men,  Trask,  and  Duncan,181 
who  immediately  made  enquiry  as  to  whether  the  body 
found  on  the  beach  previously  had  been  buried,  and 
received  for  answer  from  Birney,  that  it  was  no  country- 
man of  his,  but  it  was  likely  one  of  the  late  emigrants  from 
the  States  that  had  been  drowned  at  the  Cascade  Falls. 
Trask  and  Duncan  proceeded  to  bury  the  body,  and 
found  it  to  be  in  the  garb  of  a  British  sailor  or  marine. 
This,  to  say  the  least,  was  carrying  national  prejudice 
a  little  too  far. 

Near  Astoria,  and  along  the  river,  several  claims 
have  been  taken,  and  commencements  made  at  improv- 
ing. Anchorage  may  be  had  near  the  shore.  Three 
miles  above  Astoria  is  Tongue  point,182  a  narrow  rocky 
ridge  some  three  hundred  feet  high,  putting  out  about 


181  Elbridge  Trask  came  to  Oregon  in  1842,  apparently  a  sailor  on  an 
American  vessel.  He  lived  for  a  time  at  Clatsop  Plains.  Probably  his  com- 
panion was  Captain  Alexander  Duncan,  commander  of  the  "Dryad,"  and  a 
friend  of  James  Birnie. —  ED. 

10  For  Tongue  Point,  which  takes  its  name  from  its  peculiar  shape,  see 
our  volume  vi,  p.  242,  note  44.  Gray's  Bay  is  noted  in  volume  vii,  p.  116, 
note  ao. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  203 

a  mile  into  the  river;  but  at  the  neck  it  is  low  and  not 
more  than  two  hundred  yards  across.  The  two  channels 
of  the  river  unite  below  this  point.  Opposite  is  Gray's 
bay,  a  large,  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  of  sufficient  depth 
to  float  ships.  Above  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  river 
is  Swan  bay,  a  large  sheet  of  water,  though  shallow, 
presenting  numerous  bars  at  low  tides.  A  deep  channel 
has  been  cut  through  this  bay,  which  affords  an  entrance 
into  a  stream  that  comes  in  from  the  south,  about  two 
hundred  yards  wide,  and  from  appearance  is  navigable 
some  distance  up.188  In  this  vicinity  the  whole  country 
is  covered  with  heavy  timber.  In  [109]  the  indentation 
in  the  mountain  range  south  of  the  river,  there  seems  to 
be  large  scopes  of  good  rich  land,  which  would  produce 
well  if  cleared  of  timber.  From  Tongue  point  across 
Gray's  bay  to  Catalamet  point  is  about  sixteen  miles. 
Small  craft  are  frequently  compelled  to  run  the  southern 
channel,  inside  of  a  cluster  of  islands  called  Catalamet 
Islands,  which  passes  "old  Catalamet  town,"  as  it  is 
called,  a  point  where  once  stood  an  Indian  village.  Four 
or  five  claims  have  been  taken  here,  but  none  of  them 
have  been  improved.  A  short  distance  from  the  river 
are  several  beautiful  prairies,  surrounded  with  heavy 
timber.  A  small  stream  enters  here,  which  affords 
water  power  a  short  distance  up.184 

18$  By  Swan  Bay,  Palmer  intends  that  stretch  of  the  river  lying  between 
Tongue  and  Cathlamet  points,  which  is  more  usually  known  as  Cathlamet 
Bay.  The  river  is  the  John  Day  (aboriginal  name,  Kekemarke),  which  should 
not  be  confused  with  the  larger  stream  of  this  name  in  eastern  Oregon.  See 
our  volume  v,  p.  181,  note  104. —  ED. 

184  For  Cathlamet  Point  see  our  volume  vii,  p.  116,  note  20.  The  old  village 
of  the  Cathlamet  Indians  which  was  located  near  the  present  town  of  Knappa, 
was  visited  by  Lewis  and  Clark  on  their  outward  journey  (1805);  see  Original 


204  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

A  few  miles  above  old  Catalamet  town,  near  the  top 
of  the  bluff,  about  four  hundred  yards  from  the  Columbia, 
stands  Wilson  &  Hunt's  saw  mill,  which  is  driven  by  a 
small  stream  coming  down  from  the  mountain;  after 
leaving  the  wheel  the  stream  falls  about  sixty  feet,  strik- 
ing tide  water  below.  A  sluice  or  platform  is  so  con- 
structed as  to  convey  the  lumber  from  the  mill  to  the  level 
below,  where  it  is  loaded  into  boats  and  run  out  to  the 
river,  where  it  can  be  loaded  into  vessels. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  this  place,  the  bark  Toulon  was 
lying  at  anchor,  about  fifty  yards  from  the  shore,  taking 
in  a  cargo  of  lumber  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  to  which 
she  expected  to  sail  in  a  few  days.  This  was  early  in 
January,  but  from  some  cause  she  did  not  leave  the 
mouth  of  the  river  until  the  last  of  February.185 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  mill  there  is  some  better  timber 
than  I  have  seen  in  any  other  part  of  the  country.  The 
largest  trees  are  about  seven  feet  in  diameter,  and  nearly 
three  hundred  feet  high;  the  usual  size,  however,  is  from 
eighteen  inches  to  three  feet  diameter,  and  about  two 
hundred  feet  high. 

The  country  slopes  up  from  the  mill  gradually,  for 
several  miles,  and  is  susceptible  of  easy  cultivation;  the 


Journals  oj  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition,  iii,  p.  252.    The  stream  was 
that  now  known  as  Tillasqua  Creek. —  ED. 

181  This  mill  was  erected  by  Henry  Hunt,  one  of  the  emigrants  of  1843,  for 
the  purpose  of  preparing  lumber  for  the  Pacific  market,  especially  that  of 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  See  letter  of  Tallmadge  B.  Wood  in  Oregon  Historical 
Quarterly,  iii,  pp.  394-398.  Later,  salmon  barrels  were  made  at  this  place, 
the  men  employed  at  the  task  being  the  only  settlers  between  Astoria  and 
Linnton  on  the  Willamette;  and  sometimes  they  were  summoned  to  serve 
as  a  sheriff's  posse.  See  Oregon  Pioneer  Association  Transactions,  1890, 
p.  73.  Hunt's  Mill  Point  is  marked  on  the  federal  land  office  map  of  1897 
as  being  opposite  the  lower  end  of  Puget  Island. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  205 

soil  is  somewhat  sandy,  and  has  the  appearance  of  being 
good. 

In  leaving  this  place,  we  struck  directly  across  the 
river,  which  is  here  over  two  miles  wide.  Upon  the 
north  side,  almost  opposite  to  the  mill,  is  a  claim  held 
by  Birney,  of  Astoria,  who  has  made  an  effort  at  improve- 
ment by  cutting  timber  and  raising  the  logs  of  a  cabin. 
At  this  place  a  rocky  bluff  commences  and  continues  up 
the  river  for  ten  miles,  over  which  a  great  many  beauti- 
ful waterfalls  leap  into  the  Columbia.  There  is  one 
sheet  of  water  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide,  which  plunges 
over  a  precipitous  cliff  two  hundred  feet  into  the  river, 
[no]  striking  the  water  about  thirty  feet  from  the  base 
of  the  rock,  where  there  is  sufficient  depth  to  float  vessels 
of  large  size. 

At  the  distance  of  eight  or  ten  miles  above  the  mill, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  there  is  an  indentation  in 
the  mountain  to  the  south,  and  a  bend  in  the  river  to  the 
north,  which  forms  a  body  of  bottom  land  several  miles 
in  width,  and  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  long,  the  greater 
part  of  which,  except  a  strip  varying  from  a  quarter  to 
half  a  mile  in  width,  next  to  the  river,  is  flooded  during 
high  tides.  This  strip  is  covered  with  white  oak  and 
cottonwood  timber.  The  remainder  of  the  bottom  is 
prairie,  with  occasional  dry  ridges  running  through  it, 
and  the  whole  of  it  covered  with  grass.  By  throwing 
up  levees,  as  is  done  upon  the  Atlantic  coast,  most  of 
these  fine  lands  might  be  cultivated. 

At  the  extreme  southern  point  of  the  elbow,  there 
comes  in  a  stream,  the  size  of  which  was  not  ascertained, 
but  from  appearances  it  is  of  sufficient  size  to  propel 
a  considerable  amount  of  machinery.  There  are  several 


20 6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

islands  in  the  river  opposite  the  lower  point  of  this  bottom, 
and  at  the  northern  angle  the  Columbia  is  not  more  than 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide.  This  is  called  Oak  point, 
and  holds  out  good  inducements  for  a  settlement.  There 
is  an  Indian  village  half  a  mile  below  the  point;  and 
opposite,  upon  the  northern  side  of  the  river,  a  good  mill- 
stream,  the  falls  being  near  the  river,  and  the  mountain 
covered  with  timber.186  Immediately  above  the  point, 
the  river  spreads  out  to  one  and  a  half  or  two  miles  in 
width,  and  having  several  islands,  portions  of  which  are 
covered  with  cotton  wood,  oak  and  ash  timber,  the 
remainder  being  nearly  all  prairie.  From  Oak  point 
up  to  Vancouver,  the  scenery  very  much  resembles  that 
along  the  Hudson  river  through  the  Catskill  Mountains, 
but  much  more  grand,  as  the  Cascade  range  of  moun- 
tains, and  many  snowcapped  peaks,  are  in  view. 

Some  portions  of  the  way  the  shore  is  high  rugged  cliffs 
of  rocks,  at  others  indentations  in  the  mountain  leave 
bottoms,  from  a  quarter  to  three  miles  wide,  which  are 
mostly  covered  with  timber.  From  the  lower  mouth 
of  the  Willamette  to  Fort  Vancouver,  the  shores  are 
lined  with  cottonwood  timber,  and  upon  the  south  side, 
as  far  up  as  the  mouth  of  Sandy,  or  Quicksand  river, 
which  comes  in  at  the  western  base  of  the  Cascade  range. 
But  few  claims  have  as  yet  been  taken  along  the  Columbia, 
but  the  fishing  and  lumbering  advantages  which  this  part 


188  At  Oak  Point  was  made  the  first  American  settlement  in  Oregon;  see 
our  volume  xxi,  pp.  261,  287,  notes  74,  94.  The  stream  on  the  south  side  is 
the  Clatskanie  River,  in  Columbia  County,  Oregon,  flowing  southwest  and 
entering  the  river  opposite  Wallace  Island.  For  the  origin  of  this  word  and 
its  relation  to  the  Klaskanine  River  see  H.  S.  Lyman,  "Indian  Names,"  in 
Oregon  Historical  Quarterly,  i,  p.  322.  The  mill  stream  of  the  northern  bank 
is  Nequally  Creek  in  Cowlitz  County,  Washington. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  207 

of  the  country  possesses  over  many  others,  holds  out  great 
inducements  to  settlers. 

[in]  From  Fort  Vancouver,  for  several  miles  down 
upon  the  north  side,  the  country  is  sufficiently  level  to 
make  good  farming  land;  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, or  members  of  the  company,  have  extensive  farms, 
with  large  herds  of  cattle.  Fort  Vancouver  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  sites  for  a  town  upon  the  Columbia.  It 
is  about  ninety  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  upon  the 
north  side  of  the  river.  Large  vessels  can  come  up  this 
far.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  here  about  twenty-five 
feet  high.  Much  of  the  bottom  land  about  the  fort  is 
inclined  to  be  gravelly,  but  produces  well.187 

A  party  consisting  of  nine  persons,  in  two  row-boats, 
started  from  Oregon  city  on  the  24th  of  December,  for 
Fort  Vancouver,  and  arrived  there  in  the  afternoon  of 
the  25th.  In  our  party  was  Colonel  M'Clure,  formerly 
of  Indiana,  and  who  had  been  a  member  of  the  Oregon 
legislature  for  two  years.188  As  soon  as  we  landed,  he 
made  his  way  to  the  fort,  which  is  about  four  hundred 
yards  from  the  shore,  with  the  view  of  obtaining  quarters 
for  the  party.  He  soon  returned  and  conducted  us  to 
our  lodgings,  which  were  in  an  old  cooper's  shop,  or 
rather  shed,  near  the  river. 

Before  starting  we  had  prepared  ourselves  with  pro- 
visions, and  a  few  cooking  utensils.  We  set  to  work, 


187  For  a  brief  historical  sketch  of  Fort  Vancouver  see  our  volume  xxi, 
p.  297,  note  82. —  ED. 

188  Colonel  John  McClure  came  to  Oregon  from  New  Orleans  some  time 
before  1842.     In  1843  he  settled  at  Astoria,  where  he  had  a  cabin  on  the  site 
of  the  first  Astoria  mill.     He  married  a  native  woman,  and  his  portion  of  the 
early  town  was  known  as  McClure's  Astoria.     He  is  described  as  having 
been  an  old  man  in  1845,  and  he  had  died  before  1867. —  ED. 


208  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

and  although  the  wind  and  rain  made  it  unpleasant, 
we  soon  had  a  comfortable  meal  in  readiness,  and  we 
made  good  use  of  the  time  until  it  was  devoured.  This 
was  holyday  with  the  servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  and  such  ranting  and  frolicking  has  perhaps 
seldom  been  seen  among  the  sons  of  men.  Some  were 
engaged  in  gambling,  some  singing,  some  running  horses, 
many  promenading  on  the  river  shore,  and  others  on 
the  large  green  prairie  above  the  fort.  H.  B.  Majesty's 
ship  of  war  Modeste  was  lying  at  anchor  about  fifty 
yards  from  the  shore.189  The  sailors  also  seemed  to  be 
enjoying  the  holydays  —  many  of  them  were  on  shore 
promenading,  and  casting  sheep's  eyes  at  the  fair  native 
damsels  as  they  strolled  from  wigwam  to  hut,  and  from 
hut  to  wigwam,  intent  upon  seeking  for  themselves  the 
greatest  amount  of  enjoyment.  At  night  a  party  was 
given  on  board  the  ship,  and  judging  from  the  noise 
kept  up  until  ten  at  night,  they  were  a  jolly  set  of  fellows. 
About  this  time  a  boat  came  ashore  from  the  ship,  with 
a  few  land  lubbers  most  gloriously  drunk.  One  of  them 
fell  out  of  the  boat,  and  his  comrades  were  barely  able 
to  pull  him  ashore.  They  passed  our  shop,  cursing  their 
stars  for  this  ill  luck. 
We  wrapped  ourselves  in  our  blankets,  and  lay  down 


189  The  British  ship  of  war  "Modeste,"  Captain  Baillie  commanding, 
first  visited  Fort  Vancouver  in  July,  1844.  Governor  McLoughlin  was  offered 
no  protection  at  this  time;  but  the  situation  having  grown  more  intense,  the 
vessel  was  ordered  to  the  Columbia  in  October,  1845,  and  remained  to  protect 
British  interests  until  April,  1847.  The  officers  sought  to  conciliate  the  Ameri- 
can pioneers,  but  there  was  on  the  whole  little  intercourse  between  the  two 
nationalities.  Theatrical  entertainments  were  planned  and  given  in  the  winter 
of  1845-46,  and  a  ball  arranged  by  these  officers  was  the  occasion  of  an  ex- 
pression of  a  majority  sentiment  for  the  American  cause.  See  Oregon  Pioneer 
Association  Transactions,  1874,  pp.  26,  27. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  209 

upon  [112]  a  pile  of  staves.  The  rain  was  falling  gently, 
and  we  were  soon  asleep.  In  the  after  part  of  the  night, 
several  of  us  were  aroused  by  a  strange  noise  among  the 
staves.  In  the  darkness  we  discovered  some  objects  near 
us,  which  we  supposed  to  be  hogs.  We  hissed  and 
hallooed  at  them,  to  scare  them  away.  They  commenced 
grunting,  and  waddled  off,  and  all  was  again  quiet,  and 
remained  so  until  daylight;  but  when  we  arose  in  the 
morning,  we  found  ourselves  minus  one  wagon  sheet, 
which  we  had  brought  along  for  a  sail,  our  tin  kettle, 
eighteen  or  twenty  pounds  of  meat,  a  butcher  knife  and 
scabbard,  one  fur  cap,  and  several  other  articles,  all  of 
which  had  been  stolen  by  the  Indians,  who  had  so  exactly 
imitated  the  manoeuvres  of  a  gang  of  hogs,  as  entirely  to 
deceive  us. 

After  breakfast  we  visited  the  fort,  where  we  had  an 
introduction  to  Dr.  McLaughlin,  the  Governor  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.  He  appears  to  be  much  of  a 
gentleman,  and  invited  us  to  remain  during  the  day; 
but  as  we  were  upon  an  excursion  down  the  river,  we  only 
remained  to  make  a  few  purchases,  which  being  accom- 
plished, we  left  the  place. 

As  before  stated,  the  fort  stands  upon  the  north  bank 
of  the  Columbia,  six  miles  above  the  upper  mouth  of  the 
Willamette,  and  about  four  hundred  yards  from  the  shore. 
The  principal  buildings  are  included  within  a  stockade 
of  logs,  set  up  endwise  close  together,  and  about  twelve 
feet  high;  the  lower  ends  of  the  timbers  being  sunk  about 
four  feet  in  the  ground.  A  notch  is  cut  out  of  each  log 
near  the  top  and  bottom,  into  which  a  girth  is  fitted,  and 
mortised  into  a  large  log  at  each  end,  the  whole  being 
trenailed  to  this  girth.  I  judge  the  area  contains  about 


21  o  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

four  acres.  The  first  thing  that  strikes  a  person  forcibly 
upon  entering  one  of  the  principal  gates  upon  the  south, 
is  two  large  cannons,  planted  one  upon  either  side  of 
the  walk  leading  to  the  Governor's  house,  immediately 
in  front  of  the  entrance.  Many  of  the  buildings  are 
large  and  commodious,  and  fitted  up  for  an  extensive 
business,  others  are  old  fashioned  looking  concerns,  and 
much  dilapidated.  East  of  the  fort  and  along  the  river 
bank  there  is  a  grassy  prairie,  extending  up  for  about 
three  miles;  it  has  been  cultivated,  but  an  unusually 
high  freshet  in  the  river  washed  the  fence  away,  and  it 
has  since  remained  without  cultivation.  The  soil  is 
gravelly.  North  of  this,  and  extending  down  nearly 
even  with  the  fort  there  is  a  handsome  farm,  under 
good  cultivation.  North  of  the  fort  there  is  a  beautiful 
orchard,  and  an  extensive  garden,  with  several  large 
blocks  of  buildings.  Below  the  [113]  fort,  and  extend- 
ing from  the  river  for  half  a  mile  north,  is  the  village; 
the  inhabitants  of  which  are  a  mongrel  race,  consisting 
of  English,  French,  Canadians,  Indians  of  different 
nations,  and  half  breeds,  all  in  the  employ  of  the 
company.  The  buildings  are  as  various  in  form,  as 
are  the  characteristics  of  their  inmates. 

As  yet  there  are  but  few  Americans  settled  upon  the 
north  side  of  the  Columbia.  There  seems  to  have  been 
an  effort  upon  the  part  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
to  impress  the  American  people  with  an  idea  that  the 
entire  country  north  of  the  river  was  unfit  for  cultivation. 
Not  only  was  this  statement  made  to  emigrants,  but  it 
was  heralded  forth  to  the  whole  world;  and  as  much  of 
the  country  along  the  Columbia  corroborated  this  state- 
ment, no  effort  was  made  to  disprove  it.  Americans 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  211 

visiting  that  country  being  so  well  pleased  with  the  atten- 
tions paid  them  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  took  for 
granted  their  statements,  without  examining  for  them- 
selves, and  have  asserted  it  at  home,  in  accordance  with 
British  interests,  and  this  I  fear  has  had  its  influence  in 
the  settlement  of  this  question.  For  any  one  acquainted 
with  the  character  of  the  claims  of  the  respective  govern- 
ments can  but  admit,  that  greater  privileges  have  been 
granted  to  Great  Britain  than  that  government  had  any 
right  to  expect,  or  than  the  justice  of  our  claim  would 
allow.  Undoubtedly,  the  largest  part  of  good  agricul- 
tural country  is  south  of  49°  north  latitude,  but  there  is 
a  great  deal  of  excellent  land  north  of  that  line.  But 
little  of  it  has  been  explored  by  Americans,  and  we  have 
taken  only  the  statements  of  British  subjects,  and  upon 
their  authority,  the  question  between  the  two  govern- 
ments was  settled.  But  as  we  have  proven  by  actual 
examination  the  incorrectness  of  their  statements  in 
relation  to  the  country  between  the  Columbia  and  the 
49th  degree  north  latitude,  we  may  reasonably  infer  that 
they  are  also  incorrect  in  relation  to  the  remainder  of  the 
country  north.  That  the  general  features  of  the  country 
north  of  the  Columbia  River  are  rough  and  mountainous, 
is  admitted ;  and  the  same  may  be  said  in  relation  to  the 
country  south  of  it;  but  that  it  is  barren  and  sterile,  and 
unfit  for  cultivation,  is  denied. 

The  country  upon  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia 
abounds  with  beautiful  valleys  of  rich  soil,  of  prairie 
and  timbered  lands,  well  watered,  and  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  all  the  grains  raised  in  the  northern,  middle, 
and  western  States,  with  superior  advantages  for  graz- 
ing; never  failing  resources  for  timber  [114]  and  fish; 


212  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

and  its  proximity  to  one  of  the  best  harbors  in  the  world, 
renders  it  one  of  the  most  desirable  and  important  sections 
upon  the  Pacific  coast.  Frazer's  river,  with  its  numerous 
tributaries,  will  afford  a  settlement  which  will  compare 
well  with  England  itself. 

Vancouver's  Island,  an  excellent  body  of  land,  is 
equal  to  England  in  point  of  size,  fertility  of  soil,  climate, 
and  everything  that  would  constitute  great  national 
wealth.  And  besides  these,  there  are  undoubtedly 
extensive  valleys  north  of  Frazer's  river,  which  will  com- 
pare well  with  it;  but  we  know  nothing  positively  upon 
this  subject.190 

The  excellent  harbors  of  Puget's  sound,  with  its  many 
advantages,  and  the  delightful  country  about  it,  are 
sufficient  to  induce  capitalists  to  look  that  way.  This 
will  probably  be  the  principal  port  upon  the  coast. 
Here  will  doubtless  be  our  navy  yard  and  shipping  stores. 
It  is  thought  by  many  that  an  easy  communication  can 
be  had  between  the  Sound  and  the  middle  region,  by 
striking  the  Columbia  above  fort  Walla  walla.  If  this 
can  be  effected,  it  will  lessen  the  distance  materially 
from  the  settlement  upon  the  upper  Columbia  to  a  sea- 
port town;  and  as  the  navigation  of  that  river,  between 
the  Cascade  and  Lewis's  fork  is  attended  with  great 
danger  and  difficulty,  a  route  through  to  the  sound  in 
this  quarter  would  be  very  desirable.191  That  it  can  be 
accomplished  there  is  but  little  doubt.  A  stream  empty- 
ing into  the  ocean  between  the  Columbia  and  the  sound, 
called  Shahales,  affords  a  very  good  harbor,  which  is 

190  For  Fraser  River  and  Vancouver  Island  see  Farnham's  Travels,  our  vol- 
ume xxix,  pp.  43,  75,  notes  52,  91. —  ED. 

111  For  Puget's  Sound  see  ibid.,  p.  90,  note  108.  The  first  road  over  the  Cas- 
cades was  built  in  1853,  from  Olympia  to  Walla  Walla. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  213 

called  Gray's  harbor.192  Up  this  stream  there  is  a  country 
suitable  for  an  extensive  settlement.  Like  most  other 
valleys  in  the  country  it  is  diversified  with  prairie  and 
timbered  land,  and  well  watered.  No  claims  as  yet 
have  been  taken  in  this  valley. 

There  are  two  peaks  upon  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
which  remain  covered  with  snow  the  whole  year  round. 
One  is  called  Mount  St.  Helen,  and  stands  north  east  of 
Fort  Vancouver,  and  distant  perhaps  forty-five  or  fifty 
miles. 

The  other  is  Mount  Regnier,  and  stands  some  thirty- 
five  miles  from  St.  Helen,  in  a  northerly  direction.  This 
is  said  to  be  a  volcano. 

The  distance  from  Fort  Vancouver  to  Puget's  sound, 
in  a  direct  line,  cannot  exceed  ninety  miles;  but  the 
high  mountains  between  render  the  route  somewhat 
difficult,  and  the  distance  necessarily  traveled  would 
be  considerably  increased. 

About  forty  miles  below  fort  Vancouver  there  comes  in 
a  [115]  stream  called  Cowlitz;  twenty-five  miles  up  this 
stream  there  is  a  French  settlement  of  about  twenty 
families.  Like  those  in  the  settlement  upon  the  east 
side  of  the  Willamette  river,  they  have  served  out  their 
term  of  years  in  the  H.  B.  Company,  have  taken  claims, 
and  become  an  industrious  and  thriving  population.1"3 


The  people  in  Oregon  have  adopted  a  code  of  laws  for 
their  government,  until  such  time  as  the  United  States 
shall  extend  jurisdiction  over  them. 

1M  For  Gray's  Harbor  see  our  volume  vi,  p.  256,  note  64;  the  Chehalfs 
River  is  described  in  Farnham's  Travels,  our  volume  xxix,  p.  81,  note  103. —  ED. 

1W  For  the  Cowlitz  settlement  see  our  volume  xxvii,  p.  386,  note  203. —  ED  . 


214  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

The  powers  of  the  government  are  divided  into  three 
distinct  departments  —  the  legislative,  executive,  and 
judicial. 

The  legislative  department  is  to  consist  of  not  less 
than  thirteen  members,  nor  more  than  sixty-one;  the 
number  not  to  be  increased  more  than  five  in  any  one 
year.  The  members  are  elected  annually;  each  district 
electing  a  number  proportionate  to  its  population. 

The  executive  power  is  vested  in  one  person,  who  is 
elected  by  the  qualified  voters  of  the  territory,  and  holds 
his  office  for  the  term  of  two  years.  The  judicial  power 
is  vested  in  a  supreme  court,  and  such  inferior  courts  of 
law,  equity,  and  arbitration,  as  may  by  law  from  time 
to  time  be  established.  The  supreme  court  consists 
of  one  judge,  elected  by  the  legislature,  and  holds  his 
office  four  years.  They  have  adopted  the  Iowa  code  of 
laws.1'* 

Oregon  is  now  divided  into  eight  counties,  viz:  Lewis, 
Vancouver,  Clatsop,  Yam-hill,  Polk,  Quality,  Clackamis, 


194  Much  has  been  written  on  the  provisional  government  of  Oregon,  which 
was  shadowed  forth  in  the  action  of  1841,  and  actually  established  July  5, 
1843.  Consult  J.  Quinn  Thornton,  "History  of  the  Provisional  Govern- 
ment," in  Oregon  Pioneer  Association  Transactions,  1874,  pp.  43-96;  J.  Henry 
Brown,  Political  History  of  Oregon  (Portland,  1892);  James  R.  Robertson, 
"Genesis  of  Political  Authority  in  Oregon,"  in  Oregon  Historical  Quarterly,  i, 
pp.  1-59;  and  H.  W.  Scott, "  Formation  and  Administration  of  the  Provisional 
Government  of  Oregon,"  ibid.,  ii,  pp.  95-118.  Palmer's  brief  synopsis  is  a 
summary  of  the  revised  organic  law,  drafted  by  a  committee  appointed  by  the 
legislature  in  June,  1845,  endorsed  by  popular  vote  on  July  26,  and  put  in 
operation  August  5  (see  appendix  to  the  present  volume).  This  govern- 
ment continued  until  February  16,  1849,  when  it  was  superseded  by  the  terri- 
torial government  provided  by  Congress  under  act  approved  August  14, 
1848.  The  code  of  Iowa  laws  appears  to  hare  been  adopted  because  of  the 
existence  of  a  copy  of  Iowa  statutes  in  the  country.  See  F.  I.  Herriott,  "Trans- 
planting Iowa's  Laws  to  Oregon,"  in  Oregon  Historical  Quarterly,  v,  pp. 
139-150.—  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  215 

and  Shampoic.195  Lewis  county  includes  that  portion 
of  country  about  Puget's  sound ;  —  Vancouver,  that 
along  the  northern  side  of  the  Columbia.  These  two 
counties  comprise  all  the  territory  north  of  the  Columbia 
river. 

Clatsop  county  includes  that  part  of  the  country  west 
of  the  centre  of  the  coast  range  of  mountains,  and  from 
the  river  south,  to  Yam-hill  county,  and  of  course  includes 
Astoria,  Clatsop  Plains,  &c. 

Quality  county  includes  the  territory  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  Columbia,  on  the  east  by  the  Willamette, 
on  the  south  by  Yam-hill,  and  on  the  west  by  Clatsop 
county. 

Yam-hill  county  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Quality 
and  Clatsop,  (the  line  being  about  fifteen  miles  south  of 
Oregon  city,)  on  the  east  by  the  Willamette  river,  on  the 
south  by  Polk  county,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Ocean. 

[116]  Polk  county  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Yam- 
hill  county,  on  the  east  by  the  Willamette,  on  the  south 
by  the  California  line,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific 
ocean. 

Clackamis  county  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Columbia,  on  the  east  by  the  Rocky  mountains,  on  the 
south  by  Shampoic  county,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Wil- 
lamette, including  Oregon  city. 

Shampoic  county  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Clackamis 
county,  on  the  east  by  the  Rocky  mountains,  on  the  south 
by  California,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Willamette. 

196  The  legislature  of  1843  erected  four  districts  for  the  purpose  of  local 
government  —  i.e.,  Tualatin  (read  for  Quality),  Yamhill,  Champoeg  (read 
for  Shampoic),  and  Clackamas.  That  of  1845  changed  the  title  to  counties 
and  created  four  more  —  Clatsop,  Polk,  Vancouver,  and  Lewis.  Palmer  gives 
their  location  properly. —  ED. 


2 1 6  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

The  country  will,  without  doubt,  be  divided  into  at 
least  three  states.  One  state  will  include  all  the  country 
north  of  the  Columbia  river.  Nature  has  marked  out 
the  boundaries.  Another  state  will  include  all  that 
country  south  of  the  Columbia  river  to  the  California 
line,  and  west  of  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains.  This 
country,  however,  is  large  enough  to  form  two  states. 
The  country  east  of  the  Cascade  range,  extending  to  the 
Rocky  mountains,  and  between  the  Columbia  and  Cali- 
fornia, would  make  another  state.  This  would  include 
more  territory  than  all  the  remainder;  but  it  would  cover 
all  that  vast  barren  region  of  country  which  can  never 
be  inhabited  by  the  white  man.  The  western  portion 
of  this  section  is  fertile.  The  line  doubtless  would  be 
established  between,  leaving  the  eastern  portion  as  Oregon 
territory,  for  future  generations  to  dispose  of. 

The  country  now  contains  over  six  thousand  white 
inhabitants;  and  the  emigration  this  year,  over  land, 
will  be  about  seventeen  hundred  souls,  and  that  by  water 
will  probably  equal  it,  which  will  increase  the  number 
to  near  ten  thousand.  It  may  be  a  safe  calculation  to  set 
down  the  number  for  the  first  of  January,  1847,  at  twelve 
thousand  souls. 

The  settlers  are  labouring  under  great  disadvantages 
on  account  of  not  being  able  to  obtain  a  sufficient  amount 
of  farming  implements.  The  early  settlers  were  supplied 
at  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  store,  and  at  prices  much 
less  than  those  now  charged  for  the  same  articles.  At  that 
time  the  supply  was  equal  to  the  demand ;  but  since  the 
tide  of  emigration  has  turned  so  strongly  to  this  region, 
the  demand  is  much  greater  than  the  supply.  This  may 
be  said  of  almost  every  kind  of  goods  or  merchandise. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  217 

The  supply  of  goods  in  the  hands  of  the  American  mer- 
chants has  been  very  limited,  being  the  remnant  of 
cargoes  shipped  round  upon  the  coast,  more  for  the 
[117]  purpose  of  treating  with  the  Indians,  than  with 
the  cultivators  of  the  soil. 

Great  complaints  have  been  made  by  the  merchants 
trading  in  that  quarter,  that  they  were  not  able  to  compete 
with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company;  and  this  is  the  cry  even 
at  home;  but  the  fact  is,  the  prices  were  much  lower 
before  these  American  merchants  went  into  the  country 
than  they  now  are.  Their  mode  of  dealing  is  to  ask 
whatever  their  avarice  demands,  and  the  necessities  of 
the  purchaser  will  bear.  And  not  being  satisfied  with 
an  open  field,  they  have  petitioned  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  to  put  a  higher  price  upon  their  goods,  as  they 
were  selling  lower  than  the  American  merchants  wished 
to  sell.  In  accordance  with  this  request,  the  H.  B. 
Company  raised  the  price  of  goods  when  sold  to  an 
American,  but  sold  them  at  the  old  prices  to  British 
subjects.  This  arrangement  was  continued  for  two 
years;  but  an  American  can  now  purchase  at  the  fort 
as  cheap  as  any  one.  These  facts  I  obtained  from 
various  sources,  and  when  apprised  of  the  prices  of 
goods  in  that  country,  they  are  not  so  hard  to  be 
believed. 

I  paid  for  a  pair  of  stoga  shoes,  made  in  one  of  the 
eastern  states,  and  a  very  common  article,  four  dollars  and 
fifty  cents;  for  a  common  coarse  cotton  flag  handker- 
chief, which  can  be  had  in  Cincinnati  for  five  or  ten  cents, 
fifty  cents.  The  price  of  calico  ranges  from  thirty-one 
to  eighty-seven  and  a  half  cents  a  yard;  common  red 
flannel  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  yard;  a  box  of  two 


2 1 8  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

hundred  and  fifty  percussion  caps,  two  dollars  and  fifty 
cents;  coarse  boots,  eastern  made,  six  to  eight  dollars; 
calfskin  from  ten  to  twelve  dollars;  coarse  half  hose, 
one  dollar;  dry  goods  generally  ranging  with  the  above 
prices.  Iron  was  selling  at  twelve  and  a  half  cents  per 
pound.  Tools  of  all  kinds  are  very  high;  so  that  what- 
ever may  be  said  against  the  company,  for  putting  down 
the  prices  to  destroy  competition  by  breaking  up  other 
merchants,  cannot  be  "sustained  by  the  facts  of  the  case." 
That  they  prevent  them  from  raising  the  prices  there 
is  no  doubt,  and  if  the  American  merchants  had  the 
field,  clear  of  competition,  the  prices  would  be  double 
what  they  now  are.  They  have  not  capital  to  enable 
them  to  keep  up  a  supply,  nor  to  purchase  the  surplus 
of  the  country.  The  Hudson  Bay  Company  are  the 
only  purchasers  to  any  extent,  for  there  are  no  others 
who  have  the  necessary  machinery  to  manufacture  wheat, 
which  is  the  staple  of  the  country  at  present.  The 
American  merchants  buy  a  few  fish,  [118]  hides,  and 
lumber;  but  in  such  limited  quantities  as  to  be  of  very 
little  advantage  to  the  country. 

A  few  American  merchants,  with  a  little  capital,  would 
give  an  impulse  to  trade,  encourage  the  settlers,  make 
it  a  profitable  business  to  themselves,  and  add  much  to 
the  character  of  the  country.  There  is  scarcely  any 
branch  of  business  that  might  not  be  carried  on  success- 
fully in  Oregon.  Flouring  mills,  saw-mills,  carding 
machines,  fulling  and  cloth  dying,  tin  shops,  potteries, 
tanyards,  &c.,  &c.,  would  all  be  profitable;  and  in  truth 
they  are  all  much  needed  in  the  country. 

The  price  of  a  flour  barrel  is  one  dollar;  that  of  com- 
mon split-bottom  chairs  twenty-four  dollars  per  dozen; 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  219 

a  common  dining  table  without  varnish,  fourteen  dollars; 
half  soling  a  pair  of  shoes  or  boots,  two  dollars;  cutting 
and  splitting  rails,  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  per 
hundred;  eighteen  inch  shingles,  four  dollars  and  fifty 
cents  per  thousand;  cutting  cord  wood,  from  seventy- 
five  cents  to  one  dollar  per  cord;  carpenter's  wages 
from  two  to  three  dollars  per  day;  laborer's  from  one 
to  two  dollars  per  day;  plough  irons  fifty  cents  per  pound; 
stocking  a  plough,  from  four  to  six  dollars.  Wheat, 
eighty  cents  per  bushel;  potatoes  fifty  cents;  corn  sixty- 
two  and  a  half  cents;  oats  fifty  cents;  beef  four  to  six 
cents  per  pound;  pickled  salmon  by  the  barrel,  nine  to 
twelve  dollars  for  shipment ;  work  cattle  are  from  seventy- 
five  to  one  hundred  dollars  per  yoke ;  cows  from  twenty- 
five  to  fifty  dollars  each;  American  work  horses  from 
one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  dollars.  I  have 
never  heard  of  any  sheep  being  sold,  but  presume  they 
would  bring  from  five  to  ten  dollars.  A  tailor  will  charge 
from  six  to  twelve  dollars  for  making  a  dress  coat.  Hogs 
are  high,  though  there  seems  to  be  plenty  of  them  in  the 
country.  The  common  kinds  of  poultry  are  plenty.  It 
is  a  singular  fact  that  the  honey  bee  is  not  found  in  the 
Oregon  territory,  neither  wild  nor  domesticated.  Beef 
hides  are  two  dollars  each;  a  chopping  axe  from  four 
and  a  half  to  six  dollars;  a  drawing  knife,  three  to  five 
dollars;  hand-saws,  six  dollars;  cross-cut  saws,  eight  to 
twelve  dollars;  mill-saws,  twenty-five  dollars.  There  is 
but  little  hollow  ware  in  the  country.  No  stationery  of 
any  kind  could  be  had  when  I  was  there.  The  people 
are  in  great  need  of  school  books;  some  sections  being 
destitute  of  schools  in  consequence  of  not  being  able  to 
procure  books.  Good  teachers  are  also  much  needed. 


22O  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

I  had  expected  to  find  the  winters  much  more  severe 
than  they  turned  out  to  be.  I  had  no  thermometer, 
and  no  means  [119]  of  ascertaining  the  degrees  of  heat 
and  cold,  but  I  kept  an  account  of  the  wet  and  dry 
weather,  cloudy,  clear,  &c.,  &c.,  commencing  on  the 
first  day  of  November  and  ending  on  the  fifth  of  March, 
which  was  the  day  I  started  on  my  return  to  the  United 
States. 

The  ist  and  2d  days  of  November  were  clear;  3d 
rainy;  then  clear  until  the  nth;  cloudy  until  the  i3th. 
Then  cloudy,  with  slight  showers  of  rain  until  the  2oth; 
2ist  and  22nd  clear;  23d  rainy;  24th  and  25th  were 
cloudy,  but  no  rain;  the  weather  was  then  clear  until 
the  29th,  when  it  again  clouded  up. 

3oth  of  November  and  first  of  December  were  cloudy; 
2d  and  3rd  clear,  with  frosty  nights.  On  the  4th  a  misty 
rain;  5th  and  6th  were  cloudy;  from  yth  to  loth  clear 
and  cool,  with  frost  every  night.  On  the  nth  it  rained 
nearly  all  day,  and  on  the  i2th  about  half  the  day.  i3th 
and  i4th  were  cloudy.  From  the  i5th  to  22d  clear  and 
pleasant,  with  frosty  nights;  it  thawed  through  the 
day  in  the  sun  all  that  froze  at  night,  but  in  the  shade 
remained  frozen.  From  the  22d  to  24th  cloudy,  with 
showers  of  drizzling  rain;  25th,  26th  and  27th  rain 
nearly  all  the  time,  but  not  very  copiously;  the  mornings 
were  foggy.  The  28th  and  2Qth  were  clear,  but  very 
foggy  in  the  forepart  of  the  day;  3oth  and  3ist  rain  about 
half  the  time. 

From  the  ist  to  3d  of  January  it  was  squally,  with 
frequent  showers  of  rain;  4th  cloudy,  but  no  rain;  5th 
rained  nearly  all  day.  From  the  6th  to  the  i2th,  clear 
and  pleasant,  being  slightly  foggy  in  the  mornings;  from 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  221 

1 3th  to  i  yth  rained  about  half  each  day,  and  nearly  all 
the  night;  i8th  and  ipth,  cloudy  without  rain.  The 
2oth  and  2ist,  slight  rain  nearly  all  the  time;  22d  was 
cloudy;  23d  and  24th,  rain  about  half  of  each  day; 
25th  rained  all  day,  26th  cloudy,  without  rain,  2 yth  was 
rainy,  some  heavy  showers;  28th  was  clear;  29th,  3oth 
and  3ist,  were  showery  and  blustering,  raining  about 
half  the  time,  and  foggy. 

The  ist  of  February  was  clear;  2d  cloudy,  3d  rainy; 
4th  and  5th  were  a  little  cloudy,  but  pleasant;  6th  and 
7th,  a  few  slight  showers;  8th  and  gth  rainy  and  quite 
cool;  snow  was  seen  on  the  lower  peaks  of  the  Coast 
range  of  mountains,  but  none  in  the  valley.  The  zoth 
was  cloudy,  at  night  a  little  frost;  nth  was  rainy;  i2th 
and  1 3th  rained  all  the  time;  i4th  and  1 5th  were  nearly 
clear,  with  light  frosts.  The  weather  remained  clear 
until  the  23rd,  with  light  frosts,  but  not  cold  enough  to 
freeze  the  ground;  24th  cloudy;  25th  clear;  26th,  27th, 
and  28th  rained  all  the  time. 

[120]  First  of  March,  rained  half  the  day;  2d  cloudy, 
3d  rained  all  day;  4th  cloudy,  5th  was  showery  —  mak- 
ing in  all  about  twenty  days  that  it  rained  nearly  all  the 
day,  and  about  forty  days  that  were  clear,  or  nearly  so; 
the  remainder  of  the  days  were  cloudy  and  showery. 
A  number  of  the  days  set  down  as  rainy,  a  person  with  a 
blanket  coat  could  have  worked  out  all  the  day  without 
having  been  wet.  Much  of  the  time  it  rained  during 
the  night,  when  it  was  clear  through  the  day.  I  should 
think  that  two-thirds  of  the  rain  fell  during  the  night. 

No  snow  fell  in  the  valleys,  nor  were  there  frosts  more 
than  fifteen  nights.  Ice  never  formed  much  over  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  little  streams  and  "swales" 


222  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

sometimes  rise  so  high  as  to  make  it  difficult  to  get  about 
for  a  few  days;  but  they  are  short,  and  soon  run  down. 
But  little  labour  has  yet  been  bestowed  on  the  public 
roads.  The  Willamette  river  is  the  highway  upon  which 
nearly  all  the  traveling  is  done,  and  upon  which  nearly 
all  the  products  of  the  country  are  conveyed.  The 
numerous  streams  can  be  easily  bridged,  and  when  this 
is  done,  there  will  be  but  little  difficulty  in  traveling  at 
any  period  of  the  year. 

Upon  the  5th  of  March,  1846,  I  set  out  on  my  return 
to  the  States.  About  one  week  previous,  a  party  of 
seven  persons  had  also  set  out  on  their  return,  and  we 
expected  to  overtake  them  at  Dr.  Whitman's  station. 
A  few  head  of  lame  cattle  had  been  left  the  preceding 
fall  with  a  man  named  Craig,  who  resided  near  Spal- 
ding's  mission;188  and  as  the  Indians  in  that  vicinity  had 
large  bands  of  horses,  which  they  wished  to  trade  for 
cattle,  I  purchased  several  head  of  cattle  to  trade  for 
horses,  as  also  did  others  of  the  party.  I,  however,  had 
purchased  two  horses  and  one  mule;  which,  with  several 
horses  and  mules  belonging  to  the  party,  had  been 
taken  ahead  on  the  2d  of  the  month,  with  the  view  of 
crossing  the  Columbia  river  at  fort  Vancouver,  going 
up  the  valley  of  the  Columbia,  and  recrossing  below 


188  For  the  location  of  Spaulding's  mission  see  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  338, 
note  215. 

William  Craig  was  a  mountain  man  who  came  to  Oregon  in  1842.  He  mar- 
ried among  the  Nez  Perec's,  and  established  a  farm  just  east  of  the  Lapwai 
mission,  where  he  had  great  influence  with  this  tribe.  In  1855  his  land  was 
reserved  to  him  by  treaty,  the  Nez  Percys  "having  expressed  in  council  a  desire 
that  William  Craig  should  continue  to  live  with  them,  having  uniformly  shown 
himself  their  friend."  In  1856  he  was  made  lieutenant-colonel  of  Washing- 
ton volunteers,  and  in  1857-59,  Indian  agent  at  Walla  Walla. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  223 

the  Dalles.     By  this  route  we  would  avoid  the  deep 
snow  on  the  Cascade  mountains. 

We  loaded  our  effects  on  board  a  boat  which  we  had 
bought  for  that  purpose,  and  at  two  o'clock  P.  M.  shoved 
off;  and  although  anxious  to  be  on  the  way  back,  yet 
I  left  the  place  with  considerable  reluctance.  I  had 
found  the  people  of  Oregon  kind  and  hospitable,  and  my 
acquaintance  with  them  had  been  of  the  most  friendly 
character.  Many  of  the  persons  who  had  traveled 
through  to  Oregon  with  me,  resided  at  Oregon  [121] 
city.  Attachments  had  been  formed  upon  the  road, 
which  when  about  to  leave,  seemed  like  parting  with 
our  own  families.  We  were  about  to  retrace  the  long 
and  dreary  journey  which  the  year  before  had  been 
performed,  and  again  to  brave  the  privations  and  dangers 
incident  to  such  a  journey.  Traveling  as  we  expected 
to  do  on  horseback,  we  could  not  take  those  conveniences 
so  necessary  for  comfort,  as  when  accompanied  with 
wagons;  but  we  bade  adieu  to  the  good  people  of  Oregon, 
and  rapidly  floated  down  the  Willamette  to  the  town  of 
Portland,  twelve  miles  below  the  falls.  It  commenced 
raining  quite  fast,  and  we  hove  to,  and  procured  quarters 
with  Mr.  Bell,  one  of  the  emigrants  who  had  recently 
settled  at  this  place.  This  will  probably  be  a  town  of 
some  consequence,  as  it  occupies  a  handsome  site,  and 
is  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation.  Mr.  Petigrew197  of 

197  For  the  beginnings  of  Portland  see  note  136,  ante,  p.  166. 

Francis  W.  Pettygrove  was  born  in  Calais,  Maine,  in  1812.  Having 
engaged  in  mercantile  business  he  carried  a  cargo  of  goods  valued  at  $15,000 
to  Oregon  by  sea,  establishing  a  store  at  Oregon  City  (1843).  It  was  due  to 
his  wish  that  the  newly-founded  town  near  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette  received 
the  name  of  Portland.  In  1848  Pettygrove  sold  his  interest  in  the  Portland 
town  site,  going  to  California,  where  he  speculated  in  land  at  Benicia.  In 
1851  he  was  one  of  the  founders  of  Port  Townsend,  in  Washington. —  ED. 


224  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

New  York  is  the  proprietor.  It  continued  raining  nearly 
all  night. 

In  the  morning  the  rain  abated;  we  again  took  the 
oars,  and  in  two  hours  and  a  half  reached  the  town  of 
Linton.  Here  are  a  few  log  huts,  erected  among  the 
heavy  timber;  but  it  will  not,  probably,  ever  be  much 
of  a  town.188  A  great  portion  of  the  emigrants  traveling 
down  the  Columbia  land  at  this  place,  and  take  the  road 
to  Quality  plains,  which  are  about  twenty-five  miles 
distant;  but  the  road  is  a  bad  one. 

At  3  o'clock  P.  M.  we  arrived  at  fort  Vancouver, 
where  we  made  a  few  purchases  to  complete  our  outfit, 
and  then  rowed  up  the  river  two  miles  and  a  half,  and 
encamped.  Here  we  found  the  party  with  our  horses. 
The  Indians  had  stolen  two  horses,  several  trail  ropes, 
&c.  The  day  was  showery. 

On  the  yth  we  ascended  about  eighteen  miles,  to  the 
mouth  of  a  stream  coming  in  upon  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  about  one  hundred  yards  in  width,  having  its  source 
in  Mount  St.  Helen.  Here  a  commencement  of  a  settle- 
ment had  been  made  by  Simmons,  Parker,  and  others, 
and  about  a  dozen  buildings  erected,  but  were  now 
abandoned  on  account  of  its  being  subject  to  be  over- 
flowed by  the  annual  high  freshets  of  the  Columbia 
river.199  The  soil  is  good,  with  several  patches  of  prairie. 

188  The  town  of  Linnton  was  founded  in  1843  by  M.  M.  McCarver  and 
Peter  H.  Burnett,  emigrants  of  that  year,  who  supposed  they  had  chosen  a 
site  that  would  be  the  head  of  ship  navigation.  They  spent  the  first  spring 
cutting  the  road  to  Tualatin  Plains;  but  not  finding  Linnton  a  profitable  specu- 
lation, they  removed  to  the  Plains  and  began  farming.  The  town  has  continued 
to  exist  until  the  present,  its  population  in  1900  being  384. —  ED. 

198  The  stream  is  the  Washougal  River  of  Clarke  County,  Washington 
whose  source  is  not  as  far  north  as  Mount  St.  Helens,  but  near  Saddle  Peak  in 
Skamania  County.  A  number  of  the  immigrants  of  1844  stopped  here  and 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  225 

On  our  way  we  passed  the  grist  and  saw  mills  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.  They  stand  immediately  upon 
the  bank  of  the  Columbia.  The  water  power  is  obtained 
from  small  mountain  streams.  The  mills  are  six  and 
eight  miles  above  the  fort.  Several  islands  in  the  river 
might  be  leveed  and  successfully  cultivated.  The  day 
was  cloudy,  with  occasional  showers  of  rain,  and  some 
hail. 

[122]  On  the  8th  we  advanced  sixteen  or  eighteen 
miles.  For  the  greater  part  of  the  way,  the  river  is 
hemmed  in  by  high,  craggy,  rocky  cliffs.  At  a  point, 
called  Cape  Horn,  the  rocks  project  over  the  stream, 
presenting  a  huge  mass  of  black  looking  rocks  of  several 
hundred  feet  in  height.200  Some  of  them  seem  to  have 
broken  and  slid  from  their  former  position,  and  now 
stand  in  detached  columns  erect  in  the  deep  stream, 
presenting  a  grand  and  terrific  appearance.  At  several 
points,  streams  of  water  were  tumbling  more  than  a 
thousand  feet  from  crag  to  crag,  and  falling  into  the 
river  in  broken  sheets.  Upon  one  of  these  columns 
stands  a  solitary  pine  tree,  and  upon  the  topmost  branch 
sat  a  large  bald-headed  eagle.  We  rowed  nearly  under 
it,  when  one  of  our  men  took  his  rifle  and  fired,  and 
down  came  the  eagle,  striking  the  water  not  more  than 

established  winter  quarters,  going  on  the  next  year  to  settle  at  Puget  Sound. 
Chief  among  these  was  Colonel  Michael  T.  Simmons,  this  title  being  bestowed 
because  he  was  second  in  command  of  the  caravan  of  1844.  Born  in  Kentucky 
in  1814,  he  had  in  1840  removed  to  Missouri  where  he  built  and  ran  a  saw  mill, 
which  he  sold  to  obtain  his  outfit  for  the  Oregon  journey.  He  explored  the 
Puget  Sound  region  in  the  spring  of  1845,  settling  at  Turn  water,  where  he 
died  in  1867.  Simmons  is  known  as  the  father  of  Washington;  he  was  sub- 
Indian  agent  for  several  years,  and  much  concerned  in  building  up  the  settle- 
ment.—  ED. 

100  For  this  landmark  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  346,  note  120. —  ED. 


226  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 


ten  feet  from  the  boat.  A  wing  had  been  broken,  and 
we  dispatched  him  with  our  oars;  he  measured  over 
seven  feet  from  tip  to  tip  of  the  wings.  Round  this 
point  the  water  is  sometimes  very  rough.  Boats  have 
been  compelled  to  lay  to,  for  two  weeks,  on  account 
of  the  roughness  of  the  water.  The  day  was  clear. 

Upon  the  gih  we  progressed  about  ten  miles.  Seven 
miles  brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  called  the 
Cascade  falls,  and  here  for  five  miles  the  river  is  hemmed 
in  and  contracted  to  not  more  than  three  hundred  yards 
in  width,  and  runs  with  tremendous  velocity.201  We 
were  compelled  to  cordelle  our  boat,  and  sometimes  lift 
it  over  the  rocks  for  several  rods.  It  is  not  easy  to  form 
an  idea  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered,  in  ascending 
this  rapid.  Late  in  the  evening  we  encamped,  after  a 
day  of  hard  work  in  wading,  pulling  and  lifting.  It 
rained  nearly  all  night. 

On  the  loth  we  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  portage. 
Three  times  we  were  compelled  to  unload  our  boat, 
and  carry  our  effects  over  the  rocks  along  the  shore; 
and  at  the  main  falls  the  distance  of  the  portage  is  nearly 
one  mile.  At  night  we  had  completed  the  portage,  and 
were  all  safe  above  the  falls. 

At  the  foot  of  the  rapids  we  met  several  families  of 
emigrants,  who  had  been  wintering  at  the  Dalles.  One 
of  them  had  traveled  the  most  of  the  way  with  us,  but 
being  unwilling  to  travel  as  fast  as  we  wished,  had  not 
arrived  in  time  to  get  through  before  winter  set  in.  In 
this  family  was  a  young  woman,  who  so  captivated  one 
of  our  party,  that  he  turned  back  with  them. 

On  the  nth  we  made  but  about  eight  miles;  the  wind 

201  For  the  Cascades  see  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  371,  note  233. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  227 

causing  [123]  a  swell  that  rendered  boating  dangerous. 
The  day  was  clear,  and  at  night  there  was  a  hard  frost. 

We  progressed  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  on  the  i2th; 
the  day  was  cloudy.  Here  we  had  designed  crossing 
the  river  with  our  horses. 

The  morning  of  the  i3th  was  too  windy  to  swim  our 
horses  over.  We  attempted  to  take  them  up  the  north 
side  of  the  river;  but  after  clambering  about  three  miles, 
we  were  compelled  to  halt,  the  cliffs  being  so  abrupt 
that  we  were  unable  to  pass  them  with  horses.  We 
remained  at  this  place  through  the  day. 

On  the  morning  of  the  i4th  the  wind  had  so  abated 
that  we  could  swim  our  animals.  We  commenced  by 
taking  four  at  a  time;  two  upon  each  side  of  the  boat, 
with  four  men  rowing.  In  this  manner  by  ten  o'clock 
A.  M.,  all  had  crossed.  The  water  was  very  cold.  The 
width  of  the  river  at  this  place,  is  more  than  a  mile. 
The  party  with  the  horses  then  took  the  trail,  and  we 
saw  no  more  of  them,  until  we  arrived  at  the  Dalles, 
which  we  reached  on  the  i5th.  Here  we  found  five 
of  the  party  who  had  started  a  week  in  advance  of  us. 
Two  of  their  company  had  gone  on  to  Whitman's  station. 
We  sold  our  boat  to  the  Missionaries,  and  remained 
here  until  the  morning  of  the  iQth,  endeavoring  to  hire 
and  buy  horses  to  pack  our  effects  to  Dr.  Whitman's. 
There  were  hundreds  of  horses  belonging  to  the  Indians, 
but  their  owners  knew  our  situation,  and  wished  to 
extort  a  high  price  from  us.  We  so  arranged  our  effects 
as  to  pack  them  on  the  mules  and  horses  we  had,  and 
we  ourselves  traveled  on  foot. 

On  the  evening  of  the  i8th,  we  packed  up  and  pro- 
ceeded two  miles,  when  we  encamped.  Two  Indians 


228  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

came  and  encamped  with  us.  In  the  night  our  mules 
began  to  show  signs  that  a  thief  was  approaching.  The 
guard  apprised  us  of  it,  and  we  prepared  our  arms. 
Our  two  Indian  friends  seeing  that  we  were  prepared 
to  chastise  thieves,  roused  up  and  commenced  running 
around  the  camp,  and  hallooing  most  lustily;  probably 
to  give  warning  that  it  was  dangerous  to  approach,  as 
they  soon  disappeared. 

During  the  day  we  had  seen  some  sport.  As  we  were 
nearly  all  green  in  the  business  of  packing,  and  many 
of  our  animals  were  quite  wild,  we  frequently  had  run- 
ning and  kicking  "  sprees,"  scattering  the  contents  of 
our  packs  over  the  prairie,  and  in  some  cases  damaging 
and  losing  them.  In  one  instance,  while  traveling 
along  a  narrow,  winding  path  upon  the  side  of  [124]  a 
bluff,  a  pack  upon  a  mule's  back  became  loose;  the 
mule  commenced  kicking,  and  the  pack,  saddle  and 
all,  rolled  off,  and  as  the  trail  rope  was  tied  fast  to  the 
mule's  neck,  and  then  around  the  pack,  it  dragged 
the  mule  after  it.  The  bank  for  six  or  eight  hundred 
feet  was  so  steep  that  a  man  could  scarcely  stand  upright. 
The  mule  was  sometimes  ahead  of  the  pack,  at  others 
the  pack  was  ahead  of  the  mule.  At  length,  after  tum- 
bling about  one  thousand  feet,  to  near  a  perpendicular 
ledge  of  rocks,  they  stopped.  Six  feet  farther  would 
have  plunged  them  over  a  cliff  of  two  hundred  feet, 
into  the  river.  We  arrived  at  and  crossed  Falls  river, 
receiving  no  other  damage  than  wetting  a  few  of  our 
packs.202  We  encamped  two  miles  above  Falls  river, 
having  traveled  about  sixteen  miles.  The  weather  was 

2<a  This  is  an  alternate  name  for  Deschutes  River ,  for  which  see  ante, 
p.  119,  note  102. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  229 

clear  and  warm.  We  traveled  leisurely  along,  nothing 
remarkable  occurring;  but  as  some  of  the  party  were 
unaccustomed  to  walking,  they  soon  showed  signs  of 
fatigue  and  sore  feet.  We  were  often  visited  by  a  set 
of  half-starved  and  naked  Indians. 

On  the  26th  we  reached  Fort  Wallawalla,  or  Fort 
Nez  Perces,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  This  fort  stands 
upon  the  east  side  of  the  Columbia,  and  upon  the  north 
bank  of  the  Wallawalla  river.  We  went  about  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  up  the  Wallawalla  river,  and  encamped. 
Near  us  was  a  village  of  the  Wallawalla  Indians,  with 
their  principal  chief.203  This  old  chief  was  not  very 

203  For  this  fort  see  our  volume  rri,  p.  278,  note  73.  The  chief  of  the  Walla- 
walla was  Peupeumoxmox,  or  Yellow  Serpent.  He  early  came  under  mission- 
ary influence,  and  sent  one  of  his  sons  to  the  Willamette  to  be  educated  under 
Methodist  influences.  This  young  man  was  christened  Elijah  Hedding,  for 
a  bishop  of  the  church.  He  remained  with  the  missionaries  for  over  six  years 
and  acquired  a  command  of  English.  In  the  autumn  of  1844  a  number  of 
Cayuse,  Nez  Perce",  and  Wallawalla  chiefs  decided  to  visit  the  California 
settlements  in  order  to  trade  for  cattle.  From  Sutler's  fort  they  made  a  raid 
into  the  interior,  capturing  some  horses  from  a  band  of  thieves.  These 
animals  were  claimed  by  the  Spanish  and  American  settlers  while  the  Indians 
maintained  that  they  were  their  own  property.  In  the  course  of  the  dispute 
Elijah  was  shot  and  killed.  The  Oregon  Indians  were  greatly  exasperated 
by  this  incident,  threatening  to  raise  a  war-party  against  California,  or  to 
make  reprisal  upon  any  or  all  whites.  The  affair  was  quieted  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  agent  and  the  missionaries,  but  was  undoubtedly  one  of  the  causes  of  the 
Whitman  massacre.  Yellow  Serpent  took  no  part  in  this  latter  event,  but 
was  active  in  the  war  of  1855,  in  which  he  perished  while  a  hostage  in  the 
hands  of  the  whites. 

John  Augustus  Sutter  was  a  German-Swiss  born  in  1803.  After  serving 
in  the  Franco-Swiss  guards  (1823-24)  he  came  to  America  (1834)  and  embarked 
in  the  Santa  Fe  trade  (1835-37).  In  1838  he  started  for  California,  going 
via  Oregon,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  Alaska.  Arriving  in  San  Francisco 
Bay  (1839)  he  secured  from  the  Mexican  government  a  concession  on  the 
Sacramento  River,  where  he  built  a  fort  (1842-44)  and  named  his  possessions 
New  Helvetia.  In  1841  Sutter  bought  the  Russian  establishment  known  as 
Ross  (see  our  volume  xviii,  p.  283,  note  121),  whose  materials  he  used  in  fitting 
up  his  own  fort.  Sutter  was  friendly  to  the  American  cause,  and  received 


230  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

friendly  to  Americans.  The  season  before,  a  party  of 
the  Wallawallas  had  visited  California,  by  invitation  of 
Capt.  Suter;  and  whilst  there,  a  difficulty  arose  about 
some  horses,  and  the  son  of  the  old  chief  was  killed  in 
the  fort.  The  Indians  left  immediately,  and  as  Suter 
claimed  to  be  an  American,  the  chief's  feelings  were 
excited  against  all  Americans.  He  had  showed  hostile 
demonstrations  against  a  party  of  Americans  the  summer 
previous;  and  when  we  arrived,  we  were  told  that  he 
was  surly,  and  not  disposed  to  be  friendly.  The  grazing 
about  the  camp  was  poor,  and  we  sent  a  few  men  with 
the  animals  to  the  hills,  three  miles  distant,  to  graze. 
Near  night  we  observed  quite  a  stir  among  the  Indians. 
We  gave  a  signal  to  drive  in  the  horses;  they  soon  came 
in,  and  we  picketed  them  near  the  camp.  As  soon  as 
it  was  dark  the  Indians  commenced  singing  and  dancing, 
accompanied  with  an  instrument  similar  to  a  drum,  and 
giving  most  hideous  yells,  running  to  and  fro.  We 
began  to  suspect  that  they  meditated  an  attack  upon 
our  camp;  and  we  accordingly  prepared  to  meet  them 
by  building  a  fortification  of  [125]  our  baggage,  and  post- 
ing a  strong  guard.  We  remained  in  this  position  until 
day-light,  when  we  packed  up,  and  traveled  up  the  Walla- 
walla  eight  or  ten  miles,  when  we  stopped,  cooked  break- 
fast, and  allowed  our  animals  to  graze. 

Before  starting,  the  old  chief  and  a  few  of  his  principal 

emigrants  with  hospitality.  He  aided  Fremont  in  the  revolt  against  Mexican 
authority.  In  1848  gold  was  discovered  upon  his  property.  He  profited 
but  little  by  this  event,  however,  and  became  so  poor  that  he  was  pensioned 
by  the  California  legislature.  About  1865  he  went  East  to  live,  dying  in  Wash- 
ington, D.  C.,  in  1880.  H.  H.  Bancroft  secured  from  Sutler,  by  means  of 
interviews,  a  detailed  narrative  of  his  career,  and  the  manuscript  is  now  in  the 
Bancroft  Library,  purchased  for  the  University  of  California  in  November 
1905. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  231 

men  made  us  a  visit.  They  appeared  friendly,  and 
wished  to  trade.  We  gave  them  some  provisions,  and 
made  them  a  few  presents  of  tobacco,  pipes,  &c.  After 
shooting  at  a  mark  with  the  chief,  to  convince  him  of  our 
skill,  we  conversed  on  various  subjects,  among  which 
the  death  of  his  son  was  mentioned,  and  he  expressed 
his  detenrnnation  to  go  to  California  this  season.  We 
parted,  he  and  his  people  to  their  village,  and  we  upon 
our  route  to  Dr.  Whitman's. 

We  were  here  joined  by  a  party  of  Nez  Perce  Indians; 
among  whom  were  four  of  their  principal  chiefs.  Ellis 
the  great  chief  was  with  them.  He  speaks  very  good 
English,  and  is  quite  intelligent.  He  was  educated 
at  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  school,  on  Red  river.204 
They  traveled  and  encamped  with  us,  making  heavy 
drafts  upon  our  provisions;  but  as  we  expected  to  replen- 
ish at  Whitman's,  we  gave  them  freely.  We  encamped 
on  a  branch  of  the  Wallawalla.  This  is  a  most  beautiful 
valley  of  good  land,  but  timber  is  limited  to  a  few  cotton- 
wood  and  willows  along  the  streams. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  28th  we  reached  Dr.  Whit- 
man's station.205  Here  we  remained  until  the  3ist, 
when  in  company  with  four  others,  and  the  Nez  Perce* 


204  Ellis  (or  Ellice)  was  the  son  of  Bloody  Chief.  Having  been  educated 
by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  he  had  acquired  much  influence  with  his 
tribe.  In  1842,  being  then  about  thirty-two  years  old,  he  was,  at  the  instiga- 
tion of  Dr.  Elijah  White,  Indian  sub-agent,  chosen  head  chief  of  the  Nez 
Perces,  and  ruled  with  considerable  tact  and  wisdom,  being  favorable  to  the 
whites.  During  the  Cayuse  War  of  1848,  Ellis  was  reported  as  hunting  in 
the  buffalo  country;  later,  it  was  stated  that  having  gone  with  sixty  braves 
to  the  mountains  for  elk,  they  all  perished  from  an  epidemic  of  measles.  Law- 
yer was  chosen  as  head-chief  in  Ellis's  place. —  ED. 

t06  For  the  location  of  Whitman's  mission,  see  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  333, 
note  210. —  ED. 


232  Early  Western  Trave/r  [Vol.  30 

Indians,  we  started  for  Spalding's  mission  —  Mr.  Spal- 
ding  being  of  our  party.  The  rest  of  our  party  remained 
at  Whitman's.  Our  object  was  to  purchase  horses  and 
explore  the  country.  The  distance  from  Dr.  Whitman's 
to  Spalding's  was  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
in  a  north-east  direction.  The  first  day  we  traveled 
but  about  twenty-five  miles,  over  a  most  delightful  prairie 
country,  and  encamped  on  a  beautiful  clear  stream  com- 
ing down  from  the  Blue  mountains,  which  are  about 
twelve  miles  distant.206 

The  first  of  April  we  traveled  about  fifty-five  miles, 
also  over  a  delightful,  rolling,  prairie  country;  crossing 
several  beautiful  streams,  lined  with  timber,  and  afford- 
ing desirable  locations  for  settlement.  The  soil  is  rich, 
and  covered  with  an  excellent  coat  of  grass.  This  region 
possesses  grazing  advantages  over  any  other  portion  of 
Oregon  that  I  have  yet  seen.  The  day  was  blustering, 
with  a  little  snow,  which  melted  as  it  reached  the  ground. 

On  the  2d  of  April  we  arrived  at  Mr.  Spalding's  mission, 
[126]  which  is  upon  the  Kooskooskee  or  Clear  Water,207 
and  about  twenty  miles  above  its  mouth  or  junction  with 
Lewis's  fork  of  the  Columbia.  Ten  miles  from  our 
camp  we  struck  Lewis's  fork,  and  proceeded  up  it  for 
five  miles,  and  crossed.  On  our  way  up  we  passed  a 
ledge  of  rocks  of  fluted  columns,  two  or  three  hundred 
feet  high.  The  bluffs  of  Lewis's  fork  and  the  Kooskoos- 

109  For  the  Blue  Mountains  see  our  volume  xxi,  p.  273,  note  71.  The 
stream  was  probably  Touchet  River,  the  largest  affluent  of  the  Walla  Walla. 
Rising  in  the  Blue  Mountains  in  Columbia  County,  Washington,  it  flows 
northwest  to  Dayton,  then  turns  southwest  and  south,  debouching  into  the 
Walla  Walla  at  the  present  town  of  Touchet. —  ED. 

107  For  this  stream  see  Farnham's  Travels  in  our  volume  xxix,  p.  79,  note 
98.—  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  233 

kee  are  very  high,  sometimes  more  than  three  thousand 
feet.  The  hills  are  nearly  all  covered  with  grass. 

As  the  time  I  could  remain  in  this  region  would  not 
allow  me  to  explore  it  satisfactorily,  I  requested  Mr. 
Spalding  to  furnish  me  with  the  result  of  his  experience 
for  ten  years  in  the  country.  He  very  kindly  complied, 
and  the  following  is  the  information  obtained  from  him.308 
As  he  goes  very  much  into  detail,  it  is  unnecessary  for  me 
to  add  any  further  remarks  here,  in  relation  to  this  region 
of  the  country. 

We  remained  at  this  missionary  establishment  until 
the  loth  of  April.  During  our  stay,  we  heard  related 
many  incidents  common  to  a  mountain  life.  At  one 
time,  when  Mr.  Spalding  was  on  an  excursion  to  one  of 
the  neighboring  villages,  accompanied  by  several  Indians 
and  their  wives,  they  espied  a  bear  at  a  short  distance 
clambering  up  a  tree.  He  ascended  thirty  or  forty 
feet,  and  halted  to  view  the  travelers.  A  tree  standing 
near  the  one  upon  which  sat  the  bear,  with  limbs  con- 
veniently situated  to  climb,  induced  Mr.  Spalding  to 
attempt  to  lasso  master  bruin.  He  accordingly  prepared 
himself  with  a  lasso  rope,  and  ascended  the  tree  until 
he  attained  an  elevation  equal  to  that  of  the  bear.  He 
then  cut  a  limb,  rested  the  noose  of  the  rope  upon  one 
end,  and  endeavored  to  place  it  over  the  head  of  the 
bear;  but  as  the  rope  approached  his  nose,  bruin  struck 
it  with  his  paw,  and  as  Mr.  S.  had  but  one  hand  at  liberty, 
he  could  not  succeed,  the  weight  of  the  rope  being  too 
great.  He  called  to  some  of  his  Indian  friends,  to  come 
up  and  assist  him;  but  none  seemed  willing  to  risk 
themselves  so  near  the  formidable  animal.  At  length 

208  See  Appendix. —  PALMER. 


234  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

one  of  the  squaws  climbed  up,  and  held  the  slack  of  the 
rope,  and  Mr.  S.  succeeded  in  slipping  the  noose  over 
bruin's  head.  He  then  descended  from  the  tree,  and 
as  the  rope  extended  to  the  ground,  they  gave  it  a  jerk, 
and  down  came  the  bear,  which  fell  in  such  a  way  as  to 
pass  the  rope  over  a  large  limb,  thus  suspending  him 
by  the  neck. 

The  cattle  which  we  had  purchased  were  scattered 
over  the  [127]  plain.  On  the  3d  they  were  brought 
in,  and  the  chief  Ellis  bought  the  whole  band,  agreeing 
to  give  one  horse  for  each  head  of  cattle.  His  place  of 
residence  was  about  sixty  miles  further  up  the  Kooskoos- 
kee,  but  his  father-in-law  resided  near  the  mission.  Ellis 
made  arrangements  with  the  latter  for  six  horses,  and 
delivered  them  to  us,  and  his  father-in-law  took  posses- 
sion of  the  cattle.  We  left  the  horses  in  his  possession, 
until  Ellis  could  return  with  the  remainder  of  the  horses. 
In  his  absence  many  of  the  natives  came  in  with  their 
horses  to  trade  for  the  cattle,  and  when  informed  that 
Ellis  had  bought  them  all,  they  were  very  much  displeased, 
and  charged  Ellis  with  conniving  with  the  whites  against 
his  people.  In  a  few  days  Ellis  returned,  when  the  feel- 
ings of  his  people  were  so  much  against  him,  that  he  was 
forced  to  abandon  the  trade.  His  father-in-law  drove 
down  his  band  of  horses  according  to  agreement,  but 
instead  of  bringing  the  horses  which  had  been  selected, 
he  brought  some  old,  broken-down  horses  that  could 
not  stand  the  trip.  We  objected  to  receive  these  horses, 
and  thus  broke  up  the  whole  arrangement.  They  had 
the  horses  and  cattle;  of  course  we  demanded  the  cattle; 
the  Indians  showed  us  that  they  were  on  the  plains,  and 
that  we  must  hunt  them  up.  We  dispatched  a  party, 
and  they  soon  brought  us  all  but  one  heifer. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  235 

Our  intention  then  was  to  drive  the  cattle  down  to  Dr. 
Whitman's,  and  trade  with  the  Cayuses;  but  as  we 
would  be  compelled  to  travel  on  foot  for  nearly  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  we  abandoned  the  project. 
The  neighboring  Indians  soon  drove  in  some  horses  to 
trade,  and  before  night  we  had  disposed  of  all  but  four 
head  of  our  cattle,  one  yoke  of  oxen,  one  yearling  heifer, 
and  a  yearling  calf.  The  oxen  belonged  to  me.  I  left 
them  in  charge  of  Mr.  Spalding,  until  my  return.  In 
the  exchange  one  horse  was  given  for  a  cow  or  heifer. 
A  few  horses  were  purchased  for  other  articles  of  trade, 
such  as  blankets,  shirts,  knives,  &c.  The  value  of 
fourteen  dollars  in  trade  would  buy  an  ordinary  horse; 
if  it  was  an  extra  horse  something  more  would  be  asked. 
Four  blankets  was  the  price  of  a  horse.  None  of  the 
Indians  would  take  money  except  Ellis.  In  fact  they 
did  not  seem  to  know  the  value  of  money. 

During  our  stay  at  this  place,  the  Indians  flocked  in 
from  all  quarters.  It  is  but  seldom  that  the  whites  visit 
this  portion  of  the  country,  and  the  Indians  all  seemed 
anxious  to  see  us.  The  house  was  literally  filled  from 
morning  until  night  with  men,  women,  and  children. 
They  are  usually  much  better  [128]  clad  than  any  other 
tribe  east  or  west  of  the  mountains,  are  quite  cleanly, 
and  are  an  industrious  people.  They  have  made  con- 
siderable advances  in  cultivating  the  soil,  and  have  large 
droves  of  horses,  and  many  of  them  are  raising  large 
herds  of  cattle.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Spalding  have  kept  up  a 
school,  and  many  of  the  Indians  have  made  great  profi- 
ciency in  spelling,  reading,  and  writing.  They  use  the 
English  alphabet  to  the  Nez  Perce*  language.  Mr. 
Spalding  has  made  some  translations  from  the  Scrip- 
tures, and  among  others  from  the  book  of  Matthew. 


236  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

From  this  printed  copy209  many  of  the  Indians  have 
printed  with  a  pen  fac  similes  of  the  translation,  which 
are  neatly  executed.  I  have  several  copies  in  my  posses- 
sion of  these  and  other  writings,  which  can  be  seen  at 
any  time  in  Laurel,  Indiana.  They  are  a  quiet,  civil 
people,  but  proud  and  haughty;  they  endeavor  to  imitate 
the  fashions  of  the  whites,  and  owe  much  of  their  supe- 
rior qualifications  to  the  Missionaries  who  are  among 
them. 

Mr.  Spalding  and  family  have  labored  among  them 
for  ten  years  assiduously,  and  the  increasing  wants  and 
demands  of  the  natives  require  an  additional  amount 
of  labor.  A  family  of  their  own  is  rising  around  them, 
which  necessarily  requires  a  portion  of  their  time;  and 
the  increasing  cares  of  the  family  render  it  impossible 
to  do  that  amount  of  good,  and  carry  out  fully  that  policy 
which  they  have  so  advantageously  commenced  for  the 
natives.  It  is  impossible  for  one  family  to  counteract 
all  the  influences  of  bad  and  designing  men,  of  whom 
there  are  not  a  few  in  the  country.  They  need  more 
assistance.  There  are  a  sufficient  number  of  estab- 
lishments, but  not  a  sufficient  number  of  persons  at  those 
establishments.  For  instance:  Mr.  Spalding  must  now 
attend  not  only  to  raising  produce  for  his  own  family, 
but  also  to  supply  in  a  great  measure  food  to  numerous 
families  of  Indians;  to  act  as  teacher  and  spiritual  guide, 
as  physician,  and  perform  many  other  duties  incident 
to  his  situation.  With  such  a  multitude  of  claims  on 

109  For  the  history  of  the  printing  press  in  use  at  this  mission,  see  our  volume 
xrviii,  p.  333,  note  211.  The  first  book  in  the  Nez  Perc6  language  was  a  little 
compilation  of  texts,  consisting  of  eight  pages.  The  translation  of  Matthew 
was  printed  at  Lapwai;  that  of  John  was  later  published  by  the  American 
Bible  Society. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  237 

his  attention,  his  energies  are  too  much  divided,  and 
on  the  whole  his  influence  is  lessened.  Could  not  the 
Missionary  board  send  out  an  assistant? 

There  is  one  thing  which  could  be  accomplished  with 
a  small  outlay,  that  would  be  of  lasting  advantage  to 
these  people.  They  are  raising  small  flocks  of  sheep, 
and  have  been  taught  to  card  and  spin  and  weave  by 
hand,  and  prepare  clothing  —  but  the  process  is  too 
tedious.  A  carding  machine  and  machinery  for  fulling 
cloth  would  be  a  saving  to  the  board  of  [129]  missions, 
and  of  lasting  benefit  to  the  natives.  There  are  no  such 
machines  in  that  country.  The  wood  work  of  those 
machines  could  nearly  all  be  done  in  the  country;  the 
cards  and  castings  are  all  that  would  be  necessary  to 
ship.  A  mechanic  to  set  up  the  machines  would  be 
necessary. 

Perhaps  no  part  of  the  world  is  better  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  wool  than  this  middle  region,  and  it  abounds 
with  water-power  to  manufacture  it.  Farmers,  mechanics 
and  teachers,  should  be  sent  among  these  people  by  the 
missionary  board,  or  by  the  government.  A  division  is 
about  being  made  in  this  nation,  which  if  not  counter- 
acted, will  doubtless  lead  to  bad  consequences.  Three 
Delaware  Indians  have  crossed  the  mountains,  and  set- 
tled on  the  Kooskooskee  among  the  Nez  Perce  Indians. 
One  of  them,  named  Tom  Hill,  has  so  ingratiated  himself 
into  the  feelings  of  the  Nez  Perce  Indians,  that  he  has 
succeeded  in  persuading  about  one  hundred  lodges  to 
acknowledge  him  as  their  chief.  It  was  formerly,  as 
among  other  tribes,  customary  for  an  Indian  to  have 
as  many  wives  as  he  could  maintain;  but  the  missionaries 
taught  them  otherwise,  and  succeeded  in  abolishing  this 


238  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

heathen  custom.  But  Tom  Hill  tells  them  that  they 
can  have  as  many  wives  as  they  please.  He  says  to 
them,  You  make  me  chief,  and  I  will  make  you  a  great 
people.  The  white  men  tell  you  not  to  steal  —  I  tell 
you  there  is  no  harm  in  it;  the  bad  consists  in  being 
caught  at  it.  These  men  will  mislead  you,  &c.,  &c. 

Ellis  and  the  other  chiefs  have  exerted  themselves  to 
recall  their  people,  but  they  cannot  succeed.  In  convers- 
ing with  Ellis,  I  enquired  whether  cases  of  insanity  were 
common  among  his  people.  He  answered  that  he  never 
knew  a  case  of  insanity,  but  this  one  of  Tom  Hill's. 
He  looks  upon  him  as  a  crazy  man.  The  two  other  Dela- 
ware Indians  are  young  men,  and  are  industrious  and 
peaceable.  They  have  commenced  cultivating  the  soil, 
and  are  raising  a  fine  herd  of  cattle.  Ellis  is  considered 
wealthy.  He  has  about  fifteen  hundred  horses,  a  herd 
of  cattle,  some  hogs,  and  a  few  sheep.  Many  persons 
in  this  nation  have  from  five  to  fifteen  hundred  head  of 
horses.  In  traveling  from  Dr.  Whitman's  to  this  place, 
I  saw  more  than  ten  thousand  horses  grazing  upon  the 
plains.  They  are  good  looking,  and  some  of  them  large. 

In  the  fall  I  had  made  enquiries  as  to  whether  it  was 
practicable  to  obtain  the  necessary  supplies  at  these 
missions  for  our  home  journey;  and  in  the  winter  Mr. 
Spalding  wrote  to  us  that  he  could  furnish  us  with  flour 
and  meat.  We  had  accordingly  [130]  contemplated  pro- 
curing a  part  of  our  outfit  at  this  place.  A  few  bad 
designing  Indians  had  frequently  given  Mr.  Spalding 
trouble  about  his  place,  and  had  made  severe  threats. 
At  one  time  they  had  threatened  to  tie  him,  and  drive 
his  family  away.  They  complained  that  the  whites  never 
came  through  their  country,  giving  them  the  advantages 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  239 

of  trade;  but  that  the  white  men  passed  through  the 
Cayuse  country,  selling  their  cattle,  clothing,  &c.;  and 
that  if  they  could  not  have  all  the  benefits  of  trade,  the 
whites  should  leave  the  country. 

Early  in  the  spring  some  of  them  had  got  into  a  fit  of 
ill  humour,  and  had  ordered  Mr.  Spalding  from  the 
place,  cut  open  his  mill-dam,  threw  down  his  fences, 
broke  the  windows  of  the  church,  crippled  some  of  his 
hogs,  and  took  possession  of  the  whole  premises.  This 
time  they  seemed  to  be  determined  to  carry  their  threats 
into  execution.  Mr.  S.  allowed  them  to  take  their  own 
course,  putting  no  obstacle  in  their  way.  The  principal 
men  seemed  to  look  on  with  indifference;  but  they 
evidently  saw  that  it  was  likely  to  injure  them,  more 
than  it  would  Mr.  Spalding;  for  they  relied  upon  the 
mill  and  farm  for  their  support  to  a  great  extent. 

In  the  meantime  Mr.  Spalding  had  written  a  letter 
to  us,  informing  us  of  his  situation,  and  that  we  could 
not  rely  on  him  for  furnishing  us  with  supplies.  He 
gave  the  letter  to  an  Indian  to  carry  to  Dr.  Whitman's, 
that  it  might  be  forwarded  to  us.  The  Indians  being 
apprised  of  the  contents  of  the  letter,  stopped  the  carrier, 
and  took  from  him  the  letter,  and  after  a  consultation 
determined  to  abandon  their  rash  course;  as  it  would 
be  likely  to  deprive  them  of  the  benefit  of  our  trade,  and 
be  a  barrier  against  the  white  men  ever  coming  to  trade 
with  them.  They  accordingly  brought  the  letter  to  Mr. 
Spalding,  acknowledging  they  had  done  wrong,  and 
placed  him  in  full  possession  of  his  premises,  promising 
to  behave  better  for  the  future;  and  when  we  arrived 
he  was  enjoying  their  full  confidence. 

The  Indians  informed  us  that  there  was  a  good  pass- 


240  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

way  upon  the  north  side  of  Lewis's  fork,  by  proceeding 
up  the  Kooskooskee  some  sixty  miles,  and  then  striking 
across  to  Salmon  river,  and  then  up  to  Fort  Bois.  By 
taking  this  route  in  the  winter  season,  we  would  avoid 
the  deep  snow  upon  the  Blue  Mountains,  as  the  route 
is  mostly  up  the  valley  of  Lewis'  river,  and  it  is  undoubt- 
edly nearer  to  Puget  Sound  than  by  the  old  route.  Those 
wishing  to  settle  about  the  Sound  would  do  well  to  take 
this  route,  or  at  least  the  saving  in  the  distance  [131] 
would  justify  an  examination  of  the  route,  to  ascertain 
its  practicability. 

We  were  very  hospitably  entertained  by  Mr.  Spalding, 
and  his  interesting  family.  With  the  exception  of  Mr. 
Gilbert,  who  is  now  engaged  on  the  mission  farm,  and 
Mr.  Craig,  who  has  a  native  for  a  wife,  and  lives  six 
hundred  yards  from  Mr.  Spalding's  dwelling,  the  nearest 
white  families  are  Messrs.  Walker  and  Ellis,  who  have  a 
mission  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  to  the  north,  among 
the  Flathead  nation;  and  Dr.  Whitman,  nearly  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  distant,  among  the  Cayuses.210 

In  this  lonely  situation  they  have  spent  the  best  part 
of  their  days,  among  the  wild  savages,  and  for  no  com- 
pensation but  a  scanty  subsistence.  In  the  early  part 
of  their  sojourn  they  were  compelled  to  use  horse  meat 
for  food,  but  they  are  now  getting  herds  of  domestic 
animals  about  them,  and  raise  a  surplus  of  grain  beyond 
their  own  wants.  At  Mr.  Spalding's  there  is  an  excuse 

110  For  this  mission  and  its  missionaries  see  our  volume  xxvii,  p.  367,  note 
187.  The  farmer  at  Lapwai  mission  was  Isaac  N.  Gilbert,  who  was  born  in 
New  York  (1818).  He  early  emigrated  to  Illinois,  and  came  to  Oregon  with 
the  party  of  1844.  Late  in  1846  he  proceeded  to  the  Willamette  valley,  and 
settled  near  Salem,  where  he  was  county  clerk  and  surveyor,  dying  in  1879. 
See  Oregon  Pioneer  Association  Transactions,  1878,  pp.  82,  83. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  241 

for  a  grist  mill,  which  answers  to  chip  up  the  grain,  but 
they,  have  no  bolting  cloth ;  in  place  of  which  they  use 
a  sieve.  The  meal  makes  very  good  bread.  There 
was  formerly  a  saw  mill,  but  the  irons  have  been  taken 
and  used  in  a  mill  which  Dr.  Whitman  has  recently 
built  about  twenty  miles  from  his  dwelling,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Blue  mountains.  The  Catholics  have  several 
missionary  establishments  upon  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Columbia.211 

On  the  loth  of  April  we  had  made  the  necessary 
arrangements,  and  started  on  our  return  to  Dr.  Whit- 
man's, where  we  arrived  on  the  i4th.  On  my  way 
down  in  the  fall,  I  had  left  a  horse  and  a  heifer  with  the 
Doctor.  They  were  now  running  on  the  plains.  Several 
persons  were  engaged  in  hunting  them  up;  the  horse 
was  found  and  brought  in,  and  was  in  good  condition. 
The  Indians  had  concealed  the  horse,  in  order  to  force 
a  trade,  and  offered  to  buy  him,  they  to  run  the  risk  of 
finding  him;  but  as  he  was  a  favorite  horse,  that  I  had 
brought  from  home,  I  felt  gratified  when  he  was  found. 
The  heifer  I  traded  for  a  horse,  the  purchaser  to  find 
her.  My  two  oxen,  which  I  had  left  at  Mr.  Spalding's, 
I  traded  for  a  horse.  An  Indian  who  had  stolen  a  horse 
from  a  company  in  the  fall,  had  been  detected,  and  the 
horse  taken  to  fort  Wallawalla.  He  had  again  stolen 
the  horse,  and  traded  him  off.  He  was  at  Dr.  Whit- 
man's, and  as  the  owner  was  of  our  party,  he  made  a 
demand  for  the  horse,  and  the  Indian  gave  up  a  [132] 
poor  old  horse  in  its  stead.  This  was  the  same  fellow 
that  had  bought  my  heifer. 

211  For  these  missions  see  De  Smet's  reports  in  our  volumes  xxvii,  p.  365, 
note  184;  xxix,  p.  178,  note  73. —  ED. 


242  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

We  remained  at  Dr.  Whitman's  until  the  i7th,  when 
all  was  prepared,  and  we  made  a  formal  start.  Our 
party  consisted  of  eighteen  persons,  and  fifty-one  horses 
and  mules.  We  traveled  about  eight  miles,  and 
encamped.  On  the  i8th,  we  traveled  to  the  Umatillo. 
On  the  way  the  fellow  who  had  bought  the  heifer  over- 
took us  and  demanded  the  horse,  as  he  said  he  had 
not  time  to  hunt  up  the  heifer.  I  refused  to  give  it  up, 
and  he  insisted.  At  this  juncture  Dr.  Whitman  over- 
took us,  and  the  Indian  made  complaint  to  him.  It  was 
arranged  that  we  should  all  go  on  to  Umatillo,  where 
several  of  the  chiefs  resided,  and  have  the  matter  ami- 
cably settled.  We  reached  the  river  in  the  afternoon, 
and  repaired  to  the  chief's.  The  Indian  told  his  story, 
and  I  told  mine.  The  chief  ^decided  that  I  should  give 
up  the  horse,  and  he  would  give  me  a  horse  for  the  heifer. 
I  agreed  that  in  case  the  heifer  could  not  be  found,  to 
give  him  another  on  my  return  to  Oregon.  The  Indian 
set  out  with  his  horse,  and  the  chief  soon  brought  me 
one  in  its  place,  worth  at  least  two  such  as  the  first.  Of 
course  I  was  much  pleased  with  the  exchange. 

At  night  it  commenced  raining,  and  then  snowing, 
and  in  the  morning  the  snow  was  four  or  five  inches 
deep  on  the  ground.  We  were  then  immediately  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  as  we  expected  the  snow 
had  fallen  deep  upon  the  mountain,  we  remained  in 
camp  all  day.  The  2oth  was  unfavorable  for  traveling, 
and  we  remained  in  camp. 

On  the  2ist  we  took  up  the  line  of  march,  ascended  the 
mountain,  and  advanced  about  twenty-five  miles,  which 
brought  us  over  the  dividing  ridge.  We  found  the  snow 
in  patches,  and  sometimes  three  feet  deep  —  that  is, 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  243 

the  old  snow,  for  the  new  fallen  snow  had  all  melted 
away.  The  grazing  was  poor,  but  at  night  we  found 
a  prairie  upon  the  south  side  of  the  mountain,  which 
afforded  a  scanty  supply  of  grass;  here  we  encamped 
for  the  night. 

The  22d  was  very  blustery,  sometimes  snowing;  very 
disagreeable  traveling.  We  reached  the  Grand  Round 
at  2  o'clock  P.  M.  and  encamped.  Here  we  found  an 
abundance  of  good  grass,  and  halted  for  the  night. 
During  the  night  the  horse  which  I  had  obtained  of 
the  old  chief  broke  from  his  picket,  and  in  company 
with  one  that  was  running  loose,  took  the  back  track. 
In  the  morning  we  dispatched  two  men,  who  followed 
them  about  four  miles,  when  it  was  found  that  the  [133] 
horses  had  left  the  road.  The  two  men  went  back  ten 
or  twelve  miles,  but  could  see  nothing  of  the  horses. 
They  then  returned  to  camp.  We  in  the  mean  time 
had  packed  up,  and  traveled  across  Grand  Round 
about  eight  miles,  when  we  encamped.  In  the  morn- 
ing we  started  back  four  men  to  hunt  for  the  horses. 
On  the  evening  of  the  24th  our  men  returned,  but  with- 
out the  horses. 

On  the  morning  of  the  25th  we  packed  up,  traveled 
about  twenty-six  miles,  and  encamped  on  Powder  river, 
near  the  lone  pine  stump.212 

On  the  27th  we  traveled  about  twenty-five  miles. 
On  the  28th  we  traveled  about  twenty-three  miles,  and 
encamped  near  Malheur. 

On  the  29th  we  reached  fort  Bois.  The  people  at 
the  fort,  and  the  Indians  in  the  vicinity,  were  evidently 
much  alarmed.  Before  reaching  the  fort,  I  saw  at  a 

212  For  this  landmark  see  our  volume  xxviii,  p.  324,  note  204. —  ED. 


244  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

distance  numerous  columns  of  smoke,  alternately  rising 
and  disappearing;  and  then  another  column  would 
rise  at  a  great  distance.  These  columns  of  smoke 
seemed  to  be  signals  that  enemies  were  in  the  country. 
The  people  at  the  fort  were  seemingly  friendly,  and 
supplied  us  with  milk  and  butter.  We  selected  our 
camping  ground  with  caution,  and  with  an  eye  to  the 
defence  both  of  horses  and  men.  Our  guard  was 
doubled.  We  were  visited  by  many  Indians,  but  no 
hostile  demonstration  was  exhibited.  Here  the  wagon 
road  crosses  the  river,  but  as  there  were  no  canoes  at 
the  upper  crossing,  and  the  river  was  too  high  to  ford, 
we  decided  upon  traveling  up  the  south  side  of  the  river. 
On  the  3oth  of  April  we  packed  up,  and  left  fort  Bois. 
The  trail  led  us  up  to  the  mouth  of  a  stream  coming 
in  on  the  south  side  of  Lewis  river,  about  one  hundred 
yards  in  width.  This  we  reached  in  about  three  miles. 
Immediately  at  the  crossing  is  an  Indian  village  of  the 
Shoshonee  tribe.  When  within  one  fourth  of  a  mile 
from  the  crossing,  an  Indian  who  had  been  at  our  camp 
the  evening  before,  was  seen  riding  furiously  towards 
us.  He  came  up  directly  to  me,  extending  his  hand, 
which  I  took  of  course;  two  or  three  were  riding  in 
front  with  me,  who  all  shook  hands  with  him.  He 
then  turned  and  led  the  way  through  the  bushes  to  the 
crossing.  At  the  point  where  we  came  out,  the  bank 
was  some  fifteen  feet  high.  A  narrow  place  had  been 
cut  down,  so  as  to  admit  but  one  horse  at  a  time  to  go 
up  the  bank;  the  village  was  immediately  upon  the 
bank,  and  I  discovered  some  thirty  or  forty  Indians 
standing  near  the  point  where  the  trail  ascended  the 
bank.  I  rode  [134]  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  where  about 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  245 

fifteen  ugly  looking  Indians  were  standing,  all  striving 
to  shake  hands,  but  my  horse  would  not  allow  them  to 
approach. 

I  passed  on,  the  company  following,  and  as  we  formed 
a  long  train,  being  in  single  file,  by  the  time  those  behind 
were  out  of  the  creek,  those  in  the  lead  were  five  or  six 
hundred  yards  from  the  bank,  and  over  a  ridge.  I 
halted  the  front,  for  all  to  come  up,  when  I  discovered 
that  Buckley,  who  was  in  the  rear  riding  one  horse  and 
leading  another,  had  not  appeared  over  the  ridge.  Two 
of  the  men  who  were  in  the  rear  went  back  for  him. 
The  horse  which  he  was  leading  soon  came  running 
over  the  ridge,  and  as  Buckley  did  not  make  his  appear- 
ance, we  supposed  that  something  was  wrong.  Others 
started  back,  but  they  all  soon  returned,  and  we  went 
on.  In  a  few  minutes,  however,  one  of  the  party  came 
riding  up,  and  stated  that  the  Indians  were  going  to 
charge  upon  us. 

At  this  instant  a  gun  was  fired  by  them,  and  a  hideous 
yelling  was  heard  at  our  heels.  The  Indians  were  drawn 
up  in  line  upon  the  ridge,  all  armed,  some  with  muskets, 
and  others  with  bows  and  arrows.  The  fellow  who 
had  met  us,  was  still  mounted,  and  running  his  horse 
from  one  end  of  the  line  to  the  other,  and  all  were  yelling 
like  fiends.  I  thought  it  could  not  be  possible  that 
they  would  charge  upon  us,  and  ordered  all  hands  to 
move  along  slowly  but  cautiously,  to  have  their  arms 
in  readiness,  and  to  keep  the  pack  animals  together,  so 
that  they  could  be  stopped  at  any  moment.  We  marched 
along  slowly  in  close  order,  and  paid  no  further  regard 
to  the  Indians,  than  to  carefully  watch  their  movements. 
They  followed  along  a  few  hundred  yards,  and  halted, 


246  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

their  yells  then  ceased,  and  we  saw  nothing  more  of 
them. 

When  the  two  men  returned  to  Buckley,  the  mounted 
Indian  spoken  of  had  Buckley's  horse  by  the  head; 
he  had  proposed  an  exchange,  but  Buckley  did  not 
wish  to  swap,  and  asked  him  to  let  go  the  bridle:  the 
Indian  held  on,  Buckley  pulled  and  he  pulled;  Buckley 
rapped  his  knuckles  with  a  whip,  and  in  the  scuffle  the 
horse  that  B.  was  leading  broke  loose,  and  ran  over 
the  ridge,  they  not  being  able  to  catch  him.  At  this 
juncture  the  two  men  arrived;  one  of  them  raised  his 
rifle  in  the  attitude  of  striking  the  Indian  on  the  head, 
but  he  paid  no  regard  to  it;  the  other,  seeing  his  deter- 
mined manner,  rushed  at  him  with  his  bowie  knife; 
he  then  let  go  the  bridle,  and  our  men  came  up  to  the 
company.  What  his  object  was,  or  what  their  object 
in  rallying  their  forces,  I  could  not  conjecture:  but  it 
[135]  put  us  on  our  guard.  At  our  night  encampment 
there  were  Indians  prowling  about,  but  they  were  afraid 
of  our  riding  too  near  them,  and  made  no  attempt  to 
steal,  or  otherwise  molest  us.  The  country  was  extremely 
dry  and  barren;  grazing  was  very  poor. 

On  the  5th  of  May  we  arrived  at  the  upper  crossing 
of  Snake  river.  On  our  way  we  had  seen  several  villages 
of  Shoshonee  Indians,  but  were  not  disturbed  by  them. 
The  grazing  was  poor,  and  the  country  very  barren. 
We  crossed  several  warm  streams  running  down  from 
the  mountains,  which  appeared  at  a  distance  of  from 
five  to  ten  miles  on  our  right.  A  wagon  road  can  be 
had  along  the  south  side  of  the  river,  by  hugging  the 
base  of  the  mountains  for  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  when  it 
would  take  down  the  low  bottom  of  Snake  or  Lewis 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  247 

river;  but  the  distance  is  greater  than  by  crossing  the 
river. 

On  the  6th  of  May  we  reached  Salmon  falls,  and  went 
up  six  miles  to  Salmon  Fall  creek,  and  encamped.  On 
the  8th  and  gth  it  rained  and  snowed,  so  that  we  were 
compelled  to  lay  by  most  of  the  time.  On  the  loth 
it  cleared  up,  and  in  the  afternoon  we  had  fair  weather 
and  pleasant  traveling.  On  the  i2th  we  reached  Cassia 
creek.  At  this  place  the  California  trail  turns  off. 

On  the  1 4th  we  arrived  at  Fort  Hall.  On  the  i6th 
we  reached  the  Soda  Springs.  On  the  i8th  we  met 
about  six  hundred  lodges  of  Snake  Indians;  they  were 
moving  from  Big  Bear  river  to  Lewis'  fork.  On  the 
23d  we  reached  Green  river,  taking  the  northern  route. 
Much  of  the  time  the  weather  has  been  cool  with  frosty 
nights,  and  several  days  of  rain  and  snow. 

On  the  24th  we  crossed  Green  river,  and  traveled 
about  forty  miles  to  the  Big  Sandy.  The  day  was 
blustering,  with  rain  and  snow.  Along  the  bottoms 
of  the  Sandy  we  found  very  good  grazing  for  our 
animals. 

On  the  25th  we  traveled  to  the  Little  Sandy.  On 
the  26th  we  arrived  at  the  South  Pass,  and  encamped 
on  Sweet  Water.  Here  we  saw  a  few  buffalo.  The  ride 
from  Little  Sandy  to  Sweet  Water  was  extremely  unpleas- 
ant on  account  of  the  wind  and  snow.  We  were  some- 
times compelled  to  walk,  in  order  to  keep  warm.  We 
here  found  a  horse,  which  we  supposed  had  been  lost 
by  some  emigrants  the  year  before.  He  came  running 
to  our  band,  and  exhibited  signs  of  the  greatest  joy, 
by  capering  and  prancing  about.  He  was  quite  fat, 
and  seemed  determined  to  follow  us. 


248  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

[136]  On  the  27th  we  traveled  down  the  valley  of  Sweet 
Water  about  twenty-five  miles.  On  our  way  we  saw 
some  hundreds  of  buffalo  and  antelope,  and  two  grizzly 
bears.  We  gave  the  latter  chase,  but  did  not  succeed  in 
taking  them.  We  had  some  difficulty  in  preventing 
our  pack  animals  from  following  the  numerous  bands 
of  buffalo  which  came  rolling  past  us. 

We  traveled  down  this  valley  until  the  3oth,  and 
encamped  about  four  miles  east  of  Independence  Rock, 
at  a  spring  near  a  huge  mountain  of  gray  granite  rock. 
Soon  after  encamping  it  commenced  raining,  which 
turned  to  snow,  and  in  the  morning  we  had  about  five 
inches  of  snow  upon  us.  We  were  uncomfortably 
situated,  as  we  could  procure  but  little  fuel,  and  had 
no  means  of  sheltering  ourselves  from  the  "peltings 
of  the  pitiless  storm."  Our  horses  too  fared  poorly. 

On  the  3ist  of  May  we  remained  in  camp.  By  noon 
the  snow  had  disappeared,  and  we  succeeded  in  finding 
a  few  dry  cedar  trees,  built  a  fire,  and  dried  our  effects. 
We  had  an  abundance  of  buffalo  marrow-bones,  tongues, 
and  other  choice  pieces,  on  which  we  feasted.  We  saw 
large  droves  of  mountain  sheep,  or  big-horn,  and  thou- 
sands of  antelope. 

On  the  2d  of  June  we  arrived  at  the  north  fork  of 
Platte.  The  plains  during  this  day's  travel  were  literally 
covered  with  buffalo,  tens  of  thousands  were  to  be  seen 
at  one  view;  antelope  and  black-tailed  deer  were  seen 
in  great  abundance,  and  a  few  elk  and  common  deer. 
One  panther,  and  hundreds  of  wolves  were  also  seen. 
We  found  the  river  too  high  to  ford.  Soon  after  encamp- 
ing, snow  commenced  falling,  which  continued  all  night, 
but  melted  as  it  reached  the  ground.  The  grazing  on 


1845-1846]  Palmer' s  Journal  249 

the  bottom  was  excellent,  the  grass  being  about  six 
inches  high.  This  was  the  best  grass  we  had  seen  since 
leaving  Burnt  river. 

On  the  3d  we  succeeded  in  finding  a  ford,  and  in 
the  evening  we  crossed.  On  the  4th  we  reached  Deer 
creek,  having  traveled  about  thirty  miles.  On  the  way 
we  saw  a  band  of  Indians  whom  we  supposed  to  be  of 
the  Crow  nation,  and  as  they  are  generally  for  fight, 
we  prepared  to  give  them  a  warm  reception;  but  it 
seemed  that  they  were  as  fearful  of  us,  as  we  were  of 
them.218  They  were  soon  out  of  sight.  After  traveling 
about  five  miles,  we  saw  them  drawn  up  into  line  two 
miles  from  the  road.  As  they  were  at  a  respectful 
distance,  we  did  not  molest  them.  We  however  kept 
a  sharp  look  out,  and  at  night  were  cautious  in  selecting 
camp  ground.  The  grass  was  good,  and  our  animals 
fared  well. 

[137]  On  the  5th  we  traveled  about  fifteen  miles, 
and  encamped  on  Mike's-head  creek.214  Here  we 
found  two  trappers,  who  had  been  out  about  three 
weeks.  They  accompanied  us  to  Fort  Laramie,  which 
we  reached  on  the  8th  of  June.  In  the  morning  H. 
Smith,  one  of  our  party,  in  catching  a  mule  was  thrown, 
and  his  shoulder  dislocated.215  We  attempted  to  set 


M3  For  the  Crow  Indians  see  our  volume  v,  p.  226,  note  121. —  ED. 

114  Mike's  Head  is  probably  a  popular  name  for  the  rush  of  the  Equisetum 
species,  known  as  "horsetail."  The  creek  is  known  by  the  French  form  of 
this  plant — a  la  Prele;  it  is  a  tributary  of  the  Platte,  in  Converse  County, 
Wyoming. —  ED. 

215  Hiram  Smith  was  born  in  New  York,  early  emigrated  to  Ohio,  and 
crossed  the  Plains  with  the  party  of  1845.  Having  returned  with  Palmer  he  re- 
mained in  the  states  until  1851,  coming  again  to  Oregon  with  a  large  drove  of 
cattle  and  horses.  He  settled  at  Portland,  and  became  wealthy  and  influential. 


250  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

it,  but  could  not  succeed.  He  traveled  on  to  the  fort, 
but  in  great  misery.  We  remained  here  until  the  after- 
noon of  the  loth.  Mr.  Smith's  shoulder  was  so  much 
injured  that  he  could  not  travel.  He  concluded  to  remain 
at  the  fort  a  few  days;  three  men  were  to  stay  with  him, 
and  the  rest  of  us  had  made  arrangements  for  starting, 
when  a  company  of  Oregon  emigrants  came  in  sight. 
We  awaited  their  arrival,  and  had  the  gratification  of 
hearing  from  the  States,  it  being  the  first  news  we  had 
received  since  leaving  our  homes.  A  part  of  us  remained 
a  few  hours  to  give  them  an  opportunity  of  writing  to 
their  friends;  while  five  of  the  party  took  the  road. 
In  the  evening  we  traveled  about  eight  miles,  and 
encamped. 

We  continued  for  a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles 
meeting  companies  of  from  six  to  forty  wagons,  until 
the  number  reached  five  hundred  and  forty-one  wagons, 
and  averaging  about  five  souls  to  each  wagon.  They 
were  generally  in  good  health  and  fine  spirits.  Two 
hundred  and  twelve  wagons  were  bound  for  California; 
but  I  have  since  learned  that  many  of  those  who  had 
designed  to  go  to  California  had  changed  their  desti- 
nation and  were  going  to  Oregon.216 

At  Ash  hollow  we  met  a  company  who  had  lost  many 
of  their  cattle  and  horses;  but  they  were  still  going  on. 

He  crossed  again  to  the  states,  returning  in  1862  —  in  all,  making  six  journeys 
of  this  character.  He  died  in  San  Francisco  in  1870. —  ED. 

118  The  Oregon  immigration  of  1846  was  not  as  large  as  that  of  the  previous 
year.  Apparently  reliable  estimates  make  the  number  about  two  thousand 
that  finally  reached  that  territory.  For  a  description  of  these  emigrants  see 
Francis  Parkman,  The  Oregon  Trail  (Boston,  1849,  and  later  editions),  chapters 
i,  vi,  vii.  See  also  an  itinerary  of  the  journey  by  J.  Quinn  Thornton,  Oregon 
and  California  (New  York,  1849).  Among  the  California  emigrants  of  this  year 
were  the  ill-fated  Donner  party,  many  of  whom  perished  in  the  Sierras. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer 's  journal  251 

A  short  distance  below  the  forks  of  Platte,  we  met  a 
company  of  forty-one  wagons,  under  the  command  of 
a  Mr.  Smith,  which  company  had  lost  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  head  of  cattle;  they  were  encamped,  and 
parties  were  out  hunting  cattle.217  We  remained  with 
them  a  short  time,  and  then  passed  on.  This  was  on 
the  1 8th  of  June.  Two  of  Smith's  company  had  taken 
the  back  track  in  search  of  a  band  of  their  cattle,  which 
had  traveled  nearly  forty  miles  on  the  return  to  the 
States.  Near  night,  and  after  we  had  encamped,  two 
others  of  the  company  came  up  in  search  of  the  two  men 
who  had  started  in  the  morning.  We  had  also  met  a 
boy  belonging  to  their  company,  who  had  been  in  search 
of  cattle,  but  had  found  none;  and  as  it  was  nearly 
night,  and  he  was  about  thirty  miles  from  their  camp, 
we  induced  him  to  remain  with  us  through  the  night. 

[138]  The  two  men  who  had  arrived  after  we  had 
encamped,  concluded  to  continue  their  search  until  they 
found  the  two  other  men  who  had  preceded  them.  Ac- 
cordingly after  taking  some  refreshments,  they  mounted 
and  followed  on.  Soon  after  dark,  they  came  running 
their  horses  up  to  our  camp,  one  of  them  having  behind 
him  one  of  the  men  who  had  started  out  in  the  morning. 
They  had  proceeded  from  our  camp  about  seven  or 
eight  miles,  when  rising  over  a  small  swell  in  the  prairie, 
they  discovered  a  few  head  of  cattle,  and  saw  ten  or 
twelve  Indians,  a  part  of  them  engaged  in  catching  a 
horse  which  Mr.  Trimble  (one  of  the  men  who  had 
started  out  in  the  morning)  had  been  riding,  and  some 

217  Probably  this  was  Fabritus  R.  Smith,  a  native  of  Rochester,  New  York 
(1819).  Settling  at  Salem,  Oregon,  he  was  in  the  state  legislature  of  1876, 
and  still  living  at  Salem  in  1896. —  ED. 


252  Early  Western  Travels  [¥01.30 

were  engaged  in  stripping  the  clothes  from  Mr.  Harrison, 
the  other  of  the  men.  The  men  who  had  left  our  camp 
put  whip  to  their  horses,  and  ran  towards  the  Indians, 
hallooing  and  yelling.  The  Indians  seeing  them 
approach,  and  probably  supposing  that  there  was  a 
large  company,  left  Harrison,  and  ran  under  a  bluff, 
but  they  took  the  horses  with  them. 

Harrison  put  on  his  clothes  and  mounted  behind 
Bratten,  (one  of  the  men  who  had  come  to  their  rescue,) 
stating  that  the  Indians  had  killed  Trimble,218  and  as 
none  of  the  emigrants  had  fire-arms,  the  Indians  would 
soon  return  upon  them.  They  then  came  to  our  camp. 
Harrison  stated  that  he  and  Trimble  had  traveled  nearly 
all  day  with  that  portion  of  our  party  who  had  started 
from  the  fort  in  advance  of  us,  and  near  night  had  found 
five  head  of  their  cattle,  with  which  they  were  return- 
ing to  the  company;  and  as  they  were  traveling  leisurely 
along,  about  dusk,  whilst  in  a  small  hollow,  ten  or  twelve 
Indians  came  suddenly  upon  them,  seized  his  horse, 
and  endeavored  to  get  hold  of  Trimble's  horse,  but  he 
jumped  away,  and  ran  his  horse  off.  Harrison  in  the 
mean  time  had  dismounted,  and  three  of  the  Indians 
rifled  him  of  his  clothes.  On  looking  to  see  what  had 
become  of  Trimble,  he  saw  him  riding  in  a  circuitous 
manner  towards  the  place  where  Harrison  was;  at  this 
instant  some  half  dozen  arrows  were  let  fly  at  Trimble 
by  the  Indians,  some  of  which  took  effect.  He  leaned 
a  little  forward,  his  horse  at  the  time  jumping;  at  that 
instant  the  crack  of  a  gun  was  heard,  and  Trimble  fell 

218  This  unfortunate  victim  of  the  Pawnee  Indians  was  Edward  Trimble 
of  Henry  County,  Iowa.  See  another  account  of  his  death  in  Niles1  Register, 
Ixx,  p.  341. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  'Journal  253 

from  his  horse  upon  his  face,  and  did  not  move  after- 
wards. His  horse  ran  round  for  some  minutes,  the 
Indians  trying  to  catch  him;  and  at  that  instant  Bratten 
and  his  friend  came  up. 

Several  of  our  party,  supposing  that  we  had  passed 
all  danger,  had  sold  their  arms  to  the  emigrants,  and 
we  had  but  five  [139]  rifles  in  the  company.  It  was 
quite  dark,  and  there  would  be  but  little  prospect  of 
finding  Trimble,  if  we  attempted  a  search.  We  there- 
fore remained  in  camp  until  morning.  About  eleven 
o'clock  at  night  we  dispatched  two  persons  back  to 
inform  the  company  of  what  had  occurred,  with  a 
request  that  a  force  might  be  sent,  which  would  be  able 
to  chastise  the  Indians,  if  found. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  packed  up  and  traveled  to 
the  spot  where  the  murder  had  been  committed.  We 
found  there  Trimble's  hat,  whip,  and  pocket  knife;  and 
several  large  pools  of  blood  where  he  had  fallen  from 
his  horse,  and  where  the  Indians  had  evidently  stripped 
him.  We  also  found  several  arrows,  two  of  which 
appeared  to  have  struck  him;  but  nothing  could  be 
found  of  his  body.  The  river  Platte  was  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  distant;  we  searched  the  shore  diligently, 
but  could  see  no  sign.  As  we  approached  the  spot  a 
gun  was  fired  on  a  large  island  opposite,  but  we  saw  no 
Indians.  Eight  beds  in  the  grass  near  where  the  attack 
was  made,  showed  the  manner  in  which  the  Indians 
had  been  concealed. 

It  is  highly  probable  that  the  Indians  had  driven  the 
cattle  off,  and  that  some  of  the  Indians  concealed  them- 
selves, and  as  Trimble  and  Harrison  had  no  fire-arms, 
and  carried  long  ox-whips,  they  could  be  easily  dis- 


254  Early  Western  Trawls  [Vol.  30 

tinguished  as  cattle  hunters,  and  the  Indians  knowing 
that  the  white  men  must  come  back,  selected  a  favorable 
spot,  and  attacked  them  as  above  related.  The  proba- 
bility is,  that  had  Trimble  and  Harrison  been  armed, 
they  would  not  have  been  molested. 

We  remained  upon  the  ground  until  late  in  the  after- 
noon, waiting  the  arrival  of  the  force  from  the  com- 
pany. We  finally  began  to  despair  of  their  coming, 
and  feared  that  the  two  men  whom  we  had  sent  back 
had  been  cut  off;  and  as  we  had  two  of  the  company 
with  us,  and  one  of  our  party  was  back,  we  packed  up 
and  took  the  back  track,  and  after  traveling  about  five 
miles,  we  discovered  a  band  of  their  cattle  crossing  the 
river  a  mile  above  us.  We  made  to  the  shore,  when 
the  cattle  turned  down  the  river,  in  the  direction  of  the 
head  of  the  big  island.  We  judged  that  the  Indians 
had  been  driving  the  cattle,  but  upon  our  approach 
had  left  them.  The  river  was  quite  shoal,  and  Buckley 
waded  out  and  turned  them  to  the  shore.  There  were 
in  this  band  twenty-one  head  of  work  cattle;  two  of 
them  carried  marks  of  the  arrow.  After  traveling  three 
miles  farther,  we  espied  the  party  coming  to  our  assist- 
ance, but  it  consisted  of  only  seven  persons. 

[140]  Mr.  Trimble  had  left  a  wife  and  four  children. 
She  had  sent  by  the  party  a  request  that  we  might  come 
back,  and  allow  her  and  family  to  travel  with  us  to  the 
U.  States.  We  accordingly  all  took  the  road  to  the 
company's  camp,  (driving  the  cattle)  which  we  reached 
at  day-break  on  the  morning  of  the  2oth  June.  Here 
we  remained  until  the  afternoon.  By  the  persuasion 
of  her  friends,  Mrs.  Trimble  concluded  to  continue 
her  journey  to  Oregon.  But  there  were  four  families 
who  had  lost  so  many  of  their  cattle,  that  they  were 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  "Journal  255 

unable  to  proceed  on  their  journey.  They  had  four 
wagons,  and  only  five  yoke  of  cattle,  and  some  of  them 
were  very  small.  They  wished  us  to  travel  with  them 
through  the  Pawnee  country,  as  the  Pawnees  were  the 
perpetrators  of  the  act  which  had  caused  them  so  much 
difficulty.  We  accordingly  traveled  with  them  until 
the  3oth,  when  we  left  them,  and  resumed  our  journey 
towards  home. 

On  the  morning  of  the  2ist  we  were  joined  by  Mr. 
Smith,  and  the  three  men  who  had  been  left  at  the  fort. 
We  traveled  on  rapidly  day  and  night,  barely  giving  our 
animals  time  to  rest.  The  weather  was  becoming 
warm;  the  flies  and  musquitoes  were  very  annoying. 
We  arrived  at  the  Mission  or  Agency  on  the  morning 
of  the  6th  of  July.219  Here  are  extensive  farms,  and  a 
most  delightful  country.  The  first  view  of  cultivated 
fields,  and  marks  of  civilization,  brought  simultaneous 
shouts  from  the  whole  party.  Our  troubles  and  toils 
were  all  forgotten. 

On  the  yth  of  July,  at  10  o'clock  A.  M.,  we  arrived 
at  the  St.  Joseph's  mission,  where  we  all  hoped  to  meet 
with  friends.220  We  had  been  so  long  among  savages, 

219  On  this  return  journey,  Palmer  took  the  St.  Joseph  Trail,  which  branched 
off  from  the  usual  Oregon  Trail  near  the  Little  Blue,  and  followed  the  valley 
of  the  Great  Nemaha  through  the  Iowa,  Sauk,  and  Fox  reservation  to  the 
Missouri  opposite  St.  Joseph.    An  excellent  map  of  Nebraska  and  Kansas, 
presumably  issued  in  1854,  but  lacking  name  of  place  or  publisher,  plainly 
indicates  this  road.     For  the  removal  of  these  Indians  to  the  reservation  in 
northeast  Kansas  and  southeast  Nebraska  see  our  volume  xxviii,  pp.  141,  145, 
notes  87,  89.     The  agency  was  known  as  the  Great  Nemaha;  it  was  situated 
near  the  mission  begun  (1837)  by  the  Presbyterians  under  the  direction  of  Rev. 
S.  M.  Irvin.    He  crossed  from  Missouri  with  the  Indians,  and  established  his 
mission  twenty-six  miles  west  of  St.  Joseph,  not  far  from  the  site  of  the  present 
Highland,  Doniphan  County,  Kansas.     At  the  time  of  Palmer's  visit,  Irvin 
was  being  assisted  by  William  Hamilton,  and  a  mission  school  was  in  course  of 
establishment. —  ED. 

220  For  St.  Joseph  see  our  volume  xxii,  p.  257,  note  210.     This  was  not  a 


256  Early  Western  Trawls  [Vol.  30 

that  we  resembled  them  much  in  appearance;  but 
when  attired  in  new  apparel,  and  shaved  as  became 
white  men,  we  hardly  knew  each  other.  We  had  been 
long  in  each  other's  company;  had  undergone  hard- 
ships and  privations  together;  had  passed  through 
many  dangers,  relying  upon  each  other  for  aid  and 
protection.  Attachments  had  grown  up,  which  when 
we  were  about  to  separate  were  sensibly  felt;  but  as  we 
were  yet  separated  from  our  families,  where  still  stronger 
ties  were  felt,  each  one  took  his  course,  and  in  a  few 
hours  our  party  was  scattered,  and  each  traveling  in  a 
different  direction. 

Those  of  us  who  had  mules  found  ready  sales;  but 
as  the  horses  were  much  reduced  in  flesh,  they  could  not 
be  disposed  of.  Our  horses  had  stood  the  trip  remark- 
ably well,  until  within  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of 
Missouri.  But  the  flies  [141]  had  so  annoyed  them, 
the  weather  being  warm,  and  the  grass  of  an  inferior 
quality,  that  they  had  failed  much.  I  had  five  horses; 
the  one  which  I  had  taken  from  home  was  quite  lame,  and 
I  left  him  at  St.  Joseph's;  the  other  four  were  Indian 
horses,  and  Mr.  Buckley  agreed  to  take  them  by  land, 
across  Missouri  and  Illinois,  and  home;  but  he  was 
unsuccessful,  and  arrived  with  only  one  of  them. 

I  took  steamboat  passage  to  St.  Louis221  and  Cin- 
cinnati, and  thence  by  stage  to  Laurel,  Indiana,  where 
I  arrived  on  the  23d  of  July;  having  been  gone  from 
home  one  year  three  months  and  one  week.  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  finding  my  family  enjoying  good  health. 

mission  site,  but  a  trading  post.  The  first  church  built  (1845)  was  the  Presby- 
terian, under  the  care  of  Rev.  T.  S.  Reeve. —  ED. 

221  For  a  contemporary  notice  of  Palmer's  arrival  in  St.  Louis,  see  Nties' 
Register,  Ixx,  pp.  341,  416. —  ED. 


NECESSARY  OUTFITS  FOR  EMIGRANTS 
TRAVELING  TO  OREGON 

FOR  burthen  wagons,  light  four  horse  or  heavy  two 
horse  wagons  are  the  size  commonly  used.  They  should 
be  made  of  the  best  material,  well  seasoned,  and  should 
in  all  cases  have  falling  tongues.  The  tire  should  not 
be  less  than  one  and  three  fourth  inches  wide,  but  may 
be  advantageously  used  three  inches;  two  inches,  how- 
ever, is  the  most  common  width.  In  fastening  on  the 
tire,  bolts  should  be  used  instead  of  nails;  it  should  be 
at  least  f  or  f  inches  thick.  Hub  boxes  for  the  hubs 
should  be  about  four  inches.  The  skeins  should  be  well 
steeled.  The  Mormon  fashioned  wagon  bed  is  the  best. 
They  are  usually  made  straight,  with  side  boards  about 
1 6  inches  wide,  and  a  projection  outward  of  four  inches 
on  each  side,  and  then  another  side  board  of  ten  or 
twelve  inches;  in  this  last,  set  the  bows  for  covers,  which 
should  always  be  double.  Boxes  for  carrying  effects 
should  be  so  constructed  as  to  correspond  in  height  with 
the  offset  in  the  wagon  bed,  as  this  gives  a  smooth  sur- 
face to  sleep  upon. 

Ox  teams  are  more  extensively  used  than  any  others. 
Oxen  stand  the  trip  much  better,  and  are  not  so  liable 
to  be  stolen  by  the  Indians,  and  are  much  less  trouble. 
Cattle  are  generally  allowed  to  go  at  large,  when  not 
hitched  to  the  wagons;  whilst  horses  and  mules  must 
always  be  staked  up  at  night.  Oxen  can  procure  food 
in  many  places  where  horses  cannot,  and  in  much  less 


258  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

time.  Cattle  that  have  been  raised  in  Illinois  or  Mis- 
souri, stand  the  trip  better  than  those  raised  in  Indiana 
or  Ohio;  as  they  have  been  accustomed  to  eating  the 
prairie  grass,  upon  which  they  must  wholly  rely  while 
on  the  road.  [142]  Great  care  should  be  taken  in 
selecting  cattle;  they  should  be  from  four  to  six  years 
old,  tight  and  heavy  made. 

For  those  who  fit  out  but  one  wagon,  it  is  not  safe  to 
start  with  less  than  four  yoke  of  oxen,  as  they  are  liable 
to  get  lame,  have  sore  necks,  or  to  stray  away.  One 
team  thus  fitted  up  may  start  from  Missouri  with  twenty- 
five  hundred  pounds  and  as  each  day's  rations  make  the 
load  that  much  lighter,  before  they  reach  any  rough 
road,  their  loading  is  much  reduced.  Persons  should 
recollect  that  every  thing  in  the  outfit  should  be  as  light 
as  the  required  strength  will  permit;  no  useless  trum- 
pery should  be  taken.  The  loading  should  consist  of 
provisions  and  apparel,  a  necessary  supply  of  cooking 
fixtures,  a  few  tools,  &c.  No  great  speculation  can  be 
made  in  buying  cattle  and  driving  them  through  to  sell; 
but  as  the  prices  of  oxen  and  cows  are  much  higher  in 
Oregon  than  in  the  States,  nothing  is  lost  in  having  a 
good  supply  of  them,  which  will  enable  the  emigrant 
to  wagon  through  many  articles  that  are  difficult  to  be 
obtained  in  Oregon.  Each  family  should  have  a  few 
cows,  as  the  milk  can  be  used  the  entire  route,  and 
they  are  often  convenient  to  put  to  the  wagon  to  relieve 
oxen.  They  should  be  so  selected  that  portions  of  them 
would  come  in  fresh  upon  the  road.  Sheep  can  also 
be  advantageously  driven.  American  horses  and  mares 
always  command  high  prices,  and  with  careful  usage 
can  be  taken  through;  but  if  used  to  wagons  or  carriages, 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  259 

their  loading  should  be  light.  Each  family  should  be 
provided  with  a  sheet-iron  stove,  with  boiler;  a  plat- 
form can  easily  be  constructed  for  carrying  it  at  the 
hind  end  of  the  wagon;  and  as  it  is  frequently  quite 
windy,  and  there  is  often  a  scarcity  of  wood,  the  stove 
is  very  convenient.  Each  family  should  also  be  pro- 
vided with  a  tent,  and  to  it  should  be  attached  good 
strong  cords  to  fasten  it  down. 

The  cooking  fixtures  generally  used  are  of  sheet  iron; 
a  dutch  oven  and  skillet  of  cast  metal  are  very  essential. 
Plates,  cups,  &c.,  should  be  of  tin  ware,  as  queens- ware 
is  much  heavier  and  liable  to  break,  and  consumes  much 
time  in  packing  up.  A  reflector  is  sometimes  very  use- 
ful. Families  should  each  have  two  churns,  one  for 
carrying  sweet  and  one  for  sour  milk.  They  should 
also  have  one  eight  or  ten  gallon  keg  for  carrying  water, 
one  axe,  one  shovel,  two  or  three  augers,  one  hand  saw, 
and  if  a  farmer  he  should  be  provided  with  one  cross- 
cut saw  and  a  few  plough  moulds,  as  it  is  difficult  getting 
such  articles.  When  I  left  the  country,  ploughs  cost 
from  twenty-five  to  forty  dollars  each.  A  good  supply 
of  ropes  for  [143]  tying  up  horses  and  catching  cattle, 
should  also  be  taken.  Every  person  should  be  well 
supplied  with  boots  and  shoes,  and  in  fact  with  every 
kind  of  clothing.  It  is  also  well  to  be  supplied  with  at 
least  one  feather  bed,  and  a  good  assortment  of  bedding. 
There  are  no  tame  geese  in  the  country,  but  an  abun- 
dance of  wild  ones;  yet  it  is  difficult  procuring  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  feathers  for  a  bed.  The  Muscovy  is  the  only 
tame  duck  in  the  country. 

Each  male  person  should  have  at  least  one  rifle  gun, 
and  a  shot  gun  is  also  very  useful  for  wild  fowl  and  small 


26 o  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

game,  of  which  there  is  an  abundance.  The  best  sized 
calibre  for  the  mountains  is  from  thirty-two  to  fifty-six 
to  the  pound;  but  one  of  from  sixty  to  eighty,  or  even 
less,  is  best  when  in  the  lower  settlements.  The  buffalo 
seldom  range  beyond  the  South  Pass,  and  never  west 
of  Green  river.  The  larger  game  are  elk,  deer,  ante- 
lope, mountain  sheep  or  bighorn,  and  bear.  The  small 
game  are  hare,  rabbit,  grouse,  sage  hen,  pheasant,  quail, 
&c.  A  good  supply  of  ammunition  is  essential. 

In  laying  in  a  supply  of  provisions  for  the  journey, 
persons  will  doubtless  be  governed,  in  some  degree,  by 
their  means;  but  there  are  a  few  essentials  that  all  will 
require. 

For  each  adult,  there  should  be  two  hundred  pounds 
of  flour,  thirty  pounds  of  pilot  bread,  seventy-five  pounds 
of  bacon,  ten  pounds  of  rice,  five  pounds  of  coffee, 
two  pounds  of  tea,  twenty-five  pounds  of  sugar,  half 
a  bushel  of  dried  beans,  one  bushel  of  dried  fruit,  two 
pounds  of  saleratus,  ten  pounds  of  salt,  half  a  bushel  of 
corn  meal;  and  it  is  well  to  have  a  half  bushel  of  corn, 
parched  and  ground;  a  small  keg  of  vinegar  should  also 
be  taken.  To  the  above  may  be  added  as  many  good 
things  as  the  means  of  the  person  will  enable  him  to 
carry;  for  whatever  is  good  at  home,  is  none  the  less 
so  on  the  road.  The  above  will  be  ample  for  the  journey; 
but  should  an  additional  quantity  be  taken,  it  can  readily 
be  disposed  of  in  the  mountains  and  at  good  prices,  not 
for  cash,  but  for  robes,  dressed  skins,  buckskin  pants, 
moccasins,  &c.  It  is  also  well  for  families  to  be  provided 
with  medicines.  It  is  seldom  however,  that  emigrants 
are  sick;  but  sometimes  eating  too  freely  of  fresh  buffalo 
meat  causes  diarrhcea,  and  unless  it  be  checked  soon 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  261 

prostrates  the  individual,  and  leaves  him  a  fit  subject 
for  disease. 

The  time  usually  occupied  in  making  the  trip  from 
Missouri  to  Oregon  city  is  about  five  months;  but  with 
the  aid  of  a  person  who  has  traveled  the  route  with  an 
emigrating  company  the  trip  can  be  performed  in  about 
four  months. 

[144]  Much  injury  is  done  to  teams  in  racing  them, 
endeavoring  to  pass  each  other.  Emigrants  should 
make  an  every  day  business  of  traveling  —  resting  upon 
the  same  ground  two  nights  is  not  good  policy,  as  the 
teams  are  likely  to  ramble  too  far.  Getting  into  large 
companies  should  be  avoided,  as  they  are  necessarily 
compelled  to  move  more  tardily.  From  ten  to  twenty- 
five  wagons  is  a  sufficient  number  to  travel  with  safety. 
The  advance  and  rear  companies  should  not  be  less 
than  twenty;  but  between,  it  may  be  safe  to  go  with 
six.  The  Indians  are  very  annoying  on  account  of 
their  thieving  propensities,  but  if  well  watched,  they 
would  seldom  put  them  into  practice.  Persons  should 
always  avoid  rambling  far  from  camp  unarmed,  or  in 
too  small  parties;  Indians  will  sometimes  seek  such 
opportunities  to  rob  a  man  of  what  little  effects  he  has 
about  him;  and  if  he  attempts  to  get  away  from  them 
with  his  property,  they  will  sometimes  shoot  him. 

There  are  several  points  along  the  Missouri  where 
emigrants  have  been  in  the  practice  of  fitting  out.  Of 
these  Independence,  St.  Joseph,  and  Council  Bluffs, 
are  the  most  noted.  For  those  emigrating  from  Ohio, 
Indiana,  Illinois  and  northern  Missouri,  Iowa  and 
Michigan,  I  think  St.  Joseph  the  best  point;  as  by  tak- 
ing that  route  the  crossing  of  several  streams  (which 


262  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

at  the  early  season  we  travel  are  sometimes  very  high) 
is  avoided.  Outfits  may  be  had  at  this  point,  as  readily 
as  at  any  other  along  the  river.  Work  cattle  can  be 
bought  in  its  vicinity  for  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  dollars 
per  yoke,  cows,  horses,  &c.,  equally  cheap. 

Emigrants  should  endeavor  to  arrive  at  St.  Joseph 
early  in  April,  so  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  take  up  the 
line  of  march  by  the  middle  of  April.  Companies,  how- 
ever, have  often  started  as  late  as  the  tenth  of  May; 
but  in  such  cases  they  seldom  arrive  in  Oregon  until 
after  the  rainy  season  commences  in  the  Cascade  range 
of  mountains. 

Those  residing  in  northern  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
Michigan,  &c.,  who  contemplate  traveling  by  land  to 
the  place  of  rendezvous,  should  start  in  time  to  give 
their  teams  at  least  ten  days  rest.  Ox  teams,  after 
traveling  four  or  five  hundred  miles  in  the  states,  at  that 
season  of  the  year,  would  be  unfit  to  perform  a  journey 
across  the  mountains;  but  doubtless  they  might  be 
exchanged  for  others,  at  or  near  the  rendezvous. 

Farmers  would  do  well  to  take  along  a  good  supply 
of  horse  gears.  Mechanics  should  take  such  tools  as 
are  easily  carried;  as  there  are  but  few  in  the  country, 
and  those  are  held  at  exorbitant  [145]  prices.  Every 
family  should  lay  in  a  good  supply  of  school  books  for 
their  children. 

In  case  of  an  emergency,  flour  can  be  bought  at  Fort 
Hall,  and  Fort  Bois,  two  trading  posts  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  at  twenty  dollars  per  hundred;  and  by 
forwarding  word  to  Spalding's  mission,  on  the  Koos- 
kooskee,  they  will  pack  out  flour  to  Fort  Bois,  at  ten 
dollars  per  hundred,  and  to  the  Grand  Round  at  eight 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  263 

dollars,  and  will  take  in  exchange  dry  goods,  groceries, 
&c.;  but  at  Forts  Hall  and  Bois,  the  company  will  take 
nothing  in  payment  but  cash  or  cattle.  At  Dr.  Whit- 
man's station,  flour  can  be  bought  at  five  dollars  per 
hundred,  corn  meal  at  four  dollars,  beef  at  six  and 
seven  cents  per  pound,  potatoes,  fifty  cents  per  bushel. 
It  is  proper  to  observe  that  the  flour  at  Spalding's  and 
Whitman's  stations  will  be  unbolted.  Emigrants  how- 
ever, should  be  cautious,  and  lay  in  a  sufficient  supply 
to  last  them  through. 


WORDS  USED  IN  THE  CHINOOK  JARGON 

THIS  is  a  tongue  spoken  by  a  few  in  each  of  the  tribes 
residing  in  the  middle  and  lower  divisions  of  Oregon. 
It  is  also  used  by  the  French,  and  nearly  all  the  old 
settlers  in  the  country. 


Aach 

Ekik 

Hit-e-hu 

Sister 

Fish-hook 

Swop,  exchange 

Aha 

Elitah 

Hoi 

Yes 

Slave 

Drag,  or  pull 

Alka 
Future,  by  and  by 

Esick 
Paddle 

Hips 
First 

Alta 
Present,  now 

Esil 
Corn 

Ith-lu-el,  or  Itud 
Meat,  flesh 

Ala 
I  wonder 

Geleech 
Grease 

I-yak 
Quick,  or  hurry 

Ankote 

Halo 

Il-a-he 

Past  time 

None 

Soil,  dirt 

Chawko 

Hankachim 

Ichwet 

Come 

Handkerchief 

Bear 

Chee 

Hous 

Is-kum 

New 

House 

Take 

Chinkamin 

How 

In-a-ti 

Iron,  chain 

Let  us 

Overdress 

Chuck 

Hoel-hoel 

Ith-lu-k-ma 

Water 

Mouse 

Gamble 

Deob 
Satan 

High-you 
Quantity,  many 

I-wa 
Beaver 

1845-1846] 


Palmer's  journal 


265 


Delie 
Dry 

High-you-k-wah 
Ring 

Ips-wet 
Hide 

Ekih 

Hul-u-e-ma 

Ik-ta 

Brother-in-law 

Strange,  different 

What 

Kah 
Where 

K-wathen 
Bell 

Kilaps 
Turn  over 

K-u-ten 
Horse 

K-macks 
Dog 

Klips 
Upset 

Kaw-lo-ke-lo 
Goose 

Klugh 
Split,  or  Plough 

Ko-el 
Cold 

Ka-luck 
Swan 

Ko-pet 
Done,  finished 

Kap-wah 
Alike 

K-puet 
Needle 

Kop-po 
Older  brother 

Kon-a-maxt 
Both 

Kot-suck 

Kow 

Kla-hum 

Middle 

Is  to  tie 

Good-bye 

Kap-o 
Coat 

K-wat 
Hit 

Kla-hi-you 
How  do  you  do 

Ka-nim 
Canoe 

Kop-shut 
Broken 

Kaw-a-nassim 
Always 

Ka-ta 

Ko 

Kla-ha-na 

Why 

Arrived 

Out 

Kap-su-alla 
Theft,  steal 

Kim-to 
Behind 

Klim-in-wit 
A  falsehood 

K-liten 
Lead 

Kollo 
Fence 

Krap-po 
Toad 

Kaw-kaw 

Kutt 

Klose 

Crow 

Hard 

Good 

Klat-a-wah 

Klimin 

Klas-ko 

Go,  Walk 

Fine 

Them,  those 

266 


Early  Western  Travels 


[Vol.  30 


Kul-a-kutta 

Kle-il 

Ka-so 

Fowl 

Black 

Rum 

Kum-tux 

KnOW,  or  understand 

Ka-was 
Afraid 

Ko-pa 
There 

Ke-a-wak 

Kom-suck 

Kit-lo 

Love 

Beads 

Kettle 

Ka-wah-we 

Ko-ko-well 

Klone-ass 

All 

Eel 

I  do  not  understand 

Klow-e-wah 
Slow 

Klaps 
Find 

Klop-sta 
Who 

K-wallen 

Kow-ne-aw 

Klouch-man 

The  ear 

How  many 

Female 

Kee-kool 

La-sel 

Le-lu 

Down 

Saddle 

Panther 

Lepo-lo 
Pan 

Le-lo-im 
Sharp 

Le-pul 
Chickens 

Le-por-shet 
Fork 

Le-paim 
Apple 

Lecorset 
Trunk 

Lehash 
Axe 

La-bush 
Mouth 

Laport 
Door 

Leg-win 
Saw 

Le-da 
Teeth 

Le-pip 
Pipe 

Lima 

Le-ku 

Lo-lo 

The  hand 

Neck 

Carry,  or  tote 

Lita 
Head 

Le-mora 
Wild 

Leb-ya 
Old  woman 

Le-pe-a 
Feet 

Lashimney 
Chimney 

La-lure 
Hoe 

Lo-ma-las 
Molasses 

Lemitten 
Mitten 

La-cope 
White 

1845-1846] 


Palmer  s  Journal 


267 


Lemon-to 

La-ha-la 

La-cre-me 

Sheep 

Feel 

Yellow 

Lowest 

Le-le 

Mas-a-tro 

Jacket,  or  vest 

A  long  time 

Bad 

La-ep 
Rope 
Lep-lash 
Boards 
Lep-wa 
Peas 

Las-well 
Silk 
La-tem 
Table 
Lep-o-lip 
Boil 

Met-lite 
Residence,  Sitting 
down,  &c. 

Mal-ha-na 
As,  in  the  river;  or, 
push  off  the  boat 

Lep-well 
Skillet 

Le-sit-well 
Stars 

Man 
Male 

La-win 

Le-mit-rem 

Mow-etch 

Oats 

Medicine 

Deer 

La-ram 

Le-shaw 

Mu-lack 

Oar,  for  boats 

Shoe 

Elk 

Le-wash 

Le-sack 

Muse-a-muse 

Snow 

Sack,  or  bag 

Cattle 

Lemonti 
Mountain 

Le-quim 
White  bear 

Me-si-ka 
Plural  of  you 

Muck-a-muck 
Provisions,  eat 

O-ep-can 
Basket 

Papo 
Father 

Musket 
Rifle,  or  gun 

O-ep-in-pin 
Skunk 

PU 
Red 

Moon 

O-e-lUe 

Pe-chi 

Month 

Berries 

Green 

Mo-kah 
Buy 

O-e-pick 
Both 

Pat-le 
Full 

Mim-a-loosheb 

O-elk 

Poo 

Die,  or  dead 

Snake 

Shoot 

268 


Early  Western  Travels 


[Vol.  30 


Mal-hu-ale 

Back 

Mi-ka 

You 

Ni-ka 

I,  or  me 

Nan-ach 

Look,  or  see 

Na-ha 

Mother 

New-ha 

Let 

Now-it-k 

Yes,  certainly 

Ne-si-ka 

We,  us 

Nein 

Name 

O-es-km 

Caps 

Oel-man 

Old 

O-pet-sa 

Knife 

O-pes-wa 

Wonder,astonishment  Boat 

Ow  Pa-pa 

Brother  Paper 

Sec-a-lukes  Shot 

Pantaloons  Shot 


O-lo 

Hungry 

Oel-hin 

Seal 

O-koke 

This,  or  that 

Pi-yah 

Fire 

Pos-ton 

Americans 

Pee 

And 

Pus 

If 

Puss 

Cat 

Pish-hash 

Polecat 

Pos-seas 

Blanket 

Pot-latch 

Give 

Pole-ally 

Powder 

Po-et 


Pe-teck 

The  world 

Pilton 

Foolish 

Pal-a-k-lo 

Night 

Pes-hocks 

Thickety 

Pis-say-ukes 

French 

Quack-quack 

Duck 

Si-wash 

Indians 

Swas 

Rain 

Sah-lee 

High 

Stick 

Wood 

Seck-um 

Swim 

Si-yaw 

Far 

Sap-a-lil 

Flour 

Su-ga 

Sugar 

To-lo 

Win,  or  gain 


1845-1846] 


Palmer  s  Journal 


269 


Sap-a-pul 
Hat 

Sup-ner 
Jump 

Te-ma-has 
Poison 

Sto-en 
Rock 

Til-a-kum 
People 

Ti-pee 
An  ornament 

SU 
Shirting 

Tit-the-ko-ep 
Cut 

Te-kah 
Want 

Sko-kum 

Turn-turn 

Till 

Strong,  stout 

The  heart 

Heavy,  or  tired 

See-pee 
To  miss 

Te-o-wit 
Leg 

Toc-ta 
Doctor 

See-ah-os-ti 
Face,  or  eyes 

Tum-pe-lo 
Back 

Wah-wah 
Talk,  conversation 

Sam-mon 

Tam-o-lack 

Wake 

Fish 

Barrel 

No,  not 

Sto-gon 
Sturgeon 

Ti-ye 
Master,  or  chief 

Wap-a-to 
Potato 

Son-dra 

Tes-um 

Win 

Roan 

Pretty 

Wind 

Salt 

To-lo-bus 

Warn 

Salt 

Wolf 

Warm 

Shu-es 
Shoes 

Te-ko-ep 
White 

Wetch 
More 

Sun 

Te-mo-lo 

Ya-ka 

Sun,  or  day 

To-morrow 

Him,  she,  it 

Silk-um 

Tu-lusk 

Yaw-wah 

Half,  or  a  part 

Milk 

Yonder 

Smo-ek 
Smoke 

Tip-so 
Grass 

Yok-sa 
Hair 

Sul-luks 

Tum-tuk 

Ya-ha-la 

Mad,  angry 

Water-falls 

Name 

2/0 


Early  Western  Travels 


[Vol.  30 


Six 

Ton-tle-ke 

Yult-cut 

Friends 

Yesterday 

Long 

Sick 

T-sit-still 

You-till 

Sick,  or  sore 

Buttons,  or  tacks 

Glad,  proud 

Shut 

Tee-see 

Shirt 

Sweet 

CHINOOK  MODE  OF  COMPUTING  NUMBERS 


Iht i 

Makst 2 

Klone 3 

Lakst 4 

K-win-nim 5 

Ta-hum 6 

Sina-maxt 7 

Sow-skins 8 

K-wi-etst 9 

Tath-la-ham 10 

Dilo-pe-iht n 

Dilo-p-maxt 12 

Dilo-p-klone 13 

Dilo-p-lakst 14 

Dilo-p-k-winnim  .     .     .     .15 
DUo-p-ta-hum       .     .     .     .16 


Dilo-p-sin-a-maxt     .     .  17 

Dilo-p-sow-skins      .     .     .  18 

Dilo-p-k-wi-etst  .     .     .     .  19 

Tath-la-hun  makst  ...  20 

Tath-la-hun  klone    ...  30 

Tath-la-hun  lakst     ...  40 

Tath-la-hun  k-win-ma  .     .  50 

Tath-la-hun  ta-hum       .     .  60 

Tath-la-hun  sin-a-maxt       .  70 

Tath-la-hun  sow-skins  .     .  80 

Tath-la-hun  k-wi-etst     .      .  90 

Tak-o-mo-nuxt    ....  100 

Tak-o-mo-maxt  ....  200 

Tak-o-mo-nuxt  klone      .      .  300 

Tak-o-mo-nuxt  lakst      .     .  400 

Tak-o-mo-nuxt  k-win-nim  .  500 


WORDS  USED  IN  THE  NEZ  PERCE  LANGUAGE 


Hama 

Talonot 

Ipalikt 

Man 

Ox 

Clouds 

Ami 

Talohin 

Wakit 

Women 

Bull 

Rain 

Haswal 

Kulkulal 

Hiwakasha 

Boy 

Calf 

Rains 

Pitin 

Shikam 

Maka 

Girl 

Horse 

Snow 

Silu 

Tilipa 

Hatia 

Eye 

Fox 

Wind 

Huku 

Tahspul 

Yakas 

Hair 

Beaver 

Hot 

Ipsus 

Kelash 

Yamits 

Hand 

Otter 

Cold 

Ahwa 

Hisamtucks 

Tiputput 

Feet 

Sun 

Warm 

Simusimu 

Hayaksa 

Silakt 

Black 

Is  hungry 

Body 

Ilpilp 

Husus 

Katnanas 

Red 

Head 

Salt 

Yosyos 

Kohalh 

Haya 

Gray 

Cow 

Salmon-trout 

Shukuishukui 

Kaih 

Wahwahlam 

Brown 

Colt 

Trout 

Kohatu 

Highwayahwasa 

Hat 

Short 

Snows 

Weak 

2/2 


Early  Western  Travels 


[Vol.  30 


Kohat 

Haihai 

Wals 

Long 

White 

Knife 

Kalinin 

Ashtai 

Ilatama 

Crooked 

Fork 

Is  blind 

Tukuh 

Ashtai 

Lakailakai 

Straight 

Awl 

Gentle 

Silpsilp 

Wawianas 

Shiau 

Money 

Axe 

Skittish 

Taiitaii 

Kimstam 

Waiat 

Flat 

Near 

Far 

Hamoihamoi 

Maksmaks 

Shakinkash 

Soft 

Yellow 

Saw 

Sisyukas 

Shapikash 

Wishan 

Sugar 

File 

Poor 

Pishakas 

Takai 

Ilahui 

Bitter 

Blanket 

Many 

Komain 

Sham 

Milas 

Sickness 

Coat 

Few 

Hickomaisa 

Ahwa 

A  nimikinikai 

Is  sick 

Foot 

Below 

Aluin 

Silpsilp 

Tokmal 

Is  lame 

Round 

Hat 

Wakaas 

Tohon 

Huwialatus 

Is  well 

Pantaloons 

Weary 

Tinukin 

Ilapkit 

A  hat 

Is  dead 

Shoe 

Down 

Hiswesa 

Hikai 

Akamkinikai 

Is  cold 

Kettle 

Above 

Yahet 

Sham 

Koko 

Neck 

Shirt 

Raven 

1845-1846] 


Palmer's  Journal 


273 


Nahso 

Laka 

Houtat 

Salmon 

Pine 

Goose 

Tushti 

Isa 

Houtat 

Up 

Mother 

Geese 

Atim 
Arm 

Nisu 
Child 

Yaya 
Swan 

Matsayee 
Ear 

Mamaias 
Children 

Yatin 
Crane 

Piama 
Brothers 

Hikai 
Pail 

Paps 
Fir,  (tree) 

Kelah 
Sturgeon 

Sishnim 
Thorns 

Kopkop 
Cottonwood 

Wayu 
Leg 

Sikstua 
Friend 

With 
Alder 

Kupkup 
Back 

Lantuama 
Friends 

Tahs 
Willows 

Timina 

Walatakai 

Tims 

Heart 

Pan 

Cherry 

Sho 

Kuish 

Satahswakkus 

Spoon 

Risk 

Corn 

Kahno 

Shushai 

Paks 

Prairie-hen 

Grass 

Wheat 

Huhui 
Shoulder 

Suyam 
Sucker 

Lapatat 
Potatoes 

Pisht 
Father 

Hashu 
Eel 

Papa 
A  spring 

Walpilkash 
Auger 

Shakantai 
Eagle 

Wawahp 
Spring  (season) 

Katkat 

Sholoshah 

Tiam 

Duck 

Fish-hawk 

Summer 

274 


Early  Western  Travels 


[Vol.  30 


Askap 

Washwashno 

Shahnim 

Brother 

Hen 

Fall 

Asmatan 

Koun 

Anim 

Sisters 

Dove 

Winter 

Kinis 

Aa 

Pelush 

Sister 

Crow 

Gooseberry 

Kikaya 

Timanawat 

Yaka 

Serviceberry 

A  writer 

Black  bear 

Kahas 

Sapaliknawat 

Kemo 

Milk 

A  labourer 

Old  man 

Katamnawakno 

Hania 

Tahat 

Peas 

Made 

Young  man 

Hahushwakus 

Hanishaka 

Otwai 

Green 

Have  made 

Old  woman 

Inina 

Hanitatasha 

Timai 

House 

Will  make 

Young  woman 

Sanitwakus 

Hanikika 

Piskas 

Parsnips 

Made  going 

Father-in-law 

Initain 

Hanisna 

Pishas 

For  a  house 

Made  coming 

Son-in-law 

Initpa 

//wa  /*am  aisha 

Siwako 

To  the  house 

Make  for  him 

Mother-in-law 

Initkinai 

Hanitasa 

Siwaka 

From  the  house 

Go  and  make 

Daughter-in-law 

Initrim 

Tas&  &awa 

Inaya 

House  only 

Good  man 

Brother-in-law 

Ininm 

Task  timina 

Siks 

Of  a  house 

Good  heart 

Sister-in-law 

Initki 

Task  shikam 

Pimh 

By  a  house 

Good  horse 

Step-father 

1845-1846] 


Palmer  s  Journal 


275 


Initph 

To  a  house 

Haniai 

Not  made 

Haniawat 

A  mechanic 

Hanishimai 

Not  a  mechanic 

Tamtainat 

Preacher 

Himtakewat 

Teacher 

Tamiawat 

Trader 

Mahsham 

Mountain 

Kuhsin 

Hill 

Tahpam 

Plain 

Hantikam 

Bough 

Tepitepit 

Smooth 

Wilpwilp 

Round 

Pohol 

Valley 

Tasham 

Ridge 


Tiskan  shikam 
Fat  horse 
Hamtis  shikam 
Fast  horse 
Kapskaps  shikam 
Strong  horse 
Sininish  shikam 
Lazy  horse 
Kapsis  shikam 
Bad  horse 
Haihai  shikam 
White  horse 
Hahas 
Gray  bear 
Hitkakokaiko 
He  gallops 
Hitksilsilsa 
He  trots 
Himilmilisha 
He  paces 
Hiwalakaiks 
He  walks 
Hishaulakiks 
He  runs 
Titishka  shikam 
Fat  horses 
Maksmaks  shikam 
Sorrel  horse 
Hihaihai  shikam 
White  horse 


Kaka 

Step-mother 

Lemakas 

Deep 

Pakas 

Shallow 

Mul 

Rapids 

Amshah 

Breaker 

Watas 

Land 

Pishwai 

Stones 

Watoikash 

It  is  fordable 

Hatsu  hiyaniksa 

Wood  is  floating 

Hiwalasa 

The  water  runs 

Hahanwasam 

The  day  is  dawning 

Wako  hikaaun 

It  is  daylight  now 

Hitinatra  hisamtuks 

The  sun  is  rising 

Naks  halaps 

One  day 

Hikulawitsa 

It  is  evening 


276 


Early  Western  Travels 


[Vol.  30 


Iwatam 
Lake 
Tikim 
Falls 

Hitkawisha 
He  falls 
Kohat  tawish 
Long  horn 
Wishan  kokalk 
Poor  ox 
Lilkailakikokal 
Gentle  cows 
Hiwasasha 
He  rides 


Tamsilps  shikam 

Spotted  horse 

Tilamselp  shikam 

Spotted  horses 

Minsahsminko 

Read 

Kokalh 

Cattle 

Hiwaliksa 

The  river  is  rising 

Hitaausa 

The  river  is  falling 

Hiwalasa 

The  water  runs 


Kaaun 
Daylight 
Hatsu  hialika 
The  wood  is  lodged 
Kia  waaiikshi 
We  are  crossing 
Ka  apapinmiks 
Let  us  sleep 
Ka  apahips 
Let  us  eat 
Ka  apakus 
Let  us  go 
Ka  apasklin 
Let  us  go  back 


NEZ  PERCE  MODE  OF  COMPUTING  NUMBERS 


Naks i 

Lapit 2 

MUat 3 

Pilapt 4 

Pahat 5 

Wilaks 6 

Wina.pt 7 

Wimatat 8 

Kuis     .......      9 

Putimpt 10 

Putimpt  wah  naks  .  .  .11 
wah  lapit  .  ,  .12 
wah  mitat  .  .  .13 
.Putimpt  wah  pilapt  .  .  .14 
Putimpt  wah  pahat  .  .  .15 
Putimpt  wah  wttaks  .  .  .16 
Putimpt  winapt  .  .  .  .17 


18 


Putimpt  wah  wimatat    . 

Putimpt  wah  kuis    .      .      .  19 

Laptit 20 

Laptit  wah  naks       ...  21 

Mitaptit 30 

Piloptit     .      .      .      ..    .      .  40 

Pakaptit 50 

Wilaksaptit 60 

Winaptit 70 

Wimitaptit 80 

Kuisaptit 90 

Putaptit 100 

Laposhus 200 

Mitoshus 300 

Pelaposhus 400 

Pakoshus 500 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  FROM  INDEPENDENCE, 

MISSOURI;   AND   ST.    JOSEPH,   TO 

OREGON  CITY,  IN  OREGON 

TERRITORY 

MILES 

FROM  Independence  to  Rendezvous       .         .         .  20 

"      Rendezvous  to  Elm  Grove           .         .         .  13 

"      Elm  Grove  to  Walkarusha          .         .         .  20 

"      Walkarusha  to  crossing  of  Kansas  river        .  28 

"      Kansas  to  crossing  of  Turkey  creek     .         .  14 

"      Turkey  creek  to  Little  Vermilion          .         .  24 
"      Little  Vermilion  to  branch  of  same      .         .12 

"      To  Big  Vermilion,  with  intermediate  camps .  29 

"      Vermilion  to  Lee's  branch  ....  8 

"      Lee's  branch  to  Big  Blue   ....  6 
"      Big  Blue  to  the  junction  with  St.  Joseph's 

trail 10 

The  distance  from  St.  Joseph,  Missouri,  to  the 
Independence  trail,  striking  it  ten  miles  west  of  Blue 
river,  is  about  one  hundred  miles.     Good  camps 
can  be  had  from  eight  to  fifteen  miles  apart. 
From  forks  of  road  as  above,  to  Big  Sandy,  strik- 
ing it  near  its  junction  with  the  Republi- 
can Fork  of  Blue  river,  with  intermediate 

camps    .         ......  42 

"     Sandy  to  Republican  fork  of  Blue  river        .  18 

"      up  Republican  fork,  with  good  camps.         .  53 

"      Republican  fork  to  Big  Platte     .  20 

"      up  Big  Platte  to  the  crossing  of  South  fork  .  120 


278                    Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

MILES 

Camps  can  be  had  at  suitable  distances,  with 
wood  for  fuel  upon  the  islands. 

From  lower  to  upper  crossings  of  South  fork  .      45 

There  is  a  road  on  each  side  of  the  river,  and  but 
little  choice  in  them. 

From  South  to  North  fork,  at  Ash  Hollow    .  .20 

"     Ash  Hollow  to  opposite  Solitary  Tower,  on 

Little  creek    .         .         .         .         .  .42 

"     Little  creek  to  opposite  Chimney  rock  .      16 

"      Chimney  Rock  to  where  the  road  leaves  the 

River     .         .         .         .         .         .  .      15 

"     thence  to  Scott's  Bluffs  (Good  Spring)  .      10 

"     Scott's  Bluffs  to  Horse  creek        .         .  .12 

"      Horse  creek  to  Fort  Laramie       .  .24 

"     Laramie  to  Dry  Branch  and  Big  Spring  .       12 

"     to  Bitter  Cottonwood          ...         .  .10 

To  Willow  Branch      .         .       ..         .         .  .        7 

"    Horse  Shoe  Creek          ,         .         .         .  .         7 

"    River 8 

Thence  to  where  the  Road  leaves  the  River  .  .        8 

To  Big  Timber  creek  .         «         .•  .      •  .       .  .16 

"  Marble  creek         .         .         .         .         .  .        5 

"  Mike's-head  creek          .         .         .  .       12 

"  the  River,  crossing  several  streams .         .  10 

"  Deer  creek  .         .         .         .                  .  .        6 

Thence  to  crossing  of  North  fork  of  Platte    .  .      25 

From  crossing  of  Platte  to  Spring         .         .  .10 

Thence  to  Mineral  Springs  (bad  camp)         .  .        8 

"     Willow  Spring  (good  camp)      ,-  *        .  .        5 

"     Independence  Rock  on  Sweet  Water   »  .       22 

"     Devil's  Gate     .          .      •  .         .       ,.  .        5 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  279 

MILES 

Up  Sweet  Water  to  South  Pass  (good  camps)         .     104 
Over  the  dividing  ridge  to  Pacific  Spring,  the  waters 

of  which  run  into  Green  river  ...        5 

HERE,  HAIL  OREGON  ! 
From  Spring  to  Little  Sandy        ....       20 

Here  the  road  forks,  the  southern  trail  going  by 
way  of  Bridger's  Old  Fort,  and  thence  to  Bear 
river.  The  northern  (which  is  two  and  a  half  days 
less  driving)  strikes  Green  river  about  forty  miles 
above  the  southern  trail;  I  will  give  the  distance 
on  both  routes. 

The  northern  route,  from  Little  Sandy  to  Big  Sandy        6 
From  Big  Sandy  to  Green  river   ....      40 

(No  water  and  but  little  grass  between.) 
"     thence  to  Bear  river,  (with  good  camps,)      .      64 
On  the  southern  route :  — 

From  Little  Sandy  to  Big  Sandy  .  .  .  .  12 
Down  Big  Sandy  to  Green  river  .  .  .  ,  24 
Cross  Green  river  and  down  .  .  .  .  8 
From  Green  river  to  Black's  fork  .  .  *  15 
Up  Black's  fork  to  Bridger's  Old  Fort .  v  .  30 
From  Old  Fort  to  Little  Muddy  (poor  camp)  .  8 
"  thence  to  Big  Muddy  (poor  camp)  .  .  10 
Up  Big  Muddy  to  the  dividing  ridge  (good  camp 

near  head  of  creek)         .         .         .         -32 

Over  dividing  ridge  to  spring       .         .         .         .      10 

From  spring  to  camp  on  Bear  river      ...        6 

"     thence  to  where  the  northern  trail  comes  in  .      10 

To  Smith's  fork  three  miles,  to  Narrows  four  miles, 

and  thence  to  crossing  of  Bear  river  three 

miles   .  10 


280  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

MILES 

Here  the  road  forks;  the  nearest  is  to  follow  up 
the  creek  two  miles,  cross  and  then  go  over  the  ridge 
five  miles  to  foot  of  Big  Hill,  where  the  roads  again 
unite.         .         ...         .         .         .         .        7 

The  other  road  crosses  the  river,  follows  up  the 
bottom  about  ten  miles,  re-crosses  and  is  then  about 
seven  miles  to  junction. 

From  foot  of  Big  Hill,  to  top  of  ridge  is  about       .        3 
"     thence  to  Big  Timber  on  Bear  river     .         .        4 
Here  is  a  company  of  American  traders  and  trappers 
From  Big  Timber  to  Soda  Springs        .         .        ".       36 
"     Spring  to  Soda  Pool  seven  miles,  to  Spring 

Branch  three        .  ;         .         .         .         .10 

"     Spring  to  Running  Branch          ...        9 
"     thence  to  foot  of  hill  .         .        ..         .         .        8 

"     foot  of  hill  over  dividing  ridge  and  down  to 

camp     .         .         .         .         .         .         .12 

"     thence  to  Lewis's  river  bottom  at  Springs     .       18 
and  to  Fort  Hall        .....        5 

"     Fort  Hall  to  the  crossing  of  Portneth  .         .        6 
"      Portneth  to  American  falls  .         .         .12 

"     American  falls  to  Levey  creek     .         .         -15 
"     thence  to  Cassia  creek,  (here  the  California 

trail  turns  off)         .         .         .         .         .        8 

"      Cassia  to  Big  Marsh  .         .         .         .         -15 

"      Marsh  to  River  .        ....         .         .11 

"     River  to  Goose  creek  four  miles,  seven  miles 
to  river,  and  twelve  miles  to  Dry  Branch, 
(water  in  pools)       .         .         .         .  23 

To  Rocky  Creek         ...         .         .         .8 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  'Journal  281 

MILES 

To  crossing   of   Rocky   creek,  eight   miles,   down 
to  where  the  road  leaves  the  bluff  of  creek, 
seven     .         .         .         .         .         .         .       15 

"    Salmon  Falls  creek        .....       20 

From  thence  to  Salmon  falls         ....         6 

"     Falls  to  first  crossing  of  Lewis  river     .         .       23 
"     crossing  to  Bois  river  is  about     .         .   ,      .       70 
Camps  can  be  had  from  six  to  fifteen  miles 
Down  Bois  river  to  Fort  Bois  (good  camps)  .         .      46 
Cross  Lewis  river  and  thence  to  Malheur      .         .       15 
"      Malheur  to  Birch  creek,  about    .         .         .20 
"     Birch  creek  to  river  three  miles,  and  thence 

five  miles  to  Burnt  river  ...        8 

Up  Burnt  river  about  (good  camps)      ...       26 
From  where  the  road  leaves  Burnt  river,  to  the  lone 
pine  stump  in  the  bottom  of  Powder  river, 
(the  last  thirteen  miles  no  water)      .         .       28 
To  the  crossing  of  Powder  river   .         .         .         .10 

To  Grand  Round 15 

Across  the  southern  end  of  Grand  Round      .         .         7 
Up  Big  Hill  and  on  to  Grand  Round  river    .         .        8 
Over  the  Blue  Mountains  to  Lee's  encampment     .       19 
To  Umatillo  river        .         .         .         .         .         .16 

Down  Umatillo  river   ......       44 

"      Columbia  river  to  John  Day's  river     .         .       33 
From  thence  to  Falls  river  .         .         .         .         .22 

And  thence  to  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia     .         .       16 
From  the  Dalles  to  Oregon  city,  by  way  of  wagon 

road  south  of  Mount  Hood  about    .         .160 
Upon  reaching  the  Columbia,  emigrants  should 


282  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

have  persons  in  advance  to  select  suitable  places 
for  camp  ground :  as  the  country  along  the  river  is 
extremely  barren,  and  the  grazing  limited  to  small 
patches. 


APPENDIX 


LETTER  OF  THE  REV.  H.  H.  SPALDING  TO 
JOEL  PALMER 

(Referred  to  on  page  126  [our  page  233]) 

NEZ  PERCE  MISSION,   CLEAR  WATER  RIVER, 

Oregon  Territory,  April  7,  1846. 

To  JOEL  PALMER  ESQ.  OF  INDIANA. 

MY  DEAR  SIR  :  —  Agreeably  to  your  request  I  most 
cheerfully  give  you  my  views  concerning  the  Oregon 
territory,  its  extent,  its  most  desirable  climate,  fertility 
of  soil,  rivers  and  mountains,  seas  and  bays,  and  its 
proximity  to  one  of  the  most  extensive  markets  open- 
ing upon  the  world. 

The  Oregon  territory  is  usually  divided  into  three 
great  divisions,  the  lower,  middle,  and  upper  regions. 
The  upper  includes  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  the 
head  waters  of  most  of  the  rivers  running  west  and 
east,  north  and  south,  and  extends  west  to  the  Blue 
and  Spokan  ranges  of  mountains.  The  lower  includes 
the  belt  of  country  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific, 
and  on  the  east  by  the  Nesqually,  Cascade,  and  Cali- 
fornia Mountains.  The  middle  region  lies  between 
the  two,  and  embraces  probably  far  the  greatest  extent 
of  country,  and  is  in  some  respects  the  most  desirable 
for  settlers. 


284  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

The  number  of  rainy  days,  during  the  winter  season, 
in  the  lower  country,  is  thought  to  be  about  eighty-five 
one-hundred ths;  while  the  number  of  rainy  days  dur- 
ing the  same  season  in  the  upper  (or  middle)  country, 
is  about  fifteen  one-hundredths.  [166]  There  is  but  little 
more  snow  during  the  winter  season  in  the  middle  than 
in  the  lower  region  of  the  Columbia  river,  or  upon  the 
plains.  Of  course  the  depth  of  snow  upon  the  mountains, 
depends  upon  their  height. 

The  lower  country  is  subject  to  inundations,  to  a  greater 
or  less  extent,  from  the  Columbia  river,  which  gathering 
into  standing  pools,  with  the  great  amount  of  vegetable 
decay  consequent  upon  low  prairie  countries,  produces 
to  some  extent  unhealthy  fogs  during  the  summer  season. 
This,  however,  is  greatly  moderated  by  the  sea  breezes 
from  the  Pacific.  The  middle  region  is  entirely  free 
from  these  evils,  and  has  probably  one  of  the  most 
pacific,  healthy,  and  every  way  most  desirable  climates  in 
the  world.  This,  with  its  extensive  prairies,  covered  with 
a  superior  quality  of  grass  tuft,  or  bunch  grass,  which 
springs  fresh  twice  a  year,  and  spotted  and  streaked 
everywhere  with  springs  and  streams  of  the  purest, 
sweetest  water,  renders  it  admirably  adapted  to  the 
herding  system.  The  lower  country  will  ever  have 
greatly  the  advantage  in  its  proximity  to  market,  its 
extensive  sea  coast,  and  from  the  fact  that  it  contains 
one  of  the  largest  and  best  harbors  in  the  world,  viz. 
Puget's  sound,  running  far  inland,  the  mouth  of  which 
is  protected  by  Vancouver's  island,  easy  of  access  at  all 
seasons  and  under  all  winds. 

But  to  go  into  detail.  Myself  and  wife  were  appointed 
missionaries  by  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  'Journal  285 

for  Foreign  Missions,  and  destined  to  this  field,  and 
with  our  worthy  associates,  Dr.  Whitman,  and  lady, 
arrived  in  this  country  in  the  fall  of  1836.  The  Doctor 
settled  among  the  Cayuses  near  fort  Wallawalla,  and 
myself  at  this  place,  where  we  have  ever  since  continued 
to  dwell.  Our  duties  have  called  us  to  travel  more  or 
less  every  year  to  visit  the  distant  bands  and  tribes, 
as  also  to  pack  our  supplies.  I  have  traversed  this 
middle  region  in  seventeen  different  routes,  of  from 
60  to  300  miles.  Over  many  of  the  routes  I  have  passed 
probably  in  every  month  in  the  year,  have  marked  the 
progress  of  vegetation  from  its  earliest  shooting  forth; 
the  effects  of  this  climate  [167]  upon  the  animal  con- 
stitution; the  rapidity  with  which  exhausted  poor  animals 
regain  their  flesh  and  activity,  when  turned  upon  the 
plains;  and  have  kept  tables  under  some  of  these  heads, 
as  also  a  meteorological  table  for  several  years. 

Let  me  here  observe  that  my  views  of  the  country 
have  been  materially  changed  by  a  more  accurate 
acquaintance  with  its  true  nature.  I  once  thought 
the  valleys  only  susceptible  of  habitation;  considering 
the  plains  too  dry  for  cultivation.  But  I  am  now  pre- 
pared to  say  this  is  not  the  case.  The  plains  suffer 
far  less  from  drought  than  the  valleys,  on  account  of 
the  reflection  of  heat  from  the  surrounding  hills.  The 
country,  however,  is  nowhere  peculiarly  subject  to 
drought,  as  was  once  thought.  My  place  is  one  of  the 
deepest  valleys,  and  consequently  the  most  exposed 
to  the  reflection  from  the  high  bluffs  around,  which 
rise  from  two  to  three  thousand  feet;  but  my  farm, 
though  prepared  for  irrigation,  has  remained  without 
it  for  the  last  four  years.  I  find  the  ground  becomes 


286  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

more  moist  by  cultivation.  Three  years  ago  I  raised 
six  hundred  bushels  of  shelled  corn  from  six  acres,  and 
good  crops  of  wheat  on  the  same  piece  the  two  following 
years,  without  irrigation.  Eight  years  ago  I  raised 
1500  bushels  of  potatoes  from  one  acre  and  a  half; 
measuring  some  of  the  bags  in  which  they  were  brought 
to  the  cellars,  and  so  judging  of  the  whole  amount.  I 
gave  every  eleventh  bag  for  digging  and  fetching,  and 
kept  a  strict  account  of  what  every  person  brought, 
so  that  I  was  able  to  make  a  pretty  accurate  estimate 
of  the  whole  amount.  My  potatoes  and  corn  are  always 
planted  in  drills. 

Every  kind  of  grain  or  vegetable  which  I  have  tried  or 
seen  tried  in  this  upper  country,  grows  well.  Wheat  is 
sown  in  the  fall,  and  harvested  in  June  at  this  place;  at 
Dr.  Whitman's  in  July,  being  a  more  open  country.  Corn 
is  planted  in  April  and  ripens  in  July;  peas  the  same. 

EXTENT  OF  COUNTRY 

The  southern  boundary  of  Oregon  territory  is  the 
42d  degree  of  north  latitude.  The  northern  boundary 
is  not  yet  settled;222  [168]  both  England  and 'the  United 
States  claim  north  of  the  Columbia  river  to  latitude  49°. 
But  this  vast  fertile  region,  well  timbered  upon  the 
mountains  and  river  sources,  and  well  watered,  besides 
having  the  fine  harbor  above  named,  Puget's  sound, 
must  ever  remain  the  most  important  portion  of  Oregon, 
especially  on  account  of  this  harbor,  which  will  naturally 

222  Since  this  letter  was  written,  the  forty-ninth  parallel  of  north  latitude 
has  been  established  by  treaty  as  the  boundary  line  between  the  governments 
of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  —  except  that  portion  of  Vancouver's 
island  south  of  49°,  which  continues  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Great  Britain. — 
PALMER. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  "Journal  287 

control  these  seas,  and  consequently  the  country. 
Should  the  British  flag  finally  exclusively  wave  over 
its  placid  waters,  it  will  be  to  the  rest  of  Oregon  as 
Quebec  is  to  Canada,  or  Gibraltar  to  the  Mediterranean. 
Vancouver's  Island  is  doubtless  another  reason  why 
Great  Britain  wishes  to  make  the  Columbia  river  her 
northern  boundary.  The  line  of  49°  passes  a  little 
north  of  the  southern  half  of  the  island.  The  whole 
island  contains  a  territory  considerably  larger  than 
England  and  Scotland,  produces  every  kind  of  grain  and 
vegetable  well,  and  has  a  climate  very  similar  to  our 
Middle  and  Southern  states.  Whatever  nation  possesses 
this  island,  or  the  south  portion  of  it,  with  its  neighboring 
harbor,  Puget's  sound,  possesses  nearly  all  of  a  national 
consideration  which  pertains  to  Oregon,  and  will  conse- 
quently control  it.  But  if  this  island,  or  this  portion  of 
it,  with  this  harbor,  add  their  ever  controlling  influence 
to  the  undivided  interests  of  Oregon,  this  young  colony, 
but  yesterday  begun,  and  whose  country  and  existence 
were  but  yesterday  disputed,  will  at  no  distant  day, 
under  the  softening,  life-giving  influence  of  civilization 
and  our  holy  religion,  take  its  place  among  the  wealthiest, 
happiest,  and  best  nations  of  the  earth. 

The  country  of  Oregon,  should  it  extend  to  49°  north 
latitude,  is  probably  capable  of  sustaining  as  great  a 
population  as  two-thirds  of  the  territory  of  the  States, 
and  with  far  less  hard  labor. 

CLIMATE 

This  is  decidedly  the  inviting  characteristic  of  the 
country,  and  is  certainly  a  great  inducement  for  all 
persons  of  delicate  health.  I  speak  of  the  middle  region. 


288  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

Free  from  marshes  or  standing  water  and  vegetable 
decay,  the  air  is  remarkably  pure  and  serene;  sum- 
mers rather  warm,  especially  in  the  valleys;  the  mercury 
ranges,  for  some  time  during  the  hot  season,  from  100 
to  109  degrees  above  zero.  Nights  cool,  but  no  fog 
or  dew,  except  in  a  few  places.  Twice  since  I  have 
been  in  the  country  frost  has  injured  vines,  leaves,  &c., 
first  of  May,  but  never  in  the  fall  till  late;  often  my 
melon  vines,  &c.,  are  green  till  the  first  of  December. 
Four  times  since  I  have  been  here  the  mercury  has 
fallen  below  zero;  once  to  26  degrees.  But  usually 
it  ranges  above  20  in  the  morning,  and  above  60  through 
the  day.  During  six  of  the  ten  winters  I  have  passed 
in  the  country,  the  rivers  have  not  been  frozen.  The 
Columbia  river  has  been  frozen  nearly  to  its  mouth, 
twice  since  I  have  been  in  the  country.  The  snow 
sometimes  falls  a  foot  deep  —  I  should  judge  about 
once  in  five  years.  About  half  of  my  winters  here 
there  has  been  no  snow  in  the  valleys,  and  but  little  on 
the  plains,  except  to  whiten  the  earth  for  a  short  time. 
It  disappears  in  a  few  hours,  especially  on  the  south 
face  of  the  bluffs  and  hills.  Last  year  I  made  a  collection 
of  flowers  and  plants,  which  I  purpose  to  send  to  Wash- 
ington. I  gathered  two  flowers  in  January,  on  the  22d 
and  29th,223  and  during  the  month  of  February  some 
40  showed  themselves,  and  by  the  first  of  March  the 
grass  on  the  south  faces  of  the  bluffs  was  14  inches 
high.  This  year  the  season  was  about  three  weeks 
later,  judging  by  the  appearance  of  flowers.  I  know 
of  no  disease  that  can  be  said  to  be  peculiar  to  the 

223  Flowers  have  been  seen  in  the  last  winter,  and  winter  before,  from  the 
20th  of  January. —  M.  W. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  289 

country.  The  country  is  peculiarly  free  from  sudden 
changes  of  weather,  or  violent  storms.  Persons  who 
have  wintered  here  from  the  south,  tell  me  the  winters 
are  as  mild  as  the  winters  [170]  in  the  northern  parts 
of  North  and  South  Carolina,  and  with  less  sudden 
changes. 

ADVANTAGES   FOR  THE  HERDING  SYSTEM 

The  country  is  one  extensive  prairie,  except  the  moun- 
tains, which  are  covered  with  several  species  of  pine, 
cedar,  and  fir.  The  prairies  are  rolling,  and  with  the 
exception  of  a  narrow  belt  of  sand  and  sedge  upon  the 
Columbia,  and  portions  of  the  Snake  river,  are  every- 
where covered  with  the  bunch  grass,  which,  from  obser- 
vation, I  judge  to  be  a  richer,  heartier  food  for  animals 
than  corn,  oats,  and  the  best  pastures  of  the  States. 
It  is  a  fine,  solid  stalk,  growing  two  feet  high,  with  fine 
leaves,  holds  its  freshness  through  the  winter;  I  mean 
the  old  stalk,  which  mingled  with  the  young  growth, 
that  usually  springs  fresh  in  the  fall,  forms  a  food  for 
animals  through  the  winter,  preferable  to  the  best  hay. 
Horses  and  oxen  perform  labor  at  all  seasons  upon  this 
grass  simply,  without  the  aid  of  grain;  which  I  now 
think  disposes  the  animal  system  to  various  diseases. 

When  I  pack,  I  usually  travel  from  thirty-five  to 
forty  miles  a  day,  each  horse  carrying  two  hundred 
pounds  —  rest  an  hour  at  noon,  without  taking  down 
the  packs;  camp  while  the  sun  is  yet  two  hours  high; 
hobble  the  horses  and  drive  them  up  in  the  morning 
at  sunrise.  I  find  that  horses  will  endure  such  labor 
for  twenty-five  or  thirty  days,  resting  of  course  on  the 
Sabbath,  upon  this  grass,  without  injuring  them.  Their 


290  Early  Western  Travels  [¥01.30 

wind  is  evidently  better  than  that  of  horses  fed  on  grain 
and  hay.  I  have  rode  from  Dr.  Whitman's  station  to 
this,  125  miles,  in  nineteen  hours,  starting  at  9  o'clock 
in  the  night,  and  driving  a  spare  horse  for  change;  but 
this  was  no  advantage,  for  I  find  it  is  more  fatiguing 
to  a  horse  to  be  drove  than  to  be  rode.  You  doubtless 
recollect  the  man  who  overtook  us  on  the  head  of  Ala- 
pausawi,  Thursday  morning.  He  had  left  the  Dalles 
or  Long  Narrows  on  the  Columbia  on  Tuesday  morning, 
slept  a  short  time  Tuesday  night  below  the  Umatillo, 
passed  by  Dr.  Whitman's  station,  and  slept  Wednes- 
day night  on  the  Tukanan,  [171]  a  distance  from  the 
Dalles  of  two  hundred  and  forty  miles;  and  the  day 
he  passed  us  he  traveled  fifty-five  miles  more.224  He 
rode  one  horse  and  drove  another  for  change.  You 
will  probably  even  recollect  those  horses,  as  they  left  us 
upon  the  round  gallop.  A  man  went  from  this  place, 
starting  late,  to  Wallawalla,  and  returned  on  the  third 
day,  sun  two  hours  high,  making  the  journey  in  about 
two  days  and  a  half.  The  whole  distance  traveled  was 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  but  one  horse  was 
used.  None  of  these  horses  were  injured. 

Cattle,  sheep,  horses,  and  hogs  feed  out  through  the 
winter,  and  continue  fat.  We  very  often  kill  our  beef 
in  March,  and  always  have  the  very  best  of  meat.  Often 
an  ox  from  the  plains,  killed  in  March,  yields  over  one 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of  tallow.  You  have  seen 
two  specimens,  one  killed  at  Dr.  Whitman's,  and  one 
at  this  place.  Sheep  need  the  care  of  a  shepherd  through 

224  The  first  creek  is  that  now  called  Alpowa,  in  Asotin  and  Garfield  counties, 
Washington;  it  is  a  southwestern  tributary  of  the  Lewis.  Tukenon  River,  in 
Columbia  County,  Washington,  the  largest  southern  affluent  of  the  Lewis  west 
of  Lewiston,  was  known  by  Lewis  and  Clark  as  the  Kimooenem. —  ED. 


i845-l84<>]  Palmer's  yournal  291 

the  winter,  to  protect  the  lambs  from  the  prairie  wolves. 
A  band  of  mares  should  have  a  good  stud  that  will  herd 
them  and  protect  the  colts  from  the  large  wolves.  Some 
thirty  different  kinds  of  roots  grow  abundantly  upon  the 
plains  and  bluffs,  which,  with  the  grass,  furnish  the  best 
of  food  for  hogs,  and  they  are  always  good  pork.  The 
south  faces  of  the  extensive  bluffs  and  hills  are  always 
free  from  snow,  and,  cut  up  into  ten  thousand  little 
ravines,  form  the  most  desirable  retreat  imaginable  for 
sheep  during  the  winter.  Here  they  have  the  best  of 
fresh  grass,  and  the  young  lambs,  coming  regularly 
twice  a  year,  are  protected  from  the  winds  and  enlivened 
by  the  warm  sun.  We  have  a  flock  of  sheep  belonging 
to  the  Mission,  received  from  the  islands  eight  years 
ago;  there  are  now  about  one  hundred  and  fifty.  Not 
one  has  yet  died  from  disease,  a  thing  of  such  frequent 
occurrence  in  the  States.  It  must  certainly  become  a 
great  wool  growing  country. 

I  cannot  but  contrast  the  time,  labor,  and  expense 
requisite  to  look  after  herds  in  this  country,  with  that 
required  in  the  States,  especially  in  the  Northern  and 
Middle  States,  where  two-thirds  of  every  man's  time, 
labor,  and  money  is  expended  [172]  on  his  animals,  in 
preparing  and  fencing  pasture  grounds  and  meadows, 
building  barns,  sheds,  stables,  and  granaries,  cutting 
and  securing  hay  and  grains,  and  feeding  and  looking 
to  animals  through  winter.  In  this  country  all  this  is 
superceded  by  Nature's  own  bountiful  hand.  In  this 
country  a  single  shepherd  with  his  horse  and  dogs  can 
protect  and  look  after  five  thousand  sheep.225  A  man 
with  his  horse  and  perhaps  a  dog  can  easily  attend  to 

08  At  present  it  will  require  one  man  to  a  thousand  in  the  winter  to  pro- 


292  tLarly  western  1  ravels  [Vol.  30 

two  thousand  head  of  cattle  and  horses,  without  spend- 
ing a  dollar  for  barns,  grain,  or  hay.  Consider  the 
vast  amount  of  labor  and  expense  such  a  number  of 
animals  would  require  in  the  States.  Were  I  to  select 
for  my  friends  a  location  for  a  healthy  happy  life,  and 
speedy  wealth,  it  would  be  this  country. 

Timber  is  the  great  desideratum.  But  the  country 
of  which  I  am  particularly  speaking,  extending  every 
way  perhaps  four  hundred  miles,  is  everywhere  sur- 
rounded by  low  mountains,  which  are  thickly  timbered, 
besides  two  or  three  small  ridges  passing  through  it; 
also  the  rivers  Columbia,  Snake,  Spokan,  Paluse,  Clear 
Water,  Yankiman,  Okanakan,  Salmon,  Wailua,  Tu- 
kanan,  Wallawalla,  Umatillo,  John  Day's  and  river 
De  Shutes;  and  down  most  of  these  timber  or  lumber 
can  be  rafted  in  any  quantities.  So  that  but  a  very 
small  portion  of  the  country  will  be  over  ten  or  fifteen 
miles  from  timber;  most  of  it  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  timber.  The  numerous  small  streams  which  occur 
every  five  or  six  miles,  affording  most  desirable  locations 
for  settlements,  contain  some  cotton  wood,  alder  and 
thorn.  But  timber  is  soon  grown  from  sprouts.  The 
streams  everywhere  run  over  a  stony  bottom,  while 
the  soil  is  entirely  free  from  stone.  Streams  are  rapid, 
affording  the  best  of  mill  privileges. 

MARKET,    SEAS  AND   BAYS 

The  western  shores  of  Oregon  are  washed  by  the 
placid  [173]  waters  of  the  Pacific,  which  bring  the 
360,003,000  of  China,  the  many  millions  of  the  vast 

tect  from  wolves.  But  Strycknine  is  a  sure  poison  with  which  to  destroy 
them.—  M.  W. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  293 

Indies  and  of  Australasia,  and  lay  them  at  our  doors 
with  opening  hands  to  receive  our  produce;  which,  with 
the  numerous  whale  ships  that  literally  whiten  the 
Northern  Pacific,  calling  not  only  for  provisions,  but 
harbors  to  winter  in,  must  ever  afford  one  of  the  most 
extensive  markets  in  the  world  for  all  kinds  of  produce, 
and  one  concerning  which  there  need  be  but  little  fear 
that  it  will  ever  be  overstocked.  A  market  compared 
with  which,  that  offered  by  western  Europe  to  the  east- 
ern section  of  the  United  States,  will  become  as  a  drop 
to  the  bucket.  The  United  States'  Commercial  Agent 
at  Oahu,  Sandwich  Islands,  is  desirous  to  make  a  con- 
tract for  a  certain  amount  of  provisions  to  be  supplied 
to  American  shipping  every  year  at  Oregon  city;  but  as 
yet  the  supplies  of  the  country  over  and  above  the  home 
consumption,  are  not  sufficient  to  warrant  a  dependence 
of  our  whale  shipping  upon  the  country.  In  fact  for 
many  years,  while  the  United  States  continue  to  pour 
their  inhabitants  by  tens  of  thousands,  every  year,  into 
this  young  republic,  the  home  market  must  continue 
in  competition  with  the  foreign.  But  the  day  is  not 
distant  when  this  country,  settled  by  an  industrious, 
virtuous,  Sabbath-loving  people,  governed  by  whole- 
some laws,  blessed  with  schools,  and  the  institutions 
of  our  holy  religion,  will  hold  out  abundant  encourage- 
ments for  the  numerous  whale  and  merchant  ships  of 
the  Pacific  to  leave  their  heavy  lading  of  three  years' 
supply  of  provisions  at  home,  and  depend  upon  the 
market  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  their  fishing  grounds. 
Others  following  in  their  track,  learning  of  this  new 
world,  and  finding  out  our  ample  harbors,  soon  this  little 
obscure  point  upon  the  map  of  the  world  will  become 


294  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

a  second  North  American  Republic  —  her  commerce 
whitening  every  sea,  and  her  crowded  ports  fanned  by 
the  flags  of  every  nation.  From  this  upper  country,  a 
distance  of  three  hundred  or  four  hundred  miles,  droves 
of  cattle  and  sheep  can  be  driven  to  the  lower  portions 
of  the  Columbia  river,  [174]  with  far  less  expense  and 
labor  than  they  are  driven  the  same  distances  in  the 
States,  always  being  in  the  midst  of  grass  upon  which 
they  may  feed  every  night  without  charge. 

The  principal  harbors  are  Puget's  Sound,  mouths 
of  Columbia,  Frazier's,  Shahales,  Umpqua,  Rose  and 
Clamet  rivers.228  Doubtless  others  will  be  discovered, 
as  the  country  becomes  more  known.  A  dangerous 
bar  extends  nearly  across  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
leaving  but  a  narrow  obscure  channel,  difficult  of  access 
or  egress,  except  with  favorable  winds.  Vessels  some- 
times find  it  impossible  to  enter  the  river  by  reason  of 
contrary  winds;  and  sometimes  are  detained  in  the 
river  two  or  three  months,  there  not  being  sea  room 
enough  to  go  out  against  a  head  wind.  This  difficulty 
could  be  greatly  obviated,  and  perhaps  removed,  by  a 
pilot  boat.  Concerning  the  other  rivers  I  have  no  certain 
knowledge,  but  have  been  informed  that  some  of  them 
are  navigable  for  vessels  from  forty  to  sixty  miles,  and 
afford  convenient  harbors.  Puget's  Sound,  as  before 
observed,  is  one  of  the  safest  and  best  harbors  in  the 
world,  it  can  be  entered  or  left  under  any  winds  and  at 
any  season  of  the  year.  The  scenery  around  is  said  to 
be  most  enchanting.  Two  lakes  near  sending  off  a 
small  stream  of  pure  water.  A  considerable  river  runs 

228 These  rivers  have  all  been  noted  in  the  text,  ante.  By  "Rose"  the 
author  intends  Rogue  River. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  295 

into  the  sound,  making  a  fall  of  some  twenty-five  feet 
just  as  it  plunges  into  the  sea,  affording  the  opportunity 
of  building  mills  upon  the  wharfs. 

But  very  little  has  been  known  by  Americans  con- 
cerning the  extensive  country  north  of  the  Columbia, 
till  last  winter.  I  have  several  times  been  told  by  British 
subjects  that  the  countries  bordering  on  Frazier's  river 
and  Puget's  Sound  were  too  sterile  for  cultivation,  and 
but  poor  crops  could  be  raised  on  the  Cowlitz.  Whereas, 
the  exploring  party  who  left  Oregon  city,  last  winter, 
report  that  they  found  a  very  extensive  country  north 
of  the  Columbia  river,  of  apparently  good  soil,  well 
timbered  with  pine  and  oak,  and  well  watered  with  the 
following  rivers  and  their  tributaries,  viz.:  the  Cowlitz, 
emptying  into  the  Columbia  river  from  the  north;  the 
Shahales,  [175]  running  into  a  small  bay  north  of  the 
Columbia  river;  the  Nesqualla,  rising  near  the  source 
of  the  Cowlitz,  and  running  north  into  Puget's  Sound; 
Frazier's  river  north  of  this,  and  several  smaller  ones 
not  named. 

On  the  Cowlitz,  Nesqualla  and  Frazier's  rivers,  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company  have  large  establishments,  and 
are  producing  vast  quantities  of  wool,  beef,  pork,  and  all 
kinds  of  grain,  for  British  whale  ships  which  frequent 
the  harbors.  Besides  these  establishments,  they  have 
extensive  farms  and  herds  at  Vancouver,  in  the  Willa- 
mette valley  and  Colvile,  and  trading  posts  on  Vancouver 
island,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  Umpqua, 
Vancouver,  Wallawalla,  Okanakan  and  Colvile,  Boise 
and  fort  Hall,  with  very  many  at  the  north.  Some  of 
these  are  strongly  fortified,  and  are  being  well  supplied 
with  cannon  and  other  munitions  of  war,  by  almost 


296  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

every  ship  that  arrives.  So  I  have  been  informed  by 
persons  from  these  ships. 

With  the  extensive  valley  watered  by  the  Willamette 
and  its  numerous  tributaries,  you  are  better  acquainted 
than  myself,  as  I  have  never  visited  that  country.  I 
cannot,  however,  deny  myself  the  pleasure  of  express- 
ing my  opinion  of  the  country,  formed  from  information 
derived  yearly  from  scores  of  persons  who  have  dwelt 
long  in,  or  traveled  more  or  less  through  its  extensive 
territory,  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

On  the  west  the  great  valley  is  separated  from  the 
Pacific  by  a  low  range  of  well  timbered  mountains, 
that  give  rise  to  numerous  streams  and  small  rivers, 
some  of  which  are  lately  found  sufficient  to  admit  vessels. 
On  the  east  it  is  bounded  by  the  Cascade  or  President's 
range,  everywhere  abounding  with  white  pine  and  cedar. 
The  Willamette  river  rises  in  latitude  42°,  and  runs 
north  and  empties  itself  into  the  Columbia  river  85  miles 
above  its  mouth.  The  falls  of  the  Willamette  are  about 
thirty  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  must  ever  add  a  vast 
interest  to  the  country.  The  power  for  mills  and 
machinery  that  may  be  erected  on  each  side  of  the  river, 
and  on  the  island  in  the  middle  of  the  falls,  is  adequate 
for  almost  any  conceivable  demand. 

[176]  Oregon  city,  situated  at  the  falls  on  the  east 
side  of  the  river,  contains  over  five  hundred  souls,  about 
eighty  houses,  viz. :  two  churches,  two  blacksmith  shops, 
one  cooper  shop,  two  cabinet  shops,  four  tailor  shops, 
one  hatter's  shop,  one  tannery,  three  shoe  shops,  two 
silver  smiths,  four  stores,  two  taverns,  two  flouring  and 
two  saw  mills,  and  a  lathe  machine.  Directly  opposite, 
on  the  west  side,  are  two  towns  laid  out,  and  buildings 
are  going  up.  The  face  of  the  country  in  the  Willa- 


i845-z846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  297 

mette  valley  is  rolling,  very  equally  divided  into  prairie 
and  timbered  countries,  with  frequent  oak  openings. 
Wheat  produces  well;  corn,  potatoes,  &c.  produce 
well  in  some  places,  and  probably  would  everywhere 
do  well  with  good  cultivation;  soil  everywhere  con- 
sidered of  a  superior  quality.  Less  snow  during  the 
winter  season  than  in  the  middle  district,  but  much 
more  rain,  with  fogs,  on  the  low  lands  during  the  sum- 
mer, which  render  the  country  less  healthy  than  this 
middle  region;  but  still  the  country  cannot  be  considered 
an  unhealthy  country.  The  face  of  the  country  is  every- 
where covered  with  bunch  grass,227  and  animals  feed 
out  through  the  winter,  as  in  the  middle  region. 

The  rivers  Umpqua,  Rose  and  Clamet,  which  empty 
into  the  Pacific,  south  of  the  Columbia,  are  said  to 
water  extensive  fertile  countries;  but  as  yet  very  little 
is  known  of  these  regions.  Ships  come  up  the  Willa- 
mette river  within  a  few  miles  of  Oregon  city.  Concern- 
ing the  road  for  wagons  commenced  south  of  Mount 
Hood,  and  which  is  to  be  completed  this  summer,  to  be 
in  readiness  for  the  next  emigration,  you  are  better 
acquainted  than  myself. 

I  am  happy  to  recommend  to  future  emigrants  your 
directions  and  advice  as  to  the  best  mode  of  traveling; 
number  of  wagons  desirable  to  travel  together;  quantity 
of  provisions  required  for  each  person;  best  route; 
distance  to  be  traveled  each  day.  You  will  also  be 
able  to  give  the  prices  for  which  the  Hudson  Bay  com- 
pany sells  flour,  at  Forts  Hall  [177]  and  Bois,  and  for 
which  it  is  brought  from  the  Willamette  to  the  Dalles 
and  sold. 

You  are  acquainted  with  the  fact  that  the  Mission 

227  Clover  (native)  is  more  abundant  in  June. —  M.  W. 


298  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

station  at  this  place,  and  at  Waiilatpu,  have  been  in  the 
habit  of  furnishing  provisions  to  immigrants.  We  are 
willing  to  do  so  as  long  as  there  are  no  other  sources 
of  supplies  in  this  vicinity,  and  therefore  seems  a  duty. 
But  our  object  in  the  country  is  to  civilize  and  Christianize 
the  Indian  tribes  among  whom  we  are  located.  We 
are  stewards  of  the  property  of  others.  We  receive  no 
salaries,  but  simply  our  living  and  clothing.  We  there- 
fore feel  it  to  be  our  duty  to  endeavour  to  make  the 
receipts  for  provisions  sold,  net  their  expenses.  For 
this  end,  Mr.  Gilbert,  a  gentleman  from  New  York,  has 
taken  charge  of  the  secular  affairs  of  this  station,  and 
will  furnish  provisions  to  immigrants  on  the  most  reason- 
able terms.  He  will  give  you  their  probable  prices, 
and  the  names  of  such  things  as  will  be  taken  in  exchange. 
You  have  seen  the  quantity  and  quality  of  flour  and 
beef  at  this  place,  as  also  at  Waiilatpu. 

Yours  very  sincerely, 

H.  H.  SPALDING. 

P.  S.  During  last  season,  commencing  22d  of  Jan- 
uary, I  collected  and  preserved  over  two  thousand 
different  species  of  flowers,  plants  and  grasses,228  many 
of  which  I  think  are  rare,  but  I  am  no  botanist. 

128  Probably  what  are  called  species  here,  are  in  many  cases  only  a  variety 
of  the  same  species. —  M.  W. 


The  Legislative  Committee  recommend  that  the  following 
Laws  be  adopted. 

PREAMBLE 

WE,  the  people  of  Oregon  Territory,  for  purposes  of 
mutual  protection,  and  to  secure  peace  and  prosperity 
among  ourselves,  agree  to  adopt  the  following  laws 
and  regulations,  until  such  time  as  the  United  States 
of  America  extend  their  jurisdiction  over  us. 

Be  it  enacted,  therefore,  by  the  free  citizens  of  Oregon 
Territory,  that  the  said  territory,  for  purposes  of  tem- 
porary government,  be  divided  into  not  less  than  three  nor 
more  than  five  districts,  subject  to  be  extended  to  a  greater 
number  when  an  increase  of  population  shall  require. 

For  the  purpose  of  fixing  the  principles  of  civil  and 
religious  liberty,  as  the  basis  of  all  laws  and  constitutions 
of  government  that  may  hereafter  be  adopted  — 

Be  it  enacted,  That  the  following  articles  be  considered 
articles  of  compact  among  the  free  citizens  of  this  territory: 

ARTICLE  I 

§  i.  No  person  demeaning  himself  in  a  peaceable  and 
orderly  manner,  shall  ever  be  molested  on  account  of  his 
mode  of  worship  or  religious  sentiments. 

[180]  §  2.  The  inhabitants  of  said  territory  shall 
always  be  entitled  to  the  benefits  of  the  writ  of  habeas 


300  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

corpus  and  trial  by  jury,  of  a  proportionate  representation 
of  the  people  in  the  legislature,  and  of  judicial  proceed- 
ings, according  to  the  course  of  common  law.  All  persons 
shall  be  bailable,  unless  for  capital  offences,  where  the 
proof  shall  be  evident  or  the  presumption  great.  All 
fines  shall  be  moderate,  and  no  cruel  or  unusual  punish- 
ments shall  be  inflicted.  No  man  shall  be  deprived  of 
his  liberty  but  by  the  judgment  of  his  peers,  or  the  law 
of  the  land;  and  should  the  public  exigencies  make  it 
necessary  for  the  common  preservation  to  take  any  per- 
son's property,  or  to  demand  his  particular  services,  full 
compensation  shall  be  made  for  the  same;  and  in  the 
just  preservation  of  rights  and  property,  it  is  under- 
stood and  declared  that  no  law  ought  ever  to  be  made,  or 
have  force  in  said  territory,  that  shall,  in  any  manner 
whatever,  interfere  with  or  affect  private  contracts  or 
engagements,  "bona  fide"  and  without  fraud  previously 
formed. 

§  3.  Religion,  morality  and  knowledge  being  necessary 
to  good  government  and  the  happiness  of  mankind, 
schools  and  the  means  of  education  shall  forever  be 
encouraged.  The  utmost  good  faith  shall  always  be 
observed  towards  the  Indians;  their  lands  and  property 
shall  never  be  taken  from  them  without  their  consent; 
and  in  their  property,  rights  or  liberty  they  shall  never 
be  invaded  or  disturbed,  unless  in  just  and  lawful  wars, 
authorised  by  the  representatives  of  the  people;  but 
laws  founded  in  justice  and  humanity  shall,  from  time 
to  time,  be  made  for  preventing  injustice  being  done  to 
them,  and  for  preserving  peace  and  friendship  with  them. 

§  4.  There  shall  be  no  slavery  nor  involuntary  servi- 
tude in  said  territory  otherwise  than  for  the  punishment 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  "Journal  301 

of  crimes,  whereof  the  party  shall  have  been  duly  con- 
victed. 

§  5.  No  person  shall  be  deprived  of  the  right  of  bearing 
arms  in  his  own  defence;  no  unreasonable  searches  or 
seizures  shall  be  granted;  the  freedom  of  the  press  shall 
not  be  restrained;  [181]  no  person  shall  be  twice  tried  for 
the  same  offence;  nor  the  people  deprived  of  the  right  of 
peaceably  assembling  and  discussing  any  matter  they 
may  think  proper;  nor  shall  the  right  of  petition  ever 
be  denied. 

§  6.  The  powers  of  the  government  shall  be  divided 
into  three  distinct  departments  —  the  legislative,  execu- 
tive, and  judicial;  and  no  person,  belonging  to  one  of 
these  departments,  shall  exercise  any  of  the  powers 
properly  belonging  to  either  of  the  others,  except  in 
cases  herein  directed  or  permitted. 

ARTICLE  II 

§  i.  The  legislative  power  shall  be  vested  in  a  House 
of  Representatives,  which  shall  consist  of  not  less  than 
thirteen  nor  more  than  sixty-one  members,  whose  numbers 
shall  not  be  increased  more  than  five  at  any  one  session,  to 
be  elected  by  the  qualified  electors  at  the  annual  election, 
giving  to  each  district  a  representation  in  proportion  to 
its  population,  (excluding  Indians,)  and  the  said  mem- 
bers shall  reside  in  the  district  for  which  they  shall  be 
chosen;  and  in  case  of  vacancy  by  death,  resignation 
or  otherwise,  the  executive  shall  issue  his  writ  to  the 
district  where  such  vacancy  has  occurred,  and  cause  a 
new  election  to  be  held,  giving  sufficient  notice  at  least 
ten  days  previously,  of  the  time  and  place  of  holding 
said  election. 


302  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

§  2.  The  House  of  Representatives,  when  assembled, 
shall  choose  a  speaker  and  its  other  officers,  be  judges 
of  the  qualifications  and  election  of  its  members,  and 
sit  upon  its  own  adjournment  from  day  to  day.  Two- 
thirds  of  the  House  shall  constitute  a  quorum  to  transact 
business,  but  a  smaller  number  may  adjourn  from  day 
to  day,  and  may  be  authorised  by  law  to  compel  the 
attendance  of  absent  members. 

§  3.  The  House  may  determine  the  rules  of  its  pro- 
ceedings, punish  its  members  for  disorderly  behavior, 
and  with  the  concurrence  of  two-thirds,  expel  a  member, 
but  not  a  second  time  for  the  same  offence;  and  shall 
have  all  powers  necessary  for  [182]  a  legislature  of  a 
temporary  government,  not  in  contravention  with  the 
restrictions  imposed  in  this  Organic  Law. 

§  4.  The  House  of  Representatives  shall,  from  time 
to  time,  fix  the  salaries  of  the  different  officers  appointed 
or  elected  under  this  compact,  provided  the  pay  of  no 
officer  shall  be  altered  during  the  term  of  his  service; 
nor  shall  the  pay  of  the  House  be  increased  by  any  law 
taking  effect  during  the  session  at  which  such  alteration 
is  made. 

§  5.  The  House  of  Representatives  shall  have  the  sole 
power  of  impeaching;  three- fourths  of  all  the  members 
must  concur  in  an  impeachment.  The  governor  and 
all  civil  officers  under  these  articles  of  compact,  shall 
be  liable  to  impeachment  for  treason,  bribery,  or  any 
high  crime  or  misdemeanor  in  office.  Judgment  in  such 
cases  shall  not  extend  further  than  removal  from  office, 
and  disqualification  to  hold  any  office  of  honor,  trust 
or  profit  under  this  compact;  but  the  party  convicted 
may  be  dealt  with  according  to  law. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  303 

§  6.  The  House  of  Representatives  shall  have  power 
to  lay  out  the  territory  into  suitable  districts,  and  appor- 
tion the  representation  in  their  own  body.  They  shall 
have  power  to  pass  laws  for  raising  a  revenue  either  by 
the  levying  and  collecting  of  taxes,  or  the  imposing 
license  on  merchandize,  ferries,  or  other  objects  —  to 
open  roads  and  canals,  either  by  the  levying  a  road  tax, 
or  the  chartering  of  companies;  to  regulate  the  inter- 
course of  the  people  with  the  Indian  tribes;  to  establish 
post  offices  and  post  roads;  to  declare  war,  suppress 
insurrection  or  repel  invasion;  to  provide  for  the  organiz- 
ing, arming,  and  disciplining  the  militia,  and  for  calling 
forth  the  militia  to  execute  the  laws  of  Oregon;  to  pass 
laws  to  regulate  the  introduction,  manufacture,  or  sale 
of  ardent  spirits;  to  regulate  the  currency  and  internal 
police  of  the  country;  to  create  inferior  offices  necessary 
and  not  provided  for  by  these  articles  of  compact;  and 
generally  to  pass  such  laws  to  promote  the  general  wel- 
fare of  the  people  of  Oregon,  not  contrary  to  the  spirit 
of  this  instrument;  and  all  powers  not  hereby  expressly 
delegated,  [183]  remain  with  the  people.  The  House 
of  Representatives  shall  convene  annually  on  the  first 
Tuesday  in  December,  at  such  place  as  may  be  provided 
by  law,  and  shall,  upon  their  first  meeting  after  the  adop- 
tion of  this  instrument  of  compact,  proceed  to  elect  and 
define  the  duties  of  a  secretary,  recorder,  treasurer, 
auditor,  marshal,  or  other  officers  necessary  to  carry 
into  effect  the  provisions  of  this  compact. 

§  7.  The  executive  power  shall  be  vested  in  one  person, 
elected  by  the  qualified  voters  at  the  annual  election, 
who  shall  have  power  to  fill  vacancies;  to  remit  fines 
and  forfeitures;  to  grant  pardons  and  reprieves  for 


304  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

offences  against  the  laws  of  the  territory;  to  call  out  the 
military  force  of  the  country  to  repel  invasion  or  suppress 
insurrection;  to  take  care  that  the  laws  are  faithfully 
executed,  and  to  recommend  such  laws  as  he  may  con- 
sider necessary  to  the  representatives  of  the  people  for 
their  action.  Every  bill  which  shall  have  been  passed 
by  the  House  of  Representatives,  shall,  before  it  becomes 
a  law,  be  presented  to  the  governor  for  his  approbation. 
If  he  approve,  he  shall  sign  it;  if  not,  he  shall  return  it, 
with  his  objections,  to  the  House,  and  the  House  shall 
cause  the  objections  to  be  entered  at  large  on  its  journals, 
and  shall  proceed  to  reconsider  the  bill ;  if,  after  such  re- 
consideration, a  majority  of  two-thirds  of  the  House  shall 
agree  to  pass  the  same,  it  shall  become  a  law.  In  such 
cases  the  vote  shall  be  taken  by  ayes  and  noes,  and  be 
entered  upon  the  journal.  If  any  bill  shall  not  be  returned 
by  the  governor  to  the  House  of  Representatives  within 
three  days  (Sundays  excepted)  after  it  shall  have  been 
presented  to  him,  the  same  shall  become  a  law  in  like 
manner  as  if  the  governor  had  signed  it,  unless  the  House 
of  Representatives,  by  its  adjournment,  shall  prevent 
its  return;  in  which  case  it  shall  not  become  a  law.  The 
governor  shall  continue  in  office  two  years,  and  until 
his  successor  is  duly  elected  and  qualified;  and  in  case 
of  the  office  becoming  vacant  by  death,  resignation,  or 
otherwise,  the  secretary  shall  exercise  the  duties  of  the 
office  until  the  vacancy  shall  be  filled  by  [184]  election. 
The  governor  shall  receive  the  sum  of  dollars  per 

annum,  as  full  compensation  for  his  services,  which  sum 
may  be  increased  or  diminished  at  any  time  by  law, 
provided  the  salary  of  no  governor  shall  be  altered  during 
his  term  of  service.  The  governor  shall  have  power  to 
convene  the  legislature  on  extraordinary  occasions. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  305 

§  8.  The  judicial  power  shall  be  vested  in  a  supreme 
court,  and  such  inferior  courts  of  law,  equity,  and  arbi- 
tration, as  may,  by  law  from  time  to  time  be  established. 
The  supreme  court  shall  consist  of  one  judge,  who  shall 
be  elected  by  the  House  of  Representatives,  and  hold 
his  office  for  four  years,  and  until  his  successor  is  duly 
elected  and  qualified.  The  supreme  court,  except  in 
cases  otherwise  directed  by  this  compact,  shall  have 
appellate  jurisdiction  only,  which  shall  be  co-extensive 
with  this  territory,  and  shall  hold  two  sessions  annually, 
beginning  on  the  first  Mondays  in  June  and  September, 
and  at  such  places  as  by  law  may  be  directed.  The 
supreme  court  shall  have  a  general  superintending 
control  over  all  inferior  courts  of  law.  It  shall  have 
power  to  issue  writs  of  habeas  corpus,  mandamus,  quo 
warranto,  certiorari,  and  other  original  remedial  writs, 
and  hear  and  determine  the  same.  The  supreme  court 
shall  have  power  to  decide  upon  and  annul  any  laws 
contrary  to  the  provisions  of  these  articles  of  compact, 
and  whenever  called  upon  by  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives, the  supreme  judge  shall  give  his  opinion  touching 
the  validity  of  any  pending  measure.  The  House  of 
Representatives  may,  hereafter,  provide  by  law  for  the 
supreme  court  having  original  jurisdiction  in  criminal 
cases. 

§  9.  All  officers  under  this  compact,  shall  take  an 
oath,  as  follows,  to  wit:  I  do  solemnly  swear,  that  I  will 
support  the  Organic  Laws  of  the  provisional  Govern- 
ment of  Oregon,  so  far  as  said  Organic  Laws  are  consis- 
tent with  my  duties  as  a  citizen  of  the  United  States, 
or  a  subject  of  Great  Britain,229  and  faithfully  demean 
myself  in  office.  So  help  me  God. 

228  This  clause  was  introduced  into  the  "Organic  Law"  of  the  provisional 


306  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

§  10.  Every  free  male  descendant  of  a  white  man, 
inhabitant  [185]  of  this  territory,  of  the  age  of  twenty- 
one  years  and  upwards,  who  shall  have  been  an  inhabitant 
of  this  territory  at  the  time  of  its  organization,  shall  be 
entitled  to  vote  at  the  election  of  officers,  civil  and  mili- 
tary, and  be  eligible  to  any  office  in  the  territory,  provided, 
that  all  persons  of  the  description  entitled  to  vote  by  the 
provisions  of  this  section,  who  shall  emigrate  to  this 
territory  after  its  organization,  shall  be  entitled  to  the 
rights  of  citizens  after  having  resided  six  months  in 
the  territory. 

§  ii.  The  election  for  all  civil  officers,  provided  for 
by  this  compact,  shall  be  held  the  first  Monday  in  June 
annually. 

ARTICLE  III  —  LAND  LAW 

§  i.  Any  person  now  holding,  or  hereafter  wishing  to 
establish  a  claim  to  land  in  this  territory,  shall  designate 
the  extent  of  his  claim  by  natural  boundaries,  or  by 
marks  at  the  corners  and  upon  the  lines  of  such  claim, 
and  have  the  extent  and  boundaries  of  said  claim  recorded 
in  the  office  of  the  territorial  recorder,  in  a  book  to  be 
kept  by  him  for  that  purpose,  within  twenty  days  from 
the  time  of  making  said  claim:  provided,  that  those  who 
shall  be  already  in  possession  of  land,  shall  be  allowed 
twelve  months  from  the  passage  of  this  act  to  file  a  descrip- 

government  in  order  to  secure  the  Hudson's  Bay  traders,  and  hold  their  alle- 
giance to  the  newly-established  league  of  order.  A  copy  was  sent  to  Governor 
McLoughlin,  who  having  examined  the  document  and  finding  "that  this  com- 
pact does  not  interfere  with  our  duties  and  allegiance  to  our  respective  govern- 
ments," wrote  "we  the  officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  consent  to 
become  parties  to  the  articles  of  compact."  See  H.  H.  Bancroft,  History 
oj  Oregon,  i,  p.  495,  note  31. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer's  Journal  307 

tion  of  his  claim  in  the  recorder's  office:  and  provided 
further,  that  the  said  claimant  shall  state  in  his  record, 
the  size,  shape,  and  locality  of  such  claim,  and  give  the 
names  of  the  adjoining  claimants;  and  the  recorder  may 
require  the  applicant  for  such  record  to  be  made  to  answer, 
on  his  oath,  touching  the  facts. 

§  2.  All  claimants  shall,  within  six  months  from  the 
time  of  recording  their  claims,  make  permanent  improve- 
ments upon  the  same,  by  building  or  enclosing,  and  also 
become  an  occupant  upon  said  claim  within  one  year  from 
the  date  of  such  record,  or  in  case  not  occupied,  the  person 
holding  said  claim  shall  pay  into  the  treasury  the  sum  of 
five  dollars  annually,  and  in  case  of  failure  to  occupy,  or 
on  failure  of  payment  of  [186]  the  sum  above  stated,  the 
claim  shall  be  considered  as  abandoned:  provided,  that 
no  non-resident  of  this  territory  shall  have  the  benefit 
of  this  law:  and,  provided  further,  that  any  resident  of 
this  territory,  absent  on  private  business  for  two  years, 
may  hold  his  claim  by  paying  five  dollars  annually  to 
the  treasury. 

§  3.  No  individual  shall  be  allowed  to  hold  a  claim  of 
more  than  one  square  mile,  or  six  hundred  and  forty 
acres,  in  a  square  or  oblong  form,  according  to  the  natural 
situation  of  the  premises.  Nor  shall  any  individual  be 
allowed  to  hold  more  than  one  claim  at  the  same  time. 
Any  person  complying  with  the  provisions  of  these 
ordinances,  shall  be  entitled  to  the  same  recourse  against 
trespass  as  in  other  cases  by  law  provided. 

§  4.  Partnerships  of  two  or  more  persons  shall  be 
allowed  to  take  up  a  tract  of  land  not  exceeding  six 
hundred  and  forty  acres  to  each  person  in  said  partner- 
ship, subject  to  all  the  provisions  of  the  law;  and  when- 


308  Rarly  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

ever  such  partnership  is  dissolved,  the  members  shall 
each  record  the  particular  parts  of  said  tract  as  may  be 
allotted  to  him:  provided  that  no  member  of  said  part- 
nership shall  hold  a  separate  claim  at  the  time  of  the 
existence  of  said  partnership. 

§  5.  The  boundary  lines  of  all  claims  shall  hereafter 
conform,  as  near  as  may  be,  to  the  cardinal  points. 

§  6.  The  officers  elected  at  the  general  election,  held 
on  the  first  Tuesday  in  June,  1845,  sna^  b6  tne  officers 
to  act  under  this  organic  law,  and  their  official  acts,  so 
far  as  they  are  in  accordance  with  this  compact,  are 
hereby  declared  valid  and  legal. 

§  7.  Amendments  to  this  instrument  may  be  proposed 
by  the  House  of  Representatives,  two-thirds  of  the 
members  concurring  therein;  which  amendments  shall 
be  made  public  in  all  parts  of  Oregon,  and  be  read  at 
the  polls  at  the  next  succeeding  general  election,  and  a 
concurrence  of  two- thirds  of  all  [187]  the  members 
elected  at  said  election,  may  pass  said  amendments, 
and  they  shall  become  a  part  of  this  compact. 


CERTIFICATE 

I,  John  E.  Long,230  secretary  of  Oregon  territory,  do 
hereby  certify,  that  the  foregoing  is  a  true  and  correct 
copy  of  the  original  law,  as  passed  by  the  representatives 
oi  the  people  of  Oregon,  on  the  fifth  day  of  July,  A.  D. 
1845,  and  submitted  to  .the  people  on  the  twenty-sixth 
day  of  the  same  month,  and  by  them  adopted  and  now 
on  file  in  my  office.  J.  E.  LONG,  Secretary. 


230  For  note  on  Long,  see  De  Smet's  Oregon  Missions  in  our  volume  xxix. 
p.  280,  note  174. —  ED. 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  'Journal  309 

N.  B.  At  the  December  Session,  1845,  of  the  House 
of  Representatives,  two-thirds  of  the  members  concurring 
therein,  the  following  amendments  to  the  Organic  Law 
were  proposed,  to  wit:  Strike  out  in  the  4th  section  of 
said  law,  the  words  "or  more."  Also,  to  amend  the 
land  law  so  as  to  "permit  claimants  to  hold  six  hundred 
acres  in  the  prairie,  and  forty  acres  in  the  timber,  though 
said  tracts  do  not  join." 

ARDENT  SPIRITS 

AN   ACT   to  prevent   the  introduction,  sale,   and   distillation    of 
ardent  spirits  in  Oregon. 

§  i.  Be  it  enacted,  by  the  House  of  Representatives  of 
Oregon  Territory,  That  if  any  person  shall  hereafter 
import  or  introduce  any  ardent  spirits  into  Oregon,  with 
intent  to  sell,  barter,  give,  or  trade  the  same,  and  shall 
offer  the  same  for  sale,  trade,  barter,  or  gift,  he  shall  be 
fined  the  sum  of  fifty  dollars  for  each  and  every  such 
offence,  which  may  be  recovered  by  indictment,  or  by 
trial  before  a  justice  of  the  peace,  without  the  form  of 
pleading. 

§  2.  That  if  any  person  shall  hereafter  sell,  barter, 
give,  or  trade  any  ardent  spirits  of  any  kind  whatever, 
directly  or  indirectly,  to  any  person  within  Oregon,  he 
shall  forfeit  and  pay  [188]  the  sum  of  twenty  dollars 
for  each  and  every  such  sale,  trade,  barter,  or  gift,  to  be 
recovered  by  indictment  in  the  county  court,  or  before 
a  justice  of  the  peace,  without  the  form  of  pleading. 

§  3.  That  if  any  person  shall  hereafter  establish  or 
carry  on  any  manufactory  or  distillery  of  ardent  spirits 
in  Oregon,  he  shall  be  subject  to  be  indicted  before  the 
county  court,  as  for  a  nuisance,  and  if  convicted,  he 


310  Early  Western  Travels  [Vol.  30 

shall  be  fined  the  sum  of  one  hundred  dollars;  and  the 
court  shall  issue  an  order  to  the  sheriff,  directing  him  to 
seize  and  destroy  the  distilling  apparatus,  which  order 
the  sheriff  shall  execute. 

§  4.  Whenever  it  shall  come  to  the  knowledge  of  any 
officer  of  this  government,  or  any  private  citizen,  that 
any  kind  of  spirituous  liquors  are  being  distilled  or 
manufactured  in  Oregon,  they  are  hereby  authorised 
and  required  to  proceed  to  the  place  where  such  illicit 
manufacture  is  known  to  exist,  and  seize  the  distilling 
apparatus,  and  deliver  the  same  to  the  nearest  district 
judge  or  justice  of  the  peace,  whose  duty  it  shall  be 
immediately  to  issue  his  warrant,  and  cause  the  house 
and  premises  of  the  person  against  whom  such  warrant 
shall  be  issued  to  be  further  searched;  and  in  case  any 
kind  of  spirituous  liquors  are  found  in  or  about  said 
premises,  or  any  implements  or  apparatus  that  have  the 
appearance  of  having  been  used  or  constructed  for  the 
purpose  of  manufacturing  any  kind  of  spirituous  liquors, 
the  officer  who  shall  have  been  duly  authorised  to  execute 
said  warrant,  shall  seize  all  such  apparatus,  implements, 
and  spirituous  liquors,  and  deliver  the  same  to  the  judge 
or  justice  of  the  peace  who  issued  the  said  warrant; 
said  officer  shall  also  arrest  the  person  or  persons  in  or 
about  whose  premises  such  apparatus,  implements,  or 
spirituous  liquors  are  found,  and  conduct  him  or  them 
to  said  judge  or  justice  of  the  peace,  whose  duty  it  shall 
be  to  proceed  against  such  criminal  or  criminals,  and 
dispose  of  the  articles  seized,  according  to  law. 

§  5.  All  fines  and  penalties  imposed  under  this  act, 
shall  go,  [189]  one-half  to  the  informant  and  witnesses, 
and  the  other  half  to  the  officers  engaged  in  arresting 


1845-1846]  Palmer  s  Journal  311 

and  trying  the  criminal  or  criminals;  and  it  shall  be  the 
duty  of  all  officers  into  whose  hands  such  fines  and 
penalties  may  come,  to  pay  over  as  directed  in  this 
section. 

§  6.  This  act  shall  not  be  so  construed  as  to  prevent 
any  practising  physician  from  selling  such  liquors  for 
medicine,  not  to  exceed  half  a  pint  at  one  time. 

§  7.  That  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  secretary  to  pub- 
lish this  act  in  the  first  newspaper  printed  in  Oregon. 


CERTIFICATE 

I,  John  E.  Long,  Secretary  of  Oregon,  do  hereby 
certify,  that  the  foregoing  act  on  ardent  spirits,  is  truly 
and  correctly  revised  by  me.  J.  E.  LONG,  Secretary. 


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The  editing  and  annotation  are  elaborate  and  exhaustive;  an  Index  and  a  com- 
plete Bibliography  are  added,  making  this  the 

BEST  EDITION  OF  PIGAFETTA 
IN  ANY  LANGUAGE 

THE  NATION  toji  it  li 

"A  work  of  admirable  scholarship  which  should  prove  of  interest  both  to  professional  students  of  history 
and  ethnology  and  to  the  curious  reader  of  travelers'  tales  .  .  .  The  tone  of  the  translation  ii  of  a 
simplicity  that,  without  imitating,  suggests  the  naivete  of  Hakluyt'a  men." 

Limited  edition  of  350  copies  only.     Two  volumes,  large  8vo> 
cloth,  uncut,  gilt  tops.     Price  $7.50  net. 


" : An  authority  of  the  highest  importance.  " — WINSOR. 

Pittman^s  Prefent  State  of  the  European 
Settlements  on  the  Miffifippi 

With  folding  Plans  and  Draughts 
Edited  <u>ith  Introduction,  Notes  and  Index,  by 

FRANK  HEYWOOD   HODDER 

Professor  of  American  History,  University  of  Kansas 

THIS  exceedingly  rare  work,  issued  in  1770,  is  so  much  in  demand  by  students 
and  collectors  of  Americana  that  even  imperfect  copies  of  the  original  are  now 
almost  impossible  to  obtain  at  any  price.     It  contains  much  valuable  original  material 
for  the  study  of  the  French  and  Spanish  Settlements  of  old  Louisiana,  West  Florida, 
and  the  Illinois  country,  after  the  Peace  of  1763. 

"Giving  in  a  compact  form,   much  useful  and  reliable  information  (nowhere  else  to  be  fonnd) 

concerning  the  Mississippi  Valley  and  its  people  at  that  transition  period." — WALLACE. 

Dr.  WILLIAM  F.  POOLE  in  Winsor's  Narrativt  and  Critical  History  tf  Amirlt a  says:      "it  if 

the  earliest  English  account  of  those  settlements,  and.  as  an  authority  in  early  western  history,  is 

of  the  highest  importance." 

"An  authoritative  and  extremely  rare  source." — AMERICAN  HISTORICAL  REVIEW. 

Professor  H  odder  has  made  a  special  study  of  American  historical  geography,  and 
his  notes  embody  the  results  of  the  latest  researches  in  this  field. 


500  copies,  each  numbered,  handsomely  printed  in  large  Caslon  type  on  Dickinsons 
deckle-edged  paper.     Large  8*uo,  cloth,  uncut,  gilt  top.     Price  $3.00  net. 

A  real  literary  and  historical  Jind. 

Personal    Narrative   of  Travels 

in  Virginia,  Maryland,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Indiana, 
Kentucky;  and  of  a  Residence  in  the  Illinois  'Territory 

(1817-1818)  by 
ELIAS  PYM  FORDHAM 

With  facsimiles  of  the  author's  sketches  and  plans 
Edited  with  Notes,  Introduction,  Index,  etc.,  by 

FREDERIC  AUSTIN  OGG,  A.  M. 

Author  of  "The   Opening  of  the   Mississippi"1* 

THIS  hitherto  unpublished  MS.  was  written  in  1817-18  by  a  young  English- 
man emigrating  to  America.     Landing  at  Baltimore,  he  visited  Philadelphia, 
Pittsburg,  and  Cincinnati,  and  traveled  through  Indiana,   Ohio,  Kentucky, 
and  Illinois,  making  frank  and  pointed  comments  on  the  people  and  the  country. 

The  narrative  is  consequently  rich  in  personalia  of  early  settlers,  remarks  on 
contemporary  history  and  politics,  state  of  trade,  agriculture,  prices,  and  information 
on  local  history  not  obtainable  elsewhere;  it  will  therefore  make  accessible  to  histor- 
ical students  much  new  and  important  material,  besides  giving  the  general  reader  a 
book  of  vital  and  absorbing  interest. 

"An  artless  but  convincing  narrative  of  life  in  what  we  now  call  the  Middle  West,  but  was  then 
the  very  ragged  edge  of  civilization." — fht  Dial. 


Printed  direct  from  type  on  Dickinson''!  deckle-edged  paper. 
Large  8<vo,  cloth,  uncut.     Price  $3. 00  net. 


